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diablo rsv

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Everything posted by diablo rsv

  1. That seems a bit on the pricey side to me. I know the Takom kits are getting a little harder to get but they can still be found for around the £50.00 mark. I can't imagine the Meng kit is going to be that much of an improvement. I would expect full interior for that kind of money.
  2. Hi Steve I wondered why it's a little quite over on the AFV pages, I keep finding you all in the group builds. I feel I've been missing out on some excellent work. That's a very nice build and paint job. As mentioned above these French paint schemes make for an interesting subject and Silly Putty certainly makes our lives a little easier. I shall look forward to seeing how you tackle the weathering stages. ATB Wayne
  3. Thanks Peter, That makes a lot of sense. Would that literally be black as it looks lighter in tone in the photos or would you think a browner colour more suitable.? Wayne
  4. I couldn't find enough images of any particular vehicle to work out an accurate pattern for the disruptive camouflage pattern so I thought I would just make a representative model of the type. Using the few references I have and the Mike Starmer booklet I worked out a likely pattern and masked this off with Silly Putty. I then sprayed the disruptive colour with MRP-343 Dark Green G4. I was a little concerned that some of the small detail parts would be broken off or damaged when the putty was removed but luckily I got away with it this time. I used the kit decals for the markings to represent a tank from the 4th RTR. The white recognition squares were masked and spayed on. The model was then given a pin wash with thinned oil paint to help pick out some of the details before it received a flat clear coat of Mr. Color GX113 thinned with Mr.Color Rapid Thinner. The wheels were painted a rubber colour and detail painting on the tools etc was carried out with acrylics and oils. The yellow blob on the front is to represent gas warning paint, it would change from a yellow ochre colour to red in the presence of gas. In most of the period photos I have seen the headlights appear to have an opaque appearance as does the Bovington example. I haven't worked out yet if this was opaque glass or some kind of covering so I haven't put in any glass yet. The end is finally in sight for this one. I just need to finish off the tracks and start the weathering process so hopefully it won't be too long before the next update. Wayne
  5. Thanks Bertie, The 'Matilda I' is quite an important part of the collection that I'm building so I couldn't really give up on it and now the end is in sight I am actually enjoying it. Wayne.
  6. Excellent work again Vytautas, your attention to detail is really paying off. Wayne
  7. Very impressive work. The burnt out areas look really good. Wayne
  8. Looks like another interesting project John. I shall look forward to watching your progress. Wayne
  9. I'm trying to capture the correct look of the headlights on my Accurate Armour build of the 'Matilda I'. During my research I have noticed that the head light glass often has an opaque appearance to it. It doesn't appear to be painted over so I wondered if there is some sort of other covering on them. The Bovington example seems to display this same opaqueness but the contemporary image of a factory fresh 'Demon' has clear glass so I assume this is a field modification. Wayne
  10. Very nicely done! The snow in particular looks authentic. Wayne
  11. I feel your frustration John, although I don't recall that happening to to me with any completed models I do have quite a few limited run kits in the stash, mostly Blue Max and indeed Aeroclub, that have been superseded by the likes of Eduard and Special Hobby. Of course I have every intention of building them still, I just need to be able to carry on model making into my hundreds. Wayne.
  12. Very nice work Lee! I think you have captured the worn winter look very well indeed. Wayne
  13. I think this is very nicely done Ade and I am looking forward to seeing some of your current work.
  14. I have started the painting process by applying a light coat of white. The black primer does add a bit of depth in the shadow areas and recesses but I prefer a lighter base coat to work on especially as my go to MRP paints aren't very opaque. I do put the white down heavier on the upper surfaces to help with the contrast but in reality once the top coats are applied the effect is minimal. I find post shading to be more effective than pre shading but I'm not really a fan of heavy modulation and artificial lighting effects on armour models. Once dry I sprayed on the first coat of Khaki Green No.3 (MRP -333). I was surprised to find that this came out some what browner than I expected and when I compared it to my Valentine Mk.I, on which I used the same paint, it confirmed my fears. So I grabbed another bottle and this came out much better and compared very well with the Mike Starmer swatch in his booklet. Confusingly when I checked the batch numbers on the bottles they matched. My only explanation is that there was a lot of brown pigment at the bottom of the bottles and I shook the first one more thoroughly. Next task will be working out the pattern for the disruptive colour and a tricky masking job. Thank you very much Maginot, to be fair to the kit, in terms of accuracy, as far as I can tell, it is pretty accurate and the nature of limited run resin kits always throw up a few challenges but there is definitely room for improvement. I can almost guarantee when I finish this build an injection moulded kit will be announced. Wayne
  15. Thank you all very much for the encouraging words, I really do appreciate all of your feedback. Posting my work on this forum has definitely given me the drive to finish projects that would otherwise have been to easily abandoned. The building work has now pretty much been completed and after giving the model a wash in some soapy water I gave it a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black primer. Hopefully there won't be too many imperfections to sort out before I can get on with the real painting work. Whilst waiting for the primer to dry I made a start on the tracks. The resin tracks supplied with the kit aren't great so as I mentioned above I bought a set of Friuls for the T-26 ( ALT- 45) At first glance it looked as though they would be really fiddley, being such a small link, but once I got into a rhythm they went together quite quickly. Hopefully I can find some time in the next couple of weeks to get the painting done. Wayne
  16. Nice work Bertie, I made this one a while back and it was one of my most enjoyable builds, It looks as though you are enjoying yours as much as I did mine. Wayne
  17. Nice work John, as always I shall look forward to seeing your progress on this one. Wayne
  18. I've had a little break from model making after losing my mojo, mostly due to this kit, but I am determined not to give up on the Matilda so I thought it was about time I got back to it. I still don't think it will be one of my finest pieces of work however I feel that the A11 is an important part of a collection of British armour models and so I will have to do the best I can with what I have to work with. The first thing I needed to sort out was the rear hull plate. I sanded off all of the kit details and made a new rear plate from plastic card. I also resurfaced the inner faces of the final drive housings. A few bolts were added and supports for the jack and tow hooks were again made from plastic card. The area around the drivers hatch was sanded and filled, a new vision slit was made and a couple of bolts added. I will have to see how it looks when the model is primed but I don't think there is much more I can do to it. Along the bottom of the hull there was some tidying up to do and some more bolt heads to add. Once that was done I could add all of the various tools and accessories. I did replace the kits starter handle with a scratch built one as I didn't think the resin one looked great. I will also replace the resin Pyrene fire extinguishes with some brass ones from Aber. The etched grills were added to the engine deck without too much trouble. There wasn't much to do on the turret but the hatches did put up a bit of a fight. Replacing the axles on the bogies really was going to be an easy job so I resorted to straightening things out as best as I could. Due to the weight of the model I supported the hull with blu tac before attaching the wheel bogies. I'm still not very happy with them but now they are fitted I suppose they don't look too bad. This model may well be getting a heavy coat of mud. Construction wise I'm not too far off now, I just need to sort out the headlights and some other small details and then I can get some paint on. The tracks will be my next big challenge but that goes for most armour kits.
  19. I have finally got round to making a start on this little project. The first task was to start cleaning up the main hull. This comes in one piece with a reasonable amount of detail cast into it, unfortunately some of this detail, mostly along the bottom edge, was lost in the clean up process. It will be a fairly simple task to reinstate it though as it was mostly rivets. I have added the suspension mounts to the hull. The hull is an impressive piece of casting with a nice weight to it and my example doesn't have too many air bubbles in it. AA have even moulded in a seat in the drivers compartment should you wish to display the model with the hatches open. However I think you would have to add a lot of additional detail so I will keep mine closed up. The worst part of the hull casting is at the rear where there are some air bubbles to attend to and there will be some awkward tidying up to do where the casting blocks were attached. There are a number of parts to fit on the back panel so a lot of it will be covered up. The running gear is the first and probably the most time consuming part of the build. For a resin cast model I thought the detail wasn't bad. Assembling the bogies is where the downside of limited run kits began to show, the engineering and fit made it quite difficult to get everything to line up as well as I would have liked. Seen from the side they don't look too bad but from above it's not so good. I toyed with the idea of replacing the axles with brass rod and I may still do so but for now I shall put them to one side and get on with something else. Looking at the photos again I think I will have to replace the axles. I have started to attach some of the detail parts to the hull. Most of this is straight forward enough but having reference photos is a must to get the correct positioning. The drivers hatches were a poor fit. There was some warping to the hatch itself and the front plate has some missing detail that will need to be replaced. The sides of the hull had to be squeezed together to close the gap around the hatch and there will be some filling required where the front plate meets the hull sides. I was never expecting this to be a straight forward build due to the nature of limited run resin kits, there are a number of places where I feel I need to replace details and make repairs to poorly cast parts and I'm just struggling to keep motivated with this one at the moment. I don't want to park it as I know it can be difficult to pick it up again but I am tempted to build something straight forward to restore my mojo. Wayne
  20. Unfortunately as no collection of British AFV's would be complete without it I fear I may have to bite the bullet, I have toyed with the idea of scratch building combined with some appropriate kit parts but by the time I had done that the £74 AA wants may not look so bad. Wayne
  21. It's always an interesting debate when it comes to correct colours for models. I use MRP paints for my British vehicle colours and have been very impressed by them. I have pretty much used all of them now and each one has been a very good match for Mike Starmer's colour chips, which is good enough for me. The only one I haven't checked is the Dark Green No.4 but I am confident it will be a good match. If you are happy with spraying lacquer paints I can thoroughly recommend them. Their Khaki Green No.3 is what I used on my Valentine Mk.I below. As regards to the kit Peter, I have the more recent casting with the resin wheels. From what I have seen of the older ones this release seems to be better cast as well with less bubbles. As for the tracks, I binned them and got a set of Friuls for the T-26. As the T-26 was basically a Vickers 6-Ton and the A11 shared many common parts I think they should be a pretty good match. Wayne
  22. I think that you may have had a dodgy one Nenad. The MRP Light Stone that I used on my Crusader was an older one in the glass bottle and it was a perfect match for my Mike Starmer swatch. Wayne
  23. Blimey! That takes me back, I built that as a kid in the 70's. I guess the Revell boxing doesn't come in different coloured plastics. Lovely job on yours by the way. Wayne.
  24. That's looking very good Mark. I had a similar problem with their Whippet tracks, I had to resort to removing the drive sprocket and move it further back. Wayne
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