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  1. Mosquito B.Mk.IV Löök (644188 for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard This set contains a combination of pre-printed resin and PE parts to detail up the cockpit of your Tamiya Mosquito quickly and efficiently. It’s a classic kit that is still just as crisply moulded as it was when first released, but aftermarket technology has proceeded apace in the years since it arrived on our shores. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), Löök and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The resin parts are protected by a crystal-clear plastic clamshell box with a sticky pad in the bottom to prevent the parts from rattling around within, while the PE is glued to the cardboard backing. There is one resin part to replace the kit instrument panel in front of the pilot, and two more replacing the transmitter and receiver radio boxes in the rear of the cockpit, all with glossy faced dials, switches and knobs already painted for you on black resin. Additionally, the PE sheet contains four-point belts for the pilot and navigator, and a pair of grab-handles for the R.1155 Radio Receiver. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Hi All, So yes I know you may or may not be thinking "he's got two carriers on the go what is he doing starting something else!". Well truth be told is because of a recent purchase I made which builds into a grand (well I think its grand) plan. More on the purchase below and you can see it in the photo's. Some time ago @ArnoldAmbrose made a suggestion on my 1/350 Dunkerque build that I could do one of each of the treaty battleships as a collection. Im not sure how serious it was but Jeff - the idea took hold well and truly! So I've been gathering kits and extras as a result, still much to get but enough now to make a start. The one frustration is no available injection kit of Nelson or Rodney in 1/350 but we can hope. I think when we think of naval arms races we often think of WW1 but it was well and truly underway before WW2 as well, just not in the numbers as twenty five years before. The plan is that this thread will be the first in the series that I'm hoping to do over the next few.....um .....years. So far i've got hold of the following in the stash; Admiral Graf Spee Strasbourg (having built Dunkerque0 Littorio Scharnhorst 1940 Richelieu Prince of Wales To add North Carolina and Alabama/Massachusetts (although i have some detail bits for them). In some ways Nelson and Rodney sit outside of this as they were outside of this build up towards the second world war, existing almost in isolation. Im pretty sure this lot will take quite some time as I juggle life and hobby, not to mention the other things i have to build as well! I wanted to make a start though. I picked up Strasbourg for a steal the other day (£40) and want to build her desperately as i love the French ships but the first in the line of treaty battleships was Admiral Graf Spee (AGS). Not that she was a battleship at all of course, the word pocket always added to any introduction of her and her class was later reclassified as heavy cruisers. I've been doing little bits and pieces on the kit over the past 12 months or so, pulling it out when I wanted to stick bits of plastic together/first try colourcoats paints by brush. This is the Academy version, and imho it's not great, its not terrible but its a real mixed bag. I chose it over the trumpeter as I thought it had better lines but its certainly not great in terms of engineering. It has some parts that are nicely detailed, others that are bland and it doesn't go together seamlessly shall we say! A few photo's of where I'm at and what I have to use: Whilst watching the very disappointing rugby yesterday I began drilling out scuttles, id previously started then changed my mind, filled and then changed my mind again hence the filler smear at the bow. Seams - seams everywhere! Luckily the detail sets will correct lots of the very soft detail. Im surprised really each time i think about this one. Academys Warspite is great, clean and crisp moulding - AGS by comparison is just a bit messy. Sets from Eduard, MK.1 and Master barrels for her; I still need a deck for her - the plastic one is alright but has a noticeable join so I'll try a wooden one, and her AA guns are woeful so need replacing! So that's where I'm at. My carriers will continue to be the main focus whilst I get them over the line but my hobby evenings are normally Tues, Thurs and a bit on the weekend and AGS will take one of those slots. Thanks for stopping in, S-boat
  3. I will be building this newer version of Eduard's FW 190 series of kits, their original series of FW kits were somewhat difficult to make and did not cover the early variants before the A-5. This kit of the A-2 will be, hopefully, just the first member of the Focke Wulf family I build in this STGB. I have several sets of markings I can use, unless I change my mind this is the aircraft I plan to build. All these Eduard FW kits contain four identical sprues, the clear canopy sprue plus three that contain all the other parts regardless of variant. Which means lots of spare parts. The fuselage, wings, p/e, masks and decals are different for each boxing, This kit has two wing options, the ones for version I plan to build with outboard canon are still on their sprue, I removed the spare ones to see if they fitted the Eduard D-9 kit, they do. This boxing also contained a pair of resin inner gear doors, I added a pair of resin early wheels and a set of Master brass gun barrels and pitot tube because they look so good. Everything is ready for the start date, roll on the 21st.
  4. Hi All, My latest completion is Eduard's relatively new-tool Spitfire Mk.IIa, completed as P7840 of 340 (Free French) Sqn, based at RAF Turnhouse, Ayr in December 1941. P7840 was the thirteenth of seventeen Spitfires donated by the Belfast Evening Telegraph Spitfire Fund, and was titled 'Mountains o' Mourne'. Here's a couple of photos of the aircraft and the squadron (kindly provided by @Troy Smith - images for discussion only and will be removed on request). The scheme attracted me as it unusually has the aircraft in DFS with the earlier Rotol spinner and type A.1 roundels. In addition my Father-in-Law hails from Dromara which sits at the foot of the aforementioned mountains. 340 Sqn was formed in November 1941 as part of Le Groupe de Chasse IV/2 (Fighter Group 4-2) "Île-de-France", flying defensive patrols from Turnhouse until moving further south in 1942, at which point they re-equipped with Mk.Vbs. The scheme was therefore only applied to the aircraft for a relatively short time, and my light weathering of the model reflects this. Here's the WIP if anybody is interested: The model was completed mostly OOB (as it was Profipack that adds a few extras!), although with the national markings (mostly) with home-cut stencils. Like most Eduard kits the detail is superb, but with some unnecessarily fiddly elements - as an example the radiator assembly consists of 12 pieces including 2 PE radiator grills (a bit much for 1:48?). Anyway, on with the photos: Finally, a couple of group shots to show the evolution of the beast (from R-L Airfix Mk.Ia, Eduard Mk.IIa, Tamiya Mk.Vc, Airfix FR Mk.XIVe - all have their own WIPs and RFIs if anyone is interested, and still plenty of gaps to fill in the collection, although these have all been completed in the last year or so): I've very much enjoyed learning more about this interim mark of the Spitfire, and bringing this unusual scheme to life. Thanks for all who have added kind words and encouragement along the way - it has been much appreciated! Thanks for looking, Roger
  5. With the summer heatwave apocalypse month of January coming to an end, I can actually start thinking about model building again. A bit late to this party, but my entry: Only AM will be some PE belts. Sprues still bagged. Not going to lie, the fuselage size came as a surprise for some reason. Didn't expect it to be so chonky! The 2 marking options I'm undecided on. I am leaning more towards the French Indochina one. But still some time before decals to make up my mind. Updates to follow shortly!
  6. Buccaneer S.2C/D Wheels (648814 Airfix) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This drop-in replacement set comprises three wheels on separate casting blocks, each of which is attached at the bottom where you will also find a slight weighting to depict the pressure of the airframe above. The detail is stunning, as we’ve come to expect from Eduard, with circumferential tread on the contact surface, detail and raised maker’s mark plus statistics on the sidewalls, and intricate hub detail on the front and rear, which includes the brakes around the axle. The set also includes a sheet of kabuki-tape masks (not pictured) to allow you to cut the hub/tyre demarcation with minimal effort, adding a little extra masking to cover the rest of the tyre surface. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Beaufort Mk.I Tface Masks (EX909 for ICM) 1:48 Eduard ICM’s new Beaufort is a great kit, but it’s got a lot of glazing that might make some of our fellow modellers wince at the prospect of having to mask off the many clear parts, especially as is common with a lot of early WWII aircraft, it was quite a greenhouse, with frames everywhere the order of the day. Well, worry not because Eduard are riding to the rescue with this comprehensive set of masks. Unlike the usual Tface sets, this is supplied in an A5 flat-pack, on two sheets of yellow kabuki tape with extensive diagrams guiding you. These pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy and all the other glazing both inside and out, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get landing light masks, masks for the forward-facing gondola under the nose, and a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Having used a Tface set of masks for my recent Wildcat build, I’m a huge fan of the concept, as I believe it gives your model’s glazing extra realism and depth, so will be using these sets at every opportunity. They’re highly accurate too, and once you have installed masks on the exterior panes, locating the inner sections is much easier, as you don’t have any doubt as to where they should fit. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Stencil Decals for Ju.87 Stuka (D48106 for Hasegawa/Airfix/Italeri) 1:48 Eduard Decals Eduard’s stencil range has been growing steadily of late, providing sharp, detailed stencilling for numerous types, some of which are lacking from the originating manufacturer’s box. The latter can come in handy for your average modeller, as sometimes the kit doesn’t include a complete set of stencils for expediency or whatever reason. Some folks, myself included, think that the inclusion of a full suite of stencils adds extra realism to a model, although there is of course the time element and the extra carrier film edges to hide. Eduard have been busy of late and have released this comprehensive set we have to review. It arrives in a clear foil re-sealable envelope with a card stiffener, a cover page with instructions, plus the decals with wax paper protecting the delicate printed surface. This set arrives on one sheet, and is patterned for almost any 1:48 Stuka due to the generic nature and placement of the stencils. Over the course of four profiles from overhead, underneath, and the sides, plus a diagram of the prop from the front, the locations of all the stencils are shown clearly on greyscale line drawings that use coloured arrows and numbers to differentiate from the background. Link to PDF of instructions. The decals are printed in-house by Eduard and have good register, sharpness and colour density, with a glossy carrier film printed close to the edges of the printed areas. Don’t forget that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. So here is (potentially) the start of part one of a dual/joint/two at a time build. Jury is still out in my head if to try two at a time having only completed two builds in 1/350 in the past 3 years especially as I still have a lot to learn and want them to turn out well. Also whether to do a joint thread or separate ones? As a kid I built 1/600 battleships, if it didn’t have big guns I wasn’t interested. A few years back I dabbled in 1/400 and built battleships, (you may see a pattern), now that I’m rather hooked on the hobby again I’ve started by building you’ve guessed it – battleships, specifically Zvezda’s Dreadnought and Hobbyboss’s Dunkerque (95% complete). As I looked at my stash of 12 and counting with a couple of those started I realised bar a modern Russian destroyer I needed to change it up. I settled on Aircraft Carriers, specifically 3, the bank said I could have 2 - fair enough I said. I wanted something unusual looking and Graf Zeppelin is certainly that. I’d actually discounted her as the aftermarket options aren’t great, Mk.1 do a set three times the cost of the kit which I personally think is too much. Eduard do a set in 4 prts, 2 prts of which are now discontinued. I contacted them about this and another set for Roma they have done similar with and they very bluntly said they wouldn’t bring it back into production even if demand went up which seems odd but that’s up to them. So I have coming on monday trumpeters kit of Graf Zeppelin in 1/350 with half of the eduard sets available, I did track down all four parts but when I compared the kit parts with those offered by eduard I found multiple areas when eduard merely replaced what was already included in the kit with little or no marked difference. I’ve also an extra set of six ME 109’s and Stukas. I plan to do my best with it, maybe scratch build a few bits, it won’t be jaw dropping in terms of PE but I think there is enough to lift the base model up a level or two. Part of the thing with Graf Zeppelin is of course she was never finished (about 95%) and in the process of not being finished she was changed several times. A brief history can be found on many a website, likely including this one on other builds but essentially, she had an Atlantic bow added post launch, was put on hold a couple times, had bulges added as well as changes to her super structure, AA armament, Aircraft complement and make up etc. You get the idea, the brilliant thing is it means you can’t really go wrong and where the line is drawn is any ones guess. As you’ll see from the following photos, Insert obligatory pictures (all from scale mates and Wikipedia) I plan to make minor changes to the super structure and funnel cap as I think trumpeter got it very very very wrong. I’ve no idea on paint schemes she’d likely have adopted, the Germans didn’t seem to do much up to early 42 which is potentially when she could have entered service had she not be placed on hold repeatedly. There is this picture on Scalemates that are supposedly GZ but to me I'm not convinced, the step/angle in the bow is gone, the tip of the bow is different as is the rake, as are the missing casemates (which is possible) but the bulge comes a lot further forward and the superstructure is stepped out to one side which would be massive work to undertake during the brief times she was actually worked on post 1940, I wondered if these are perhaps pictures of Weser but I don't think she got that far in construction? Now as for the second ship I may concurrently build – I’ll say nothing partially not to jinx it, Im told it'll be here in short order but time will tell. I'll be initially working to complete to a point of airbushing as the bank balance has taken a hit and so I can’t invest in an Airbrush right now. So any areas hairy stickable I’ll look to do and other areas be left ready for airbrushing later in the build. I'm not sure how easy to do as sub assemblies carriers are - but I'll guess I will fid out. Dunkerque has taken 10 months and isn’t huge but is nearly there so I doubt this will be a quick build initially but if you’d like to follow on and have made it through my inane ramblings I’d be glad of any input and suggestions as to: - paint schemes - paint sequencing given my Airbrish plan/delay - and modifications that may make her stand out. Photo's of the kit and PE to follow when they arrive, Thanks for bearing with me Sam
  10. Here is my recently completed build of Eduards new tooled F4F-3 Wildcat. The kit itself went together a dream and the only filler required was to clean the seem up along the spine of the aircraft. I painted the aircraft in AK RC and weathered with a mixture of oils and enamel products from Mig and AK. Please let me know your comments and feedback.
  11. So, my dad started the last Hasegawa 109 in our stash. Gonna do a Regensburg built machine using decals from the Eduard kit. DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr Eduard PE seatbelts used, battery cover from Eduard DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  12. Bf.109E-3 ProfiPACK (7032) 1:72 Eduard With almost 34,000 examples manufactured over a 10-year period, the Messerschmitt Bf.109 is one of the most widely produced aircraft in history and it saw active service in every theatre in which German armed forces were engaged. Initially designed in the mid-1930s, the Bf.109 shared a similar general arrangement with the Spitfire, employing monocoque construction and a V12 engine, albeit an inverted V with fuel injection rather than the carburettor used in the Spit. Initially designed as a lightweight interceptor, like many German types during WWII, the Bf.109 evolved beyond its original brief into a bomber escort, fighter bomber, night fighter, ground-attack and reconnaissance platform. The E variant, or Emil as it was more affectionately known was the first major revision of the original design, including an uprated engine and the attendant strengthening of the airframe that was required. It first saw service in the Legion Condor fighting in the Spanish civil war on the side of Nationalist forces of Military Dictator Franco, and then in the Battle of Britain where it came up against its nemeses the Supermarine Spitfire and Hawker Hurricane during the critical fight for the survival of the RAF and Britain, which was key to halting Operation Seelöwe, the invasion of Britain by the Nazis. Like the Spitfire it fought against, it was improved incrementally through different marks, the Emil was similarly tweaked to keep pace, with later variants having additional long-range tankage, plus structural improvements and a simpler squared-off canopy with clear frontal armour, but apart from various field modifications and a few low-volume sub-variants, it had reached the end of its tenure, and was phased out in favour of the Friedrich and later the Gustav. The Kit This is a reboxing of a recent kit in collaboration with Special Hobby in your favourite wee scale. It arrives in a modest top-opening box that has the ProfiPACK themed gold banner, and inside are two sprues of grey styrene, a fret of pre-painted nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of pre-cut kabuki-style masking tape, two decal sheets and the instruction booklet printed in colour on glossy paper, and with profiles for the decal options on the rear pages. Detail is excellent, especially for the scale, and includes a lot of engraved panel lines and rivets in differing thickness and depths, as well as all the other recessed and raised details, plus engine and gun bays that you can expose as we’ve come to expect from Eduard and Special Hobby. Construction begins with nipping the ends off two raised lines on the cockpit front bulkhead, which is then glued to the floor along with a choice of styrene or PE rudder pedals, the latter shown being folded to assist you with the process. The sloped rear bulkhead is attached to the rear, and a box is made up in front of the bulkhead from three parts with details moulded on the sides. The seat and PE belts are slotted into the rear of the cockpit, and the instrument panel is made from the styrene backing part, which receives two sections of laminated PE along with some toggles and levers to detail it. It is then glued to the nose gun bay floor, which is prepared with a few PE parts installed on the diagonal ammo feeders for the cannons once the bay is attached to the front of the cockpit on the boxed in area. You can use a pair of barrel stubs on a cross-bar for the closed bay, or the full guns with breeches if you intend to leave the bay open. The engine is built around two halves, adding the serial decal and removing a small block of styrene from the rear before you add the ancillaries, supercharger and bell housing with horseshoe oil tank at the front, plus the two mounts and their braces on the sides. Before closing the fuselage halves, the cockpit interior sides are detailed with PE and styrene extras, painting things up as you go along, then a pair of inserts are places in the cowling behind the exhausts, the exhausts are inserted through their openings, and the engine, cockpit and tail-wheel are all trapped between them. If you plan on closing up all the bays, the top and gun bay cowlings can be glued in place along with the filter for the supercharger. At the rear, the rudder, elevators and their support struts are all installed on tabs and pins into their respective holes to ensure they are oriented correctly. The lower wings are full span, and the gear bay wall cut-outs are skinned with PE details, as are the surfaces of the radiators and the chin intake, which also gets skinned on each side of the trough that fits inside the fairing. The upper wings are brought in and glued over the lowers, and the three-section flying surfaces are installed on each trailing edge, with radiator fairings that have optional PE cooling vents glued over the cores. The fuselage and wings are mated together, adding the leading-edge slats, which should be deployed under their own weight when parked, and a gun barrel projecting from each wing. The canopy can be posed open or closed, consisting of a fixed windscreen that has PE detailing added, and rear section that accepts the antenna, then the canopy opener is prepared by inserting the head armour and a small PE lever inside, and deciding whether to glue it closed or open to the starboard side, held in place by a retaining strap made of PE. A scrap diagram shows how it should look from the front. The prop blades are moulded as one, and are sandwiched between the spinner and back-plate and inserted on the axle at the front of the fuselage, then all that is left to create are the main gear legs. Each leg is a single strut, and you should first remove the strap running down most of its length, replacing it with a PE brake hose, adding the captive bay door, and of course the wheel onto the short cross-axle. Another scrap diagram shows the correct orientation of the assemblies once complete. Fitting a pair of horn balances on the ailerons, and an L-shaped pitot probe under the port wing completes the plastic wrangling. Markings There are a generous six decal options on the sheet, with a variety of early war schemes to choose from. From the box you can build one of the following: W.Nr.1079, Ofw. Erich Rudorffer, 2./JG2, Baumont-le-Roger, France, September 1940 Oblt. August-Wilhelm Schumann, 5./JG52, Mannheim-Sandofen, Germany, November-December 1939 W.Nr.1380, Obstlt. Carl-Alfred Schumacher, CO of JG1, Jever, Germany, early 1940 Obstlt. Max Ibel, CO of JG27, Guines, France, September-October 1940 W.Nr.1271, Oblt. Helmut Heinz, CO of 4./JG77, Kristiandsand-Kjevik, Norway, September 1940 W.Nr.5058, Fw. Arthur Haase, 6./JG51, Marquise-West, France, August 1940 The decals are printed by Eduard and are in good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The stencils are on a separate sheet, and are marked on a page of the booklet, separate from the rest of the markings to avoid confusion trying to read overly busy diagrams. Don’t forget that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view. Conclusion This is a highly detailed, comprehensive model of the early WWII variant of the Bf.109, complete with a good number of interesting schemes to choose from. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  13. MG34 Machine Gun w/Ammunition Belt (635020) 1:35 Eduard Brassin PRINT The MG34 was the primary machine gun used by the German forces during the majority of WWII, only replaced by the more advanced MG42 that was engineered to be cheaper and easier to manufacture than its predecessor. It was designed by Rheinmetall and produced in the Spandau Arsenal, which gave rise to one of its nicknames, and was chambered for 7.92mm rounds that were fired from an open bolt, with a cyclical rate that started around 800-900 rounds per minute, but was changed to a selectable 600-1,000rpm in later variants, the lower rate principally provided to conserve ammunition and reduce the heat build-up in the barrel that could lead to warping. The rounds weren’t prone to cooking off in a hot weapon however, as they weren’t fed into the chamber until the trigger was depressed again, but as a crew only carried around 1,800 rounds it was sensible to fire in short controlled bursts to maintain supplies. Changing out a hot barrel was a two-man affair, and was one of the tasks that was simplified in the MG42, which included an oven-mitt-like glove to protect the operator’s hands. Ammunition could be fed to the breech in different manners, starting with a 50-round modular length of reusable metal link that could be joined together to create longer lengths. A small drum mag clipped to the side of the breech contained 50 rounds that could be modified to take 75, or a cloth bag filled with rounds on link zig-zagged into the space could be used instead. The infantry version of the weapon was usually mounted on a bipod attached to the front of the weapon, while the vehicle or static pivot lug was mounted centrally at the base of the barrel and clipped into the pintle-mount socket in its intended position. Although this set arrives in a flat package, the directly 3D printed parts are safe inside a clear plastic clamshell box inside the package, which also has a sticky pad inside to prevent the parts from rattling about. The parts are printed resin, attached to the base via thin tendril-like fingers that are easy to cut off and sand the little upstands away, leaving them ready for action. This set includes a single highly-detailed MG34 that is protected between two risers, and a print-base of accessories that include a C-mag, a cloth bag and a length of unused link that is protected at each end by a C-shaped riser. Construction is simple once the parts are liberated from their print-bases, and consists of deciding which ammunition source you intend to use with your model. The instructions show the paint codes for each part of the model using Gunze codes, most of which will be metallic shades apart from the wooden butt-stock. Conclusion The crisp detail of this set will improve the look of any model you care to place it in, and it’s a simple upgrade into the bargain. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. P-38J Cockpit (648812 for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard Brassin PRINT Tamiya’s new range of P-38s has been augmented by the new -J, which is a great kit, but you can always improve on injection-moulded perfection with resin, especially the new 3D printed sets that Eduard are now producing. Having used one of their cockpits in an F4F-3 I built recently, they are at the pinnacle of aftermarket technology, offering superb detail with a relatively low part count. As is now usual with Eduard's more complex resin sets, they arrive in a deep Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding, augmented by a pair of foam sheets top and bottom. Inside the box are three large bags containing twenty-two printed resin parts, a sheet of pre-printed, nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE), a decal sheet, a slip of over-printed clear acetate, and the instruction booklet, which consists of three sheets of A4 printed on both sides and folded into an A5 booklet. There is a small amount of preparation to be done before you can start building, cutting off two rounded nubs from the rudder pedals if you are using the gun bay set in the nose (648790), and a section of the inside of the lower fuselage that would otherwise baulk the cockpit floor. Two more rods are removed from the rear of the cockpit opening in the upper fuselage later on too, so it’s as well to get it all done at outset. The parts are printed resin, attached to the base via thin tendril-like fingers that are easy to cut off and sand the little upstands away, leaving them ready for action. The build phase begins with the pilot’s seat, which is fitted to the head armour on a moulded-in frame that has another piece of equipment behind it. The PE seatbelts are all applied over the painted seat, including additional comfort pads beneath the buckles. The seat and its bulkhead are lowered into the floor along with a lever, and there are some more decals in addition to the detail painting to be done. The switch panel in front of the main panel is glued to a tab on the top of the rudder pedals, with decals applied to both visible faces, then it is inserted into the cockpit to be joined by the L-shaped control column and a choice of two instruments that fit into a slot in the top of the switch panel. The steering yoke slips into a hole in the end of the column, and a resin spacer is socketed in the front of the cockpit, leaving it out if you plan on using the gun pack (648790). The cockpit sidewall details are printed on a thin sidewall, with a choice of parts for the starboard side, and a PE adjustment wheel on the port, plus lots of detail painting and some decals again. The main instrument panel is a single printed part with a decal applied over the top before it too is inserted into the cockpit, which is inverted and glued to the upper fuselage half after cutting the afore mentioned rods from the rear. There is a choice of two styles of gun sight to consider for application into the windscreen after painting and adding the curved acetate glazing that is pre-printed on the sheet. A triple-layered PE roll-over hoop is made up with a pair of handles added for good measure, ending up glued into position at the open edge of the windscreen. There is a choice of two styles of radio rack at the rear of the cockpit, each of which is a single print that is painted up and has stencil decals applied to the sides, adding a roll-over bar over the top, and the more detailed option also has an equipment box fitted near the front, and some 0.35mm wire from your own stock, with the lengths called out to assist you. The decals are called out in scrap diagrams, and the more complex option also has more stencils applied once painted. The internal structure with the spar moulded into it needs the stiffening webs removed, and your choice of radio racks is dropped into the space behind the pilot. Conclusion There’s not much you can say about Eduard’s growing range of cockpit sets other than sublime, and get some. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. Since my return to the hobby about 3 years ago, I have only been making 1/35 AFV’s. However, having recently taken part in the Canadian GB (my effort here) and looking at the many aircraft builds it got me interested in trying one myself. I did use to make aircraft as a nipper, but as the title says it was over 40 years ago. Hopefully my AFV modelling experience will give me some help, but I appreciate this will be a learning curve for me. Sure, I will have a few questions along the way, so any help will be appreciated. I posted a topic a couple of months ago asking for model recommendations and the Eduard Spitfire was mentioned a few times, so I have gone with that. I wanted an easy-ish paint job, so I have ended up with the MK.IX which I am going to do in the Malta scheme. I also decided to get the weekend addition to avoid the PE on my first build. George
  16. Eduard leaflet for May: http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2016-05.pdf change digit in link for older issues
  17. Built from the 1/48 Eduard "Spitfire Story: Southern Star" Dual Combo boxing. Spitfire Mk.Vb trop ER821 of 92 San in Tunisia 1943. This kit was superb and was just what I needed - something easy to build after many a struggle recently. Built pretty much as per the instructions, I cannot remember any articular problems, apart from maybe a slightly dodgy fit of the huge tropical filter - but nothing too serious. I chose this set of markings from the box since I have a background Neville Duke and/or 92 San theme going. Colours started out as Mr Hobby H71/72 for the Dark Earth/Mid stone but they have been modified a fair bit by oil washes and filters. The underside was Humbrol 157 based on research found on this very site. This was the first time I have tried the "new" Eduard decals with the removable film. I have to say I loved them as it enabled the markings to be chipped and weathered a little. I found them fairly easy to work with but did have to mask and spray a few repairs here and there. As to the colours for the squadron codes - well there are a few reasons to doubt the blue colour but there are also reasons to believe it could be right too so I just went with it. All in all I am pleased with the outcome and recommend this excellent kit! Cheers Malcolm
  18. Greetings all from the shed. Built this one last year but didn’t get round to posting it so here it is. The Eduard kit is superb plus I managed to get the majority of the etch in place which is always a bonus! The decals are from Blue Rider. Its finished using Xtracolor gloss paints, Flory wash and Tamiya weathering powders. The whole build was a pleasure from start to finish. I will definitely make another and find another out of the ordinary scheme to do it in. Without further ado a few photos. Thanks for looking Pete
  19. Tornado IDS Upgrade Sets (for Eduard/Revell) 1:48 Eduard The new Revell kit of this much missed Cold War warrior is the new standard for 1:48, and is a great kit. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. 3D Printed SPACE set (3DL48089) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The PE sheet contains two full sets of crew belts, but first you’ll need to remove the moulded-in belts from the kit seats, however the work is well worth it for the improvement in detail. The two instrument panels and side consoles are also stripped of their moulded-in detail and are covered over by new 3D decals, the pilot’s panel being the more complex of the two, comprising four sections and a PE lever. The side consoles are replaced too, and a PE throttle quadrant with levers is laid over a blank portion of the pilot’s port console. The additional boxes on the rear-seater’s coaming are skinned with new 3D decals, and the pilot’s coaming has two thin instrument faces added into a pair of recesses, one on either side. Tface Masks (EX905) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy both inside and out, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels and formation lights, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Hello, Here's another project of mine. 3 american aircrafts including 1 and a half under british management. Both are early Mustangs with différents armament and of course different wing. 1 MTO, 1 ETO and the last from CBI There's an Accurate min and 2 ICM, serioulsly they're almost identical. The first to be finished, I guess will be the MTO one a P-51A from an US Sqdn on loan to an brit squadron. The colours will be ... Let's say, unusual. One of my favourite game , you both should know the kind of remark "are you sure about the colours ???" I modify the camera rack for 2 of thede Mustang, because, you receive this... And you must have that... So, I cut the brackets, throw away the original support, add an armour plate ( from her cousins ) slightly modified. Add wiring to the camera, That seem promising, there's also lots of sanding but the ICM are worst. I keep on going, modifying the wings according to the 3 different type of early mustang is funny. Thank for watching. Corsaircorp
  21. I'm going to close my model year of 2022 with this Bf110 from Eduard. Hope you all have a happy new year. See you in 2023. Nanond
  22. Bristol Beaufort Mk.I Upgrade Sets (for ICM) 1:48 Eduard ICM made a lot of Britmodellers very happy when they announced their Beaufort kit, and now that we have the kit to pore over, it’s been worth the wait. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner, offering detail that injection-moulded styrene can’t provide. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Detail Set (491318) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. The first item to be replaced is the pilot’s seat, which is a complex assembly made from a large number of parts, with a third diagram showing the completed assembly. There are two circular meshes for the intakes inserted in the wing leading edges, then the attention turns toward the cockpit again. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, highly detailed sidewalls that are covered with instruments and equipment boxes, and side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and a new seat for the bomb aimer. The turret’s interior is cut up, keeping some portions and discarding others to replace them with new more detailed PE parts. The twin Lewis guns are detailed with new tops and handles to their plate magazines, and adding extra details that include an armour panel, while the side-mount Lewis gun gets a magazine upgrade plus ring-and-bead sights. The engines are upgraded with three V-shaped spacers that hold the circular part in position, which also receives a central boss. The last job is to glue a sight inside the windscreen in front of the pilot. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48094) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin, and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The PE sheet contains three sets of lap belts that are applied to the seats and turret, plus a four-point set for the pilot, making an oval hole in the back of the kit seat to pass the Y-shaped end of the shoulder harnesses through. The 3D decals are applied to the instrument panel and copious instruments and equipment boxes on the sidewalls, adding a few PE levers to the panel, and PE backing plates for many of the boxes on the sidewalls. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1319) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The pilot has a set of four-point belts that require an oval hole to be made in the back of the kit seat to accommodate the end of the Y-shaped section behind the shoulder harness, with three sets of lap belts in the cockpit and the turret. Bomb Bay (481094) This comprehensive bare brass set contains two sheets, one larger, the other smaller. You will need to remove the raised details inside the kit bomb bay before you install the new detail skins in the centre section, adding a rear bulkhead and an additional rectangular cover if you intend to fill the bay with bombs rather than a torpedo. Another bulkhead is applied to the front of the main bay after adding several detail parts, some of which require folding. The curved front section of the bay is covered with another skin that you will need to roll to fit, and has a W-shaped brace added partway along. The rear section of the bay has two strips fitted to the outer edges, then the centre-section is filled with four folded bomb shackles and another cover to the forward section opening if you are mounting bombs. If you are installing the torpedo, a complex carrier is folded up and glued in the centre of the main bay, adding a pair of small wheels on short lengths of wire from your own stock on the sides. The bomb bay doors are reduced in size 1mm each end and along the top edge, then slimmed down at the top in preparation for the new skin that is laminated, folded and applied to the outer surface of the kit parts to improve detail and replace the thicker kit inner bay doors. Review sample courtesy of
  23. I'm pleased to present my most recent build, Eduard's 1/48 Mustang Mk. IV in a natural metal scheme depicting KH716 as flown by Squadron Leader Murray P. Nash of No. 3 Squadron, Royal Australian Air Force, in Fano, Italy, January, 1945. The model is presented on a pre-made base by Zoukei-Mura, which remains the best $20 I ever spent in this hobby. The build overall was smooth, with only a couple difficult areas, all of my own doing. The Mk. IV version requires a few features to be removed from the base P-51 fuselage, and I made a right hash of excising an extraneous hatch under the air scoop, resulting in several rounds of filling (with putty and super glue) and some haphazard re-scribing. Please respect the rivets that were lost forever in the process and avoid too a close examination of the area. The propeller, spinner, and various flappy bits (elevators, ailerons, etc.) can all be added at the end of the build with no issues, making the painting easier. I used some, but not all, of the included PE parts, and after taking pictures I realized that the starboard gear bay landing light is still stuck to a piece of blue-tac atop a toothpick in my spray booth. The finish is a combination of Mr. Color C-8 Silver for the puttied/painted wings and fabric covered elevators and Mr. Color Super Metallic SM-201 Super Fine Silver 2 for the natural metal. Mr. Color lacquers are my go-to paints, so I opted this time for their metallics as opposed to the Alclad I used for my prior NMF build. I started with a primer base of Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Grey, and then taped off a few fuselage panels to get some tonal variation on the cheap before covering the aircraft overall with Mr. Color GX-2 Ueno Black, a very durable and glossy base coat for the metallics to come. Since I view every new build as an opportunity to buy new stuff, I picked up Mr. Rapid Thinner, which Gunze recommends for their metallics. The C-8 Silver sprayed neat and true, and I thought the SM-201 Super Fine Silver did the same . . . until I masked over it to pick out the exhaust panels with dark iron paint. Sheets of the Super Fine Silver came off with the tape, down to the gloss black undercoat, as frightening display of paint lifting as you're likely to see. I sanded down the Super Fine Silver, which required distressingly little encouragement, and then resprayed and prayed, using my standard Mr. Levelling Thinner instead of the rapid thinner. I then sprayed a gloss coat -- Alclad Aqua Gloss -- on top as soon as it dried to protect it, which pretty much did the trick. A few areas still chipped on me with further handling, but they've been hidden as artfully as possible in the pictures. I'm not sure if the lifting came from not completely degreasing the black gloss undercoat after handling (I know, I know!), the rapid thinner, the paint/thinner ratio, the ambient temperature (on the cold side), or my just failing to properly propitiate the gremlins who live in my airbrush. I'm assuming it's a combination of all of those factors. The final colors look metal enough, but I think I might go back to Alclad for my NMF needs in the future. This build saw my first experience with Eduard's "removable film" decals. They were hit and miss for me. I wound up with some tearing/chipping on a few of the decals, including the "CV" code on the port fuselage and the red/blue flash on both sides of the stabilizer. The tears at least look sort of like organic paint chipping/wear. I'm an inveterate decal wiggler, trying to get them just right, and I think I didn't get the problem decals bedded down sufficiently. When they worked, though, they worked a treat. For the most part, I found that a nice dollop of MicroSol left overnight did the trick, and I just worried around the edges of the film with a toothpick until I peeled up enough to grab the film with tweezers. But it was nerve-racking. Can't argue with the results, though -- the decals with the removed film look sharp and almost painted on, both the main decals and the stencils, the latter of which I applied perhaps 80%. I covered over the decals with a further coat of Aqua Gloss, as I was uncertain how the exposed decals would react to the white spirit and oil paints in the next step. I wanted a fairly dirty finish, to reflect the wear and hard living of a plane in-theater, so I doused it with a wash of thinned Payne's Grey and Black oils. I tried to leave some build-up in panel corners, and I think the overall effect helped give some dimension and staining to the natural metal finish. Pencils and pigments rounded out the weather process. On the whole, I'm pleased enough with the final result. It should look good on a shelf with the striking red spinner and sky blue rudder adorned with the Southern Cross. I certainly learned a few things about working with a natural metal finish, and while it's nowhere near my best build -- the faults being my own rather than with the kit -- I'm no longer apprehensive about NMF schemes. (Though I still think I'll reward myself with an overall grey USAF bird next just to recover . . .) Thank you for reading and for taking a look.
  24. After some time where I spend only limited time here, just adding some unqualified posts here and there on some fellow BM's builds (sorry guys), I thought I start something on my own again. So, please feel invited to pay me back and drop your load of happy nonsense here... I don't know, though if this will tick anyones boxes; I felt like entering some more familiar ground again and do something in my homeground of biplanes in quarterscale - and, by using plural in the title, you might have guessed it will be a double build. I messed it up the last time and failed on the Camel, so why not do it again and wreck twice at one. Anyway, it's something I have in my stash and planned for quite some time now, building two variants of the famous WWI fighter, the DV from the Berlin based Albatros Flugzugwerke and the Oeffag license build DIII from the second 253 series. Both models are based on Eduard kits, one the standard Profiback, which I think is still available, and the other from the "Viribus Unitis" boxing, which I think was a limited series. The DV will be Otto Kissenberths famous black Edelweiss 2263/17, and the DIII will be Fiala von Fernbruggs 253.24. These variants, as pictured in the - as usual quite good - Eduard instructions: I try to build the Dv a bot more weathered than usual, while on the Oeffag I will put my emphasis on textures; the wood from the fuselage, the linen on the wings, the metal cowling and fuselage applications. So, if you feel this might be your cup of tea, grab a wicker seat out in the airfield, don't be afraid of oil stains from the Daimler engines and have a Schnaps. An guadn, as the bavarians say!
  25. I don't fully understand myself, but this machine has always been on my list. A strange 109. I especially like the interesting role of the former German-Czech military technology in Israel. The model is fairly new, very nice and extremely detailed. Basically we get a modified G Messser with bump propeller and ugly nose. The parts were an exact fit during dry fitting. This is where I am with it so far:
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