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About Mattlow

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  • Birthday 09/15/1965

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    Devon, UK

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  1. As we've got a fire (stove) I tend to put the paper towel etc into it and set it alight (or leave it to vent fumes up the flue). Alternatively put material in a jar, leave outdoors to evaporate. I think it is theoretically possible for some of these to spontaneously combust (like Dutch oiled rags can), though I've not heard of it happening... In terms of paint on mating surfaces... scrape afterwards if they're accessible. If not, small strips of tape (eg Tamiya masking) will do the job. Matt
  2. Seat makes sense... as the occupant had to be able to turn around to face backwards to operate the rear gun or radios (if fitted)... You've set yourself a steep learning curve, don't set it too steep and become despondent... keep everything within reach and set yourself aims for each build... If you're a gunsmith (oiling gunstocks..?) then you are used to careful, precise work and that'll set you in really good stead... Much of successful modelling is taking care and being patient... specific skills will come through practise. Looking ahead, you could 'treat' yourself to a set of Eduard canopy masks for this beastie. You can do it yourself with some decent masking tape (Tamiya is very good - and much the same material that Eduard cut their masks from). Matt
  3. This is a nice kit. It is Revell's re-boxing of the Hasegawa kit. Harks from the 1970s but still holds up very well. It'll be a challenging first plastic kit build, mainly with the wing and undercarriage struts to attach and keep aligned. In the Hasegawa kit, the part of the undercarriage that goes into the canopy was made of wire (for strength) is that the case in the Revell boxing? Anyway, take it easy, let stuff dry thoroughly before moving on to next stage and you should be fine. Do a Google search to see if there are any on-line builds that may give you some pointers to construction... Matt
  4. Hi Nice work. Don't think the airbrake bay sticking out a little is an issue - think it is designed that way. Certainly is the case on the F-3 and the next part to the rear sits over the protruding parts - in fact this forms part of the pretty positive alignment.. Hopefully this is also the case on the GR4.. Matt
  5. Nice work My understanding regards the need to get the ramjet up to speed before it works is that each pod had a small rocket as well which would get the ramjet up to operational speed... I suspect anyone close to this project was very relieved when the war ended prior to any build and test proceeding.. More of a potential 'coffin' than the Me 163... Matt
  6. I know these are a bit of a hassle and we shouldn't expect some loser to be attacking the site, but let's not forget that a few years ago we'd be sat waiting for images to appear and re-loading pages when the 'net was much flakier than it is now and dial up was the main form of access. I try to remind myself, when 'superfast' gets bogged down, that all we used to have was 'super slow'.. Matt
  7. Maybe just add the A-5 gun set. That'd give you the MG 17s and their decking and the smaller cover...? Less expense. Matt
  8. Eduard Brassin 1/72 Focke-Wulf Fw 190A-5 Engine # 672117 That'd take any guess work out of it..
  9. Good point. A-5 wasn't slated for MG 131 so I think the armament they're talking about was the wing armament? Nothing changed at the rear, so it is all happening around the wing/mid-fuselage. I think it is the bringing in of more exotic, heavier wing weapons and the increasing use of the centreline rack for drop tank and bombs (either actual or envisaged). The A-8 had the MW 50 tank installation behind the cockpit which shifted the centre of gravity backward and, as a cure, the under-fuselage mounted ETC 501 bomb rack was moved 20 cm forward. This rack became a standard from the A-8 model. Matt
  10. Hi From IPMS Stockholm's excellent account of the 190s versions and changes. Fw 190 A-5 On the basis of data collected during tests of the experimental Fw 190A3/U1, Blaser's designer team became convinced that the planned additional armament would move the plane centre of gravity forward. The best solution to offset this was to move the engine forward. This was done with a 15 cm steel tube engine mount extension. This change (new engine mount) was introduced on the all production lines. It also led to an increase of the plane length to 9.10 m So you should be fine for taking the engine and putting it into an A-5 airframe. The F-8 was essentially a ground attack A-8 and so the engine arrangement is identical (there may have been some armour around the lower cowl, but doubtful it'd show up in this scale). Matt
  11. Looks really good, especially as an initial foray into weathering... My advice, generally speaking, is to look at as many photographs of the real thing as you can. That'll show you how the real vehicle looked (don't rely on restorations). Then it's a case of how you want to interpret those images - this is an interpretation of reality and that gives you scope to create the effect you're after, not just slavishly trying to be 'realistic'.. Hope that helps. Matt
  12. Nice start John You've got the battery cover. The other main difference is the MW50 filler on the stbd fuselage spine opposite the fuel filler (which is on the port side). Can't recall if it is on Revell kit and they ask you to fill it? Now, I'm not 100% in my recollection, but I think that many ERLA WNF G-14s had MK 108 engine cannon which means different breech cover in the 'pit, slightly different opening in the spinner and retention of the circular cover on the stbd side around where the lower arm of the Balkankreuz sits - this was compressed air filler for MK 108 cocking. Revell has this in place I recall. Finally for the MK108 cannon there's a gun gas vent just behind the rearmost stbd exhaust. It's just a circular hole (I have photo of this on a G-10 I can upload). MK108 exhaust vent annotated by Matt Low, on Flickr Also I believe many of the ERLA produced G-14s (and later G-10s) incorporated an obsolete cover, again on the stbd side behind and below the MW50 filler. This had been incorporated in Bf109G-6 aircraft that had the GM1 boost system. The cover was access to a pressure release valve or similar. ERLA continued to use these panels with the cutout , as I said, well into G-10 production - it's a bit of a diagnostic for ID-ing and ERLA G-10. This image shows the additional GM1 related cover, above the 1. Also of course shows the MW50 filler cover at the apex of the MW50 triangular symbol. https://www.flickr.com/photos/28092068@N03/6985122012/in/album-72157625539886908/ Another. MW50 filler on spine, GM1 cover below and behind and nearest us is the primer fuel cover (all versions had this. https://www.flickr.com/photos/28092068@N03/7846935074/in/album-72157625539886908/ Matt
  13. Very nice I had no sense of how big this was while you were building it. Makes the achievement that much greater.. Matt
  14. Good work on the nose restoration... that'll look good and be much stronger than the original. I always avoided the Lone Star conversion (I have a Koster one somewhere) as the quality was often totally abysmal.. your photos do little to revive LS's reputation.. It looks like it's been cast in cheese that's started to melt.... Matt
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