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diablo rsv

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Everything posted by diablo rsv

  1. That's really very nice! Not a vehicle I'm familiar with and you have made a lovely job of modelling it. Wayne
  2. You've made a love job of that Ian, I do like a StuG, I've got too many projects on the go though.
  3. Thanks Ian, Looking at the photos I've decided to make a couple of alterations. Just hope I don't mess it up.
  4. Thank you very much! I did notice a couple of things on the AFV Club kit but a little too late. The most noticeable one being that the barrel is somewhat undernourished. I have got an RB models one which has more girth to it and seems a lot more accurate than the kit barrel although the bore in the muzzle will need increasing. I obviously intended to use it as it was still in the box. Now I've seen it I think I will change it. Also the vision ports guards seem too high but that might not be so easy to change. In the photo I used and the one below there seems to be some rolled up fabric attached to the glacis plate, I wondered if this is some kind of dust shield such as the ones used on the Kingforce tanks. This photo also shows the middle track guards removed. I believe this practice did lead to some nasty accidents when riders or crew stepped down when the tank was still moving.
  5. I admire your patience, that's a lot of holes to fill. I have a set of their Heavy Cast Steel tracks for another AFV Club build but I haven't checked to see if they have the sink marks. There are a few options of finishes for the Churchill's and they all bring different challenges but I find that's the part I enjoy. I have got the Tamiya one as well that I use to experiment on. It's currently got a winter white wash which is fun to do.
  6. Thank you! I have no doubt yours will be very good. I was tempted to do that one as well but after doing a little research I realised it would require making or sourcing some extra parts such as the dust guards and fuel drum.
  7. Thank you very much! To be honest I found matching the side in the photo was easier than doing the areas that I didn't have a reference for. Trying to figure out how the pattern would have gone over the top and down the back and keep it consistent was a lot harder than it probably should have been.
  8. Thank you all very much! I hadn't done much in the way using the hairspray chipping method before so I am pleased with the results. I just wish I had done more on the turret though. I enjoyed doing the tracks on this one ( not something I would normally say ) as they went together reasonably well. The only real issue I had with them is what I presume to be ejection pin marks on the inside face of the links. I got bored of cleaning them all up and thought I would use the ones I hadn't cleaned on the top runs but of course I forgot and they ended up at the bottom. Fortunately they are not too visible. Painting and weathering them was a joy though, so for my other Churchill build I think I will leave off more of the track guards. Cheers Wayne
  9. Thank you! It does seem that way but in reality this one has been on the bench for about six months. I have a few projects on the go at the same time, usually starting a new one every other month or so and they can take anywhere from a couple of months to a year for me to complete. My photography area is also my spray booth so I generally take photos of three or four models at a time. This often shows up a few flaws that will require attention and another photo shoot. I'm not sure of the forum etiquette regarding posting new topics so I try to keep it at no more than one a month. I did squeeze in the Whippet though as it was really a repair job on an older build and I wanted some feed back on my use of oils. Cheers Wayne
  10. Thank you Darryl. I set myself the task of building a representation of all of the types of AFV's used by the British in as many varied colour schemes as I can. This one is quite unusual. There is something about the Churchill's antiquated but imposing look that has always appealed to me. Cheers Wayne
  11. This is the AFV Club 1/35th Churchill Mk.III. I based it on an image of a Churchill tank and infantry advancing near Medjez-el-Bab, Tunisia, 8 May 1943. The model was built as it comes with the exception of AFV club's individual link workable tracks. I found it quite an enjoyable kit to put together. I did read that some modelers didn't like the way the running gear goes together but I can't say that I found it particularly troublesome. The base colour is MRP's Khaki Green No3 (MRP-333). The stripes are basically Tamiya's Buff which was applied over a layer of hairspray so that it could be chipped and scratched off to give a worn look. The idea was to represent a rapidly applied camouflage where they had used locally sourced materials. I hand painted the outline and then filled in the stripes with the airbrush because I really could't be bothered to mask it all. Weathering was applied using with my usual mix of pigments, thinned paints, graphite and oils to try and give a dirty dusty appearance. This is the photo of the tank that I was trying to represent. I'm not sure which regiment it belonged to as there seems to be conflicting information. Hopefully someone will be able to enlighten me. @Das Abteilung ? After looking at the photo of the actual tank in my original post it was very obvious how under nourished AFV's kit barrel is, so I have replaced it with the RB models one. I had also missed what appears to be a rolled up dust shield on the glacis plate. This is a close-up to show the stowed dust cover. I fabricated it from some photo etch fret and milliput. I'm not sure how accurate it is as my reference photos are limited. The image below still has AFV Club's original barrel for comparison. Any advice and critique is welcomed. Regards Wayne
  12. I've got spares if you want them Rob. I did a different scheme. I can't say I was too impressed with the decals in that kit.
  13. Nicely executed! I do like these quirky old tanks.
  14. Messing around trying different techniques is defiantly a large part of the enjoyment that I get from this hobby. I'm also struggling to find a method of portraying convincing dust effects. On my A13 Mk.IV I used mostly pigments but they are quite delicate and using fixers or clear-coats alters the finish too much for me. I'm in the process of applying caunter to an A9 and I think I shall try to use more paint for the weathering. At least armour is more forgiving when it comes to covering up failed experiments. My other interest is WW1 aircraft which are less forgiving. Your test piece and the Type 74 looks interesting. I shall look forwards to seeing the end result. It's not surprising that the Rinaldi books are popular, they are very good if you like that style. Not sure that you would need more than one or maybe two of them though. I'm having a photography session tonight with a bit of luck so I should be able to post the Chuchill or maybe the Matilda soon. Wayne
  15. I found pictures of earlier Mk's with them on but not as you say on this one. Maybe they were to stop mud getting in which wasn't much of in issue in the desert where as cooling was.
  16. Nice to think I helped! This is what I had left over, but bear in mind this boxing allows you to make the earlier marks but without the errors from the earlier boxing's so there will be a lot of leftover parts. Wayne
  17. Using water to thin Tamiya paints on a heavily worn finish such as a winter white wash or a quickly applied camouflage such as a Tunisian Churchill that I've just completed definitely yielded decent results. However the finish is a little rough and delicate so I wouldn't use this technique on less worn finishes. As you say Ernst the same heavily thinned recipe can be used to create very convincing dust effects. I should add that I borrowed the Idea from Mike Rinaldi as shown in one of his excellent Tank Art series of books. https://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/ Wayne
  18. Great to see you persevered with it Graeme, it's turned out really well. I don't recall having the issues that you have had with the fit but as others have mentioned it as well maybe I had forgotten about them. I have another one of the same kit to build but as a Mk.III so I will see if I get problems this time. The tracks are definitely tedious which is kind of putting me off starting another one. The only other thing I thought about that kit was Bronco's choice of colour for the 7th armoured division emblem, I should have given you a heads up when you commented on my build. Your execution of the caunter scheme and the weathering is spot on. Regards Wayne
  19. I would say it also depends on what you are trying to achieve with the finished result. I made up a white wash from Tamiya flat white thinned with water and a drop of dish soap for a Churchill which worked very well to my eye. Wayne.
  20. Lovely job! You've got the tonal variation just right I think. I often see builds of mono colour schemes where the modulation has been taken too far. Regards Wayne
  21. Excellent work Ernst! Like you I've been messing around with the hairspay. I found the type of paint/thinner can make a difference. Wayne
  22. I wouldn't use ordinary cellulose/lacquer thinners for thinning the paints though, it's a bit harsh, best to use Mr.Thinners or Tamiya lacquer thinners. I probably wouldn't use it without ventilation either.
  23. That's a real pain Rob, Can you get a replacement?
  24. The AK Real Colours are lacquer based Darryl, the same as Mr Hobby and require the correct thinner. I use Mr Leveling Thinner with them and they go down really well. The problem with some of them is the colour match. Normal lacquer or cellulose thinner is great for cleaning out airbrushes. Wayne
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