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  1. This one, I guess because it's a newer kit, was easier to get together than NL-ABH was. There was a bit of a bow to the upper section of the fuselage, but otherwise the interior and fuselage halves came together fairly readily. A little light sanding along the tops of the interior walls, and again I needed to separate the tail halves by a fraction of a millimetre to avoid a slight overhang in the fit of the top section. Aligning the two parts of the starboard fuselage needed a little dry fitting of the upper fuselage--the forward portion in particular wanted to pivot into a nose-dow
  2. I'm still eagerly awaiting my updated decals from Mika (we've had a lot of snow disruption to mail, locally), but in the meantime I was able to apply the very nice prop decals from the original Lima November sheet, which simulate the laminated Heine propeller. And here's a comparison with the prop disc I made earlier, for the in-flight model of LN-ABH:
  3. A quick check of the kit rudder size and proportions, using a bit of handwaving trigonometry. My photo of the kit parts was probably about 30 degrees off-perpendicular along the vertical of the photograph. The aeroplane in the photograph I posted above is rotated by maybe the same angle in the horizontal plane. Correcting for those distortions and superimposing a quick freehand outline, I get this: The new kit rudder is a little short horizontally, but it would be a fair undertaking to correct that. It's certainly less intrusive than the shape of the old rudder, which is p
  4. It's not a crack, fortunately, it's a flow line. There are a lot of them in both kits, and they seem to mark the lines along which flow coming from different directions has met up during the moulding process. In this case, plastic came into the mould from two different gates either side of the dark line. The plastic in this kit contains some sort of metallic silvering material, and it seems to produce these lines very readily. Anyway, it doesn't disturb the surface detail at all, despite appearances. When I get the chance later, I can post a "before and after primer" picture of the w
  5. I've pretty much finished detailing the interior for D 260, which will be visible through the open door. I carved about a millimetre and a half off the back of the rear seats, before attaching the back-rests--this nudges it far enough back so that it doesn't foul the door. Some photoetch lap-belts and bits and bobs of styrene and brass rod added for extra detail. In photographs of the real interior, the passenger lap-belts are often depicted stowed around the back of the bucket seats, which is what I've done here. For this version, I'm using a newer boxing of
  6. A little work in preparation for the open door on my rendition of D 260. I've sawed out the door section. Both doorway and door will need a little revision--a sliver off the door, top and bottom, and corresponding filler strips in the doorway. I've also filled the interior gaps around the kit windows, by larding on some filler and then sanding it level with the windows, then using progressive grades of wet-and-dry and scratch remover polish to render the windows transparent again. I've also put together a facsimile of the little gizmo mounted on the side of the airc
  7. Here's the content of the VooDooFx lighting bag. Two LED strips, one cool white, the other warm, to light the pod bay and bridge respectively. One tiny LED, to light a single EVA pod; six mid-size LEDs, for the engines; four large cool, and four large warm, white LEDs as alternatives to the LED strips if using batteries. A bunch of 220 ohm resistors, switch, battery clip, shrinkable insulation, and wires, including a long length to run along the metal spine of the model.
  8. Thanks. Magnets are great for in-flight models of aircraft with a flat underside near the CoG, like this one. I like being able to take them on and off the stand with the underside intact (though with the power of neodymium magnets clicking into place the paint can get a bit damaged if you do it too often). With a curved underside it gets a little tricky. I've had some success embedding a magnet inside a little cradle of modelling putty moulded to the underside of the aircraft.
  9. Master-X replacement ailerons are now on. They're a nice fit. A little light sanding to get them snug along their length, and one had a very slight vertical bow to it, which came out easily with a little hot water and some slight pressure. I also completely redid the boarding ladder, which I'd managed to dislodge--I'm more satisfied with the finish and the rung spacing on this one. Here's the fuselage, as complete as it will be before final assembly: It includes my interpretation of the rather informal-looking exhausts (styrene strip and rod)
  10. Yes, I don't know what the deal with Godzilla is. Yay! Monsters sells a variety of stuff, but none of it seems to be particularly monster-related. Here's what you get in the packet: So three transparent replacement parts to let you light up the engines, an EVA pod (arms in the unopened packet), and a pair of images intended to be pasted on to transparent sheet and illuminated.
  11. After watching the tracking info for this marked as "leaving USA" for seven weeks, this little package arrive in the UK in the wee hours of the morning a couple of days ago, and was with me the following day. I confess to being slightly daunted. I've never added internal lighting to a model before, and perhaps Moebius's Discovery kit isn't the best choice to start with.
  12. So the CoG of the fuselage is back around the wing trailing edge. I've done a bit of revision work on the exhausts, so photographs of that will follow. But with the weight of the wings and floats towards the leading edge, it means I won't be too far off the CoG of the entire aircraft if I plonk the internal magnet right in the middle of the wing assembly. Here it is, in a little puddle of epoxy: Easily within the footprint of the stand, as you'll see. You'll also see I've slightly displaced my boarding ladder during handling, so I'll need to attend to that. The wings came toget
  13. That's a very nice idea--an extension of the paint-demarcation decal provided with the kit. I've filed it away for future use, thanks! It's certainly an aircraft with a story to tell. I first heard about Gidsken Jakobsen and her Junkers F13W one afternoon at the Norwegian Museum of Travel and Tourism in Balestrand, where they have a nice little cinema that shows a documentary film about her. I'd ordered the Revell kit within an hour of getting back to our hotel. Then discovering that the same aircraft had also been involved in the exploration of Svalbard, one of my favourite places
  14. Mine seems to be fine. The top section was slightly bowed, as with all the other big parts, but a nice neat fit. There was a slight overhang of a fraction of a millimetre either side at the tail, which I picked up before gluing. I just needed to pop the glue between the two fuselage halves at the tail, and let them sit very slightly ajar while I glued the top section tail neatly in place. Then I reclosed the underside of the tail, where the left and right sections meet, under slight tension. The tiny remaining gap in the midline at rear will be completely covered by the rudder. Photograph
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