BigN69 Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 After doing some research I can see why you went with cutting these supports for a more authentic look. I am torn on removing these on mine as the rear end is already cleaned up and painted. I’m wondering now if Pocher added these to prevent sagging of the rear end. It will be quite a bit of weight cantilevered onto the remaining plastic attachment point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 (edited) I updated this post to add the pictures to show what I meant about the weight distribution of the body. I understand what you're saying but, I'm not worried about the weight back there. Most of the weight of the body will be forward of the rear attachment point. The two round screw holes only carry the weight of the rear lower panel. The weight of the rear bonnet is mainly on the main body with a little being on the rear panel. If you look at the last pictures with the rear bonnet on, the weight is all forward on the main body on the rear roof line and quarter panels. The rear lower panel actually will need the two added braces to hold the weight of the rear panel up to the rear bonnet. So, there really won't be much weight on it, it's all supported on the main body before it gets there. Here you can see the gap between the bonnet and the rear panel. The two square stub outs that are now left there hanging in space will get brass rods that attach to the rear lower panel. So, in addition to the panel being screwed to the frame it will have two rods extending to the panel as well. I was also wondering about removing so much of the plastic frame but, having handled it for so long and knowing just how strong the plastic is, I'm not worried about it. I think that Pocher might have purposely over built the frame because of some of the issues with the "classic" kits and the sagging frames. With the F-40 some of it was hidden and frankly it was more like a large toy rather than a detailed model. Do you have any pictures of your build that you can share? I'm sure everyone would like to see something besides my frame. I haven't had much time this week to do anything on mine as, I've been dealing with two of our real cars but, hopefully I can get something done this weekend. Edited February 4, 2018 by larchiefeng Add pictures 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 This is just a short update post tonight. So, since I received the missing metal engine parts I decided to switch gears a little and do some assembly on it. One of the parts I received was one side of the engine block and as I started putting it together I noticed that something was off. The picture below shows what I ran into. The Scale Details engine is the one in the back and the new one is in the foreground. As you can see, the standoff posts are way too short. The red circles show the difference in lengths. After some thought, I grabbed the trusty 1/8" aluminum tubing and the ID fit perfectly over the pins and with the correct drill bit the OD now fits in the other side of the block. A little filing and test fitting and it's a perfect fit. I know that this isn't a big deal and really isn't that post worthy but, it's here just to illustrate how handy and necessary it is to have an assortment of scratch building supplies on hand. Where I live it's necessary to have this kind of stuff on hand in order to keep working and not stop to go buy what I need. The new engine is taking shape and here it is next to the old SD engine. Fitting the oil pan and valve covers. The gangs all here! The kit engine, the Scale Details engine and the new Thunder Valley engine. I want to get the basic engine assembled so I can test the fit inside the frame and make any adjustments before I finish it and paint it. I figured that I'd better do this now so there are no big surprises later. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 More great work on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 2 hours ago, kpnuts said: More great work on this. Agreed! Cheers, H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 This an update of sorts but, not on the car. I've been having a hard time with space to work and simultaneously work on the model. When I need to reference something on the computer I have to get up and go over to the desk. Over there there isn't any room or enough light to do anything while I'm looking at the computer. Even the space for the instruction book binder is too small on the corner of the workbench. It was getting to the point that I started hating to sit down and work on the car. So, I decided to do what had to be done so, I can have what I need where I need it. This is almost like having the scratch building supplies at hand when I need them, it's the same principal. I don't know how this is going to work with the card table next to the chair because it's a little tighter but, I really wanted the laptop on the bench for reference. Originally, I was just going to put it on the table but, it fits on the left corner. I can always move it to the table when I need more space up top. I took some before and after pictures, these are the before as if you couldn't tell. You can see that the book really doesn't have much room on the bench let alone the laptop. Now, I have room for both and as I was doing this, I cleaned up a bunch of stuff and rearranged various containers to easier to reach. I moved the classic Pocher jig off to the buildup and the built up F40 as well as the resistance soldering machine. I also needed to redo all the electrical outlets in order to have an extension cord at the table to plug in the Dremel or small soldering iron when needed. I got tired of having to crawl around on the floor to plug things in when needed. Now, I just grab the extension and plug in without getting out of the chair. I also swapped the lights from one side to the other mainly because the big light is on a floor stand and was really crowding things on the right side. The other light actually need the plug in on the right instead of the left so, it worked out. These are just a bunch of changes that come about after working in a space for a while and realizing what's not working. Looking at the after pictures, you can see how much better it is, from a reference perspective now, that the laptop is on the bench top and the book is on the table. The arrangement is much better and things are cleaned up, for now. I'm sure as soon as I start dragging things back out it will get crowded again but, I'll have to put things around the laptop because it's not going anywhere. I should actually have something to post on the model over the weekend. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigN69 Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 So you are not using the white metal supports for the lower rear body part? Is it not correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC2012 Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 That's some man cave you've got there! 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Thanks PC, I do enjoy coming down and being in my own little hobby shop. I started buying kits about 20 years ago with the intention of having a bunch of kits available when I retired. However, as you can see, it got a little out of hand and I'll never be able to build even 5% of the kits but, they're fun to look at. Big, nope, I screwed up and only saw the rods on a drawing and I totally forgot about the two rear white metal braces. This is kind of the problem with the transkit; there's so much going on that you tend to over look things no matter how many times you read the instructions. I also ran into another issue which I will show you guys. These two issues aren't actually really shown or discussed until, down in steps 25 and 34a. And I'm only working back in step 18a and b for the rear frame and steps 10 - 17 on the engine so you really aren't thinking to look that far ahead. This post is kind of a screw up highlight reel. First, we have the first issue that, I came across when I tried mocking up the main body onto the frame. You can see what happened when I put the body on over the frame in the red circles. The body didn't clear the new PE brackets for the cross brace rod off the shock tower to the upper right corner of the body. So, I started thinking, where did I screw up? Was it the body or the PE? Turns out that in step 34a it shows where the body has been trimmed in order to remove any parts that would interfere with the new PE. All it says is "prepare Pocher X14 according to photo". Not something that really jumps out at you and even though I looked at the step I really didn't register that I should be cutting the body. This is something that, I probably would have done months ago when I was painting the body. Next is a correction that Big just brought to my attention. i was fully aware of the these white metal pieces and knew where they went but, I didn't realize that the upper part of the rod actually connects to the end of the frame. I thought that they were just down inside the rear lower panel to provide support for the oil coolers etc. After he asked the question, I went into the instructions and really looked closely on the computer with the picture enlarged. It was then that I saw the additional parts that go on the end of the upper rod that finish the attachment points. The last post on February 2, I had laid out a couple of rods shown coming off the end of the frame and that was totally wrong. This is what Big is talking about and how it should look. Just mocked up for now. The other thing that, I've been doing is, I got a coat of primer on the frame. I saw a lot of funky little gaps and areas that needed cleaning up so, I put a coat of putty on a few of the those areas. The screw up here was, the putty was old and dry so, it looks like . I had another, newer tube and, I went over some of it. Tonight I sanded it all down and I will float a new clean smooth coat over this mess and continue to clean up some of the edges on the plastic. In the course of all this, I managed to break off all four of the small tabs on these PE brackets and had to solder each one back on. So, with all the set backs and screw ups, I did put this aside for a few days before I went back at it. Hopefully, I can get things cleaned up and the frame painted so I can get back on track over the weekend. A lot of, two steps forward one step back, lately. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 You are surely sweating the details here Wayne. The body interference can probably be clearanced with a touch from a Dremel sanding drum. Then a drop of the body black on a brush touched on the spot should make it undetectable. Just protect the whole body from the flying debris of the drum... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 It is amazing how much planning needs to go into this build. You almost have to go through every step of the instructions and mentally build the whole car. Hopefully the body modifications are not severe and can be easily touched up. It seems like this will be pretty well hidden on the final car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigN69 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 I also removed the metal posts towards the rear of the lower rear body. It was a total pain in the bottom. Wish I could figure out how to get my pics in here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 10 minutes ago, BigN69 said: I also removed the metal posts towards the rear of the lower rear body. It was a total pain in the bottom. Wish I could figure out how to get my pics in here. Here you go Big: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235008824-how-do-i-post-pictures/ There are other specific picture hosts covered in the FAQ section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Still going strong Wayne. Yes the rear of the central part of the body needs a bit more cutting and modifiying. Another step that isn't clearly marked in the instructions. It's a shame that there are now 2 companies selling metal engines and gearboxes that are just plain copies of the Pocher original. With a bit of extra work, they could have changed the inaccuracies of the original from Pocher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 I still haven't cut the main body yet but, I have continued on cleaning up the frame. This has been slow going just because of where it is and trying get the putty applied without a lot of mess and then trying to sand in between all the frame sections. So, it's been putty, sand, putty, sand and then a coat of primer to see where I'm at. Yeah, Big, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress and where you're at. Pascal, I'm glad to see that, you're still at it. I agree about the metal engines and needless to say, I've been disappointed with the fact that they just copied the kit parts in metal. There was definitely a better way to do the block and top end. Anyway, it's sitting off to the side for the moment while I finish cleaning up the frame. After I took these pictures I started looking at some reference pictures and realized that I needed to clean up a small section around the round hole areas at the very rear of the frame. The cleaned up pictures are not here but, I'll point out what I did in the next post. As far as the special mixture of materials that I originally used for the rear firewall on the interior; it was a combination of etching powder and flocking. The problem turned out to be it was easily damaged when I tried handling the interior. So. I wound up using Faux Fabrix black interior spray paint. I really liked the flocking combo but, it just didn't stand up to handling. This paint is a good alternative. So, here's a few pictures of the rear frame and it's almost ready for some black paint. Turned out that I needed to shim this braket that holds the air box "L" bracket and then I had to putty it to cover that up Other side before After The side that got extra putty behind the bracket Head on Not much but, I figured that as long as I was responding I should add a few pictures. I'm getting there and I'm not trying to rush things. I would rather try and spend however much time it takes to try and get a decent result. Next, I show the small modification I made and it should be black with all the braces back in place. And then I can go back to the engine and continue working on the rear control arms and brakes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Glad your back on this mate.....always a pleasure to see your work Certainly a mammoth task you have given yourself Respect Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Thanks Ron. Here's the small detail that I spoke of and when noticed I removed it on both sides. The area inside the red circles. It was just sloppiness on my part that I didn't take care of before now. I had to put a small amount of putty on the other side so, when I sand it tomorrow I should be ready to shoot the frame black. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 I was having a conversation with Rich this morning and he remarked just how different the frame looked from the Pocher kit frame. I've been so deep into it that, I really hadn't given it much thought but, I thought that it would be a good time for a quick comparison between the two. Original Now I managed to make some corrections and drilled out the remaining holes for the rear supports and fixed the holes in the frame section that were off. I got the first coat of black on the frame this afternoon and when it's dry enough I'll be able to take a closer look at it but, for now here it is not in primer. More later after some more paint and things start getting put back on that were removed for painting. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 A beautiful, more accurate foundation. All that head-scratching has paid off Wayne. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 thanks for the before and after shots. It is hard to imagine that the big hunk of Pocher nylon plastic turned into that beautiful frame. Incredible work and determination Wayne. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC2012 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 I've no idea what that is but.....wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 (edited) Thanks guys, it's been a lot more work than I originally thought it would be. Time wise between posting it seems like it took forever but, in real time it was probably a week or two of actual working time. I kinda blow hot and cold when working. If things are going well I stay energized and motivated but, if I run into a problem, I tend to put it aside and think through the possibilities of a repair/recovery. The other thing has been going back and forth through the instructions to make sure that I have thought of everything that will come into play on the area that I'm working on. Today, for instance, I found in the second to last step where some parts are being put on that really needed to be taken into consideration 30 steps prior. PC, I suppose it does kind of look like an erector set sitting on a lazy Susan, lol When I get another couple coats of paint on it, I'll set it correctly with the main body so you can see it in relation to the rest of the car. Edited March 12, 2018 by larchiefeng spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 OK, PC here's a few pictures for you tonight. I finally finished the painting on the frame and I managed to get most of the small parts bolted back on. So, here's a little progression from the painted bare frame to it with the rods and braces back on and then positioned under the main body. I still haven't made the cuts on the body for the frame to sit in the body properly but, that is on the agenda for this week. Just painted Sitting under the body prior to the attachment of the braces and rods With the braces on With the body sitting on the finished frame Obviously, the rear suspension still needs to be put on as well as many other things but, the basic frame is done. Anything from here on is going to be things that get attached to the frame but, it's at least ready for that. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC2012 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Ahhh it makes sense now. Incredible work, truly outstanding! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Well done sir! A fine step in fact... Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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