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  1. I found this in the stash and thought it ideal for this GB as well as another attempt at stash reduction. It's been sitting in a box for quite a long time. Two small green sprues with the upper and lower hull. Classic Airfix moulding but little flash, though I suspect there will be a little bit of cleaning up along the way. Classic Airfix instructions on one page and colour call outs for a single tank. And a tiny transfer sheet.
  2. Hello to all. This is my latest finished model.The Zvezda MiG-31.I have installed the Extratech Pe in the cockpit and added a pair of Resin K-36 seats.The rest is oob.I painted the kit in gunze and tamiya acryclis.The decals came from the spares box. Regards,Dragan
  3. This seems like an opportune time to open this box : Will start off with the Shar, and if time permits make a start on the Wessex.
  4. Hello to all of you guys and girls present you my Italeri/Zvezda MiG-27K.I added a replacement KM-1M seat, eduard Pe in the cockpit. Rescribed all of the panel lines. Riveted the whole kit. Added some replacement parts like the IC flare dispensers and the front wheels. Used some spare decals and painted the kit in Gunze and Tamiya paints to paint it. I have also made a YouTube video that you can watch on my YouTube channel DOCTORMIG.
  5. Hi guys. I started a new project a few days ago... It will become a Ukrainian Army Aviation Mi-24PU2. I started with the cockpit parts which were painted black. When the Ukrainian Mi-24s where upgraded to Mi-24PUs2 standard they got a new cockpit which give them night flight suitability. For the first time I got me some Quinta Studio decals. This set is for the M-24V and provides the needed black layout for my project. Applying them is very easy and worked very well from the beginning. Cut them out like normal decals, dip them into warm water for a few seconds and slide them to the plastic parts. Different to normal decals, the Quinta Studios 3D decals need an adhesive. Quinta recommends any PVA based glue, clear coat like Tamiya x-22 or cyanoacrylate glue. I used Micro Kristal Klear and it worked very well. The WSOs instrument panel is different in Mi-24V and Mi-24P so I had to use the kit decals here. In my opinion the seatbelts looks way better in vinyl than their etched counterparts from Eduard & Co. Regards Daniel
  6. With two in the gallery another almost finished and a fourth on the way, I thought it worth breaking out another one. This time it's an early Revell, but still Matchbox branded Westland Wessex. It's been in the stash a long time and as can be seen it was an absolute bargain, even when I got it. The kit is on three grey plastic sprues which do have a fair amount of flash and mould lines on them but nothing that can't be dealt with. There are alternative parts, mainly the nose and exhausts for a Royal Navy HU5 or a Royal Australian Navy HAS 31. Single clear sprue with the parts shaped OK but a little on the thick side, albeit reasonably clear. A single massive sheet of instructions and colour call outs and transfers for both versions. The transfers look OK albeit not quite up to modern best standards. I have however, used these Matchbox/Revell transfers from this time and they generally work fine. I do have sufficient in the stash, as well as a couple of Italeri Wessex's I can raid if need be. I'll be building the HU5 as I like the colour scheme which is a bit different from most FAA schemes.
  7. Back in April 2020 I started building an old tool Airfix Stirling Mk III. Progress was made for a number of months and then I lost interest. Interest rekindled, work restarted in Dec 22 and I finally think it's finished. Aftermarket was restricted to some etch intended for the Italeri beast, DK decals and some internet-purchased Paragon engines and coals intended for a Lanc Mk II. I also used parts from the new tool Airfix Lanc to improve the kit turrets. Apart from that, the major ingredients were filler, sprue goop and styrene sheet n' rod. Build thread here: Excuse the cr*ppy glamour shots.
  8. Next off the shelf is the very old (maybe original?) boxing of the Hasegawa P-2H Neptune. I've washed the sprues and resin bits. Here they are drying amongst the Scout WIP. Soon to be joined by the Eduard bomb bay and general detail kits, the Aeroclub props and landing gear and PD Decals, amongst others. Not too many plastic parts but heaps of resin and etch. Lots of rescribing to do as everything is raised detail. I'll paint everything this week when the wife goes back to work as she hates the smell of enamel paint through the house!
  9. I present you my 1:72 AMK L-29 Delfin of the Georgian Air Force. I really enjoyed this one.Not the best of fit I have seen but nothing to bad that an average modeler cant handle. I added my own seatbelts and gunsight to the cockpit. The rest is oob.I painted the model with gunze and tamiya paints. The decals used are Linden hill Georgian air force.I also made a youtube video of the whole buidl process and you can see that one on my channel by clicking on the link DOCTORMIG.
  10. Hello lads, And Now for Something Completely Different ... you can check my latest model - small agricultural plane Z-37A Cmelak from Eduard. It's very nice little plane that everyone can build between Spit or F-16, detail level is very satisfying and even without any aftermarkets it will look outstanding straight OOB. Although in this build I used brassins from Eduard, but as I said above they aren't necessary. If you interested how I make it step by step, you can check the build here https://www.kfs-miniatures.com/1-72-z-37a-cmelak-budowa-cz-1/ and painting here: https://www.kfs-miniatures.com/1-72-z-37a-cmelak-budowa-cz-2/ Hope you will like it.
  11. Arma Hobbies 1:72 Yak-1b In the famous markings of Lydia Litvyak (The white rose of Stalingrad) 73 GIAP This is for the Interesting Modelling Cos, Arma April and taking exactly a week to finish (being off work with covid didnt hurt) it was just a great little build all round. This is the base kit so no etch or masks but you do get a canopy mask template on the instructions to cut around. Painted in Tamiya colours, eyeballed AMT-4, AMT-7 and Nato Black for the Night Black. Weathered in oils, enamels and a bit of pigment. Would recommend it and no doubt any of Armas stable as a perfect pallet cleanser after a long or tough build. Cheers.
  12. While waiting to see if my Rolls Royce Armoured Car is big enough I have decided to start with this one. The AS 90 is big, with a big gun (155 mm) and was made in Britain, by Vickers in Barrow in Furnace, for the British Army. They are still in service. I picked up this kit some years ago on a visit to the Tank Museum in Bovington and it's sat in the stash since. Nice sprues, six of them in a grey plastic, with crisp detail and minimal flash. There are three large parts for the hull and turret separate. The instructions are nice and clear but no colour call outs but as there isn't much in the way of none base colour parts that should be fine. Transfers and colour scheme for a couple of tanks but there are loads of number plates for variety. Colours given as Gunze so will have to look up and see if I've got a decent match in the stash.
  13. Hi all, here comes the Valom 1/72 Dassault Ouragan in Israeli markings. The kit is a typical short-run kit. The fit was not perfect and some filling and sanding was needed, but the surface detail is quiet nice with well-defined, sharp panel lines. The kit actually comes covered with fine rivets which I filled with Mr. Surfacer since I don't like the effect. This is certainly a matter of taste. I was less satisfied with the tricky assembly of the cockpit and intake area especially because the instructions are very vague with regard to the exact position of the parts. The only things I modified were the underwing pylons which were changed to the configuration used at the very end of the Ouragan's career. I used the kit's decals with some additions from the spare box. In the background on some of the photos, you can see the Ouragan's younger brother, the Super Mystère. To add some interest, the Super Mystère is in the old camouflage and the Ouragan in the newer post-1967 scheme. All comments welcome!
  14. Dropped the whole model building hobby for five weeks, being seriously addicted to following heroic but sad news from . Slava Ukraini! Had time to re-think my approach to building them American bombers too. Something bugs me in having to somehow hack and slash everyone of my builds, even though the oob kits would be good enough. Hey, first de-staggering an Airfix kit and then staggering a Revell kit waist made our son ask me what's the point? Indeed. So I took a break from them. I did some shopping, though, and used the gift card got from dear Mrs.V-P to a hobby shop to buy two more ICM Dorniers and something from ... yes I took them all home from the PO today, had a look at them, and then decided to go quickly back to my workbench with the big Heinkel! I'm now on page 2 of the actual assembly instructions, having cemented 20 little cockpit parts together. I will not take or show pics of them, though, before I brush mouse gray paint all over it. I think I'm back, my friends, this will be a nice three week push before the Dorniers GB begins! V-P
  15. As the vehicles near completion I'll weigh in with another kit from the stash. This time it's the Curtiss Helldiver. Although a three colour kit and certainly Matchbox branded I think it hails from the beginning of the Revell period. Three sprues in multicolour. Overall the moulding is fairly crisp and flash free although there's a small number of ejection marks and, I think, a small depression on one of the prop blades. Interior detail is limited, seat, of sorts, for the pilot and a, rather aneamic looking, gun for the radio op/gunner. Two clear canopies with well defined frames. Still has the Lesley branding. Transfers for two US Navy options and colours on the rear of the box. I won't be using these but going for one of the Fleet Air Arm aircraft of 1820 NAS. Ishould be able to get transfers from an Xtradecal sheet in the stash. Old style Matchbox instructions on a single fold out sheet.
  16. Hello to all.I have finished this kit last week.It is the old 1:72 italeri MB-326K. I really like the kit.It is easy to work with.I have rescribed the panels and riveted some of the airframe in a couople of places just to make it look nicer.A resin martin baker seat was added and I made a new gunsight.The painting is done with Hataka Lacquers.I quite like those paints and will buy some more in the future for sure.I have also made a youtube video that you can watch on my channel DOCTORMIG REGARDS,DRAGAN
  17. Hello to all.I have just finished this mirage 2000 H of the Indian air force.I opted for this rare camo because you dont see a mirage 2000 painted like this everyday.I also made a youtube video that you can watch on my youtube channel DOCTORMIG.The kit has been upgraded with the addition of rivets all over the airframe,a new pittotube that I made from a needle and a resin Mk-10 ejection seat.I have painted the model in gunze and tamiya acrylics.Thevarnishes are AK and vallejo.
  18. Chengdu J-20 5th generation prototype fighter. Tried recreating the paint and weathering basing on scarce photos available on the net.
  19. F-15E Strike Eagle from Hasegawa kit, enhanced with Eduard PE and resin seats and exhausts by Aires. Asymmetric loadout has been used during Operation Iraqi Freedom.
  20. Another one for my Falklands collection - 1:72 Westland Lynx Mk.23, Argentine Navy, Falkland Islands, April 1982. Slightly converted Hobby Boss Lynx HAS.2 kit with Eduard PE parts and some scratch details. Decals are mix of DP Casper, Xtradecal, HB and spares. Thanks for watching!
  21. This is a placeholder for my first build in this GB. I hope to start it by tomorrow. I had originally planned to build jt in 2020 for the "Kit you built as a kid" GB, but COVID-19 travel restrictions prevented that. I first built this kit on Christmas Day 1978, some time in the early evening. This had the original artwork, describing how ZG 26 was "bounced" by Mustangs, suffering terminal losses. I am building a re-release from the late 1980s, with the same box-art as on an earlier re-release. I bought this in 1990, probably late in the year. I can't remember if Swastikas were included when I first built the kit, but by the late 1980s, they were definitely verboten. I will have to dig into my after market sheet.
  22. Latest completion, my attempt at the ACE Models Saladin Mk 2, painted to represent a vehicle with the 1st Queen’s Dragoon Guards in Aden, 1966 (the same time my dad was serving there with the RAMC). Brush painted with Vallejo and Tamiya Acrylics, pretty much out of the box except for the turret searchlight (a modified headlamp left over from a build of the Roden Rolls Royce armoured car), and a bit of wire mesh over the rear engine deck. A bit fiddly in places (which can’t now be seen), but pretty happy with how it turned out. Build thread can be found here:
  23. For this, my first group build, I'm going to build the 1:72 Eduard models MiG-21MF in Indian Air Force colours. I've got the Bunny Fighter Club version of the kit, BFC094, which comes with some extra resin and photoetched parts, but otherwise looks much like the Eduard MiG-21MF Interceptor Profipack (70141) reviewed here: I'm basing this on a couple of images of C1500, which is aluminium with red and white stripes on the tail. Source: https://www.bharat-rakshak.com/IAF/Galleries/Aircraft/Vintage/Fighters/MiG21M/MiG-21r.jpg.html I want to try a couple of things for this build: firstly I'm relatively new to airbrushing and want to use this to try out the AK xtreme metal paints (although I've got chrome rather than aluminium - hopefully the difference won't be too huge!); the other thing I want to try (and this may be a non-starter, I would welcome any thoughts) is laser printing tail stripes as a decal using a sheet of Clear Laser from TransOurDream Tru-Waterslide Decal Paper. Other markings will be from the box or from Caracal Models markings (CD48156) for an Indian Dassault Rafale, which were the closest I could find. I've started on the decal - to work out the size I need to print I'm using the following steps: - tape the fuselage halves and tail together - press kitchen foil onto the tail to get a sense for how much longer the shape will need to be to account for the curvature of the body - mark the foil, smooth it out and then cut out the foil shape - scan the foil shape and import into MS Word - trace the outline with line segment to get an outline - overlay this on a scan of the instructions, and resize this image to scale - clean up the image to merge the best of both of these images - add red and white lines Hopefully I'm doing this right!
  24. This is the old ICM mould of the MiG-25PD.I added a resin cockpit and the rest is OOB.The model is painted with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics.The decals came from begemot. Regards,Dragan
  25. This one will be a birthday present for our son, 22 years in late February, and an Ilmavoimat reserve Hornet armourer. I'll build the HN out of the Academy box but "MLU-update" the weapons from my spares - AIM-9X:s, AIM-120C:s, a Litening-pod and a pair of JDAM:s should look nice. Finnish Hornets were originally "just" F-18C/D:s without any A2G capability. That was very much changed in the MLU-program, and they now possess capability to carry and deploy JSOW and JASSM too (but I only have JDAM:s). My son said he often got to work on HN-457, the last Hornet built in Finland and then delivered to Ilmavoimat. The plane was named "Kreivi (Count Eric) von Rosen" honouring the Swedish nobleman who donated the first aircraft to our young - infant, infact - nation and its air force in March 1918. I know that specific plane is too much modeled one but I don´t think Olli knows that . V-P
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