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diablo rsv

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  1. Whilst I was pondering on how to tackle the paintwork I thought I would have a look at the wheels. I had originally planed to use the wheels supplied by Meng on the 1920 car but I was a little concerned by their use of rubber for the tyre. The detail itself isn't too bad but they are flexible and I'm not sure how well they would take paint plus they also seem to attract dust. The other problem is that there is no way to give the impression of the weight of the car by flattening or bulging the bottom of the tyre. I wanted to get a set of the DEF Model wheels but unfortunately nobody in the UK seems to have stock of them so I ordered the FC Model Trend wheels. I have to say I am really unimpressed with the quality of this set and would say it was a complete waste of £20. Not the first time I have been disappointed with their products. The detail on the front face is fine but large sections of the tread pattern is completely missing and the surface has quite a rough texture to it. The inside of the hubs have no detail at all. I felt my only option was to order the DEF wheels from Europe, I'm so glad I did as these wheels are superb. Although they are the same price as the FC Model Trend wheels there really is no comparison.. For the 1914 car Meng provide two halves of a plastic tyre and a photoetched set of spokes which is sandwiched between them. @Bertie McBoatface made an excellent tutorial on how to assemble them in his build log HERE . They do look great but looking at photos of the actual car I felt that the tyres look a little too chunky and the spokes could be finer. It just so happened that I had the Copper State Lanchester sitting on my bench and the wheels look very similar to the Rolls Royce ones and size wise they are exactly the same. Definitely an improvement but I had ordered a set of Copper State Models replacement wheels for the Lanchester and these are fantastic. Not cheap but when you see them you can see why. They are soo delicate, I just hope I can adapt them to fit. Here they are all together for comparison. Hopefully next update will show some paint on the cars. Wayne
  2. Once again, thank you all for your help and encouragement. It's very much appreciated. Wayne.
  3. I have started to add some of the details to the front of the cars although the lights and radiator covers will be left off until after the painting, as will the fenders for the 1914 car. There is an armoured plate that covers the front axle. I felt that Meng's were too thick so replaced them with some thinner card. One of the more noticeable differences between the 1914 & 1920 cars is the position of the vision slots on the drivers visor. The slots on the 1914 car are at the same level where as the right hand slot on the 1920 car has been raised up. Again I felt that the plastic used for these was too thick and as Meng only provide the later style of visor I cut two new ones from card. On this particular 1914 car it looks like the crew have added some thicker plate, or possibly timber, for added protection. Looking at the above photo I see that I have forgotten to add the hinges to the top of the visor. Now onto the turrets. The 1920 cars turret was built without any modifications apart from replacing some of the rivets. The rivets on the front and back of the curved surfaces are somewhat elongated, I guess this due to the way the parts have to be removed from the moulds, so I punched out some .5mm discs and replaced the worst effected ones. Another of the main differences between the 1914 & 20 cars is the height of the turrets. The 1914 turret is noticeably lower than that of the 1920 cars. The photo below shows the different styles side by side. Sadly Meng only provides the later taller turret. I thought I had found the answer to the problem with an after market turret from Friendship models. This resin turret also comes with the earlier drivers visor. I can't comment on the quality of the product though as, after a month of waiting, it never arrived. So my only option was to modify the kit turret. This, unfortunately, isn't just a case of taking a couple of mm off of the bottom of the turret. The overall height isn't that much less however the angle of the slope is greater. I couldn't find any reliable plans so the best I could do was to get approximate dimensions from photos. I had the diameter of the kit turret so I enlarged or reduced the photos to match that. I could then work out the rest of the dimensions using a digital Vernier caliper. Probably not the best way to do it but I think it's close enough. The aperture for the Vickers MG appears to be squarer on the earlier turret but that may be unique to these particular cars. Another modification my subject car had was the addition of a box on the roof section. Presumably headroom was a problem with the lower turret and I guess that is why the height was raised on the later ones. I can't tell from the photos I have whether this box was hinged, had a hatch in it or was just fixed. I suspect the later. One other addition on these cars was the fitting of a hook assembly to the front of the chassis. I believe this was to enable the removal of barbed wire. The image below is the clearest I can find of it but I was wondering if this was fitted to any other vehicles or was it a local addition. Maybe Peter @Kingsman could shed some light on it and the raised turret roof. I decided I could fit the fenders and running boards to the 1920 car before painting. They did have quite a nasty ejection pin mark inside them that could possibly be seen on the finished model, so these were removed with a bur and whilst I was at it I thinned down the edges as well. I was getting to the point where I needed to think about getting some paint on them. Firstly I gave the modified turret a coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 to get rid of any sanding, glue and file marks and then both cars were primed with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 The colours for the Caunter Scheme of the 1920 car are fairly well documented. I just need to check if the base colour would be Light Stone or Portland Stone and see if I can get the correct pattern from @Mike Starmer There are patterns in his book for cars but not specifically the Rolls Royce. The 1914 car is a different matter. I doubt there is a documented account of the colours used on these . These cars were photographed in Arras in April 1917 and these seem to be the only two photographed in this scheme. There could be more of course but by this time trench warfare meant that there was limited uses for armoured cars on the Western Front so they were a rarity. The pattern on these cars isn't dissimilar to the Solomon Scheme that was seen on Mk.I Tanks in August/ September 1916. The toned down version of this was most likely Ochre, Brown and Green over the base Grey and often each colour was separated by a thin black line. I really must finish that kit. However there only seems to be three colours used on these cars and the scheme was phased out by December in favour of a 'mud brown colour'. These cars have also been given a coating of a mineral substance known as Uralite which was believed to absorb the impact of bullets. Not something I had heard of before and I'm not sure how this would affect colours or lustre. Looks like I will need to do some more research or ask Peter @Kingsman again. Wayne
  4. Those paint schemes certainly look interesting, you don't mind a challenge do you? What is the quality of that figure like Bertie? I think I'm going to have to put one in my 1920 car, that's quite a large opening to fill. I'm not very experienced with figure painting though, so a tarp may be the answer. Wayne
  5. Best wishes for Scoobie Darryl. It never ceases to amaze me how dropped or pinged parts perform that magic disappearing act, every session I recon I spend half my time crawling around the floor. The engines looking good, will much of it be seen on the completed model? Wayne
  6. Coming together nicely Kris, You're definitely right there, it think that's a must do job at this scale. Wayne
  7. Great to see another RR being built. I'm really enjoying my build, it's a nice kit as it is but there is plenty of scope for improvements. You are going for the same scheme as one of mine so it will be interesting to see how you go about painting it. I'm still trying to think of the best way and which colours to use. Your wheel looks good, I haven't attempted mine yet but you made the process look pretty straight forward. Wayne
  8. Thank you very much, that's very kind of you, but to be honest I think I'm still in beginners class compared to some of the scratch building skills displayed on these pages. For one example check out the build by @Model Mate HERE. I do quite enjoy that side of it but I don't think I would have the patience scratch a complete model. I just use these tools and various sanding sticks, plus you don't get to see the ones that don't make it. Thanks Guys, that's really appreciated. Wayne
  9. The chassis and engine looks great Ed, As for which way to go re the floor, I think I would be tempted to get the basic painting done before fitting. I hate masking up and would worry about damaging any delicate parts. I would think any weathering would cover up any damage to the paint work. Wayne.
  10. For some reason I can't see your photos either on my phone or pc. Wayne
  11. Impressive detailing work MD, this is going to be a cracker. Wayne
  12. No problem with that John, quite flattered really. I managed to find a couple of clearer photos of the 1914 car that I am trying to replicate. The first thing I noticed is that I have gone with the wrong style of storage box under the rear fender, in fact there doesn't appear to be one at all on the left hand side, however I decided that maybe there was one at some point. So I removed the boxes that I built earlier and scratched two new ones. The door flap is made from some pewter sheet. As with the lower boxes the upper ones appear to come in a variety of styles and sizes. The ones that Meng provide are quite poorly moulded and need a lot of sanding to make them usable. On this particular 1914 car the boxes seem to be longer than the Meng ones ( which are really only suitable for the 1920 vehicles) but are they similar in section. So once again I made some new ones out of plastic card. I left this one partially open and will have a tarp or something poking out. I also decided to replace the front of the mudguard as Meng's depicts the construction as three quite thick planks but looking at the photos of the actual car it looks as though it is one sheet of ply. For the 1920 car I used the Meng boxes as a base. After sanding them to remove the moulding issues a plastic strip was glued along the top edge to represent the lip around the lid. It appears that the hinges are inside the lid and fixed through the lid into some wooden blocks, so some plastic strip was glued to represent those. I have some work to do at the front and then I can move onto the turrets. Wayne
  13. Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your comments. Thanks Scrapiron, that would be an easier method, I toyed with a couple of methods, including drilling out and a similar method to yours, however the Meng moulding isn't great. Not sure if it shows clearly in the photo but the left of the exhaust tapers down to about 1.5mm so it really needed reshaping anyway. After looking at my reference photo the Meng exhaust looks a little long, on the 1914 car, so it maybe a wasted effort as it won't really be seen if I cut it back. Wayne
  14. I knew it would be a good idea to watch you build yours first, at this rate you are going to save me hours of pain. You're making a great job of it though, hopefully the rest of it will be plain sailing. Wayne
  15. The next phase of the build involves fitting the cabin floor and rear deck to the chassis, this is where I found the first snag. The fly wheel seems to prevent the cabin floor from sitting down properly onto the chassis rails. At first I thought I may of made a mistake as I hadn't seen anyone else have this issue. I couldn't see any option apart from shaving off the top of the fly wheel. Once this was done the floors fitted nicely. I added some wood grain texture to the rear deck with course sand paper and the edge of a fine razor saw. I built up the second chassis and fitted the car bodies onto them. The car bodies are a one piece moulding which speeds up the process The panels that make up the mud guards were textured and added. Up to this point both models had been identical but I had reached the point where I had to make decisions about which subject I was going to model. Looking at reference photos it seems that almost every vehicle had subtle differences. I guess there were different body builders plus field modifications. It's hard to find enough photos of any particular vehicle to get the details exact so I decided to make them representative models of the type. I also want the cars to look as different to each other as I can and to show the evolution of the type. One of the first differences is the armoured plating around the fuel tank. On some of the earlier vehicles this has an angled back rather than the squared off one of the later ones. Some of these angled ones seem to be a little shallower and what appears to be a drain plug can be seen on the bottom of the fuel tank. This isn't included on the kit tank so I scratched one from some sprue and punched out plastic discs. There also seems to be quite a variety of storage boxes, or sometimes none at all, fitted to the underside of the rear mud guards. Using one of the reference photos for ideas I made the boxes up from some plastic card and then added some wooden texture. The only other modification I made was to the support brackets. Meng's are depicted as a solid wooden piece whereas most of the early ones seem to be a metal strut, these were easy enough to make from some plastic strip. And here they are side by side for comparison. The 1914 car is on the left. There's a bit of tidying up to do on what I have done so far and then I shall carry on with the upper stowage boxes and work on the front end. Wayne
  16. Looks like an impressive piece of casting. Was there much to clean up? Wayne
  17. That's a neat little engine Ed, they really don't skimp on detail. Good luck with the chassis. Wayne
  18. Thanks guys, I borrowed the idea but I couldn't really see any other way of doing it. As regards to floaters George, you're right but it wouldn't be too difficult to remove an readjust. Wayne
  19. The Meng RR Armoured car has often been featured on modelling forums including this one, most notably the excellent build by @Andy Moore, so it will be difficult not to repeat what has done before especially as the build process itself is quite straight forward. Therefore I have decided to skip the vehicle history and sprue shots and put more emphasis on my painting and weathering processes. The part count of the kit is quite low especially compared to Miniart and Gecko, and to be honest that's quite a relief. A demonstration of that is the construction of the chassis, which is where assembly begins. Although it maybe a little simplified it really is all you need, The centre section being one piece means that there shouldn't be any issues with alignment. Judging by their B Type bus that I built last year Miniart would of made this chassis out of at least 50 separate parts. The front axle is moulded as one piece with the wheels straight ahead but I thought the model would look better with the wheels steering to one side a little. This was simple enough. I just cut the hubs and arm off and glued them back on at a slight angle. I replaced the tie rod as I cut the original one a tad short. The end of the exhaust needs a little work to improve it's appearance... so using the same method that Andy did on his build, I set about improving it. First I cut out a semi circular section using a bur in a rotary tool, I then cut two semi circular pieces of plastic card and glued them in place leaving a smell gap between them. I then filled the join with some Tamiya filler. This was then sanded to regain the shape and thin the edges of the plastic. I then stippled some diluted putty over the entire exhaust to give it some texture. The end result maybe a little over scale but I feel it's a worthwhile modification. I am finding it difficult to find photos of the exhaust outlet on the Pattern 1914 cars and I'm wondering if the fishtail was used then or was a latter addition for the Pattern 1920 cars. Once the exhaust and rear axle are added the chassis is complete. Now I shall do it all over again for the second kit before moving on to the body work. Wayne
  20. Me too Ed, I get attracted to the more interesting paint schemes, they can be a challenge but are more rewarding when done. Also two of my latest and three of my current builds are olive green. Wayne
  21. I was having the same dilemma on my build ( link HERE ) and found a couple of period photos that may help. On the above photo the plate seems to be as RFM suggest... and on this one of a VC on the back of a Dragon Wagon, although I cant tell if the left one has been cut or is just bent. Wayne
  22. I was originally going to build the Miniart Austin for the groupbuild but Ed beat me to it and although I was going to build a different version I felt most of it would be repeating what he was doing, and he is an excellent model maker so I doubt I would be able to add anything of note. So I have decided to go with the Meng Rolls Royce. I couldn't decide on which version I wanted to build out of these two options. So I thought why not do them both. I know that the kit doesn't exactly provide the correct parts for the 1914 version but I have ordered the early turret from Friendship Models and hopefully I can make any other corrections. Wayne
  23. If you need any detail shots let me know, he keeps one of them up the road from me. We did take one to the MAFVA nationals show earlier in the year and a fellow was taking loads of detail shots apparently for a new kit, I didn't catch where he was from but maybe at last we will see an injection moulded kit, probably around the time you complete this build. Wayne
  24. I shall follow this one with interest. A friend of mine owns a couple of Ferrets and I was intending to build him a model of one of them. My feelings about Accurate Armour is a little love hate so I have been hesitant to splash out on one but from what I can see from the photos of the kit above this one looks promising. Wayne
  25. Looks like this going to be an interesting project John. If I can find the correct font I could probably cut you some masks for the numbering. Wayne
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