Search the Community

Hi there, One you don't see made up very often. Was mooching round a local Hobbycraft the other day and saw this one on the shelf for not too much money. It's a great little kit, not many parts to deal with and builds up very quickly. Anyway, enough talking; Used Model Air RLM76 Acrylic and WEM RLM70 Enamel. Humbrol 67 for the trailer.

Gday All, for what will probably be my final build for the year (if I dont finish that Dragon Opel Blitz on the bench) and the second half of my Boston double build I present my Italeri Boston finished as a strafer from 22 SQN RAAF Did you really think I was just going to do a RAF one Tony O Toole? Kit is the standard Italeri/AMT A-20B/C kit with redroo tropical cowlings and decals. The cowlings fit like a glove, msot impressive, unfortunately the decals were impervious to any and all setting solutions used and refused to sit down into the panel lines. I wish I had of masked the roundels, however I thought the redroo decals were spot on for clolour to match faded RAAF decals, and their decal instructions are second to none. This is one of thoswe builds that did not turn out as well as I thought it would, the boston is a nice kit but the landing gear and door attachment leave a lot to be desired and are literally the weakest parts of the kit. Macine gun barrels, (which need to be bent back up, I notice are from Vector for the 50's and Master Barrel for the .30's. If you have not used these two brands before, do so, they really add to the final look. Finished with Humbrol enamels and weathered using various shades of same. I tried the oil dot technique, the lesson I learnt here was do your panel line wash first!! Still undecided on the value of this technique. For those wondering what I am talking about, it involves dabbing tiny dots of various colours of oil paint all over the model, then scrubbing them into the paintwork to subtly alter the tones of the paintwork Anyway, on to the pics

As Hannants with the 1/48th Blenheim Mk.I/IF (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965380-classic-airframes-blenheim-mk-11f-hannants/), Special Hobby is to re-release the old Classic Airframes 1/48th Supermarine Walrus Mk.I kit in several limited editions. Source: http://www.mpmkits.com/en/1/1-1-6/8/ - Ref.SH48161 - 1/48 Walrus Mk. I Early Warriors source: http://www.mpmkits.com/en/1/1-1-6/1-48-walrus-mk-i-early-wariors.html - Ref.SH48162 - 1/48 Walrus Mk. I Battleships Eyes source: http://www.mpmkits.com/en/1/1-1-6/1-48-walrus-mk-i-battleships-eyes.html - Ref.SH48163 - 1/48 Walrus Mk. I Air Sea Rescue source: http://www.mpmkits.com/en/1/1-1-6/1-48-walrus-mk-i-air-sea-rescue.html V.P.

Hi All Time to join the GBs rather than watch from the sidelines, this one will be OOB. I'm also joining the KUTA & Bomber Command GBs, if I finish the 3 it will be a blooming miracle ! Cheers Pat

Source: https://www.facebook.com/Kineticmodel IAI Kfir C.1/F-21A - ref.48083 V.P.

Aeropoxy is working on a 1/48th Sukhoï Su-49 trainer resin kit. Source: http://aeropoxy.wordpress.com/2014/01/09/new-aeropoxy-releases-2014/ Sukhoi SU-49 , 1/48 scale Russian primary trainer project V.P.

Woohoo here we go!!! Ok after such a long wait it has finally come…………and it’ll be a few weeks before I can start!! Ok I decided to go with something nice and easy…….then I found this, the Czech AF Mig-21MF s/n 7701 in “Splinter Camouflage”, something nice and simple! Copyrighted material removed photo courtesy of Airlines.net Ok the base model will be a 1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF, I have a choice of two, but will be using the ProfiPACK one for this build….have plans for the other one! Lots of nice bit inside, Eduard was even nice enough to give me two complete sets of PE bits! What lovely people!! Not too sure if I’ll through extra bits at this one or not, have a few weeks to decide before I even get a chance to play with it. The camouflage is the big part of this build and I have a choice of either the sort of easy path and use the Syh@rt decals……..can imagine how much fun that will be!! Or go hard core and use the Model-CZ masks, a lot of work but mistakes can be corrected….just have to make sure everything is in the correct place! Or a combo of the two……..not too sure about that, for sure I won’t be able to get the colours to match. Anyway am sooo looking forward to this one, though I still have to wait for 3 more weeks till I get back home!

Im looking for a new model that is not too hard i have been looking at the airfix supermarine spitfire mkvb (new tooled) and thats my likely victim i want a model that doesnt need filler and i would like it to be above 165 cm long

A couple of years ago I picked up a 1/48 IdolMaster F-2A by Hasegawa to do for my niece. The WIP is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234943817-how-to-build-an-f-2a-and-lose-your-mancard/and the RFI is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234944706-how-to-build-an-f2-a-and-lose-your-mancard-is-finished/. It was quite enjoyable although very detailed regarding the decal scheme. I was following a link on Britmodeller the other day that took me to HLJ website. Since I was there, might as well cruise it (addicted people will take any excuse to use!) Lo and behold, HLJ had all of the IdolMaster kits on sale. I was weak, I was not strong; I was very bad. I got this kit, the Hasegawa 1/48 F-22 Raptor in the IdolMaster scheme. I also somehow ordered all of these: So, my purchases of Micro Sol and Set will be going up exponentially due to these kits. The main appeal for me is the decal schemes; they are very decal intense. Here are the instructions. As you can see in the instructions, there are quite a few decals that have to be applied and in a certain order (that is never described in the instructions mind you) as some overlap others. The decal sheets are quite large, about 14 inches long. The parameters of the build are to get it done reasonably well, but the main focus is the end scheme of the plane. Obviously, I am not trying to get as accurate as I can F-22 Raptor. This is an anime portrayal of an actual aircraft, not the aircraft itself. With that said, upon opening the box, I am greeted with some lovely shades of plastic. I have standard Hasegawa grey sprues, a very dark black/grey sprue, and multiple sprues with a fetching shade of hot pink. (I can’t wait to go to the LHS to try and match this color. They are used to me getting the drab WWII camo colors. Guess I will tell them I am doing a flaming PR spitfire!) Since this is Hasegawa’s regular F-22 kit, the build starts with the cockpit. After freeing the parts I have a wonderful hue of plastic colors to work with. And all the parts are assembled to dry and await a very dull black base color. As the main cockpit dries, I begin work on the instrument panel and the six decals it gets. After a few doses of setting solution, the decals snuggle into place. Next up a base application of NATO black over the entire cockpit. When the base coat dries, a drybrushing of metallic silver helps to bring out detail and give a little life back to the cockpit. I have not decided if the canopy will be open or closed. If it is closed, not a whole lot will be visible in the cockpit. With such a dark base color, even with the canopy open, not a lot will be visible. Next up the main weapons bay. There are 3 bays, the main, the port and the starboard. I have already decided I will not have the side bays open. I am still debating about the main bay, so I will build that up. The main bay is put together All that is left is the six weapon racks that have to be made up. One down, five to go. And all of the weapon racks installed. The nose wheel bay is next to be built up. Here is where I am at a loss. If you look at the detail molded into the weapon bay pictures above and the main wheel bay to come, there is some fairly nice detail to the parts. For the nose bay, nothing except the one part that is attached at the end of the bay. Now maybe the actual aircraft has nothing in the bay, but I kinda doubt it. I just am at a loss as to why Hasegawa would put such effort into making the detail in the weapon bays and main wheel bay, but nothing for the nose wheel. The two side bays are removed from the sprues (great detail). And the main weapon bay, side bays and nose wheel bay are inserted into the bottom fuselage section. Finally, a rubber gasket is held in place by this round plastic cap allowing the nose wheel to be removed. A very nice touch when it will get down to painting and decaling. (In fact, after looking ahead in the instructions, all of the wheels are designed to be removable. That will be very helpful. Next up is the main wheel bay. There are four different sub-assemblies that are inserted into the fuselage. I have built those up. These are off to get a coat of white before I install them. On a side note, being the ham fisted builder I am, I frequently send small parts sailing far away from where I want them to go. I may not be too thrilled about the hot pink plastic, but it is great when having to search for lost parts!! I haven’t lost a single little small part even though I have dropped several very tiny parts. Apparently, the carpet monster does not like pink. And this is where I stop today. As always comment welcome.

G`day Chaps: I`m trying to convince my Loved One (and myself) that I`m still a modeller and not a collector, So here you have it, the second model I finish this year! JU-88G-6 1/48 Dragon. I bought this kit partially build on Trademe (local ebay) at a good price, It was painted with Vallejo and weathered with dry pastels. It has been a model of firsts, as I had never done a mottling before (need more practise) and had never tried dry pastels. Very nice kit. The only problem I had were the decals, they disintegrated so I had a go at DIY decals (need more practice too). Hope you like it. 7 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr 1 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr 2 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr 3 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr 5 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr 4 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr 6 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr 8 by adrianmunozm, on Flickr Adrian

So this is my first shooty-drivy thing that wasn't a little 1/72 Plastic Soldier Company tank Apologies for the rather shoddy photographs, the light is a bit naff here at night. I'll pop some better ones up tomorrow. Although it has revealed a few bits that need touching up at the rear. All together though it was a nice learning curve (hate tracks though) and probably gave me a kick to finish off the Jackal, Coyote and the Lynx. Although I did just buy a Revell Panzer 35t (it's my ride on World of Tanks) and the 1/32 Phantom. Thanks for looking

Hi all, some F-8s and a few 72nds... Brian.

Hello All, WIP number two... painted, decalled, pin washed, chipped, filtered and ready for oils..... 250/10 from Culvers pz colours vol 1 Thanks for looking and happy to answer questions. Happy modelling Ian

Hi, hope you don't mind me joining this GB? Had this in the stash for some time, this seems a good reason to drag it out and get it built! Looks relatively straight forward, could do with some aftermarket decals if anyone knows where I may obtain any (Hannants are out of stock). Any tips appreciated! Cheers FF

Hello All, WIP of the interior prior to permanently closing up. Will be converted to a Afrika Korps 250/10 so don't take too much notice of the Panzer grey finish as it will be a base for some hairspray technique 'action' .... (fingers crossed on that)! Happy Modelling, Ian

This is another kit falling victim to my new found battle to eliminate my shelves of doom; kits started, but just never quite finished for one reason or another. It is the HobbyCraft 1/48 Bf 109-C. I found this box, opened it up and discovered it was painted, decaled and just missing the miscellaneous parts that need to be put on at the end of the build. Why I didn’t complete it is a mystery to me. I am not even sure when I started this kit. Apparently, I bought the HobbyCraft kit so I could use Cutting Edge decals for a Bf 109 D-1. Maybe I thought it didn’t look like a D model, but in doing some research, I frankly can’t tell the difference between a C model and a D model in pictures. Anyway, here it is, off of the shelf of doom. It was not the best model as far as detail and fit goes, but I like the scheme and different nose of the C/D model. Now the landing gear has already collapsed once due to the dodgy attachment. Hopefully, with the super glue and metal reinforcements, it will stay on its feet. As always, all comments welcome.

Hi guys here is a Heinkel He 111 H22 from Revell Monogram. It's in 1/48 scale and hase new prop's (RBS), a big edition set from eduard and self made exhausts. It is a nice kit to build. Here is the building thread. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234967990-heinkel-he-111-h22-update-19-10-2014-and-finished/ It was made for a friend of mine from IPMS Netherlands. Rene, I hope you like it. Here are the pictures. Cheers,

I've just read a topic on Hyperscale Jet age forum http://www.network54.com/Forum/624633/mess...tool+1-48+F-94C where I've found a link to IPMS-ES Forum http://ipmseaglesquadron.org/ES-forums/ind...msg4027#msg4027 In this thread dating last December a guy called Glen (aka Kagnew) and presenting himself as a Panda-Hobby representative announced that his company is to release a brand new 1/48th Lockheed F-94C Starfire kit! If you have a look at the Panda-Hobby homepage (http://panda-hobby.com/) the company Chief Information Officer is... Mr. Glen Coleman http://panda.s109.000pc.net/news/12_451.html Stay tuned! V.P.

Well I decided to start a new project. Photo's to follow. 'Sailor' Malan's Spitfire that he flew with 74 Squadron in 1940, ZP-A (K9953). I am hoping to record the progress of this build, unlike my last project (DB Airfix Spit) which I have put to one side. It just seemed to keep going wrong. Perhaps every Spitfire project starts with a bit of debate, so here goes. I have Southern Expo 70th Anniversary decal sheet which shows a Sky Blue. Now we all know that the Stadard 1940 Scheme started of as Black/White and the went to Type S (Tamiya XF-21). I am cuirious as to the correct underside colour for Malan's Spit. I am sure a lively debate will follow as I prep the first set of photos.

Hi Guys, It hase been a while sinds I worked on this model. I started this one in januari 2013 in the Battle of the Reich GB. Here is the link. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234932979-148-heinkel-he-111-h22-update-25-03-2013/ But I didn't manage to finish it. So now I have started it up again. The no go at that time was all the etch in the cockpit, but that hase now been taken care of. Here are some pictures of what hase been done lately. And some coloured etch. and the cockpit compleatly placed. And some pictures of the glasswork. I have given them a dip in some Klear. The grey part on the first picture is a eject shute for the MG131 in the nose. I also have sawn out the top hatch for the pilot and the hatch I have taken from a Falcon set for the He 111. I have also made up the prop's but no pictures of those. Cheers,

Hello all. This will be my first entry for this GB. Oh boy, was it difficult choosing a subject for this? It is a shame my Dreadnought is more than 25% done, as it will probably take 'til November to get her complete. Anyway, my subject as chosen by Mrs Wifey The Roden Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter. Boxed as 'Comic' fighter, it will be done as a different version. It has plenty of detail, some quite fine moulding (to my eyes anyway), and a fair bit of flash to contend with, normal Roden traits. The bits: It comes with two upper wings, so I can modify it to non Comic format (I think). The instructions do not supply a rigging guide, so I will need to interpret the box diagrams. I will use EZ-Line for that. Roden supply Etch rigging points, but the hole in them is extremely tiny, so I hope the line sticks to them well with CA, as I doubt I could thread it through. There is one hitch to try to sort out, one of the wheel hubs is missing (middle sprue, bottom right), so I need to get a pair of replacement wheels - any suggestions would be of great help. I am not sure if they are Palmer Cord, or their sizes, but will do some research. There is also a second upper fuselage deck to enable the different version to be built. The transfers were the usual Roden quality: I have built a couple of Roden kits in the past, and thrown one away, so I know their transfer quality is not, shall we say, 'great' but this was daft. They had disintegrated in the packet. Normally at least they seem to wait until you put them on the model before they do that. I found that there was not much choice with aftermarket markings, but Hannants came to the rescue with these: A set by Blue Rider, and in keeping with me preferring to do things slightly off-beat, are of Imperial Russian WW1 aircraft. I have heard that Blue Rider transfers can sometimes be a little bit see-through, but as these only need 6 roundels, and all are overlaid on the same colour, it should not be a problem. This may not be a rapid build, but I will crack on as best I can. As usual, any hints or tips will be greatly appreciated, kind regards, Ray

Hi! Here's my latest. It's Academys Strike Eagle finished in Xtracolor paints. I used Eduard photetch for extra detail, and Hasegawa weapon set for the Mk. 82's. Decals are from Afterburner and depicts a Lakenheath Eagle All comments appreciated Best regards Rune Haugen Norway

Time sure flies, when you're having fun. So here today - 5 days before 'take-off' I present my topic for this Group Build. Hasegawa's 1/48 P-38J w/Eduard etc and Kagero decals: I'll be starting this on friday the 6'th of june and I be having 'The Longest Day' on the telly as further inspiration! I'm really looking forward to this! Cheers - and may your glue never dry out! Hans J

Hello, Having noticed a dearth of discussion regarding said kit, I thought I'd start the ball rolling myself. Sprue pics are already floating on the Net, however here are mine. Looks like this boxing is the only one that we'll get, with optional parts for early and late versions and something for the spare box as well. Manufacturers take advice: the fuselage interior shape follows, well, is the actual fuselage: the Karman fairing is a separate part. Great for accuracy, although it remains to be seen how this will affect putting on the wings. With respect to their first kit, ejection pin marks are more in check, and there is some detail on the inside of the wheel wells: You get enough bombs to prevent takeoff. I don't think the Il-4 was ever armed with rockets, however their provision doesn't certainly harm no one. Spare box, here we come! A rather unusual load is an AMG-1 naval mine with aerodynamic fairing; there's also a torpedo (possibily a 45-36-AN model?), one FAB-1000 and two FAB-500 bombs. If you build the bomber version the torpedo can be used for a Soviet A-20... What let me down is the width of the panel lines. What to do here? Mr.Surfacer? Stretched sprue? Bite the bullet? Suggestions are welcome. Some oddities of the surface detail: Rendition of the fabric has improved a bit: There are a lot of parts for the interior, but the detail is rather on the soft side: The clear parts are thick but clear. You get a dorsal turret and a half (the difference is in the number of frames), the other half might be a starting point for a field-modified Boston...? This was the feature I was most anxious about. How do the nose windows fare? Fit seems good but they sit 'recessed', not flush. Thinning of the fuselage in correspondance to the frames is in order. Part of the engine. See what I mean about the 'soft' detail? Re the decals, we're finally spoiled for choice. Register is good. However, there's a bit of a problem with the star borders and other details: the white and especially the yellow don't quite cover. This kit will satisfy enthusiasts first and foremost by virtue of its existence, however in some regards (surface detail...) it's a step back from the Tu-2. Pity. Still, I'd rather put together this one rather than wait for Tamiya. If I get some spare time today, I could try and tape it together to check for fit and shape. HTH, Bone

Hi all, I have a question for the F-104 experts out there. What are the differences between the cockpits of the TF-104 and the F-104DJ? The reason I ask is because I'm thinking of using Aires' TF-104 1/48 cockpit in my Hasegawa F-104DJ. Any insight would be very much appreciated. Many thanks in advance!