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72modeler

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  1. As a modeling reference, I totally agree, but I snagged mine on that well-known bookseller site at a bargain price! Mike
  2. Please don't get me wrong- I'm not complaining, as have four kits pre-ordered! Inner fairing door possible accuracy issues notwithstanding, it's light years ahead of the Monogram, Hasegawa, Academy, and KP kits! I pulled the doors from all of my 1/72 Allison and Merlin razorback kits, and the ones in the Hasegawa P-51B/C are the closest to original- they lack scuff plates, which I will most likely do with lead foil or thick decal stock, as either media can be snuggled down to conform with the underlying depressions. The old Monogram kit doors are next best, and the Frog Mustang Mk 1 are very good, but the depressions run almost vertically. Thanks to all for posting the additional photos; you can't be too careful, as some of the razorback P-51B/C restorations used P-51D gear struts and doors- most likely because they are readily available, and the D's had much stronger uplocks fitted in the wheel bay, not the door, as with the earlier versions. The slight difference in the contours of the outer door skins between the B and the D could most likely be hammered out with an English wheel. Re riveting vs spot welding the scuff plates- according to the P-51 SIG, they were spot welded to the door skins at the factory, but most likely were riveted if replacement plates need to be fitted due to damage, or in modern restorations. Like all of you, I am eagerly awaiting getting my paws on the Arma kit- an accurate P-51B/C has been such a long time coming, despite several serious efforts- now, if Arma could grace us with an accurate Spit XII, then I will be a happy camper! Mike I can finally model 352nd FG ace William Whisner's P-51B, "Princess Elizabeth" In my opinion, the prettiest one of them all!
  3. Is it just me, or are the scuff plates on the soon-to-be-released Arma kit too wide and stand too proud of the gear door skin? The Allison Mustangs as well as the P-51B/C inner fairing doors had depressions that ran diagonally, whereas the depressions on the P-51D inner doors ran vertically, which Arma has depicted correctly, as well as the location of the door actuator rams on the front of the door, versus the back of the door on the D model. I looked at a lot of period photos of P-51B/C's and the plates sure don't look that big or thick, I did find a discussion on the P-51 SAG regarding why the inner fairing doors were not painted with YZC or interior green at the factory. The inner and outer door skins were spot welded, and you cannot spot weld painted surfaces. That is why the doors were unpainted aluminum so the stainless steel scuff plates could be welded onto the door skin. The scuff plates were oftentimes painted in ZCY or interior green after prolonged use or overhaul, as seen in many postwar color photos. Curious as to why Arma made the scuff plates so thick and so large; especially when you consider all of the minute details they seem to have researched and gotten right. Perhaps one of the preserved 1:1 scale examples they examined had non-standard scuff plates on the inner fairing doors? Certainly not a deal breaker- I was just wondering if anybody else noticed this or am I nuts? (Don't go there, @corsaircorp!) Mike The Arma kit inner fairing doors: https://www.armahobby.com/70038-p-51-b-c-mustang-expert-set.html Original period P-51B inner fairing doors: https://www.airplane-pictures.net/photo/1349632/nl551e-private-north-american-p-51b-mustang/ On this period photo, the scuff plate does seem to be wider than that seen on the D, but sure isn't as thick as Arma hasw molded it. https://wingstracksguns.com/p-51b-mustang-texas-ranger-43-6698/
  4. Whatever happened to "Don't ask, don't tell?" Mike You might as well add Roll Call-Thud, by Campbell and Hill. Has the history of every F-105 built and at least one photo of almost every one! Missus 72modeler has a bounty on @RidgeRunner's head, as she says it's his fault I am buying and reading more references instead of actually building something and putting a small dent in my stash! (Been married now for 41 years and they have been five of the happiest years of my life!) If she sees this, I'm a dead duck!
  5. Yep- I can second that- it is the Bible for all things Thud. I owe @RidgeRunner big-time for telling me about the book, which I bought and have read and re-read more times than I care to admit! Mike
  6. , @e8n2, Thanks, Dave- I was wondering why Adam was so short with me, as what I provided the link to was the USAF T.O. which Cybermodeler put in their B-52G folder, which is not speculation. If you can'r trust an official T.O, then.... Now the Cybermodeler paint chart is more open to debate, I will grant, but the FS numbers are given in the official T.O. and I figure a modeler can use that to research which paint maker's colors are accurate. As we say here in the Lone Star State, "I ain't got a horse in this race!" Mike
  7. Adam, See if this helps. From the Cybermodeler website, B-52 reference section. It has the STOP colors/FS equivalents, and patterns. Mike https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/b-52/b-52_profile02.shtml
  8. I dunno, Graham. Your comment piqued my curiosity, and I did some 'net surfing to see what I could find regarding SNJ-2's and the wider wing center section you mentioned. Other than the straight edged rudder and squared-off wingtips, the only other change I read mentioned was a more powerful engine than fitted to the SNJ-1's. See the linked reference below. I agree with you- looking at period photos, it doesn't look to me that the center section on SNJ-2's was any different; I do see the blister you mentioned as being a fuel booster pump- if so, I don't see why its installation would require an increase in the center section span. Does this help? Mike http://all-aero.com/index.php/53-planes-l-m-n-o/7364-north-american-na-26-bc-1-t-6-harvard
  9. Yowzah! That's one handsome Wurger! Looks like the erks in the paint shop had a huge pair of pinkig shears when they painted this one! IIRC, there were some Bf-109G's that used the same irregular pattern on the wings. You must be related to @tonyot, seeing how you sling that paint brush! Mike
  10. What the others have said goes double for me- the best razorback Jug I have seen in a long time! Those could pass for period photos- your model is that good! Tamiya literally broke the mold when they did their 1/72 and 1/48 P-47's- a shame they didn't go ahead with an N in both scales and an M in 1-72. Mike
  11. Ho, hum- yet another outstanding build from you, Dragan! I really, really like everything you did with this one, and the RoKAF colors and markings are every bit as nice as the SVNAF and ANG Super Tweets. Wish I had your talent when it comes to faded/weathered paint and panel line treatment. Well done! Mike
  12. @BobC, I had another thought for a possible colorful scheme for a T-6G/SNJ-5, but they are both postwar. The USN scheme for instrument trainers was pretty colorful, being aluminum painted fuselages with yellow wings and insignia red bands on the wings and fuselage; post-war the SNJ's were painted overall yellow with insignia red bands and later on, willow green bands became the norm for instrument trainers. If you do an internet search for SNJ instrument trainer colors and markings, you can find many good reference photos. There is also a target tug/drone director scheme that consisted of a seaplane grey fuselage with yellow wings, fin, and stabilizers with red wing and fuselage bands, and a red rudder and cowl lip ring. @Graham Boak, I had forgotten all about the Warbird Tech monograph, and I have it, too! Thanks for the reminder. As far as postwar schemes go, it's either a USAF LTA-6G or a yellow USN instrument trainer for me!
  13. @BobC and @Graham Boak, Don't remember if I have posted this before- if so, I apologize! An excellent modelers reference site for all variants of the Harvard/Texan. I hope it will be useful- so many variations on a theme! Mike https://www.skytamer.com/North_American_T-6G.html
  14. About the only ones that come to mind are the pre-war USN SNJ's and the Korean War T-6G's that were used for spotting targets for airstrikes- there are decal sheets for them in 1/72, but I think are OOP.. Mike See this link for one of the Korean War LT-6G Mosquitoes. The cowling doesn't look right to me. https://modelingmadness.com/scott/korean/us/usaf/t6g.htm
  15. The 'early' short wing and short tail Marauders also could be seen with prop spinners and no dust filters on the upper cowlings in addition to the early tail position with a single .50 cal gun. The dust filters were added pretty quickly, especially in the MTO. See the links below for some good details. Avoid the Valom kit, as it has a horribly fat fuselage-looks like a beached walrus! That being said, other than the very old snap-tite Monogram kit, which has the early cowlings, is very accurate but simplified, but it's the only other ball game in town for a short wing Marauder. The 1/72 Airfix and Hasegawa kits are very good and will get you a good B/F/G model, depending upon which version you wish to model. As @Graham Boak said, @tonyot has done a couple, and his WIP's and RFI's would be invaluable references. Mike https://falkeeinsgreatplanes.blogspot.com/2018/03/raf-b-26-marauders-14-sqd-dominion.html https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/canadian-warplanes-3-martin-b-26-marauder Huge photo collection with USAAF and RAF types https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/B-26-Marauder/B-26-photos/pages/USAAF-41-7379-B-26A-Marauder-RAF-MkI-FK138-01.html
  16. Now, that's what I'm talkin' about! I also forgot to compliment you on your very subtle but realistic panel line/control surface treatment! Mike (I hope you looked at some photos of B-25C's to see what the oil cooler exits looked like to see what I meant, rather than just making the correction because some total stranger suggested you do it. One of the hardest parts of building a replica versus a model, for me at least, is finding good period photos that show where the scuffing, chipping, hydraulic, oil, and fuel stains, fabric fading, etc. commonly occur on a specific type, and trying to depict it realistically. There are some real masters at this that hang out on BM, and their work is always inofrmative. Mike Now you need to get an AMT A-20 and do the same thing- lots of very colorful nose art for SWPT Havocs!
  17. A very nice build of a well-traveled and well-known early Mitchell. Everything you did to improve the Accurate Miniatures kit shows. One small personal suggestion would be to remove or really tone down those streaks from the oil cooler exits, as unless there was a serious leak in the cooler or lines, hot air was all that came out of them. I really haven;t seen a period photo of a Mitchell that had noticeable staining from these outlets. In no way meant as a criticism of your outstanding build. Mike
  18. Words fail me at this point- the model and the photography are exceptional! If there was a category above museum quality, this model would be the first entry. Mike
  19. Tony, All four builds are outstanding! Like the other posters, I really can't pick any one above the others.but those black highlighted stars on the USAAF example really stand out, and I was unaware of their existence until your build and background story. You are one prolific modeler! You must have a surplus blister hangar out back to house your incredible collection! Mike P.S. Totally agree that the SA PR Mossies with the barbershop tails, yellow spinners, and D-Day stripes are the bees' knees!
  20. Special Hobby did early and late Fireflies in 1/72 scale- the two late version boxings are linked below. I have both and they are very nice, externally and internally. Only real issue, and IIRC was corrected in a build here on BM a while back, was the fact that SH depicted the division between the lower and upper cowlings as being smooth with a panel line separating the sections, which on the real airplane there was a crease between the two panels, which did not have the same cross section- sort of like the fuselage on a C-46 or C-97. hard to describe, but easy to see in photos of the actual airplane. The Airfix kit, which is OOP but can be found on auctions sites, got this feature correct, but is not nearly as detailed as the SH kits. I was planning to remove that section from my Airfix kit and graft it onto my SH Mk 5 kit, as that is the only late variant I wish to model. SH also did the MK1 in 1/72, but you stated you were not interested in that version. I recall @tonyot did a couple of Fireflies in 1/72 scale, and you could look for his WIP and RFI posts for details. The SH Mk 5 builder also explained how he corrected the inaccurate cowling contours, so you could do a search for it. Hope this helps until somebody who knows more than I (That's just about everybody else!) joins the discussion. Mike https://www.scalemates.com/kits/special-hobby-sh72066-fairey-firefly-tt-mk4--195453 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/special-hobby-sh72031-fairey-firefly-mkiv-v--112252 The Airfix kit: https://www.ebay.com/p/24012048347 Here are some photos I found that show the crease and difference in cross section between the upper and lower cowlings- subtle to be sure, but really makes a difference in the appearance of the finished model. (Not sure if those exhausts are correct, as the Griffon used in the restoration might have been from a Shackleton that had different cylinder heads and exhaust stacks.) http://aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com/firefly/firefly_04.jpg http://aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com/firefly/firefly_05.jpg http://aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com/firefly/firefly_06.jpg http://aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com/firefly/firefly_03.jpg http://aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com/firefly/firefly_01.jpg https://www.net-maquettes.com/pictures/fairey-firefly-mk-6-walkaround/#gallery[photonic-flickr-set-1]/10356552823/
  21. Yep- that's the one! I will remove the dead link from my post- sorry! Mike
  22. Thought I would share this short film clip with you. Neat footage of an F6F-5K drone being demonstrated on a ground rig, as well as Blue Angel F8F's and FH-1's. Some PBY-5A's thrown in for good measure! Footage via You Tube. Mike
  23. @Hawkgrove, Here's a photo I found just now that shows the single gun mount and tubular reinforcing structure very well. Hope you can use it. This one force landed in Switzerland. 42-30080, High Life, from the 351st BS, 100th BG Mike https://swissinternees.tripod.com/42-30080.jpg
  24. See if any of these are useful; I wasn't able to find any decent scale drawings that showed the leading edge landing light assembly. There are no drawings that show the location or size in my copies of the Valiant Wings, Aero Details, or SAM Modelers Data Files on the Mosquito. Best I can do from my reference library. Sorry! https://www.armahobby.com/70043-hurricane-mk-ii-b-model-kit.html https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/uk/raf/mosquito2/mosquito-pr-34/ https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/uk/raf/mosquito2/mosquito-mk-ix-ml914/
  25. Dennis, See if this photo of the Arma Hurricane IIb wing sprue gives you what you need- I would imagine they are accurate, seeing as how they seem to be pretty meticulous in their research! If you're doing a 1/72 model, maybe getting the basic sprues for the IIb kit, if they are available, might be your best bet. If I can find any scale drawings, I'll pm you. Mike https://www.armahobby.com/70043-hurricane-mk-ii-b-model-kit.html P.S. I have that kit, and if you want, I can take closeup photos of the wings with a scale rule next to them, and send them to you- that should get you in the ballpark...just don't let @Troy Smith know- I would hate to fall out of favor with the Hurricane fan club!
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