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  1. Good evening everyone. The de Havilland Sea Vixen is an aircraft of singular appearance is it not? You notice it. The sweep and curve of its geometry. Formed not only from the requirements of naval aviation but (covertly, one suspects) from those1950s fantasies about how fast and silver a technological future would look. It was the kind of aircraft Captain Scarlet would have trained on and was capable, if required, of protecting the Earth from UFO invasion. At least I think so. I'm going to build two of them partly for the aforementioned reasons, and partly as a way of celebrating the friendship and generosity to be found on this forum. (More on that in a bit.) For now though, posting this in full view means there's no bottling out. Choice of Subject Having wanted to build one these for a long while, I'd been collecting various bits and pieces and images without (as often happens) a definite subject in mind. Always liking a build to be rooted in a meaningful narrative of some kind, I was leafing through some of the entries in the Dorset Crashes site and noted that a FAW.1 (XN708, from 890 Sqn) had gone down in Lyme Bay on the night of 25th November, 1964, killing both crew: Lt Michael J.W. Durrant RN. & Lt Basil A.Last RN. We can sometimes be guilty of building things only to celebrate the notable or the heroic in conflict; in this case it seemed fitting to build something to note those who end uncelebrated in the footnotes of history as peacetime or training casualties. This is the only clearly identifiable shot I've found so far of XN708/R244, original date of photo unknown: Image credit: Imgaylard Brian Patterson has an excellent colour gallery of a sister aircraft here though that will doubtless prove highly useful as references. For the second choice, I'm (as frequently the case in matters of naval aviation) indebted to @Ex-FAAWAFU for drawing to my attention the powerful, nay provocative, black & white diagonal scheme of XJ481 when undertaking Martel trials: Image credit: Roger Winser This has not only the challenge of building a replacement nose to incorporate that camera housing and a Martel to scratch up (I knows there's a 1/72 resin one out there but think the fins are too thick) but a snazzy 'dazzle paint' work to do also, for which @Terry1954 has also kindly supplied some colour references. The Kits I'm going to modify both the venerable 1/72 Frog offering and use the High Planes kit, which has a FAW.1 option. I'd mentioned above that this build was in part a celebration of the generosity no be found on this forum. Let me start by detailing such matters here: The High Planes kit was sent to me some time ago by @Procopius. How gracious is that? Thank-you Edward for this kindness. As a young shaver on the forum, not long after joining I'd mused aloud in a thread about the absence of FAW.1s in 1/72 and been overwhelmed by a (characteristically) generous influx of references and diagrams from both @71chally and @canberra kid regarding the feasibility of modifying the Frog kit. The fruits of these discussions are posted here and I must reread them myself prior to commencing any work in this direction! If you've had a look at Brian Patterson's colour shots above you'll notice prominent in one of them is a Palouste starter. I never used to know about these until seeing @perdu resinate superb examples in his Buccaneer build. Not only that but again without saying anything he'd tucked some of his output away in a package he sent and so I'll be proud to use one of his Paloustes in this project. Thanks Bill! The High Planes kit first: As it says on the box: In fairness I see 'adjustment of parts required' on every kit I buy.... I haven't looked closely-enough at the canopy yet to make any decisions regarding suitablility: Some replacement Aries wheels (I'd forgotten I'd bought them) to replace the originals: The Frog File: Check out the crazy patterning all over the plastic. Weird.... That nose: Subject of much discussion with John and James on the original thread, as might be imagined.... How to '1 a '2: Picked this up dirt cheap of 5thletter bay many moons ago. Think that resin is the 'Final Touch' set (?) but no idea about the white metal provenance. Wheels and legs don't impress: The Airwaves stuff was in the Frog box when I bought it, honest guv: Vaguely possible one or two of those bits may prove of use but certainly not the grotty wingfold. Here's what's really going to offset a diorama - a beautifully perduced Palouste: The markings on both aircraft will be painted rather than decals, but thankfully I've the Model Alliance decal set for the Ark's air wing that I can snaffle the moonlit witches from for the 890 Sqn Vixen: I'm aware of multiple issues with correcting the Frog to a FAW.1, but the High Planes I believe is to be generally trusted in shape terms? (Please correct me if wrong on the latter point). There will of course need to be a wingfold involved somewhere but this has given me a pause for thought: the colour scheme of the Martel-tester is so good that the wings on that one will have to be fully extended to display this handsome plumage, so XN708 will be the one to get the folding treatment, though which kit do do which with (if you see what I mean)? The Frog is moulded with the break in the wings where the fold is so a natural candidate, yet one with such problems in its nose area that this really makes it a better candidate for (the unfolded) XJ481 viz. a totally new and angular schnozz. I'm sure that the High Planes kit can be 'persuaded' to fold so: High Planes = XN708/Palouste (wingfolded) Frog = XJ481/Martel (non-folded) Nearly forgot. XN708 will have the RR Avons visible. So I'll be building 1/72 Avons as well.... References As standard for me, along with contemporary photographs, will be working from original technical documentation, namely several thousand pages of these: I've all 4 volumes of the above, plus: - for the engine build. As the technical manuals are obviously for the FAW.2, help with that handful of specific differences such as canopy etc comes in the form of relevant sections from the FAW.1 manuals generously provided previously by John (@canberra kid). Who else? I'm hoping to have the current Anson build finished by the Autumn so if you've nothing planned for those long winter evenings you'd be very welcome to pull up a Palouste and keep me company here. Thanks for reading, as always. Tony
  2. Hi all, I'll be building this 1/200 scale, 3D printed kit of the Bombardier CRJ-1000 airliner. The -1000 series was the longest version of the CRJ (Canadair Regional Jet), family and was produced between 2010 and 2020. I bought this kit, via the Shapeways marketplace, about 7 or 8 years ago. At the time I couldn't find any aftermarket decals for the -1000, so ended up buying a couple of sheets for shorter versions (from the Canadian company, V1 Decals), in order to get the necessary number of windows. I'll be building a Croatia Airlines aircraft, using a Flightpath A319/320 sheet for their markings. Cheers
  3. Yak-9D Interior 3D Decal Set (QD48281 for Zvezda) 1:48 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention, they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels with decals if you're lucky, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even though they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a Ziploc bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue, and not using decal softener due to the possibility of it melting the resin. Application is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the brand-new Zvezda Yak-9D in 1:48, and includes all manner of goodies. The set comprises two sheets of decals, containing a superbly detailed instrument panel and side consoles, additional black box fronts, levers and a full set of seatbelts for the pilot’s convenience and safety. The coolest parts are the pair of fuel gauges that are fitted flush with the wing top surface. The kit has clear lenses, which are over-thick, so this set replaces them with an inverted printed dial under a spacer in white resin, then a clear lens with bezel to go over the top. There are two types of gauge dials, and those are the white circular parts on the sheet with L and R printed on them to show which wing they fit in. very clever! There’s even a flare pistol for attachment to the floor by the seat. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, even down to the infinitesimal switches and impressive crispness of the set. This cockpit really needs a crystal-clear or opened canopy to show off the details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Hello guys, I bought a second 3D Pulqui 2 with the intention of showing it in a presentation I'll be giving at uni this Friday. The colour scheme is from Calcas del Sur's decal sheet, showing a possible scheme had the Pulqui 2 entered service with the FAA instead of the F-86F-40s ex USAF. Bottom photo shows the Ta 183, where you can see just how similar both aircraft were. Both were designed by Kurt Tank, the 183 at Focke Wulf, and the Pulqui at Instituto Aerotècnico. Colours used were Revell Aqua 05 White, 87 Dark Earth, 40 Black Green and 79 Grey Blue. Though not as detailed as mainstream models (this plane is very basic, only landing gear, wheels, pilot and two fuselage halves), 3D printing is good when you can't find a model of an ususual subject in any scale. Hopefully a local resin manufacturer will tackle the Pulqui 2 in 48th some time. However, since the kit is relatively cheap, I'll be buying a third one and paint it as the fifth prototype. This one was painted white with a red horizontal stabilizer and red cheatlines.
  5. " Things have become a little rougher, ugly and now we need a law enforcement unit capable of meeting the enemy on his own ground, and carrying enough fire power to get the job done." " Ladies and gentlemen, with great pleasure, i introduce ROBOCOP 2" The Old Man Hi fellow modellers. A few months ago i decided to get the 3d print files for Robocain from Robocop 2. The problem was i never actually had the time to start the project. With the current situation that the world is in, I have more time at home and i can finally get started. I know this project is going to take along time and i hope that you enjoy seeing my progress. The model will be in a 1/6 scale, which will make him over 40cm high ( go big or go home, i guess ). The printer i will be using is my trusty Creality Ender 3. The only things i have done is print a better parts cooling fan and change the board to make it quieter I know their are some other people in the forum that are doing the same build and cannot wait to share our problems, and solutions to those problems with each other. So my first pics The majority of the first things to print were the actual support structure and framing for this guy. Most of this you won't see but between that and the M3 bolts, he's built to last and that's a good thing in my household. So once the frame for the upper body is complete, you can then start to get some of the panels on. This is then gives you an idea of how your frame is and where trimming and straightening is required. The one downside to 3d printing is, if you don't get your settings dialled in, you will be sanding and sanding to remove the print lines. I suffered with this until i realised i had set my printer settings up wrong, so please ignore those nasty lines So up to this point, the build has been small to medium prints that only took between 1/2 hr to 2 hrs a piece. The first big print was the 2 half's of his upper chest armour. With a combined print of about 12hrs this was the first big and visible piece to be printed ( not including the head part ) The chest is 3 different parts and when i fitted them together they just didn't look right. Looking at pics online, it showed that the 3 pieces are one big piece. So i decided to glue them together and fill in the gap, which was the reason i think it looked wrong Once the upper body was done, i decided to move to the minigun and ram arm Once this part was done, i couldn't resist connecting it to the upper body and see how it looks. Oh btw its starting to get heavy lol Hope you have enjoyed this post and will post up when the next bit is done Stay Safe
  6. F-104A/C Update Sets (For Kinetic) 1:48 Eduard Kinetic’s ever-widening range of Starfighters is well-detailed and selling well, with good reason. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail above and beyond the capabilities of injection moulding in their usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), 3D Printed SPACE and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. F-104A Interior (491266) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewalls and side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and the extensive instrument panel for the rear cabin are in full colour; the ejection seat stirrups are removed and replaced by new PE parts, with a stencil added to the back between seat and headbox. The cockpit sills are decorated with small parts, some painted, others bare; the large avionics box behind the pilot is augmented with detail skins after removing the raised sections, replacing those with new PE parts later on, and a detailed underside to the cover, surround and other details. The coaming is upgraded with small PE parts, new rudder pedals are placed in the foot well, and a tiny triangular web is inserted into the back of the cockpit area. The canopy receives latching rails along the sides, plus new in-scale rear-view mirrors, and a colour-printed card that is stuffed into the front left corner of the frame. Externally, equipment boxes are replaced in the back of the main gear bays, the legs are improved with additional parts, some of which requires lengths of 0.8mm rod to be added. The bay doors are also updated, as is the nose gear bay with copious wiring on one side. The main gear retraction struts are also detailed with stencils, wiring and tie-down lugs. F-104A SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48063) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The printed set incorporates the instrument panels, side consoles, other instruments, placards, and a complicated web of belts around the usual PE belts for the pilot plus pull-handles for the ejection mechanism. The PE fret contains the aforementioned belts; additional levers for the panel; rudder pedals; a skin for the throttle quadrant and nearby document slots; details around the cockpit sills; small parts for the coaming; latch rails for the canopy sides, and a new set of in-scale rear-view mirrors. F-104C Interior (491267) Two frets are included, one nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other bare brass, and both are very similar to the A set above. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, sidewalls and side consoles with added levers for the cockpit and the extensive instrument panel for the rear cabin are in full colour; the ejection seat stirrups are removed and replaced by new PE parts, with a stencil added to the back between seat and headbox. The cockpit sills are decorated with many small parts, some painted, others bare; the large avionics box behind the pilot is augmented with detail skins after removing the raised sections, replacing those with new PE parts later on, and a detailed underside to the cover, surround and other details. The coaming is upgraded with small PE parts, new rudder pedals are placed in the foot well, and a tiny triangular web is inserted into the back of the cockpit area. The canopy receives latching rails along the sides, plus new in-scale rear-view mirrors, and a printed card that is stuffed into the front left corner of the frame. Externally, equipment boxes are replaced in the back of the main gear bays, the legs are improved with additional parts, some of which requires some lengths of 0.8mm rod. The bay doors are also updated, as is the nose gear bay with copious wiring on one side. The main gear retraction struts are also detailed with stencils, wiring and tie-down lugs. F-104C SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48064) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The printed set incorporates the subtly different instrument panels, side consoles, other instruments, placards, and a complicated web of belts around the usual PE belts for the pilot plus pull-handles for the ejection mechanism. The PE fret contains the aforementioned belts; additional levers for the panel; rudder pedals; a skin for the throttle quadrant and nearby document slots; details around the cockpit sills; small parts for the coaming; latch rails for the canopy sides, and a new set of in-scale rear-view mirrors. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1270) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the standard set of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles that gets him out of there in case of an emergency, and the additional straps to the sides of the main belts. Masks (EX850) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX851) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of
  7. OV-10D+ Upgrade Sets (for ICM) 1:48 Eduard All praise ICM for providing us with a modern quarter scale OV-10 Bronco over the last few years, with so many variants that there can’t be all that many options that aren’t yet catered for – maybe a Luftwaffe one would be nice? I know at least one sale they’d make there. The current latest is the OV-10D+, which saw some of the most recent use by the US Marines after upgrading from earlier models. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48062) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The seats are upgraded first with PE seatbelts for both crew members plus other detail updates including rudder pedals and ejector handles, then the focus shifts to the extensive and highly visible instrument panels, side consoles and equipment boxes within the cockpit, which are incredibly well-detailed and are in 3D relief that is much more appealing than flat PE or moulded-in styrene. More equipment is added to the windscreen interior by way of a 3D printed panel, with traditional PE added to the inside of the four expansive side windows, which should be painted before installation as they will be seen through the glazing once complete. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1265) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles to the side of the pilot's knees that gets them out of there in case of an emergency. Masks (EX846) Supplied on two sheets of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curves in the roof glazing handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. Masks Tface (EX847) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. They will be especially effective when used in conjunction with the PE details added to the windows as mentioned in the above SPACE set. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Hello guys, I was able to finish the Pulqui 2 last weekend. Here it is with the mainstream Academy Ta 183. Both are in 1:48.
  9. SR-71 Blackbird Update Sets (For Revell) 1:48 Eduard Revell made a lot of people happy when they released their new tool of the sleek SR-71 Blackbird in 1:48 scale, consigning most of the old Testors kits to eBay or deep stash, mine included. It’s a big improvement in terms of constructional rigidity and detail, but there’s always room to improve on injection moulded plastic. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in their usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (491251) Two frets are included, both nickel-plated and pre-painted. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles with added levers for both of the cockpits in full colour with small areas of acetate sheet used in the process; floor and sidewall skins for them both; a big upgrade to the ejection seat rails on the back of the seats and in the rear of the cockpits, plus control details; side-pockets for the cockpits; plus canopy internal details and rear-view mirrors. Zoom! Set (FE1251) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main visible aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48059) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D printed sheet includes a full set of instrument panels and side consoles in glorious colour and with relief engineered in, while the PE sheet has a full set of four-point seatbelts and pull-handles for both seats; additional levers for the throttle quadrants; rudder pedal boots; additional equipment in the rear cockpit that is removed earlier; side-pockets; rear-view mirrors and a flip-up tray with a foil/styrene(?) surface that you should prepare from your own stocks. The gloss on the screens in the instrument panels is so realistic, which is one of the reasons I’m such a big fan of the range - the photos don't do them justice. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1252) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles between the pilot's knees that gets him out of there in case of an emergency. Masks (EX836) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the exterior of the canopy. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX837) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior an appropriate colour and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of
  10. A6M2 Zero Model 21 Folding Wingtips PRINT (648731) 1:48 Eduard In case it has escaped your notice, Eduard have released a brand-new tooling of the Mitsubishi Zero in 1:48, and it’s a complete peach of a kit. You can see our review here, and my (presently stalled) build here. We’ve reviews a bunch of update sets already here, some of which I've used on my build, but now we have another from their new PRINT range, which is directly 3D printed and highly detailed. As usual with Eduard's smaller sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The parts are further protected in a crystal-clear plastic box that should be capable of resisting all but the most punishing of impacts. The set includes a pair of new 3D printed wingtips with moulded-in internal ribbing visible from the break-point, plus another pair of 3D printed rib-ends for the inner-wing that have a large tab to hold them in position. You also have the choice of a simpler join that utilises the ribs from the supplied Photo-Etch (PE) sheet, which has a different cut-point, with both of them shown in scrap diagrams that have the sections to be removed marked in red so there's no confusion. You reuse the clear wingtip lights from the kit of course, and there is a painting guide for the interior parts to ensure you get things right. You can see very fine layer marks on the smooth sections of the wingtip skin, but in my experience those disappear after a layer or two of paint, with any stubborn marks responding to a light sanding by vanishing diligently. Most impressive. If this new range of PRINT sets keeps going in this manner, we should see a lot more of them, and they should sell like hot cakes. Now I'm hungry. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. So this is what happens when I get an idea in my head and get carried away. I had a look at an "in-box" review of Airfix's new tool Vampire and realised it was designed in such a way that would make a conversion really easy. I bought myself a kit and prepared my CAD mouse. Being fairly organised, I have a spreadsheet with all the kits I plan to build, needless to say, this was not on that list - but I've really enjoyed both the CAD, 3D printing and the kit itself. I decided I wanted something a bit different for the colour scheme, so I chose the Swiss markings (and I'm glad I did). It was brush painted with Hataka Medium Sea Grey on top and Ztracrylic PRU blue beneath, the Swiss cross markings were masked and the decals came from spares. Weathered using Mig Panel Line Wash. I've tried a couple new techniques; firstly, I bought an airbrush, so the satin varnish is airbrushed and, secondly, I am now taking photos using my airbrush spray booth and a big bit of blue-grey card - I'm very happy pleased with the overall result Thanks for looking - and these conversions are available to purchase from me! Ben
  12. Hi all. My model club is currently running an informal group build with the theme "My First Car". My first car was a 1974 Renault 12TL which I bought in 1978. Back then, second-hand foreign cars were much cheaper to buy than British ones . Here we are in action at a Rugby Motor Club 'trial' (by the end of the event, the front number plate was completely off). Having decided to build this as a model, I had to find a kit. This proved to be quite easy - a quick search on eBay brought up a gentleman in France who sells (and presumably makes), resin body shells. The shell has a few surface imperfections, but overall is actually quite nice. Better still, it doesn't represent a competition vehicle (as many resin shells do), and so the only surgery I will need to perform will be the removal of two unwanted fog lights. For the running gear and internals I'll be using bits from similar Airfix kits (mainly their Mk.1 Escort), which possibly may also help with the glazing. We shall see... Unfortunately, by this point of the GB year, I've got a backlog of builds and so I won't be able to start this one for at least 2 months. I'll see you later. Cheers
  13. Bf.109E-4 SPACE 3D Cockpit Set (3DL48049) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really increases the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D printed decals are on a small sheet, with the two sections of instrument panel covered with brand new printed panels with glossy dials and lots of detail. Each section has an additional layer for extra detail, and they also have some PE levers added later. The port cockpit side has a long rectangular ancillary panel applied over the original after sanding or scraping back of the original moulding, then the pilot’s seat is outfitted with a set of painted PE seatbelts with comfort pads and a nickel-plated oval pass-through grommet where the harness passes through. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. US Mk.17 Depth Charges (648691) 1:48 Eduard Brassin The AN-Mk.17 Mod.2 depth charge was used by the US Navy during WWII, carrying 325lbs of either TNT or Torpex in a cylindrical casing with welded-on dome head, and having a drum-shaped tail fin for stabilisation during flight from the launching aircraft. A small spinner armed the fuse on the side as the weapon fell, and the single suspension lug was a triangular bracket welded to the body. As is now usual with Eduard's smaller resin sets, they arrive in a shallow Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, and the instructions folded around acting as padding. This is one of Eduard’s new Castless Print sub-variant, and the resin parts are SLA printed directly from the CAD files. Inside the box are two units that have already been removed from their bases, with just a fraction of a millimetre of the support lattice still visible on the bottom of the fin ring, which will be the work of moments with a sanding stick to remove. The charges are ostensibly complete save for the spinner on the nose, which is made from two PE parts and a short length of 0.4mm rod from your own stocks. The blades on the spinner will need twisting slightly with a pair of tweezers, then a PE ring is added to the front and the spinner is slipped over the rod and is glued in place. The front of the instruction sheet has a colour diagram showing the painting of the depth charges with their usual Gunze colour call-outs, plus the location of the few stencils that are applied to the finished article from the small sheet that accompanies the set. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. Chipmunk T.10 Detail Upgrades (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard We 1:48 modellers have all been happy happy joy joy about the reasonably recent Airfix De Havilland Chipmunk in our favourite scale, and now have some the aftermarket to add to it. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE), Brassin resin and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48048) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The 3D decal sheet contains a pair of instrument panels for the pilots with a small number of additional shaped panels to be fitted around the cockpit, plus placards and the occasional dial. The PE sheet has the four-point seatbelts for both pilots, and a semi-recessed adjustment wheel on the port side of each seat. The final parts are some pull-handles for the starboard canopy openers, which are probably best painted then glued in place with some clear varnish. Chipmunk T.10 Upgrade Set (491225) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and auxiliary controls are the primary parts on the painted set, with a frame around each seat and adjustment wheel set into the frame; small details within the cockpit such as throttle box; a shroud for the port side of the engine; new dual-layer cowlings for the engine bay that should be curved to shape using the kit parts as a template to be propped open by some 0.6mm rod from your stores; strengthening straps around the fuselage at the rear of the wing root and along the tail fin fillet, plus a few appliqué panels. The final parts are some pull-handles for the starboard canopy openers, which are probably best painted then glued in place with some clear varnish, and a perforated brace that is slipped into the rear of the canopy that can be glued similarly. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1226) These belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The small fret contains the four-point belts for both pilots, requiring the removal of a little styrene where the belts pass through the sides of the seat. Masks (EX809) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape, with the blown canopy side panels handled by X-shaped cuts that you’ll need to fill in the gaps once it is burnished down. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Tface Masks (EX810) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy both inside and out, with curved handled as above. As previously, you also get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Tempest Mk.II Landing Flaps (648686 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Following the release of Eduard’s brand-new range of Hawker Tempests in 1:48, their latest Mk.II has been showered with priase from the modelling community and aftermarket from their own stable, allowing the modeller to add as much or as little as they’d like to augment the already exemplary detail of their kits. There is a small over-printing on the box, which says Print – Castless Brassin, which is new for Eduard, and the set arrives in their shallow cardboard box, which is better for the environment than their old plastic clamshells. This new style of flap sets embraces the march of technology in the field of 3D resin printing (SLA printing to those in the know), and presses it into service to create highly detailed flaps as single parts with all the detail already present. All that is required of the modeller is to free it from the finger-like attachment points that secure it to the printing platform during production. A quick wash in warm soapy water will help to remove any lingering residue from the parts, although they will have already been cleaned with IPA (not beer) at the factory. This reduction in workload for the modeller then leaves them to carry out the removal of the retracted flap surfaces from the lower wing, then scrape the upper wing edges thinner to accommodate the thickness of the PE bay skins. The PE bays have their fronts folded up to create the hinge area, and are then glued to the inside of the upper wing, with the flaps attached to the rear wall of the new bay, using small tabs to strengthen the bond. Repeat this for the other side, and you're done with construction. Simplification of the process makes adding deployed flaps much more appealing, and the more robust flaps will stand up to painting and handling much better than fragile glued-together PE. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  17. Mig-21R SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48042 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set is patterned for Eduard’s own Mig-21R kit that has been re-released recently, and has a full set of insanely detailed 3D instrument panels for the main IP and the side consoles on the decal sheet, plus some additional parts of the harness and arms for the ejection seat. The PE sheet contains sills for the cockpit; additional small instruments and equipment for the cockpit sidewalls; smaller parts for the main IP; a set of seatbelts to merge with the 3D cushioned harness; stencils and ejection pull-handles for the seat; new rudder pedals; horseshoe-shaped lip for the rear cockpit aperture; sensors for the exterior; another hoop for the windscreen and extensive details for within the interior of the canopy, some of which are 3D decals. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Spitfire Mk.XVI SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48041 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set is engineered for their own 1:48 Mk.XVI kit that is still pretty new to the market. The 3D printed sheet contains a full instrument panel in relief, with a separate part in the central section; a new compass face; ribbed cushion for the pilot’s seat; equipment on the cockpit sidewalls, and a prominent run of four red-brown cables running along the right side of the cockpit, coming up from the footwell and disappearing into the throttle box. The PE sheet contains a mount for the compass; head and seat armour for the seat; a full set of harnesses for the pilot; various small parts around the cockpit; door operating mechanism; canopy winder and a pull handle to close or open it manually. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  19. Hello everyone. I don't get on this part of the forum very often as my builds tend to be rather prolonged affairs, but here we are: this is my attempt at building an accurate Sea Vixen FAW.1 at 1/72 scale. A full account of the research materials and design process can be found on the WIP here: The build originally started out nearly two years ago with the original intention of modifying two existing kits (an approach which I pretty soon abandoned on grounds of quality/accuracy),deciding instead to design my own. Shown here is the result of 3d printing with some homebrew PE and vacforming for details. A few other details like pylon braces were hand-made from brass, whilst custom masks and decals were produced to handle the colour work. The designs for this aircraft were produced from a combination of photo-interpretation and the aircraft maintenance manuals - each indispensable in confirming the details of the other - using Fusion 360. I've no background in CAD, or 3d printing - or even making your own brass etch - so the whole undertaking turned out to be a major learning exercise on multiple fronts as different sets design problems arose and needed to be resolved. The aircraft here is actually the first of two FAW.1 designs that I've produced; I'll talk a little more at the end of his post about the next one. Aside from the encouragement of a regular bunch of knowledgeable and generous friends on here, there are specific individuals that I need (as always, I never consider anything I do on here solely 'mine' so much as the result of shared knowledge) to single out for thanks. @71chally - in my view the peerless historian of this de Havilland aircraft made sure that I had the bumps and colours of this aircraft correct. @Navy Bird provided support in the early days of the project and proved (should proof be needed) of how generous modellers are with information. @canberra kid as usual seems to have every British aircraft manual under the sun and filled in the blanks most decently with the pages missing from my own copy. @hendie was - with the routine resin masterpieces that he casually lobs into his builds - the single biggest influence on me turning to 3d printing and has by this stage cost me a bloody fortune in tools over the years.... The following photos then show my reproduction of XJ481, an early production Vixen that ended up being co-opted as a trials aircraft in the late 60s, at which time she received this bold diagonal scheme for work on trials of the Martel missile system. The paint scheme shown here is intended to represent the appearance of the aircraft circa 1970; a more detailed service history being available on the FAA Museum site here. Studio photos to start with then showing some of the details: My personal preference remains the use of daylight in terms of judging the effectiveness of my work in relation to the actual aircraft: Next up over on the WIP will be XN708, a later production version of the FAW.1 that was lost on night exercises in Lyme Bay in 1964. This one will be built as a full display version with wingfolds, moving radar and removable Avon engines: It's already printed - I just need to get cracking and build the thing! Thanks for looking in. Take care, Tony
  20. Sopwith Camel 20lb Bomb Carrier (648662 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Print At the beginning of WWI it had barely occurred to the combatants to use aircraft as anything other than rudimentary reconnaissance platforms, but as time went by the crews began carrying pistols, then rifles, and eventually bombs. Initially, the bombs were lobbed from the cockpit by hand at ad hoc targets, but as time marched on the aircraft became more capable and racks were created to make dropping the ordnance more predictable and accurate. The Camel’s rack could carry four 20lb bombs with remote release from the cockpit, turning the Camel into a true ground attack aircraft. As is now usual with Eduard's smaller resin sets, they arrive in the new shallow Brassin cardboard box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in bags, a piece of foam and the instructions folded around acting as padding. This set is augmented with a “Brassin Print” label, due to the fact that that these delicate parts have been printed directly, rather than cast from 3D printed masters. Inside the box are five resin parts (it’s still resin after all), plus a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass. The finesse of the rack is incredible, and will take some care to remove from the webwork that connects it to the base. The bombs are attached to their base at their fins, and when cut free these parts are linked to the rack by a pin that fits into a socket on the bomb rack. Each bomb has a small PE clip affixed at the front between it and the rack, which prevents the arming spinner from rotating in the aircraft’s slipstream until the bomb is released from the rack. The rack attaches to the model by four rectangular pads that mate with depressions on the underside of the fuselage, completing the assembly. Colour call-outs are given throughout in Eduard’s usual brand of choice, Gunze Sangyo in order to do justice to the detail in this set. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. I recently started a subscription at loot-studios to get some nice Fantasy Miniatures for printing at home. I decided that I want to improve my painting skills with this glorious lady. after printing, cleaning and curing I primed with Vallejo black primer and gave her a zenithal Highlight with white to bring out the details. It‘s just amazing how detailed the figure is! I mean… look at her face! just kidding! loot gives you files rendered in 32mm 75mm and as a bust. my plan is to start with the 32mm version and then go bigger and bigger keeping the paint scheme the same but improving on details, blends and so on. And hopefully this will result in me getting better even in smaller scales. the priming revealed some flaws like layer marks and support stubs that need to be cleaned up. here is the 32mm: 75mm: and the bust: I have not decided on all the colors jet, but she will have a Caucasian skin tone, dark hair and green eyes. that’s it for now cheers Konrad
  22. AVRO Vulcan Olympus Engine Fronts for 301 & 201 Variants 1:72 Member FZ6 Airfix have made a lot of Cold War modellers happy by producing a brand-new tooling of the iconic and beloved AVRO Vulcan using modern tooling methods in 1:72, completing their V-bomber trio in that scale. One of our members FZ6, who we’ll call Mark for our purposes has been beavering away in the background to create a set of engine fronts for the 201 variant of the Olympus engine with its smaller bullet fairing that is missing from the kit, and he also made up the 301 variant as well while he was at it. The reasoning behind this is that with 3D printing you can make a more detailed rendition of the intake fans and stator blades, and as Airfix have included both exhaust sections but not provided 201 engine fronts, it would give him and our members a bit more scope for modelling their favourite airframes. Mark has designed these sets to be an almost drop-in replacement for the kit parts, and each front consists of three layers that installs in a figure-of-eight double cup that fits over the rear end of the kit intake trunking, with two in each side. The holder has a gap in the inner edge to avoid fouling the bomb bay, but some sanding may be required to fine-tune the fit, so test-fitting is advisable. The second compressor face and forward fan are common between the two engine types, with just the front stators with bullet fairing swapped out to create 201 or 301 engines, and each of the two front layers will need sanding back to remove the carrier material and open up the triangular spaces between the blades. As you can see from the photos, I have done this for some of the parts as part of the review process, and I used an aggressive sanding stick to abrade the extra thickness from the parts quickly, which is easy to differentiate because it projects beyond the edge of the part slightly. Once the parts are prepped, sanding dust removed and after a brief scrub with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), it’s simply a case of painting them up and gluing the three layers into the holders with super glue (CA), then gluing the assembly into the painted intake trunking. Even though Airfix provide the 301 engine fronts in the kit, these replacements are much more detailed thanks to their part-count and the finesse of modern at-home 3D Stereo Lithography printing, commonly known as SLA. It is worthwhile replacing those parts for the detail improvement alone, but as previously mentioned, the addition of the 201 engines gives the modeller more breadth of subjects to choose markings from. Don’t forget to line up the stator blades on the front layer before adding the glue (I didn’t because I forgot, but they weren’t glued), as those tended to stay still in the trunking unless the engine was in the process of exploding. Conclusion The parts are well designed and printed, with no visible layering where it will be seen, and the only clean-up involves the removal of the backing carrier layers from the two front parts. If you have a new Airfix Vulcan, you’d be well-advised to pick up a set of these by having a chat with Mark on the forum. He’ll sell you 201 or 301 or both as you require. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Mark’s good nature. Click the link below to visit his forum profile. [insert the FZ6 logo here when he becomes rich and famous]
  23. Recently, I built four 3D printed prototypes of the upcoming 1/144 Beacon Models Spitfire Mkia kit. Being 3D printed prototypes, these will have been more challenging then the final product is going to be and aren’t fully representative of that either. They went together pretty well and are nicely detailed for the scale. The canopy parts were very thin, which was a challenge due to the 3D printed resin material, I cracked two of the spares I was provided with. The surface detail is very nice, panel lines are pretty good for the scale (I emphasised them with a dark wash). The only problem I can report is that I’m going to have to wait a while until the plastic version is on sale before I can start building about 10 boxes of these. I think another modeller is building the Mkiia version now, also 3D printed prototypes. The roundels have a bit of a white outline, but these aren’t the final versions, which will be printed by Cartograf. The first one which would become SH-W
  24. Latest in a line of Prints I'm doing from Archvillain Games Patreon Circus Grotesque. I've printed these with a slight reduction to make them 28mm scale which is what we use in our D&D group. 3 hour total paint time, all painted using Scale 75 acrylics and FW inks Thanks for looking Sean
  25. Another figure from the Circus Grotesque, Raza the Fortune Teller Again she has been shrunk to be 28mm scale and is still 90mm tall..... 3.5 hour paint job, painted in my favourite paints, Scale 75 acrylics and FW inks Thanks for looking Sean
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