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Posted (edited)

I know a lot of folks on various web-sites complained when this little kit came on the market, but I honestly don't know what all the fuss was about. What you see here was accomplished with little Tipp-Ex and a couple of sheets of fine wet'n dry.... Ahh well, here's the pics of the progress so far:

E101.jpg

E102.jpg

E103.jpg

E104.jpg

The only additions that I've made so far is an Ultracast seat and some wiring behind the IP. I'll be adding Ultracast exhausts and wheels later. This one is going to be a 112Sqn machine using Tally Ho decals.

Thanks for looking, as usual all comments, crits and questions are welcome. Thanks for looking.

Ian

Edited by Ian
Posted

Looks nice Ian... plenty of filler, eh?

Question: Is the marker pen there as a temporary aid to getting the camoflage right, or are you planning on painting over the pen? Be quite wary of it if you are planning on painting over it, as marker has a penchant of bleeding through your paint. Go on... ask me how I know :blush:

Posted

Hi,

Question about the use of tipex.. Can that cover up a faint seam line??? also ,do you sand it wet or dry.

Cheers,

Neil.

Posted

Hi Neil.... yes it is excellent for filling small seam lines and scratches. I always rub down with lots of water, then polish with an old piece of T-shirt.

Ian

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hey!...where'd the squiggly lines go?...

Looks good Ian...looking forward to seeing the finished item.

Posted
Hey!...where'd the squiggly lines go?...

Looks good Ian...looking forward to seeing the finished item.

Ive borrowed them for my Buffalo!

I also see Ian is a member of the "add the tailplanes after painting school" I could never get my head round that one- so fair play to him.

Best way to represent anti slip tread areas of wing roots anybody?

Posted
Best way to represent anti slip tread areas of wing roots anybody?

Try a fine wet n dry cut to shape and sprayed over very lightly. You just need to make sure you dont leave any leading edges showing obviously.

Posted

Good morning Mr.Mentalguru sir.

i've found the best way to do the anti-slip areas is to do it after all the painting, mask off the area and then brush paint it with matt acrylic. This leaves it slighty raised and textured, looking like anti-slip paint that's been applied...well...sort of, but it's a representation of it amnyway.

have a nice day now.

Posted

Ian I think you made a better job on P-47 than this.as I can see the cockpit looks weel but the pic are a bit far.

Regards.

Héctor

Posted

This is looking good. I've never had much luck with tippex, seems to shrink and crack and no good for rescribing, but you seem to be doing OK! - I must have been be doing something wrong?

Swear by Mr Dissolved Putty now, though. OK it shrinks a bit but it sees to be more "one" with the plastic and takes rescribes with no probs.

Interested to see how you get on with the decals, I've heard "mixed" reviews of them (fine for printing and register but so-so in application).

This will be a Kittyhawk I? I get confusificated between the US designations and UK ones - I think P-40E = Kittyhawk I?

Posted (edited)

Ian,

This is what I do for anti-slip areas. I paint everything first, then mask off the area. I then liberally apply Mr. Surfacer 500 and stiple with a brush. Once that is dry, paint it the correct color and your done! I hope that helps. Your P-40 is coming along very well. I look forward to seeing the finished product.

-Doug :)

Edited by Royale Resin
  • 9 months later...
Posted

Almost a year this wee thing has been sitting forlornly on the work bench. Wasn't able to get the time to take/post any pics this afternoon, so you'll have to settle for a quick word picture.

When I pre-shaded it last spring, my faithful (thirteen year old) entry-level AZTEK was leaking air and the seals were pretty much perished therefore the lines weren't up to my normal standard. I put the thing back in the to-do pile with an eye to replacing the AZTEK with another. I did that in the summer and promptly forgot all about the P-40 completely.

Until today.

I dug it out again because I have a WHAT IF project planned that will use DAF colours, so I decided to correct my 'over enthusiastic' pre shading by carefully dry-brushing white into the centre of the panels - a little like post-shading with an airbrush - the overall effect once the top coats go on should be to fade-out the camouflage a wee bit more than I would normally do but let's be honest if you don't experiment every now and again you never stretch yourself, right ?

And what's the worst that can happen..... the whole thing could end-up looking like a dog's dinner :sick::puke: in which case I'll strip the whole thing down and have another go ! - Hopefully some pics tomorrow.

Ian

Posted

Got to the paint-shed this morning: Here's one third of the results (the other two are What Ifs). Xtracolour Azure Blue dulled a little with Humbrol Lt Gull Grey (H129)

E106a.jpg

E106b.jpg

As ever all comments, crits and questions are welcome. Thanks for looking (again).

Ian

Posted

Some self-explanatory progress shots from the last wekk or so:-

E107a.jpg

E107b.jpg

E107c.jpg

E107d.jpg

E108a.jpg

E108b.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Ian

Posted

(Tally Ho) Decals on, panel lines washed with Paynes Grey:-

E109c.jpg

E109a.jpg

E109b.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Ian

Posted

Good old GA*Y, the Desert Queen. If there was fuss over this kit, you put it to rest.

It looks the danglies.

Posted

That is looking SWEEEEEET now Ian :wub:

Nice work on the underside streaking too, such a feature of WW2 fighters, so often ignored in the weathering.

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