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  1. Yes, that aircraft always looked to me as if someone had been kitbashing with real aircraft parts. The model looks great.
  2. Thank you. Not to everyone's taste, I find, but I prefer uniform discs to the "blurred blades" effect, which reproduces what we see in photographs, but is less representative of what we see real life. (Yes, I know there's irony in my showing photographs of the final result!) I try to get the colour profile, spinner to tip, as realistic as possible by doing a bit of mathematics using measurements of the kit propeller to produce an appropriate transparency gradient. If anyone's interested, I wrote a little description of how I do it on my blog: https://oikofuge.com/how-to-model-rotating-propeller-discs/ I use an inkjet printer and overhead transparency sheets--laser printers unfortunately bake in a curve that's almost impossible to flatten. In the past, I've printed the discs as decals, and applied them to slightly thicker transparent plastic discs, which works pretty well, too.
  3. Thanks. It's a display base from a UK company called Coastal Kits.
  4. Thanks. Here it is in uniform: Started out with the RAF as AQ-Z, in Air-Sea Rescue. Grierson describes the refitting for the Antarctic as being so extensive they were effectively new aircraft.
  5. Thanks. That was Hannant's Xtracrylix Trainer Yellow, with Tamiya thinner, over a coat of light grey primer. It went on nicely. Here it is after I glossed it up for the decals. I'd certainly use it again.
  6. Thanks. If I make another one of these, I'll position the magnet slightly farther back. The step seemed like the obvious place to tuck the magnetic cradle, but the rake on the wings actually moves the CoG surprisingly far back. I originally had a little felt pad on my cradle, but had to remove it because the extra distance weakened the magnetic attraction just enough for the whole aircraft to be able to tip backwards on the stand.
  7. Thanks very much, but I can't take credit for the display base. Once again, I've posted a completed build and forgotten to give credit to Coastal Kits---I own several of their bases, and they're all excellent.
  8. Thanks. I'm also interested in whaling, and have now discovered an interest in John Grierson, who led an interesting life and wrote several books about it. Unfortunately, Goodreads have associated Air Whaler with the wrong John Grierson, and I've so far been unable to persuade them to change their records. I'm glad you found the sources interesting.
  9. Oops. Forgot to take any more build photos. The Ready For Inspection thread is now open:
  10. This the old Matchbox kit, reissued by Revell. I'm using it as a basis for a model of an unusual Walrus---one of two that were carried by the S.S. Balaena factory ship during the whaling season of 1946-7. They could be catapult-launched, or lowered into the sea for a conventional water take-off. They were used to gather information about approaching weather, about the ice conditions, and to spot whales. (No-one had ever used an aircraft for whale-spotting at that time, and there was significant doubt among the whalers that it was even possible to see a submerged whale from the air.) John Grierson, who was in charge of the aircraft, left details of the adventure in his book Air Whaler (1949), a lecture to the Royal Geographical Society entitled Whaling From The Air, and an article in Flight magazine entitle Air-Whaling. So the aircraft are fairly well documented. In fact, a total of four Walruses were originally purchased and equipped for the Antarctic, registrations G-AHFL, G-AHFM, G-AHFN and G-AHFO. Grierson won the 1946 Folkestone Aero Trophy race in G-AHFN, but it then never left England. G-AHFM, christened "Moby Dick", got as far as South Africa and was then left behind---the hangar on Balaena could only accommodate two aircraft, and a third would need to be "parked" on the catapult, making aircraft handling and maintenance excessively complicated. But G-AHFL "Boojum" and G-AHFO "Snark" made it to the Southern Ocean and logged 96 hours flying there. I've modelled "Boojum": For a while Boojum flew without its undercarriage, and I considered modelling it in that mode, but ended up just not liking the look of it: The hook under the nose was characteristic of these aircraft, used for what was called a "mat recovery". Still under way, the Balaena would tow a net over the side, and the aircraft would motor up on to the net and cut power, snagging the net. Here's the model: The propeller discs I designed and printed myself---a tricky one, given that the four-bladed prop is actually two two-bladed props, so I needed to make two parallel transparent discs to get the correct effect. The base is magnetic--a scratch-built cradle that fits behind the underside step, and an old Airfix base. The major mods are the grab-rail around the nose, which I built from 0.5mm brass rod, and the "free" tailwheel, pieced together from bits of styrene and brass (the kit includes only the conventional tailwheel, with its rudder shroud and the oleo compressed). Minor stuff includes the rigging (monofilament), the nose hook (brass), the towing eyes (styrene), rear hatch rails (styrene), the various ropes and shackles (stretched sprue), the aerial supports (brass) and aerial wires (monofilament). I opened the observer's windows (the kit has them closed and represented by black rectangular decals), drilled out the front of the nacelle, added the spray fairing on the starboard side (the kit models this only on the port), removed the supenumerary thermometer housing the kit has placed on the starboard side, closed the rear hatch, added some styrene to its front end to model its real shape, and opened its small windows. There was also a bit of reshuffling of the interior, which doesn't show up in the photographs. The kit came together pretty well, despite an error in the Revell instructions which has one of the nacelle strut parts the wrong way around. I used a JBOT decal sheet as a basis for the markings, but ended up using only a couple of decals off the original JBOT sheet, and added most of the markings from a revised sheet I printed myself. More about those two problems in the WIP: I'm annoyed with my weathering, which is pretty slight generally, but I took a notion to a bit of salt spray around the nose, and I now find it more ugly and distracting than realistic. <Sigh.>
  11. And rigged: I've painted the lines in situ with a brush loaded with Tamiya flat aluminium acrylic, which I tested on the monofilament before I started. A slight tendency to bead, but a couple of brush-strokes seemed to spread it fairly evenly. I think I might need to touch up a couple of spots where the paint is thin, but overall it seems to look OK.
  12. I meant to mention that I painted the underwing wheel bays (the discs of flat aluminium paint visible in the post above) because I haven't decided whether or not to model this aircraft with its undercarriage removed. "Boojum" and "Snark" did fly with no undercarriage for a period while in the Southern Ocean, although I've also posted photographs that show them flying with raised undercarriage. So I have a free choice. Here's "Boojum" on the crane, sans undercarriage. I haven't been able to glean what function those underwing pods fulfilled from John Grierson's memoir of the voyage, Air Whaler. Also visible above is the hook under the nose, which characterized these aircraft. This was used for a "mat pickup", in which the aircraft motored up on to a net being towed alongside the Balaena, and was then hoisted aboard. As you can see above, I've yet to add this feature to my model, and I forgot to drill a locating hole for the 0.5mm rod I'll be using. (I did remember to make three holes for the radio aerial supports on the wings and tail, though.) I'll get to those bits of detailing once I'm sure I won't be knocking them off again!
  13. So far so good. The lower wing went on fairly easily. I epoxied up the locating tabs, glued the interplane struts into the upper wing with "Powerflex" CA, which is a little mobile for a while before it sets, and then positioned the lower wing. I was then able to nudge the lower ends of the struts into their pre-glued locating holes without smearing glue everywhere. A quick check that everything that needed to be square was square, and then left overnight. Now ready for rigging, and then I'll close over the lower sections of the lower wings.
  14. Thanks for the kind words. Upper wings going on now. I know some people use elaborate jigs to get the wings positioned precisely, and I often wish I had one, but in the meantime I find that if you have enough little pots in enough different sizes, you can come up with something. The critical point for this one was the discovery that I could level the fuselage by using the shoulders of two Tamiya pots to hold the tailplanes level: Then it was just a matter of using slowing drying epoxy and nudging around a some more little pots: Made easier by the fact the dihedral on the upper wings is zero degrees, of course. (The little bits of tape are controlling invisible skeins of monofilament.) Once that's dried overnight, I'll turn it upside down and try to come up with a way of getting the lower wings in position while simultaneously locating three interplane struts per side.
  15. I think I wrote a bit about it in the WIP (just to give you a third tab). For the wings, I scanned the plans, resized to fit, and then sketched the decal designs in my old Paintshop Pro ("millennium edition"!). For the nacelle, I measured its circumference at several points, then designed several decal "gores" that I could assemble together to produce the feather effects. (I'm pretty sure the flying model had a different nacelle paintjob from the full-size version, which wasn't a great help.) Then, as you say, printed on decal paper--I can't remember whether that was before or after I switched from inkjet to laser. Anyway, apologies to @NorbertBu. I didn't mean to hijack his thread, but I got over-excited when I encountered someone who'd actually seen Slipstream!
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