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Pocher F40 with Autograph transkit upgrade challenge build

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Here's where I left off with the rear frame some months ago with the PE just mocked up on the rear frame. I had already made a number of cuts and removed quite a few molded on plastic cross members in preparation to add the PE. It's been sitting on the bench staring at me for months and it's time to get on with it. 




The PE has been removed to continue work on the frame and remove the additional sections that, I realized that still needed to be removed.




Ready for battle with reference, my list and the parts.




Here's the areas that need to be removed. The top circle is an area that needs to cleaned up for the brass PE piece to sit down level. The small circle in the corner shows that, even after cutting out the section before, I still need to clean it up and square up the corners.




Before cutting




After cutting and again, the small circle shows more clean up required after making this cut. You can only get so close when cutting out these sections and the plastic very thick and heavy. I think that, it's actually ABS and has kind of a nylon texture, definitely not polystyrene plastic.





Everywhere I look there's more clean up to be done from the first frame section removal.




These Xacto knife blades are really handy for getting into all the angles and removing the excess. As you can see, I have a lot of cleaning up to do before I move on with any PE work. I want all the frame sections to be smooth and square before the PE gets glued on.





Almost cleaned up. I still need to turn it every which way and make sure every side of every brace is clean. I know that there's still a few small spots that need to be finished up but, I'm close.







Tomorrow, I should be able to start fitting the brass that's already done and more that's in the pan. 

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Very meticulous work there Wayne!  It really is a lot of material to remove but the final product will be worth it.  I didn't appreciate how extensive the modifications are to the frame.  


I like your reference bible.  With a build this complex you need lots of pics to figure out where all the PE/struts go.  Unfortunately there is no Paul Koo DVD to guide builders.   You have to create your own

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Thanks Rich. Yeah, there's a lot going on the frame and with the whole transkit in general. You really have to be thinking about what else has to be done when you are doing something. Because the instructions tend to jump around some, you almost have to review every page as you are doing one to see if there's something else that needs modification five or ten steps later. And does that, needs to be thought about or done now. It's not exactly a Tamiya kit. My biggest problem is, I can't sit down and work on it every day and I have to go back over things each time I sit down to make sure I'm not missing something that's why I keep a note pad next to the reference material. 

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I'm having the same issue with the Tommaso Iuele transkit.  There is no instruction book that gives the step sequences!  You just have to look at the pics, scratch build some things, and assemble as much as you can on the engine block before installing into the frame.  There are also a lot of transkit pieces for the frame itself- oil coolers, pipes, clamps, hoses, fans, etc. that must be installed first before the engine can be mated.  It seems that I am rather left to my own devices- which I have to say that I'm enjoying!  Keep at it, this is a brilliant deconstruct/reconstruct project for you and I can't wait to see all of those transkit parts on that F40!!



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Thanks Darin, you're definitely right about being left to your own devices. I make a lot of notes and try and write down my own sequence of operation based on what I've read in the instructions and reference materials from other builds that have been documented on other websites and forums. My own observations from looking at everything give me what I feel is a logical progression to build and I write it into my notes. Of course things change frequently but, I at least feel like I have a good plan each time I sit down to work on it.

At the moment, I'm done cleaning up the frame and I can move forward with attaching the various pieces of PE. Tonight I discovered that two small braces didn't line up with the main white metal cross brace holes. So, I'm going to have to make some corrections on their locations before I glue the two largest PE pieces to the shock towers. I'm thinking that if I bolt the WM part to the top of each piece then I can unsolder the two lower brackets and then bolt the other end of the WM piece to them and then just solder them back on and the location will be exactly where they should be. Just an example of figuring things out as you go along. Hopefully, I will have some decent progress pictures tomorrow or the next day.

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Excellent progress Wayne.  That frame could be glass-filled nylon....do you see little swirls in the matte finish?   If so, they add that glass for stiffness, as that is a pretty heavy model.  Glass filled nylon is also a beast on Exacto blades- tough stuff to cut!


Keep at it- I'm like you, a little bit here and there.  It should be an adventure, considering how much we paid for it! :)



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It wouldn't surprise me if it was glass filled nylon. It does have a feeling of nylon plastic about it. Tonight, I took a couple of steps back on getting the brackets on the frame. My screw up totally; when I tried to connect the white metal cross brace and then re-position the two lower braces I wound up melting the white metal lower rods when I tried to solder the brass back on the "A" frame. 

The rear frame is finished and ready for the PE




Started with getting the rear cross member attached to re-position the lower brackets. You can see that with the lower brackets mounted in what is supposed to be the correct locations they don't line up. Red circle on the right shows how much lower the arm extends than the left one circled in green/




Here I've attached the upper section and you can see the ends circled in red that melted off; total brain fart!





A close up of the melted end still bolted in the bracket, oops! This bracket was moved down and reattached but, melted the end off.




I have some thoughts on how to fix this and I will see which one will work the best. I'm going to remove a few of the brass brackets and clean up the solder and then try and solder them back on more cleanly. I'm going to have to use brass rod in place of the lower white metal rods so, I guess I'll just have scratch build new rods. I expect that in the long run they will probably fit better. At this point it's just better to remove everything and start over. One other thing that, I discovered when using the bolts to attach things to the WM and brass is that, the holes in all these parts are too small for the bolts. I had to drill out all the parts for the bolts to fit. This would have been good to know before bending and soldering them. So, the tip here is if there are any brass PE parts that will require bolts to go through them, be sure and drill out the holes prior to even cutting them off the PE sheet; you'll save a lot of time and aggravation. 


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