Search the Community

Humber LRC Mk.II (8065) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby One of Great Britain’s long defunct motor manufacturers went by the name of Rootes, who produced the brand Humber, and in the late 30s, they designed the Super Snipe, which reached market in 1938, somewhat optimistically before the outbreak of WWII. As civilian car manufacturing was suspended in the UK during this period, Humber used the chassis for the Super Snipe to create a light armoured car, and the engine that had propelled it to a top speed close to 80mph, went to help carry the additional weight of its armour. Despite the embargo on civilian cars, the Super Snipe also continued relatively unchanged as a military staff car, transporting many top brass around the country. The new Light Reconnaissance Car (LRC) was armoured to withstand small-arms fire, with a maximum of 10mm at the front, and a little less on the back and sides, but the Mk.I had an open top, leaving it vulnerable to plunging fire, grenades and explosives, plus shrapnel, not to mention the weather. The Mk.II had a roof that was 7mm thick, with the turret conversely only 6mm, but on the basis that some protection is better than none and steel is waterproof, it was an improvement. The Boys anti-tank rifle was forward facing in a mount with limited elevation, with a Bren gun in the turret that could deal with the enemy for close-range engagements. The engine had been upgraded to a 4.1L 6-cylinder engine that drove the rear wheels only up until the Mk.III, which benefitted from four-wheel drive that improved its rough ground handling, replacing the Mk.II in late 41. The Kit This is a new tooling from CMK, and is a resin creation that has been designed with a combination of traditional cast resin, 3D printed resin, Photo-Etch (PE), and even a few decals, using the most appropriate method to get the job done. The kit arrives in a modest cardboard box with captive lid, and a red themed sticker on top to tell us what’s inside. Under the lid are a row of heat-sealed bag sections protecting the cast resin, a Ziploc bag that contains the 3D printed parts, which are on two print bases with protective legs on the corners, another small bag with the PE and decals inside, and instructions that is formed from two sheets of A4 printed in colour and stapled into a booklet. There are thirty-four cast resin parts in grey, twenty-nine 3D printed parts in a different grey, a rectangular clear part, five PE parts, and nine decals. Detail is excellent, removal of the casting blocks and clean-up shouldn’t represent too much of an issue, as the attachment points have been positioned to minimise damage to the detail of the parts. Give the parts a wash in warm soapy water to remove any lingering release agent, and remember that breathing in fine dust such as resin isn’t good for you. Construction begins with the floor, which has the chassis integrated into the underside, and is joined by two seats, stowage boxes, driver controls on the right, and the base for the turret that is built from a single PE part that is folded into a step-stool with a hole in the centre. Under the chassis, leaf springs, axle, and drive-shaft are installed under the rear, fitting the steering axle at the front, with disc-brakes and steering arm, the two sides tied together by a single leaf spring. The lower chassis is completed by mounting the exhaust and its muffler under the left side of the vehicle, putting the assembly aside until the two halves are mated and the wheels are added. The body of the beast is moulded as a single tub, and is decked out with a bulkhead in the forward compartment, mounting the steering column, wheel and instrument panel behind it, and using the clear panel to give the driver a chance of seeing where he’s about to drive. The instructions tell you to give the clear resin a coat of gloss varnish to improve its transparency, which is a standard method when dealing with cast clear resin. Further back are five stowed weapons and entrenching tools, plus a shelf on the right side with a No.19 radio set fitted, so the crew can keep in touch with HQ. With the painting and weathering done on the inside, the body and chassis are joined, and the front is festooned with bumper, horn, fenders, wing mirrors, lights, convoy light, and a PE bracket, adding the optional open or closed radiator armour by using the two separate parts, or one V-shaped part so that you don’t have to set the angle yourself, which is a great idea. Moving round the vehicle, the hatches are fitted to the top and sides, rear fenders, all four wheels, which have some nice detail moulded-in, and another batch of tools that are all glued to the external stowage box, or boot as we call it in the UK. It's not over yet. The Boys anti-tank rifle is slotted into the front next to the driver’s hatch, which gets a hatch cover, fitting a PE aerial mast on the rear corner of the right side, using a resin antenna base, and a length of wire from your supplies box to finish the assembly. The turret is predominantly built from 3D printed parts, with just the seat cast from resin, suspended on three supports under the conical turret, and with a Bren gun projecting from the front on a Y-shaped mount. A couple of spare magazines are also included to suspend from the verticals next to the gunner, and the completed turret assembly is dropped into the hole in the top of the hull, locating the peg on the bottom of the seat in the PE ‘stool’ installed on the floor at outset. Markings There is just one decal option included on the small sheet, which is as follows: The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion The detail included in the parts is excellent, and despite the fact that it’s not my scale, it has that “build me” vibe about it. Careful painting and weathering will make a great model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Vietnam Era US Helicopter Pilot Helmet x 2 (6009) 1:35 CMK by Special Hobby We’ve been reviewing several 1:35 helicopter kits from ICM and other manufacturers recently, as the scale enjoys a resurgence of interest, especially for rotary wing craft. We’ve had the CH-53 Tarhe and the AH-1 Cobra to name but two, and there have also been crew figure sets in styrene to add a human dimension to the kits. As usual with CMK's resin sets, it arrives in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. The Photo-Etch (PE) is separated from the resin parts by a clear piece of acetate to prevent scratching and damage during transit. The designers at CMK have created this simple set of two helmets from the Vietnam era that are cast on a single block with their attachment points on the rounded top of the helmet where clean-up will be easiest. PE parts are also included, to depict the chin straps and the comms booms that were attached to the sides, and will add superb detail to your model, regardless of whether you include figures, as you can place them on the seats as if the pilots or other crew have just vacated their ride for a cup of tea or personal break after a long mission. Preparation will involve cutting the helmets free at the tubular attachment point, then sanding the stub back to match the rounded profile of the dome at the back of the helmet, then fitting the PE straps and boom mic using a dab of super glue. Painting it will really bring the helmet to life. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Typhoon Mk.I Engine (P72012 for Airfix) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby The Airfix Typhoon has been on the market for a couple of years now, and it’s a good model of the exterior of this ground attack legend. If you wanted to depict the engine under the cowlings however, the kit doesn’t supply any details there other than the exhausts in their troughs on the sides of the nose. CMK have given us options with this set however, and the detail is exceptional, especially for the scale. As is usual for their larger resin sets, it arrives in a small yellow-themed cardboard box, and inside is a bag containing a palette of orange resin parts under a protective canopy, with the instructions folded up next to them, acting as additional protection for the parts. All the parts are found on one print-base, and the canopy’s supporting legs have notches to assist with their removal, which is a good thing, as these sets are terribly difficult to photograph otherwise! Construction begins with removing the upper cowlings from the kit fuselage halves, as per the red marked areas on the drawings, trimming the edges of the engine compartment at the same time. The engine and ancillaries are printed as a single part, and as is normal for 3D printed parts, they are attached to their print-bases by many fine fingers that taper at the top end to reduce clean-up once you have liberated the part(s) from the base. A little light sanding is usually sufficient to make any marks disappear, after which you can start putting parts together. The engine has the double exhaust stubs added to both sides in rows of six, adding a prop-shaft to the front, after which is should be painted and weathered, then it can be lowered into the completed fuselage, test fitting before you get too far into the process. The other parts included are four engine bay covers of differing shapes and sizes that can be placed on the wings or a trestle nearby, as if they have been laid there by the mechanics before they went for a brew. Conclusion Detail is phenomenal, and the finished article will add much realism to your model with some sympathetic painting and weathering. It’s worth noting that there are ground crew and starter cart sets available from CMK in the same orange resin and scale to augment the detail here. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

TBF-3/TBM-3 Avenger Paddle Blade Propeller Correction Set (4472 for Accurate Miniatures) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby The TBF/TBM-3 was an upgraded version of the initial -1 variant of the Avenger, fitted with a more powerful engine and other minor upgrades, depending on the sub-variant. The new engine drove a paddle-bladed propeller, which is the subject of this new set, patterned for the Accurate Miniatures kit, which has also been reboxed by Academy at times. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Construction of the set is straight-forward, requiring removal of the three propeller blades and the boss from their casting-blocks, and the cuts cleaned up. A hole should be drilled in the centre of the boss at the rear to match the axle that is described as kit part 10, and the blades are plugged into the three sockets around the boss, which have a nick in the surround to accept a key on the base of the blades. You should note that the parts should be cut flush with the casting block, as those are the pegs that hold it in place. It might also be worth depending the holes with a 1.5mm bit to give the blades more purchase, in case there is excess resin in the holes. Take care to align the blades with each other to ensure they will rotate evenly, even if you intend to glue the prop in position, as any inconsistencies will be readily visible on the finished model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

German Truck V3000S Wheels (3150 for ICM & Revell) 1:35 CMK by Special Hobby The V3000S Maultier was an almost ubiquitous truck in the German military during WWII, that was built by Ford’s German subsidiary that conveniently changed its name to Ford-Werke at the beginning of the war. They played a large part in German’s mobility throughout the war, and the basic chassis was re-engineered into many different variants during that time. Following the war, Mr Ford, who was a big fan of the Nazis before the war was ‘compensated’ for damage to his factories by the Allies in Germany, and also given the profits during the war to further sweeten the deal. The Set This set has been patterned with the ICM kit in mind, which has also been seen in Revell boxes since release, as they have a healthy collaborative release schedule in place. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. There are fifteen resin parts in the box, comprising seven wheels, four hubs and four hub-caps to completely replace the kit parts, and add a slight weighting to the bottom of the tyres where the rubber is flexing under the pressure of the truck it supports. They are a drop-in replacement for the kit once they have been removed from their casting blocks, which are conveniently placed on the contact patches to hide any blemishes or mistakes there. The front axle has single wheels, which are supported by the brake drums on the inner side, followed by the integrated hubs and tyres, then completing the stack with the small caps. The rear wheels are similarly made, but for the fact that there are two wheels on each axle to support the weight of the cargo, and longer caps to pass through the extra width. Conclusion After liberating the parts from their casting blocks and giving them a wash in warm, soapy water, the parts should take paint well, the deep tread and sidewall detail ready to take weathering washes or pigments to give the running gear a more realistic look than the original kit parts. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

AH-1G Cobra Cockpit (6008 for ICM) 1:35 CMK by Special Hobby ICM released a brand-new AH-1 Cobra tooling last year, in what seems to be the prevailing larger scale for helicopters presently, 1:35. You can our review of one of the boxings here in case you missed it first time around. It’s a well-detailed kit, but you can always improve on injection- moulded styrene with resin and Photo-Etch (PE), which is why we now have this cockpit set from CMK. The set arrives in a small yellow-themed cardboard box, and inside are twenty-three grey cast resin parts, sixteen orange resin parts squeezed into a small 3D print base, a small slip of clear acetate printed with HUD glass shapes, and the detail as you would expect is excellent. Another bag contains the thick instruction sheet and two frets of PE, one in bare brass, the other nickel-plated and pre-painted with exceptional detail. The photo above shows the 3D printed resin with the canopy removed so that more of the parts and their detail can be seen. Construction begins with the seats, which are both built in the same manner around differing bases, the rear pilot’s seat with “mickey mouse ears”, the gunner’s having full-width head armour. They both have seat base cushions added, and four-point pre-painted crew belts from the PE sheet, basing the front seat on another resin part that raises it in the cockpit. The rear seat has some small resin and 3D parts glued to the bottom rear, then they are both inserted in the kit cockpit tub after removing a block to the left of the gunner’s seat. That block is replaced by a resin part, adding another to the gunner’s opposite side, and both crew have foot-pegs inserted into their compartments, as shown by a scrap diagram nearby. The gunner’s controls are made from two 3D printed parts, while the pilot’s collective and cyclic sticks are made from a selection of resin and 3D printed parts, with a little 0.4mm wire from your own stores included. They are attached to the cockpit, adding other controls to the gunner’s side consoles, then making up a pair of instrument panels from the kit coamings and panels that have been stripped of their moulded-in detail, leaving a flat plate on which to glue the two layers of pre-painted PE that will represent the instruments, dials and their glossy lenses, using a clear gloss varnish to mount the front part, taking care not to let the gloss overflow onto the matt surrounds. They are installed in the cockpit as per the kit instructions, then the pilot’s HUD is built from a 3D part, adding two PE details, and two clear lenses cut from the acetate sheet, noting the scrap diagram nearby to see how it should look once finished. Two more spacers are affixed to the coaming between the two crew stations, fitting a fire extinguisher to the port side, which will inject a little colour into the interior, which has colour call-outs made throughout the instructions. The completed cockpit is then trapped between the two fuselage halves along with other kit parts, augmenting the detail on the shelf behind the pilot with two new resin parts and some detailed painting instructions, then sliding armour panels down the sides of the cockpit in place of the kit parts, the starboard side having extra parts fitted during assembly. A pair of corrugated hoses are found on the 3D base, linking the crew seats to the bulkheads behind them, and you are instructed to cut a small area from the port forward armour panel if you have the canopy open on your model. The remaining parts are used to improve the canopy, starting with the long narrow windscreen/roof that stretches between the nose and the rear of the cockpit. A large PE part is Z-folded to create a thick block to install under the rear of the canopy, adding a resin handle to the middle, and four grab-handles to the sides of the glazing. A rear-view mirror is installed at the top of the windscreen, and a triangular instrument binnacle is glued to the left screen frame, then the part can be mated with the cockpit after detail painting. If you are posing the canopy sides open, the forward port door/window has a replacement for the portion of the armour you cut out earlier glued to it first, with a handle made from wire. The open canopies both have handles made from wire, plus a pair of PE props to hold them at the correct angle, both of which aren’t needed if you intend to leave the canopy closed for flight. A couple of scrap diagrams show the location of the props in blue to assist with their location. Markings The instructions have a series of colour call-outs in every step, with a letter code converted to colour names and Gunze Sangyo Mr Color codes in both H and C ranges in a list at the top of the instruction booklet, so-called because the three A4 pages are stapled into an A5 booklet, with adverts for other Special Hobby products on the back two pages. Conclusion The combination of traditional and 3D printed resin and PE leads to an excellent level of detail, and a pair of instrument panels that few modellers could aspire to emulate. The large clear windows will show off the work you have put into the improvements, regardless of whether you leave the canopies open or closed. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

60cm Flak Scheinwerfer (Flak Sw-36) mit Sd.Ah.51 Světlomet 60N s Vlekem (8069) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby Searchlights were the only way of finding enemy aircraft from the ground prior to the invention of radar and reliable infrared detection of targets, and all nations had their own systems to use in the run up to WWII. Germany’s system started with a 60cm reflector that output a staggering 137,550,000 candles of light in a tightly focused beam, which is the equivalent of 1.729004e9 lumens, if you can wrap your head round that number. Imagine 5,763,345 of your average 5w LED bulbs crowded into that space, and you’ll be getting there. There were larger diameter lenses at 150cm and 200cm, but we’re concerned with the baby of the range, which is kitted here by CMK in glorious 3D printed detail, using their signature orange resin that is strong and flexible. The Kit The kit arrives in a small white cardboard box with a sticker of the subject matter covering one side, and inside are two 3D printed protective frameworks containing many resin parts in orange, plus a small bag of punched clear acetate circles, although they were missing from our example. The largest print frame contains most of the parts for the chassis and running gear, while the cylindrical searchlight is in another smaller frame, both of which are protected by sturdy supports in the form of a framework that has small nicks indicating weakened spots where the top can be cut free with a pair of nippers without damaging the parts. We nipped them off to show off more of the exquisite detail, and they have clearly been developed with protection in mind, including a web-work of internal structure to the floor and roof that adds strength to the whole arrangement. The bag contains two small clear acetate discs, one of which is used as the outer lens for the searchlight, the other is provided as a spare in case of loss or damage. Construction is relatively simple, which is a common theme in 3D printed models. The base of the searchlight is a single part, into which you slot the cylindrical lamp body, painting the louvres and interior silver, then applying the clear acetate disc over the top to represent the lens, or the separate cover that is used during off-periods and in transport. The carriage is built up separately, consisting of the chassis and two separate wheels that slip over axles under the curved arches. You then have a choice of joining the two assemblies together to depict the unit in transit, or leaving them separate so that you can pose the light in operation nearby, with the carriage in the background. The lights were powered by an 8KW generator when in operation, which was mounted on a similar carriage as the searchlight, and we’re hoping that we’ll be reviewing that shortly. Markings There are no decals on the model, and external painting is straight forward, requiring a choice between early war Dark Grey, sometimes referred to as Panzer Grey, or the later war Dunkelgelb or Dark Yellow. The operator’s seat is painted a leather brown, and of course the tyres will be a rubber grey shade. Weathering will add some visual interest to your model once basic painting is completed. Conclusion A fantastically detailed model of this compact searchlight that is a rarity in the modelling world. Careful painting and weathering will result in an excellent model that can be placed on the shelf near its targets, or as part of a diorama. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Dear fellow Britmodellers, this is the new 1/72 T-34/85 from chinese company Flyhawk. Photos by Wolfgang Rabel. The Flyhawk kit is another tooling masterpiece from the far east, including photo-etch pieces. All parts are sharp and crisp and fit well, the tracks even allow the characteristic sagging. The metal towing cable is very stiff, so I replaced it with 0.60mm wire from Eureka. The figure is from CMK. I painted with Mr.Hobby acrylics and weathered with artist oils, graphite pen, pastels and mud from my garden. Additional stowage from Blackdog. Thank you for your interest. Roman

SS-100 Gigant Update sets (P48010 & 8068 for Tamiya) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby The Hanomag Gigant was a German WWII prime-mover that was originally a pre-war civilian tractor that was impressed into military service to tow aircraft, Vidalwagen V-2 rocket launch transport units, and Meillerwagen V-2 erector systems. Tamiya released their 1:48 kit in 2017 as an aircraft tug, and re-released it in 2019 towing an 88mm flak 37. These sets are intended to upgrade the detail on these kits, addressing the slightly simplified hollow tyres, and adding extra detail to the prominent radiator at the front of the vehicle. As usual with CMK and Special Hobby's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Front Radiator Mask (P48010) The name of this set is slightly misleading, but it supplies a new radiator grille and the core behind it, both 3D printed in orange resin and consisting of two parts on a single print base. The two parts are liberated from the base and are glued together, inserting the radiator core behind the grille after painting, and removing the raised nose section of the kit’s bodyshell to fit the new assembly, which locks in place thanks to a block on the rear of the radiator core. It should massively increase the realism of the area, as the individual grille louvres are printed separately, so the radiator behind it will be visible in good light. The grille also has the word Hanomag in raised letters above it, and a filler cap on the top. Wheels (8068) This set replaces the kit wheels that are a little simple, particularly in the rear twin-wheel axles, which have hollow inner sides. The single front wheels are drop-in replacements for the one-part kit wheels, giving much more finesse to the detail, while the rear wheels are mounted in pairs, correctly rendered with both sides of the tyres, and the particular hubs that permit their mounting in tandem, as per the real thing. A separate hub part is also included for each part. The spare tyres is moulded with a larger cut-out in the centre along that is flashed over on the casting block plus bolt-holes around the circumference, and comes with a pair of clamps that attach it to the rear wall of the double cab of the vehicle. Review sample courtesy of

PV-1 Ventura Cockpit, Nose & Turret Armament (4467 & 4469 for Revell/Academy) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby It’s hard to believe that the Revell 1:48 Lockheed PV-1 Ventura was released as far back as 2011, but I’ve still got both of mine and haven’t built either, to my shame. It’s a nice kit, even by today’s standards, but as with all injection-moulded models, its level of detail can be improved upon by the application of resin casting, which is what CMK’s artisans have done. The two sets we have for review arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and yellow-themed instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Decals and Photo-Etch (PE) when included are separated from the resin parts by a clear piece of acetate to prevent scratching and damage during transit. Pilot Cockpit (4467) This set includes eighteen grey resin parts, two 3D printed control yokes, a small sheet of printed acetate instruments, a decal sheet with instrument dials, and a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) that contains an instrument panel and seatbelts. Construction begins with thinning the cockpit side walls in a thick L-shape that matches the new resin inserts, which are glued into position once they are suitably deep. The rear cockpit bulkhead has the door support cut out, and this is glued to the cockpit floor, adding two instrument clusters in the centre, plus a throttle quadrant on a tall stand, adding eight PE levers into the grooves on top. Two resin control columns are mounted on the floor, and are topped with the 3D control yokes, and the crew seats are built. The pilot’s seat has a high back and arm rests moulded in, adding four-point seatbelts from the PE sheet, then mounting it on the bulkhead behind it on a pair of projecting supports. The co-pilot’s seat is less luxurious, with no arms, and utilising the kit legs to attach it to the floor, adding lap-belts to the completed seat, as we must presume that his head is of lesser value than the pilot’s even though he has full controls to fly the aircraft. The instrument panel is made up from layers, depending on how you prefer to create your panels, starting with the resin back plane, which has the instrument dial recesses moulded-in, and you have the choice of either decaling that, or using the acetate film and painting the rear white, adding the PE layer over the top after painting it. Alternately, you can mount the PE panel over the decal. It’s entirely up to you. The pilot’s rudder pedals are well-detailed resin parts and are suspended from the rear of the panel, as are the co-pilot’s pedals, although they are simplified L-shaped rods that mount on a cross-bar, one end of which fits into a slot in the rear of the instrument panel. The completed panel is glued to the central quadrant box, which is glued to the forward section of the floor. Nose and Turret Armament (4469) This set is well-detailed, but straight forward in use, replacing the kit barrels in the belly gunner and top turret positions. The belly gunner uses the rear portion of the kit part, supplanting the barrels with the twin perforated resin barrels provided in the new set. The upper turret is a replacement for the kit parts, consisting of the two barrels linked together, adding a pair of resin breech parts to the rear. The other barrels are for the two nose guns in the upper portion of the nose, which are straight replacements for the kit parts and add extra detail there. The three barrels under the nose are installed in a resin fairing, adding three angled shrouds to the fairing before inserting the barrels into them, taking care to align them all in the direction of flight and at the same angle. This fairing is then mounted under the fuselage within the lines detailed on the accompanying drawings. Conclusion A great and cost-effective update to the kit, with more sets available to upgrade the flying surfaces on the tail and ailerons. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Tempest Mk.V Resin & 3D Printed Update Sets (For Airfix) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby Airfix released their Hawker Tempest Mk.V in 1:72 a few years ago, and it’s a great little kit, but as always you can improve on injected styrene with resin, either traditionally cast, or 3D printed for ultimate detail. CMK have created a host of new sets to allow the modeller to ramp-up the detail to extreme levels, working with parts that are almost drop-in, far from the origins of aftermarket that could sometimes be difficult to fit inside the constraints of the kit parts. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. The larger engine set is in a cardboard box, with the parts in Ziploc bags, padded out by the folded instruction booklet. Engine & Fuselage Tanks (P72008) This set consists of only eight parts of 3D printed resin, but don’t let that dissuade you. The engine is protected inside the boxed-in printing base, which can be simply opened with a razor saw or nippers along the lines shown by nicks in the vertical supports. The detail is phenomenal, especially the engine, which is printed as a single part, minus its exhaust stubs. The instructions show the upper cowling panels that should be removed in red, reducing the edges to give a more realistic look. The engine is prepped and painted before it is installed in the nose in front of the cockpit, with the tanks printed integrally along with the bulkheads and ribs, needing just the exhaust stubs slotted into the sides of the massive engine block. To hang the prop off the front, a drive-shaft is pushed into a hole in the front bulkhead, then the four cowling panels that are printed at a much more scale thickness with stiffening frames on the inner faces, to be left nearby as if the mechanics have just departed for a cuppa. Exhausts (P72011) If you want your Tempest in-flight or parked-up and prepared for take-off, this set includes just the exhaust stubs on a single print-base, which are a drop-in replacement for the kit parts once liberated from their base. The detail is far superior to the kit parts, with weld-seams and hollow lips to the exhausts that add realism to your model quickly and easily. Early Gun Barrels (P72009) Containing two inserts with a pair of cannon barrels each on a single print base, handed for each wing, these parts are a straight-forward drop-in replacement for the kit parts, depicting the earlier barrel shrouds. Gunsight & Seat Correction Set (P72010) Consisting of two parts, the seat is printed in incredible detail in orange resin, and the gunsight in clear resin that is loose in the blister pack, so could easily be lost. Take care when opening the package, as it’s a very small part. Wheels Early & Late (Q72413 & Q72414) These two sets both provide a pair of wheels with different hubs and tyres. The early wheels are treadless and have five spoked hubs, while the later set has block treaded tyres and four spoke hubs on different style bases, as they are traditionally cast. They add a ton of detail and are a drop-in replacement once you have cut them from their casting blocks on the contact patch where the tyre is slightly flattened by the weight of the aircraft. Early (Q72413) Late (Q72414) Tempest Pilot, Dog & Mechanic with Accumulator Trolley (F72402) To add a little human scale, this figure set includes two humans, a pilot and ground crew member, a dog, and an accumulator trolley that was a must-have to start your Tempest in a dispersal location. The figures are all 3D printed in one part each, while the accumulator is protected inside a box-like print base, which is easy to cut where there are pre-made weakening points on the vertical supports. The trolley and A-frame are printed as one, needing just the wheels fitting to the axles at the sides, but bear in mind that the towing eye is incredibly delicate due to its scale size, so take care handling it. Conclusion You can pick and choose which of these sets that you are interested in for your model, or you can push the boat out and fit them all, although you’ll have to decide of which wheels you want to use. The detail is excellent, especially the engine, which will blow the socks off your viewers once the model is complete. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Hetzer/StuG IIIG (Late) Remote Controlled MG34 (P35020 for various manufacturers) 1:35 CMK by Special Hobby There are many StuG IIIG kits and a few Hetzer models out there in 1:35, which is great for AFV modellers, and this set is designed to add a remote controlled MG34 installation that was sometimes found on the roof of these tank killers, allowing the crew to defend against troops attacks without putting themselves in the way of incoming small-arms rounds. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Photo-Etch (PE) when included is separated from the resin parts by a clear piece of acetate to prevent scratching and damage during transit. There are ten 3D printed parts on two bases in orange resin, which seems to blend two desired qualities of flexibility with strength to ease their use with your model. The MG34 is mounted on a circular base with mechanisms to elevate, fire and rotate the gun without crew being outside the vehicle, as well as giving them a sight-picture via a periscope that passes through the armoured roof. This is a single part, to which the gun mount is fitted, along with a short length of wire that you must source from your own stock, which operates the trigger under the weapon once it is installed. The gun is without a stock, but has a drum magazine fitted on to the left side of the breech, slotting into the mount on two locations. A clamp with turnbuckle holds it in place, and a short length of spent link is glued to the ejection port, drooping under gravity. If someone has to go outside to cock the weapon, clear a stoppage or swap the magazine, you have a choice of two styles of sharply raked splinter shields, one cut to fit the Hetzer’s roof, the other for the StuG, both of which attach to each other at the front, and four mounting pads that correspond to recesses on the bottom of the armour for a firm connection. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

P-39Q Airacobra Engine (7515 for Arma Hobby) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby Model manufacturers Arma Hobby have created a welcome modern tooling of the Bell Airacobra recently, and this set is intended to upgrade the detail further on the P-39Q variant that we reviewed here, adding engine details. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Inside the box are three cast grey resin components, plus a pair of 3D printed exhaust stacks on a single print base. The engine on the Airacobra is set back behind the cockpit, and is accessed by a large panel just behind the pilot’s door. To install the set, the first task is to remove the port panel, which is indicated by a diagram on the short instruction sheet. A boxed-in bay is installed in the space inside, which then receives the detailed portion of the engine block that will be seen through the hatch, adding the longer set of exhaust stubs with hollow tips to the recessed outer side of the engine. A shorter set is applied to the opposite fuselage half, which remains intact, as the panel is cut from only the port side. The final part is a replacement access panel, which can be left on the wing or nearby, having additional detail, a more scale thickness, and the added bonus of not having to be too careful with the section of fuselage that you must cut out, allowing you to cut it more accurately, leaving a margin around the edges that you can trim and sand to obtain a better fit. Painting of the new parts is up to you, but there is plenty of reference material out there, so it shouldn’t be too taxing. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Bactrian Camels x 2 (F72399) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby The camel, known colloquially as the ‘ship of the desert’, is a large mammal that is as cantankerous as it is capable, having a huge fatty water storage hump on its back that allows it to travel for up to 40 days without a proper drink, its long legs and large padded feet making it a capable of travelling vast distances without taking one step forward and two back on sand dunes. They’re still used everywhere there’s a desert, although 4x4 transport is taking over where the need arises. We have already reviewed a few more camels than we ever thought we would, and still they keep coming. This set from CMK is something like the 7th now, if we count both 1:48 and 1:72, and it’s highly likely that we’ll be updating this review with additional pictures to show the 1:48 Bactrian camel set, as they have a habit of arriving in pairs, much like the humps of this shaggier camel variant. Unlike the Dromedary, the Bactrian is also capable of enduring extreme cold and high altitudes, which along with their stamina and tolerance for meagre rations, were probably prime reasons for their use travelling the Silk Road in days of yore. The set is 3D printed in 1:72 for your next desert diorama, or one already built that simply needs more camels in it to achieve perfection, whether it’s in the background or playing a more central role. The set is supplied in the usual clamshell box with card header, with the small instruction sheet trapped in front of the header, all secured by a single staple. The instructions are simple, consisting of a line-drawn visual of the model with markings examples. There are two camels in different poses in the box, and they each still have supports attached to the underside, which are easy to clip off and sand the remaining pips back flush. One camel is sitting with its legs folded, while the other is in an ambiguous standing pose that could be walking or stopped to admire the view, and both have shaggier fur that is concentrated around the tops of their humps, necks and in a fringe around the top of their heads. Conclusion They’re camels, miserable spitty things that are lucky they’re good beasts of burden, or they wouldn’t be so numerous. CMK's designers have done a good job of replicating their look and the texture of their fur, then it's up to you to paint them as well as you can. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Army Zetor Tractor Driver and Mechanic (F72390) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby If you’ve seen the 1:72 Military Zetor Tractor (reviewed here) that was used heavily around Soviet era air fields to tow smaller aircraft around the base, you might be interested in this figure set. As usual with CMK's resin sets, it arrives in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. There are two resin figures in the box, each attached to a casting block by their feet, although the seated driver is also connected by the chair that is moulded into his behind. The driver and standing figure are both wearing the overalls of Soviet era mechanics and forage caps of the kind that fold flat. Both are looking to their right, presumably in the direction that they are intending to travel, perhaps the dispersal bay of the MiG-15 they are towing in the drawing, which isn’t included just in case it hadn’t dawned on you. They are well-moulded and sculpting is good, with realistic poses and fabric drape on their overalls. The moulded seat of the driver will allow you to glue him directly in position without worrying about locating him on the seat, as the original seat is left off the tractor. He has one hand on the wheel and the other on his lap, so locating him on the kit wheel should be easier after removing the supporting flash that has been used to improve moulding success, and can be scraped away quickly and easily. Adding human scale to any model is a great way to improve it, especially well-detailed figures like these, and transporting a shut-down MiG around the airfield was a common task during the Cold War and beyond. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Concrete Hedgehog WWII Anti-Tank Barrier (8066 & 2062) 1:48 & 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby Tank barriers are important aspects of any defensive line of the 20th century onwards, and they are intended to stop tanks in their tracks to prevent their advance, and therefore leave any infantry without their mobile heavy weapons support, or render them immobile and vulnerable to artillery fire. Various designs have been used over the years, and we’re looking at the concrete type fielded during WWII, which was nicknamed Hedgehog for fairly obvious reasons, as it’s a prickly customer. Made from cast concrete with metal reinforcement within, forming a similar shape to a jack from the game of the same name, the lower ends dig into the ground under their own weight, and if a tank rubs up against it, there is a good chance it will become snagged on the obstacle, stopping it from advancing any further. The rebar projects from the ends of the arms in a pig-tail curl to accommodate barbed wire entanglements, which would make the chances of stopping the enemy even greater. Similar style obstacles are still in use today. Both sets arrive in clear-fronted vacformed boxes, with the header card and instructions at the rear, whilst the resin parts inside are safely stored inside a cocoon of dark grey foam. There are four Hedgehogs in the smaller 1:72 set, while the larger 1:48 set has two Hedgehogs due to the extra size, and they are all cast on individual blocks with narrow attachment supports reducing the amount of clean-up on the underside. You’ll need to find some wire to create the pig-tail curls at the ends of the arms, and there are pictures on the instructions that will help you in this regard. Concrete Hedgehog x 2 (8066) Concrete Hedgehog x 4 (2062) Conclusion These sets are great for the diorama modeller, and their level of detail is excellent, down to the fine concrete texture and the tiny holes to accept the wire tails. Minimal clean-up of the parts further sweetens the package. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Dromedary Camels x 2 (F72397 & F48398) 1:72 & 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby The camel, known colloquially as the ‘ship of the desert’, is a large mammal that is as cantankerous as it is capable, having a huge fat storage hump on its back that allows it to travel for up to 40 days without a proper drink, its long legs and large padded feet making it a capable of travelling vast distances without taking one step forward and two back on sand dunes. They’re still used everywhere there’s a desert, although 4x4 transport is taking over where the need arises. I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry when these sets arrived, as I’ve already reviewed a few more camels than I ever thought I would. I think the total is up to six now, and there are more coming. I’m not quite serious, but I seem to remember making a comment in the first review that I’d never reviewed a camel before, and likely never would again. I guess I was wrong… again. These two sets are 3D printed in two scales to go with your 1:72 or 1:48 desert diorama, whether it’s in the background or playing a more central role. Both sets are supplied in the usual clamshell box with card header, the colours and branding different by scale for reasons that aren’t immediately apparent. The instructions are simple, and are hidden between the resin part and the backing, consisting of a simple visual of the model with painting examples. There are two camels in different poses in each box, and they each still have supports attached to the underside, which are easy to clip off and sand the remaining pips back flush. 1:72 Dromedary (F72397) 1:48 Dromedary (F48398) With only a little work to do to remove the attachment pips on the underside, they should be ready for paint pretty quickly, and the detail is superb, even down to the recreation of the changing texture of the animal’s pelt, where it changes to a coarser consistency around the hump. One camel is sitting down with its legs folded underneath, as is their way, while the other is standing up with its legs in a pose that implies movement, but could also be used in a standing pose, as it isn’t a particularly dynamic stance – probably for that very reason. Markings There are no decals, although I suspect I didn’t really need to mention that, however a quick Google of camel pictures will come back with plenty of examples of their colouring to aid you with painting them. It might also see you put on some kind of esoteric register of camel fanciers, but it also might not. Conclusion Detail is fabulous, with every aspect of the camel carefully replicated, including the shaggy texture of the animal’s fur and its goofy face, however it looks a little too cheerful based on the camels I’ve met before. Camels are always ill-tempered and often spitty. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Dornier Do.17Z Wing Fuel Tank Panels & Filler Caps (4465 for ICM) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby A few years ago, ICM created a range of 1:48 kits of the German Bomber that began with the Dornier Do.17, and evolved during the war into several variants that were sometimes only recognisable by their similar design cues and skinny fuselage, which earned it the nickname “The Flying Pencil”. The kits are modern, well-detailed and readily available, but as I always say, you can always improve the detail. This set goes beyond adding detail to the visible areas of the kit, and delves into the equipment hidden beneath the aircraft’s skin, specifically the wings. The inner wing areas of the Do.17Z were filled with fuel tanks that fed the BMW Bramo Fafnir radial engines that were mounted in nacelles under the wings outboard of the tanks. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Decals and Photo-Etch (PE) is separated from the resin parts by a clear piece of acetate to prevent scratching and damage during transit. The box includes fifteen grey resin parts, plus a fret of PE that provides the bay surrounds where the individual panels were secured to the airframe. The lower wing is where most of the preparation is made, cutting out the panels on either side of the wing that are marked in grey on the instructions, while on the upper wing the three filler caps are drilled out to the correct size, one on each wing, one in the centre. After preparation, two circular resin parts that portray the filler cap and surround are glued together and inserted into each of the holes from below, and the flat cover panels are left free as they would be on removal by the maintainers. The lower wing has the rectangular bay areas inserted from within, filling the bays with the resin fuel tanks, which should allow the ribbing detail on the sides of the bays to remain visible from outside. The PE surrounds with fastening holes etched into them are glued to the perimeter of the bays, slightly below the level of the wing’s skin. The replacement resin panels will have been removed by the mechanics and either laid on the ground, propped against the aircraft or placed somewhere else convenient for later reinstallation. The extra detail will look good on your model and bring additional interest to the wing area, although they will be more obvious from above in a diorama situation with mechanics and other crew in the vicinity. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

IAF Mirage IIICJ Pilot & Female Ground Crew (F72387 Special Hobby etc.) 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby Israel was a long-term operator of the Mirage III, and Special Hobby have created a series of kits in 1:72 that depict many variants, including those used by the Israeli Air Force (IAF). Their figure sculptors have also been hard at work creating figures to go with these new kits, this set including both a pilot and female ground crew. This set arrives in Special Hobby’s yellow themed blister pack, with a header card and the instructions forming the slot-in back to the package, and holding the resin in place within the blister. The two figures inside are attached to their casting blocks by the soles of their shoes for minimal clean-up, plus a little fine flash between their legs, arms and other places where they will benefit from support during casting, especially the lady with her hands clasped behind her back, where they would have otherwise been the potential for bubble catchment areas. These fine areas of flash can be removed quickly and cleanly with a sharp blade, scraping or sanding away any residual flash until you are happy with the finish. The pilot is wearing a flying suit, boots and life vest, and is holding his helmet with mask and oxygen hose spilling over the edge, with both hands by his side, looking up and to one side as if admiring his aircraft or watching others from his squadron coming back in to land. The female ground crew operative is dressed smartly in a knee-length skirt and jacket, plus a cloth forage cap, and her hair pulled back into a short ponytail at the rear. Her hands are clasped behind her back as mentioned, and she is wearing a pair of low-heeled court shoes that might benefit from thinning of the soles to a more realistic height. Adding figures to a model or diorama brings that human scale to it, and these IAF crew are perfectly suited to the Mirage IIICJ in 1:72. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

A6M2 Zero Control Surface Correction Set (4464 for Academy) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby Academy released their new tooling of the Japanese Zero in 2022 as a Battle of Midway 80th Anniversary boxing, but the model’s control surfaces suffer a little from an overly deep representation of the ribbing, and have fixed elevators and rudder panel that can’t be posed deflected. This set arrives in Special Hobby’s yellow themed blister pack, with a header card and the instructions forming the slot-in back to the package, and holding the resin in place within the blister. There are seven parts in grey resin, all of which have separate casting blocks that are joined to the parts at the pivot-point that will be less visible if any mistakes are made. The elevators are drop-in replacements, but the elevators and rudder will require removal of the moulded-in flying surfaces from the kit parts before the new resin parts can be added. The instructions advise sanding a V-shaped bevelled edge on the cut lines to allow the rounded leading-edges of the flying surfaces to nestle closely to the hinge-points, which shouldn’t be too difficult, as the surfaces are all moulded as separate halves. A worthwhile upgrade to the realism of the model, doing away with the deep recesses in the kit flying services, which is particularly noticeable on the moulded-in rudder. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Bofors 40mm AA/AS Gun PT Boat Weapon Set #6 (N72044 for Revell) 1:72 CMK Navy Series by Special Hobby The American PT boat series were fast, agile and well-armed to deal with the Japanese enemy in the Pacific theatre for the most part. Revell’s kits of these famous sea-borne warriors are quite old now, so upgrades to the level of detail to modern standards is a worthwhile proposition. This set is number six of a growing series of sets that are now available for the basic kit, and it depicts the Bofors 40mm Anti-Aircraft cannon that saw extensive use both at sea and in the air during WWII, which was based upon a Swedish design that had been instigated as an improvement on previous Vickers designs. They were often seen mounted on the foredeck of PT boats on a substantial boxy installation, and the gun was used almost ubiquitously by WWII Allied Navies. The set arrives in a white cardboard box with a captive top flap and sticker showing the contents. Inside are three bags of parts, the traditional cast resin in grey, and the 3D printed parts in a bright orange colour. Additionally, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) provides more parts, and all this is protected by the instruction sheet and a few polystyrene foam peanuts to increase stability of the parts during transport and storage. The resin parts are attached to their casting and print bases in sensible locations to reduce clean-up work, and once the parts are liberated, they can be put to good use. Construction begins with the resin base, onto which the rotating floor and rear rails are added from the 3D parts, fitting PE foot rests and orange resin seats with PE backrests. A curved 3D profile is fixed to the rear of the floor, then the gun is built up based upon the breech, two of which are included, one for horizontal and one for elevated poses. Your choice of breech receives the barrel at the front, a resin ammo feeder that locates in a recess in the top of the breech, plus a PE twin ring-and-bead sight so that both crew members can sight the gun. It is mounted between two trunnions with PE elevation winder handles that should be glued in opposition to each other, adding twin elevation pistons under the front for the elevated option, and a curved resin part to the rear. The horizontal breech also has a choice of installing a covered ammo feeder instead of the open feeder that has rounds ready for firing. The base of the completed gun assembly is then plugged into a recess in the centre of the floor of the rotating portion to finish off, and a replacement stowage box has been included to improve details on the deck as a bonus. Markings There are no decals in the box, and no painting instructions are provided, as these will be found in the base Revell kit. Conclusion If your kit comes with a 40mm Bofors, this is a great way to upgrade the detail simply. If it doesn’t, you can install it on the front deck to add some individuality to your model. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Hurricane Mk.I/II Main Wheels 4-Spoke (Q32412 for Revell) 1:32 CMK by Special Hobby We reviewed Revell’s new large-scale Hurricane early this year here, and now we have some brand-new resin wheels from CMK. The Revell kit wheels are in two halves with separate hub, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, and have less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the hubs in this instance. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set has the same part count for the main wheels, but the tyres are cast as a single part with sidewall details and maker’s marks on the surface, and there are two separate hubs with a deep undercut dish at the rear to ease removal from their casting block. The outer hub is four-spoke with a separate resin roller in the centre, and has a cut-out on the rim for the valve, while the inner hub has concentric rings of ribs and bolts cast-in. The tail wheel is a single part rather than two, saving clean-up of seams. The wheels are attached to their casting block at the bottom where there is a flat-spot, so clean-up should be a breeze, and the weighting hasn’t been overdone. To build the main wheels, simply cut the parts free from their blocks, clean up, and glue the two hubs into their depressions, which have a key cast-in to ensure correct orientation. Resin wheels are a great way to increase detail and realism, and they also don’t break the bank. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

3D Printed Small Arms (P350012/14/15/16/19) 1:35 Special Hobby 3D Print Guns are a central component in any military engagement. They’re everywhere, especially where there’s fighting. Special Hobby have taken to printing many of their upgrade and detail sets in attractive orange resin, and the detail is phenomenal. They’re bringing out a range of small arms as part of their range, for use in dioramas, to increase the detail of figures, and as personal items in or around AFVs and softskins. Each set arrives in a clear bubble pack with a cardboard header and instruction sheet at the rear. The 3D printed parts are secured in foam inserts that are cut to suit their shape, and there are small Photo-Etch (PE) frets of brass separated from the resin by a piece of clear acrylic, adding straps and other small parts to the models. This collection of sets is spread over different eras of warfare, and should be chosen for their suitability to the models you are making, not just because they look great, although it is tempting. MG42 German WWII Machine Gun Early (P35012) The basis for many modern machine guns, the MG42 was a development of the MG34, intended to reduce the cost and increase ease of production as the war progressed away from Germany’s favour. Its formidable rate of fire garnered the nickname ‘Hitler’s buzz-saw’ amongst others. There are two of these guns on the printed base that also contains four drum magazines and a pair of bipods. The PE sheet contains slings and a length of spent link that is glued to the open breech opposite the magazine. M1 Bazooka (P35014) The word Bazooka has become the generic name for any shoulder-mounted rocket launcher in some circles, and it was reverse-engineered by the Germans from captured weapons at the beginning of WWII to become the more effective Panzerschreck. It utilised a shaped-charge to punch above its weight, and was rocket-propelled from the tube, with a limited range but the capability of penetrating more than 70mm of rolled homogenous armour in use at the time. The set includes the bazooka as one part, plus two rounds, one with a pointed M6 warhead that was a little prone to ricocheting, and the alternative domed warhead that was designed to reduce ricochets. An additional set of fins is included in case you wanted to portray one “up the spout” hanging out of the rear of the tube. A PE sling is also included to complete the package, and the detail on the weapon is excellent, including the frame around the rear of the tube, which is a dangerous place to stand behind, which usually led to a quick look behind before pulling the trigger that electrically launched the rocket. 3rd degree burns tend not to be popular with comrades. M1A1 Bazooka (P35015) The M1 Bazooka wasn’t perfect, so the engineers went back to the drawing board and improved it, working on the electrical systems, removing the blocky front handgrip, adding a blow-back diffusing ‘colander’ at the muzzle, and improving the rounds to achieve more kills. The revised Bazooka is printed as a single part, with two of the diffusers on the enlarged PE sheet with the sling, and a pair of conical grey resin jigs that are hidden in the rear to bend the part to the correct shape quickly and easily, taking all the worry out of the process. It would be good practice to anneal the part carefully over a flame to soften the brass, but being careful not to overdo it, as the part is etched to half thickness and could be melted or even burned away by too much heat. M18 57mm Recoilless Rifle (P35016) The M18 was a portable 57mm rifle that was designed during WWII and saw limited service at the very end of the war, going on to fight in the Korean and Vietnam wars before it was retired. It could penetrate around the same thickness of armour as the initial Bazooka rounds, and in Europe it was only capable of causing damage to vulnerable parts such as the turret ring, vision blocks, armour seams or running gear, unless the operator was able to get to the rear where the armour was thinner. In the Pacific however, it was a resounding success, as the Japanese tanks were lightly armoured and armed. The set includes three display options for this unusual weapon, the first being low to the ground, using the extending foregrip as a bipod, and the shoulder rest split in two to provide two more points of balance for the prone operator. The best mounting platform was the tripod from a Browning 1917 machine gun, which explains why I did a double-take when perusing the instructions. The weapon and breech are printed as a single part, the prone mount having the stands fitted as separate parts, along with the breech operation mechanism and sighting mechanism. The man-portable version can also be made by using different parts for the monopod/grip and shoulder pad, using the same parts for the breech and sight. The most impressive option is the tripod-mounted rifle, which involves trapping two printed parts between PE frames, adding an adjustment wheel and locking lever on one side, and the stud on the other, then mounting it on the three legs with the base in the centre, plus adjustment and locking levers from PE and resin. A PE strap is affixed to one leg to secure them for transport, then the rifle is built with breech mechanism, sight and foregrip, after which it is lowered onto the tripod locating it on a pin behind the foregrip. There are three of the 57mm rounds included on the print-base, which employed an ingenious method to reduce recoil to almost zero. The casing was perforated, with a protective plastic inner sleeve keeping the weather out and propellant in, plus a ring that has grooves machined into it to engage in the rifling, reducing friction and giving it a high muzzle velocity that increased penetration. For painting the rounds, just Google it, as there are plenty of pics around on the ‘net. AK-74MN Russian Assault Rifle Laminated Stock (P35019) This was the standard rifle with the Soviets and is still in service with their Russian Federation successors, plus many of their Allies, former satellite states and other customers. There are two rifles in a side-by-side protective printing base, and they are complete save for their slings, which can be found on the PE fret in the box. Conclusion 3D printing came of age after a surprisingly short gestation period, and it really shows in these weapons sets. Whichever one you choose for your next project, you won’t be disappointed, just remember to anneal the PE slings and straps carefully so they bend more naturally. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

German WWII Aircraft Maintenance Toolkit (5145 & P72006) 1:32 & 1:72 CMK by Special Hobby It’s no secret that aircraft are high-maintenance, much of it preventative because bailing out of an aircraft that has broken down is dangerous, and the resulting crash is expensive at the very least. Ground Crew are tasked with always keeping the aircraft in a state of readiness, or at least as much as humanly possible. Their toolkit is extensive, but a simple kit was the base for most repair or maintenance activities, resorting to the big tools when necessary. During WWII all sides had their toolkits, and this pair of sets depicts a typical German kit. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. German WWII Aircraft Maintenance Toolkit 1:32 (5145) This set includes five toolboxes, two of which are opened up to display the tools in their scissor-linked trays, with another open-topped box for which you’ll need to supply a piece of wire or rod to create the carry-handle. Two other boxes also need rod for their handles, as does the kettle, which is supplied in addition along with an oil can with precision applicator and a small rectangular can that completes the set. The two opened boxes have separate lids, and two of the other boxes have rounded resin handles, while all the tools are cast into the trays, with extreme detail and excellent definition that look highly realistic. German WWII Aircraft Maintenance Toolkit 1:72 (P72006) Containing the same elements as the larger set above, this set is instead directly 3D printed on two printing bases, with each toolbox complete apart from the lids that are printed vertically around the other parts. There is no need for any wire, as all the handles have been precision printed, even down to the kettle, which makes life a little easier. The parts are all attached to their bases by fine tendril-like supports, and due to the orange resin that is used this shouldn’t be a problem, as it combines strength with flexibility – two very desirable features when 3D printing. On my sample there were a couple of small depressions in the top of one of the closed boxes, but a little filler will solve that issue in short order. Conclusion A pair of highly-detailed sets that will add candid detail to any maintenance diorama or vignette in your chosen scale. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

SBD Dauntless Control Surfaces & Dinghy (4463 & 4462 for Acc.Min & Academy) 1:48 Special Hobby The Accurate Miniatures SBD Dauntless in 1:48 was originally tooled in the late 90s, and was well-received at the time, being well-detailed and researched. It has since been reboxed by many manufacturers, including Academy, Monogram and Revell, the latter seeing an outing as an SBD-5 in 2021, which we reviewed here. It’s still very much a modern-looking kit, despite its 25+ year history, but a few aspects could stand some upgrades. Special Hobby have created these two resin sets to assist in this manner. The sets arrive in Special Hobby’s yellow themed blister pack, with a header card and the instructions forming the slot-in back to the package, and holding the resin in place within the blister, whilst remaining visible to the prospective purchaser. Control Surfaces (4463) This set includes seven control surfaces on their own casting blocks, plus six small hinge parts on another block. The new flying surfaces include replacement ailerons for those that are moulded into the kit wings, new elevators and their stabilising fins, plus a new rudder panel to replace the moulded-in original. The detail on the new parts is substantially better than the originals, with crisp panel lines, raised ribs, a fine trim-tab actuator on the rudder, and rounded leading edges to add realism. The elevators are drop-in replacements that can be posed deflected once the small hinge-points are installed, while the rudder and ailerons need their locations clearing by cutting away the originals along the pivot-line. The instructions suggest thinning and bevelling the edges of the wing at the cut to allow the curved noses of the resin parts to fit snugly into position in a realistic manner. The rudder also needs two more hinge-points gluing to the kit fin, marking their location by using the rudder as a template. When complete, it should add extra detail and a more individual look to the model. Dinghy (4462) Consisting of four small parts, the set includes the cylindrical bay for the dinghy, a stowed dinghy pack that slots inside, and a choice of two styles of door, so when cutting away the round panel on the port side of the fuselage you don’t need to worry about keeping the styrene part in one piece. It’s worth noting that on many decal options this panel appears under where one of the fuselage markings will be, so it is wise to plan ahead, and it might also be a good idea to consider masks for the affected markings, so that matching the colour won’t be an issue. If you are careful however, you could cut the decal once you have placed it, and apply the cut-out section to the door, touching in any damage or blemishes that were likely to happen on the real aircraft around a bay that was often opened for checking by crew and maintainers. Conclusion These sets will make a good model better, and the increase in the detail will be noticeable to all but the most oblivious of viewers. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of