72modeler

Or maybe sacre bleu?

Michael, I think using the Italeri B-25G as the basis for your Mitchell II project is probably your best bet; while the Italeri B-25C/D/G/PBJ-1C/D kits do have pretty much the correct depth of the fuselage at the rear, bear in mind that on the late production B-25C/D Mitchell II's, the waist gun positions were not staggered, but were directly opposite one another, unlike the H/J models. In addition, the tail gun position added to late production Mitchell II's was done by removing the clear tail cone and cutting off the aft end at an angle; the gunner's position was basically built on the top of the fuselage, with a taller more blunt and shorter canopy with a taller fairing than the one fitted to the B-25H/J. The tail gunner had a single .50cal gun, versus the twin .50cal guns fitted to the B-25H/J. Because the B-25H/J tail gunner's position had a canopy and fairing that was not nearly as tall as the one on the earlier versions, and because it had a twin gun mount and ammunition boxes, the rear fuselage was deepened by seven inches, which Italeri did not take into account when they released their H/J kits. Soooo, if your Mitchell II had the modified tail gun position you would have to fabricate one, as it's not the same as the one on the Airfix B-25J, and to my knowledge, no aftermarket firm has done the one you need. You can add the waist gun blisters and windows from the Airfix kit to your Italeri G, but you will need to make a taller faring on top of each blister, as the ones on the H/J's were not of equal height, with the upper one being much shallower than the lower one. Be sure to use the cowling sections that have the individual (Clayton 'S') exhausts, not the single exhaust ones, as late C/D's had them fitted at the factory. IIRC, the contours of the glass nose transparency on the Italeri kits is too slender and curved in contour, but not too bad. The emergency exit hatch on the nose transparency should only be on the LH side- don't remember if Italeri molded the hatch on both sides, but if so, just remove the RH one and polish the transparency. I think you've picked a good project, and it will make a version not offered in any other kit. The work involved is really not all that difficult- just take your time and measure carefully. You've already picked up on the variations and differences in the various small windows, see if you can find photos to confirm the configuration of the one you want to do. I will try to find a good photo or diagram of the modified tail gun position, but they're not that plentiful; I think the William Wolf book on the B-25 might have some, but that's a VERY pricey reference! Just a thought- if you're not planning to detail the interior of the waist gun positions, you can just attach them to the fuselage where they need to go and then before attaching the windows, paint the area inside the blisters black. I say go for it! Mike

You had but to ask! Hasegawa, Hobbyboss, and RS Models all did D520's in 1/72, with the RS Models kit considered to be the best in scale with the Hasegawa kit a close second. The Hobbyboss kit is one of their snap-fit kits, and although simplified, can be made into a decent model, but by the time you spend the money for the cockpit, decals, and etched detailing set, you could have either of the other two and not have to do all the work involved in opening up the cockpit and wheel bays. See the links below. Heller and Frog also did a D520, and they were decent, but the Hasegawa and RS Models kits are much better. Hope this helps! Mike http://www.hyperscale.com/2011/reviews/kits/rs92097reviewmd_1.htm https://modelingmadness.com/scott/allies/previews/has/51348p.htm https://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/fr/bakerd520.htm

Tell me about it! A beautiful and capable flying boat, but SO expensive! I, too, would love to have one, but not at the going rate- wish now I had snagged one when tney were more reasonably priced. Fuad has done his usual incredible job on this one. Mike

Maybe the following will help. In Aero detail #15 on the MC200/MC202/MC205, they list verde mimetico as FS34258, and verde anticorrosione as FS 34558. In the old Floquil master paint reference binder, which lists all of the paint lines offered by them over the years, they show verde mimetico as FS34504 and also FS34554. I have also read references that list the interior color as FS34227, which is also Israeli light green. Looking at the photos I have, which are restored aircraft, the interiors, wheel bays, and inner fairing doors all look to be a light grey-green color that ranges from a very pale grey-green to a light green with a slight blue cast. RLM 02 also appears to fall within the above range of colors, and I have its FS equivalent as FS34226 and also 36165. I wish I could be of more help, but these should give you a range or at least a starting point. It has always amazed me how close the colors sometimes are from the various nations, as RLM02, British interior, Italian interior, and some IJA/IJN interior colors are very close in appearance...I guess form does follow function! Mike

RF, Not my area of expertise, (Some would say I have none!) but found this link to a kit review that shows the mounting- have no idea if this is accurate or not, but if you or someone else has the Datafile #49 used as a CII reference, it might have a photo or drawing. Good luck- I think the CII is one of the better-looking WW1 observation types! I think I also saw some sites that offered downloads of many of the Windsock Datafiles, so you might try that avenue. Mike http://www.internetmodeler.com/scalemodels/aviation/Eduard_1_48_Roland_C_II_UgulanoBuild.php http://i40.tinypic.com/sx16i9.jpg

Away from the archives right now, and the only Eytie fighter I have built is a heavily reworked Airfix Fiat G-50bis in Finnish markings, but I'll see what I can find in my references; hopefully one of our resident authorities will see your post and help you. I only use enamels and pretty much handmix most of my Axis colors, so I'll see what I have made up or have an FS equivalent for...that being said, keep in mind FS equivalents are ballpark guides in many instances. (OK, Nick- time to come out of the bunker!) Mike P.S. For those who asked, and thanks for caring, no flooding or damage here in San Antonio from Harvey; besides, all of my kits, references, decals, and paints are on the 2nd floor- I ain't no dummy!)

Wow! An NAS Kingsville Buckeye! My brother-in-law used to fuel them when he was stationed there. Very nice model! BTW- Did the Pavla seats fit OK without trimming? Mike

Another beaut, ToT! If you hadn't said so, I would have thought this model was airbrushed! Well done, sir! (You can't have enough camouflaged Mustangs, I say!) Mike

Thanks for the post! Mike

Very nice! Bet the decaling took almost as long as the build! Mike

Doggone, CFFU- you are fast! Used the same site, but I'm pretty slow when it comes to the MATS website, as modern weenie cookers aren't my specialty, but you are correct, according to them. I can add that it is an F-14B-150-GR. Whatcha doin' messing around with Tomcats? Get back to F4U's where you belong! Mike

CTM, What a great build of an iconic plastic kit- Monogram was so far ahead of its time; can you imagine what they would be capable of turning out today? Your build looks very good, even with the operating and overscale gear and doors, but good for you for keeping them. I remember building this one when I was in the 6th grade and being sooo careful with that pin that connected the upper and lower gear struts so they would pivot. Fond and painful memories of pressing down on those Monogram decals every five minutes or so for an hour so that they would lie down over all those rivets.....ah, those were the days! Thanks for bringing an oldie but goodie new life! Mike

Peter, Best A-6 build in the scale I have seen so far, for what it's worth. Outstanding weathering- very convincing, and SO hard to do on a modern naval airplane, but you have pulled it off. Well done, sir! Mike

I'm jealous, as I have yet to go, but have relatives a few hours away from Oshkosh I could stay with; I'm hoping I can go when either the P-61B or XP-82 being restored here in the Colonies are completed and attend. My modeling friends usually make fun of me and accuse me of having almost no photos of complete airplanes, as I'm usually flat on my back shooting wheel bays! Hard to get underside detail photos at most museums because the airplanes are either roped off or the staff get excited when you crawl under one.

Yep- the last 86 Douglas-built F models had the chin turret fitted- the B-17F-75-DL block. Mike

Just saw this and thought some of you might like seeing it; a possible diorama project? Mike https://www.pinterest.com/pin/181410691223098043/

Dennis, No problem! I appreciate your thinking about me. When the Collings Foundation's B-17G Nine-O-Nine comes to San Antonio again, I will try to get some for both of us. Regards! Mike

Ooh! Shoot the wheel bays, please! Good profile shots of the nose contours would be nice, as well...still not sure Airfix got those quite right, but they're streets ahead of the Revell kit! Mike

Call me crazy, but those external tanks look like the ones carried by Meteor F8/9's and the NF11-14's. They are definitely not P-38 or P-51 external tanks. Are there any 1/72 Meteor kits or aftermarket sets that have Meteor drop tanks? Do an image search for DH Meteor drop tanks to see what you think. Just an uneducated observation, mind you, Admiral! Mike

Howdy, all! Stumbled upon this while looking for Spitfire XVI's that my good friend's uncle flew while with 695 Squadron, and thought if it hadn't already been posted here on BM, it might be a good modeling reference. The site has the histories of each squadron, airfields operated from, as well as color profiles of the aircraft used by each squadron, and other interesting information. (Mike, if this is not the most appropriate location for this post, please feel free to move it- I took a guess as to the best forum in which to place it.) Mike http://www.rafweb.org/index.html

Larry- I have an acquaintance who is a former AF Spad driver checking his manuals and photos for clarification on the landing lights- says he can't remember offhand, but will try to find a definitive answer. Stay tuned. Mike

I had no idea about the externally and internally mounted arresting hooks, Tony- thanks for the tidbit! (I must have a spare Blenheim motor and prop in my spares inventory somewhere... 'scuse me while I go rummaging.)

Mike, According to written sources, the Sea Gladiator Mk 1's were fitted with a fixed-pitch Fairey Reed prop; I have also seen photos of at least one, on Malta IIRC, that was fitted with the Mercury XV engine and Hamilton Standard variable pitch prop salvaged from a Blenheim. I think it was N5520, named Faith, one of the three famous Gladiator Malta defenders. Mike

Thanks for the reply, Tommy. I was wondering what the reason was for the 'short' fairing door! Mike