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109 fan

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109 fan last won the day on January 22 2020

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About 109 fan

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    Greensburg, PA USA

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  1. Thanks, gentlemen. Web99, there are no major fit issues with this kit. The canopy is too wide but some sanding on the windscreen helped. I also cut the rear section in half, sanded it down and rejoined the pieces. You can find a much more detailed explanation of the basics in my earlier post on this site of another SH 109 E build.
  2. Getting closer. The first photo shows some pitot tubes I made from .2mm Albion Alloys brass tube. The brace was made by crimping the tube with pliers. This was then superglued to the tube. Here they have been primed with Mr. Surfacer 1000. 960F4B42-77A4-43C1-B2E8-5DC1CD5B5B1C_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr One of these birds will be a Jabo. I used a 250kg bomb from the ICM Bf 109 E-7 kit. The fin braces are heat stretched Evergreen strip. This gave me a good brace shape without having to cut thin sheet. 720D530C-B538-481A-B
  3. Let me echo what everyone has said, Libor. This is a superb build and your airbrush technique has never been displayed better. What particularly impresses me is the density that you achieved with the RLM 76 squiggle. This is incredibly difficult to achieve, and to get the uniform effect over the entire airframe is masterful! Bravo!! Barry
  4. Thank you, Johnson. I use burnt umber oil paint (a very dark brown) and thin it just slightly with odorless thinners. It is then applied with a small brush over all panel lines and rivets. This kit is already riveted, which saved quite a bit of time. After about 10-15 minutes I rub off the paint with dry Q-tips, horizontally on the wings and tail surfaces and vertically on the fuselage. I don't rub the paint completely off the airframe, but leave a little staining around the lines. Oil paint is very forgiving. If you're not happy with the result a wet Q-tip or paintbrush will remove most of it
  5. While building my first Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4, sinister plans were being hatched for further variants. These are the next two. As usually happens, we try different techniques as we progress. On this one I tried the newish AK paints on the cockpit. They are OK but have not knocked Gunze Sangyo (aka God's Paint) off their pedestal. I only used them on the interior and started by giving everything a dark base, in this case RLM 66 grey. This was followed by RLM 02 sprayed at an acute angle from above. This left a contrived shadow below all of the relief in the cockpit. CAA676CD
  6. DONE!!! It is such a rush to finish a model. I am really impressed with this kit. It is so close to perfect that the few little flaws that exist are just that much more annoying. A little more attention to these areas would have made this the best 1/72 kit that I have ever seen. I've outlined the plusses: separate slats and flaps, rivets, very nice cockpit and engine, oil canning on the skins on the wing, impeccable scribing and the best kit decals on the market; and the minuses: too wide canopy, too long main landing gear and a flimsy tail wheel strut that must be attached too early in the bu
  7. Thank you, Lewis. Yes, I have built 109s in Swiss, Hungarian, U.S., British, Japanese, French, Croatian, Spanish, Czeckoslovakian and even Iraqi what-if markings. Haven't done a Swiss E though. That is on the list, either one with a shark mouth or Swiss-built version, with different prop & spinner, plus bomb racks. Most of the others have been posted on these pages over the years. One thing about 109s, you never run out of schemes.
  8. Thank you, Jan. Once you push through some of the kit's challenges it becomes a tiny wonder. I mean, rivets! Oil canning on the upper wing surface! Beautifully detailed cockpit and wheels! I have two more on the bench right now. One is just a collection of the "also ran" pieces as I built two of them side by side. The other I will take seriously and add a bit of detailing. Honestly, this kit does't need much.
  9. Just a tease tonight. More progress on the Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4. She's on her gear now and the parts count is ticking down toward 1 (finished model). I had thought that the ridiculous main landing gear axles would create no end of problems. It is just a nub, not an axle and looked like there was no way this would support the wheel. I also tried something different. Usually I lightly attach the wheel to the axle using white glue or if I'm feeling feisty, 5 minute epoxy. These will allow quite a bit of adjusting time. For this one, I used Tamiya Extra Thin cement, applying it twice to t
  10. Thank you, gentlemen! More progress on the 1/72 Special Hobby Bf 109 E-4. I have a new favorite flat coat: Gunze Sangyo GX-113 Super Clear III UV Cut Flat. A mouthful, to be sure. There is also a GX-114 which does not concern itself with the effect of UV rays, but this one was in stock when I placed my order. As good as GX-100 gloss is, this one is its equal on the flat side. It is a lacquer so I assume it will be durable, but I just applied it last night and haven't handled it very much. Thinning it about 3/1 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner seems about right. It appears rather glo
  11. I've added the first round of oil washes and shading. This is the most transformative stage of the build in my opinion. This exposure burns in the white areas of the model. They do have a faint wash but it is not obvious here. This kit is really growing on me. 60036776-2461-45C7-882C-525030B92539_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr A7C4402A-B87B-4DE2-9529-6D3EA1CF687F_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr 6DEC237C-C026-47EB-ADF5-6A1E5985B6E0_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr C70D8857-6C82-4AB1-B210-87C80D0C3DCB_1_201_a by Barry Numerick, on Flickr
  12. Decalling is done on the Special Hobby 1/72 Bf 109 E-4. I have to say that these are not only the best kit decals I have even seen, they rival the best aftermarket decals on the market. They are exceptionally thin and react very well to Micro Set and Sol. The white on the national markings is extremely opaque. This may be the result of several layers of white ink being applied. The black sections settled down with just Micro Sol. On the white I dampened a Q-tip with Micro Sol and heavily rolled it over the decal. It then settled into panel lines beautifully. The decal sheet is very complete, w
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