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109 fan

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109 fan last won the day on May 18

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    Greensburg, PA USA

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  1. More "wave mirror" mastery, Giampiero. Just beautiful! I had missed your in-progress posts; they are excellent as well. Easily the best Storch in 1/72 that I have seen.
  2. Now that is WAAAY too cool!!! Excellently conceived and beautifully executed. Bravo!
  3. Gorgeous work, particularly the clear parts!
  4. Beautiful MiG, Eric! Thank you for posting your paint mixes. Is there any chance you could show the ratios?
  5. Again, thanks for the compliments! FFH, the gear length was very much trial an error. Initially, I removed about .040" (almost exactly 1mm), but ended up taking a bit more than that. This photo is something of a guide. There is a ring on the gear near the top. When inserted in the wing that ring is just at the lower edge of the wing surface. B1A03634-0DFA-455F-8384-340CF89810E5_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr
  6. I finally put the final touches on the my latest "two-fer". This is the first time I nursed two models along to the finishing line simultaneously. Not sure I'll do that again. Whenever I felt a feeling of accomplishment after a particularly challenging subassembly, I had to face doing it all over again. Case in point was the stretched sprue antenna. The first one, White 1, took 5 tries to attach, shrink with a glowing ember from a lit toothpick, position the cones then add insulators made with white acrylic paint. It would snap off at the slightest provocation. Next in line was Yellow 8, with not one, but three antennae. The center wire fought me through eight attempts. I was reduced to maniacal laughter more than once as the modeling gods toyed with me. After that multi-day ordeal, the two adjacent wires obediently worked at the first try. Go figure. Since I didn't post photos of my first SH 109 earlier, I will include some here. So what are my impressions of this kit? I hold it is as high regard as any other 109 in this scale. But for ease of assembly, Tamiya it is not. I wonder how many Tamiya E'S I could have cranked out in the same time period. But it presents so much of a challenge that I find myself inexplicably drawn to it. I've started two more during these builds but will have to take a break before moving them along. The sophistication in areas like riveting, panel lines, stitching on the flying surfaces and cockpit interior are state of the art. However, other problems are nagging; i.e. the canopy is too wide (although some of this may have been builder induced, but not all of it). The attempt at brake lines is commendable, but they resemble rain downspouts more than thin tubes. On the latter two builds I removed them (again, no small task) and replaced them with stretched sprue and lead wire. Thank you Giampiero Piva for that inspiration. Beware of the tailwheel strut. I broke it off during two of these builds. As a precaution I installed an Albion Alloys tube in the rear fuselage on the third one and inserted the strut after major assembly and painting was done. The plastic in this kit is very soft. I used it to stretch sprues for the replacement brake lines. I had the impression that after glueing this to the gear legs I would be able to press it into recesses for a natural look. That notion was correct. Other plusses are separate, posable flaps and slats, a first in this scale for the latter. Finally, the main landing gear struts are too long. Quite a bit too long. I removed a fair amount from the top of the gear then reprofiled the end into a peg to fit in the recess on the top wing. I think this dramatically improved the appearance of the model. Eduard says in one of their recent monthly newsletters that they worked with Special Hobby on this kit. SH started with Eduard's research on their 1/48th model and improved and adapted it to 1/72. I believe the too-long gear is a vestige of that. The same issue characterizes Eduard's large scale 109 E's, along with the brake lines. Finally, I just like the character of this kit. It LOOKS like a 109 E. Some have claimed online that it is too portly. Perhaps. But all of the other kits have their own shape issues, including the ICM and Tamiya kits. To me, this is the best of the lot. Now on the the last details. Much work was done on the canopy. I used the Rob Taurus vac center section for the Fine Molds 109 F. The kit part would be acceptable for the beefier 109 G, but the E was more delicate. I added some riveted sections at the base of both sides. These were actually bolts, but .005" plastic sheet embossed with a Rosie the Riveter does a convincing enough job. A locking handle was made from more .005" plastic and stretched sprue. More very fine sprue was dipped in superglue to make a bulb. This was painted silver and about .015" was cut off the end. I used these to represent the knobs on the canopy side panels which were used to slide them open. A retaining cord and spring were made from very fine wire. Canopy frames are strips of painted clear decal sheet. Weathering was done with various oil paints and dry pigments. Yellow 8 has the new replacement resin wheel set from SH. They look good, but so do the kit items. That's enough for now; on to the pics. I would be happy to answer any questions. 81EBFE95-2F72-4D69-A632-93918F32B23B_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr C3D5ADB4-BA05-4F73-BFF4-554A41FC18CB_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 3F60AF03-09CE-4288-BF05-F68E4528E990_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr FFBD7E23-283F-4C75-AD5E-1A46BF8ED70F_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 35B7C9E0-2FE9-4DAE-93E5-5EA605B28BEC_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr B1A03634-0DFA-455F-8384-340CF89810E5_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr AF742898-D85E-488F-AFC8-6D0EB6FA91AF_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr F1D21E60-4191-460B-B79F-EF764B2308DA_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 22B80BDA-4265-4E10-8745-AE11C7D0C78E_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr B8A64094-EACD-47FA-8298-607164BF8620_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 217CD45B-B735-45EF-B8E8-1302D9644655_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 175AB80C-27D8-475C-BA21-F069E13CD3F6_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 5E2D9EC1-7BDF-4C65-958B-B00DDC8363BC_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr C2262719-FE94-4161-9943-80C79BE933B8_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 34D99201-61F7-4B9C-8BF4-C1BA47276764_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr
  7. Thanks, gentlemen. Web99, there are no major fit issues with this kit. The canopy is too wide but some sanding on the windscreen helped. I also cut the rear section in half, sanded it down and rejoined the pieces. You can find a much more detailed explanation of the basics in my earlier post on this site of another SH 109 E build.
  8. Getting closer. The first photo shows some pitot tubes I made from .2mm Albion Alloys brass tube. The brace was made by crimping the tube with pliers. This was then superglued to the tube. Here they have been primed with Mr. Surfacer 1000. 960F4B42-77A4-43C1-B2E8-5DC1CD5B5B1C_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr One of these birds will be a Jabo. I used a 250kg bomb from the ICM Bf 109 E-7 kit. The fin braces are heat stretched Evergreen strip. This gave me a good brace shape without having to cut thin sheet. 720D530C-B538-481A-BB18-C072C3636D72_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr Here is where they stand at the moment. D56A6345-1A5F-4929-8598-4FFD7851C25A_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr E49D942F-B4D6-4237-9A0B-7585D01D83AD_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 26B83356-4F30-4A3F-A197-355892BA1193_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 5CBF0E97-4F50-4E85-9B15-BABA489A537F_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr
  9. Let me echo what everyone has said, Libor. This is a superb build and your airbrush technique has never been displayed better. What particularly impresses me is the density that you achieved with the RLM 76 squiggle. This is incredibly difficult to achieve, and to get the uniform effect over the entire airframe is masterful! Bravo!! Barry
  10. Thank you, Johnson. I use burnt umber oil paint (a very dark brown) and thin it just slightly with odorless thinners. It is then applied with a small brush over all panel lines and rivets. This kit is already riveted, which saved quite a bit of time. After about 10-15 minutes I rub off the paint with dry Q-tips, horizontally on the wings and tail surfaces and vertically on the fuselage. I don't rub the paint completely off the airframe, but leave a little staining around the lines. Oil paint is very forgiving. If you're not happy with the result a wet Q-tip or paintbrush will remove most of it and you can start again. Also, it has a very slow drying time. Some modelers apply this weathering over flat or satin finishes. I prefer to start with a glossy surface. My personal preference is Gunze Sangyo GX-100 gloss lacquer. You can also use an acrylic finish but avoid enamels. The oil paint thinners will eat through the finish. HTH.
  11. While building my first Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4, sinister plans were being hatched for further variants. These are the next two. As usually happens, we try different techniques as we progress. On this one I tried the newish AK paints on the cockpit. They are OK but have not knocked Gunze Sangyo (aka God's Paint) off their pedestal. I only used them on the interior and started by giving everything a dark base, in this case RLM 66 grey. This was followed by RLM 02 sprayed at an acute angle from above. This left a contrived shadow below all of the relief in the cockpit. CAA676CD-D8A2-4E4A-8D12-68E20DD5E681_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr Detail painting and burnt umber oils washes followed. I also used the Yahu repainted instrument panel, which is a real gem. 7A67A443-0877-460B-AD45-284F09B00AEB_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 97552E20-E5A5-48DF-98E9-B13288C91185_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr These are two birds from JG 54, a group with some of the most flamboyant schemes and marking in the Luftwaffe. Both are E-4 variants, one will be an E-4 jabo. The first was started simultaneously with my initial Special Hobby 109. It will be Ostermann's White 1. A curious feature of this plane is the ghost images of the fuselage codes or Stammkennzeichen. These were applied with washable black paint but left a pale remnant when they were removed in the field. I considered a number of possibilities and ended up using white codes from Fantasy Printshop. I then gently over sprayed them with RLM 65 grey, followed by the RLM 02 and RLM 70 mottling. This gave me the effect I was looking for. C7C3EFB3-DEB6-424C-A91B-CA1A288B2186_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 6E230EF9-8962-45C3-8382-151C3CC59329_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr The second 109 has some garish geometric shapes on the fuselage and enough yellow tactical markings to effectively negate the camouflage. There are quite a few online builds of this kit and one of the best was by Andrea Brenco. He cut off the oiler cooler section from the lower wing and attached it separately. This would allow me to more easily paint a complex fuselage pattern, then attach the tight fitting wing with no problems. After seeing a published photo of this plane I knew that I had to build it and charged in. The only problem was that I assumed that in my extensive collection of decals the proper Yellow 8 would be lurking. Hours of searching, after fully painting the model, proved the folly of those thoughts. The 8 is unusual. It is taller than normal and the upper loop was smaller than the lower one. The only practical solution came in the form of a white 8 from a Third Group decal sheet. I cut a section from the upper section and applied it to the model. Some techniques I had used for coloring decals didn't work here, so I was left to painting the yellow over the white. What could possibly go wrong? Using very diluted Vallejo yellow I applied 8-10 coats. Each individually was nearly imperceptible and coloring outside the lines had no effect. The cumulative effect worked out. Then it was on to the usual burnt umber oil paint wash as the first step of weathering. 71C61928-C08A-4320-B323-8C28501F776A_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 7862FDA3-7474-489C-A913-B79A0DFB7DD1_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr C302F714-6C90-4274-A620-A44BEC490809_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr This about brings us up to the present. The horizontal stabs and their struts are on and canopies are unmasked. Not visible is the work done on the landing gear, brake lines, wheels ( with new Quick Boost resin replacements) and vac canopy center sections. AB7AE0E6-00D1-4C30-BDC9-79FBB68FB76D_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 95E8E9D2-18BA-4ED9-9966-11749E988EB4_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr A38A2CC9-672A-413D-9BAE-99067ADE94ED_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr C8D0BC79-6636-462F-8E19-759DD581A47F_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr Thanks for following along; hopefully you've found something useful.
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