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Foxbat

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About Foxbat

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    Crook
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    Anything you have to look at twice to identify

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  1. Finally got all the green bits attached to the hull. On this side you can see the headlight, a pair of shackles in front of the box on the track guard (no idea what they are for, the tow ropes come later and have their own) and numerous grab handles. There is still some cleaning up I could have done on some of the handles, but they're so fine and so much smaller in real life that I can live with them like that. On this side is the base for a radio aerial, more grab handles and if you look really hard you can just see the tail light. There is one handle missing. Final score for the hull was: Stuck first time: 13 Stuck second time after being wrestled from the jaws of the carpet monster: 1 Disappeared into the ether, even the carpet monster missed it: 1 Time to play with green paint again so I can get on with attaching all the bits that aren't green - there's a couple of wooden boxes, the exhaust pipe ends and enough spare track links to keep two more tanks running Andy
  2. Thank you. They're not as good as I was hoping, but they'll do for this build Andy
  3. Looking good. I like that nice sharp demarcation line. Andy
  4. I too have the Trumpeter kit in the stash, but having seen that decal sheet I need at least two of these. I'll be following along trying to not to drool too much. Andy PS. I keep reading your sig in the voice then looking for my good clicky pen
  5. Tracks are on. They were so much easier than the Tiger ones I struggled with this time last year it was untrue - think the whole lot were done in the time it took to turn one Tiger link into a soggy, gluey mess I experimented with Plastix's painting method, but I wasn't happy about the sand - I basically turned the whole track yellow so I only did it on one side then gave everything a coat of sepia ink to blend it. Don't know why I was so worried, you'd be hard pressed now to tell which side got which treatment. Both look good, so it was a worthwhile borrow. For my own amusement I rested all the sub-assemblies together so they looked vaguely tank like. Looks like I'll need a little work when I come to permenantly join the two hull halves. Still loads to do, but I can see the progress now which is good for morale. Andy
  6. Very nice build, enough that I was persuaded and I've added one to the stash. Andy
  7. No more painting to show for now, but I did continue with construction in the meantime. The turret went together without any major problems, although the old maxim "If a Tamiya part doesn't fit, check what you did wrong" came into play. You can't really see it here, but there is a nice cast texture on the turret sides and some nice heavy weld lines where needed. I made a start on the upper hull too, trying to get everything that will be green in place. Since the driver's hatch is closed to disguise the complete lack of internal detal, I remembered to have one of the vision blocks open. Again, some nice weld detail down the edges of the glacis - I'd never noticed before that the plates interlocked much like later German tanks. Seems the sloped armour wasn't the only concept they borrowed. Auxilliary fuel tanks and exhaust shrouds are also on. I've added a few boxes and the last engine cover since this photo, so there's just a couple of dozen grab handles and detail parts to add before I go to town with the 4BO. As an aside, I'm losing count of how many 1/48 armour kits I've built with metal bottom hulls, but one statistic does leap out; only ONE of them had the screws to join the hull halves in the box I've been reading Stix's SU-122 thread, so I'm going to steal his track painting tips and tackle them next. Andy
  8. I'm just far enough into that to be over the moon that Airfix are releasing the new Beaufort kit. Back on topic, the G.50 is looking worlds better than mine ever did. That toned down mottling works really well. The CR.42 is looking good too. I still have the one I built <mumble> years ago, but at this remove I have no idea whose kit it was or what paints I used. Andy
  9. Wouldn't feel right going through a whole whirlybird GB without at least one appearance from this Russian manufacturer who chose their own route to cancelling torque reaction - who needs tail rotors when you can have twin counter-rotating mains? No idea when (if?) I'll get to this one, but I'm laying down a place holder to give me some impetus to at least have a go. Kit is from Zvezda with a striking painting of the crew mid-rescue. The box doesn't mention the type beyond Helix D but Wiki came up trumps, it's the Ka-27PS, a dedicated SAR version of the original Helix A ASW helicopter. Inside the box you get the full original ASW kit, plus an extra sprue with the new parts needed for this version. Decals are for two versions, the box top one belonging to the Russian Navy's Northern Fleet, and one from a Russian Government rescue service in exactly the same scheme but with a big banner on the door instead of the saltire and polar bear markings carried by the navy. I've had a read of the instructions and there's nothing too taxing in there until the final stage where the twin rotors come together. Think I'll just work through and burn that bridge when I get to it. Andy
  10. My chosen scheme is dated June 1943, so not much mud. I'm going to need a LOT of dust Andy
  11. I was sure I had an intermediate photo to go here but it seems not. Any road up, I attached the plastic hull end and transmission pieces to the metal hull tub like so, then gave everything visible a coat of Akan 4BO olive green: When that was dry, I gave the details a wash with black green ink to bring out the detail and did some basic weathering of the hull sides where they will be hard to reach with the running gear attached. Base is a light sandy colour for old, dried muck, then a darker earth tone over it to represent newer, wetter dirt. Paint was stippled on then wiped straight off to leave indistinct streaks and blobs just as Mother Nature intended. I then spent what seemed like hours very carefully painting wheels and tyres. There are only 5 wheels per side, so how hard can it be? Well, each one is a double width, and the edges have to be painted each side so suddenly that's 40 circles. I swear I took it easy and used a tiny pointed brush, but the photo suggests I let the cat have a go. I'll do a bit of tidying up before the next installment. Tamiya's instructions would have me add the tracks next, but I'm going to go off piste and do some work on the upper hull while I wait for all the various glues and paints to go off so I can handle the hull without fear of losing anything. Andy
  12. I always fancied this one but never got round to it. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Andy
  13. Since posting that, I've been looking for some paints as I have a couple of Leopards to do. Hataka do a set for Modern German Vehicles in both their red line (optimised for airbrush) and orange line (lacquers) that inludes the colours we both need. I've used Hataka blue line acrylics before and really like them so that may be an option you could look at. Andy
  14. I just used my first AK paints on a recent aircraft build. The paints took some mixing and several coats to get good coverage using a brush. The lighter colours took more work than the dark. Maybe if you are spraying and have a good base coat you won't have the same problems. I have never used Mig colours so far, but I've seen them used on builds here and they do seem to give good results Andy
  15. Ahhh, Menzies. They had a big store by the Monument in Newcastle. I remember the climb up the dingy back stairs to the 'interesting' departments. Can't recall very much about the models they had, except I picked up a Revell Kawasaki Mach III in a sale and never finished it. Don't think I've ever completed a bike kit to this day. Hope your build ends better than my wee nostalgia trip Andy
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