Airbrushing acrylics

[Plumbum]

I have a Badger double action airbrush and a compressor with moisture

trap and regulator. I am up to try my hand at air brushing. I would like some

non toxic paint, guessing acrylic? How is Humbrol for air brushing? Need their

cleaner and thinner? Do they have the latest and greatest assortment of

military colors? Thanks---John

[MagyarMatt]

Humbrol acrylics are very hit and miss. The greys and whites I've tried give a very coarse and bitty finish. the greens and browns turned out much better looking but still a coarse finish.

Tried a bit of Vallejo recently and that went on beautifully so I'm waiting on an order for a load more.

I'm a beginner with airbrushing though so someone with more experience may be able to tell you how to get the best out of Humbrol acrylics.

[Mitch K]

My personal experience would say avoid Humbrol like the plague! I use Tamiya and they work flawlessly thinned with isopropanol.

[Pat C]

I would try Gunze Aqueous Acrylics or Tamiya as both are fairly forgiving if you are new to airbrushing.

Pat

[oggy4624]

New to airbrushing, Vallejo model air is your best bet.

Airbrushable straight out of the bottle, but can be thinned if you want.

Gunze / Tamiya , I found best best thinned 1:1:1 paint /water /isopropanol

Edited May 9, 2016 by oggy4624

[Cookenbacher]

Humbrol acrylics are difficult to spray, but it can be done.

Humbrol, Lifecolor and Vallejo are water based acrylics and Tamiya is alcohol based. If you don't mind some 'chemicals' Tamiya is very nice, and you can get away without a primer, it bonds to plastic quite well. The water based acrylics are much more delicate and work best over a primer.

I agree with Oggy, Vallejo Model Air (VMA) is a good place to start as you don't need to thin it if you don't want to, just put a few drops in the cup and you're ready to practice. Badger Stynylrez is a water based primer that is quite complimentary to VMA paints, and unlike Vallejo primers, it can be sanded when dry.

[LaurieS]

Acrylic Paints are water soluble. Humbrol Tamiya Vallejo etc.all are made with water soluble acrylic resins.

Tamiya has a lacquer dryer which is toxic.

Vallejo Model Air are all certified non- toxic. Vallejo Model are mostly non toxic. Those that are not are marked on the bottle as such..

Vallejo Air which I use are made specifically for airbrushing. But many do thin some for a mist first coat before a full coat. There is no reason

for not thinning. Provided you use Vallejo thinners which are the basis of the paint the integrity of the paint will not be compromised. If you

use water as a thinner then this will dilute the paints integrity. Flattening out to a smooth finish and also it's stickabiltiy will be impaired.

Vallejo Air produce approx 120 colours and rising. They produce 16 primer colours plus polyurethene and acrylic varnishes in matt satin and gloss.

For very detailed info on Model Air try these.

Laurie

http://cdn.acrylicosvallejo.com/a2f0ee542f409571d9011ecc2aa1dd4b/CC071-Rev17-baja.pdf

http://cdn.acrylicosvallejo.com/3125a70282d7ae1b26302b70f227e502/model-FAQS-CC001-rev03.pdf

Just add an edit. Humbrol is not easy to airbrush and you will need to thin a lot. In my opinion OK for hadn brushing detail but not for airbrushing. Also add Mig, Lifecolor and AK are all good paints similar to Vallejo Air. Plus Vallejo have recently started marketing a range of metalic paints which are first class.

Next though I have mentioned Vallejo primer, silly boy, use Stynylrez by Badger it surpasses all primers on the market for plastic. Dries quickly, snads after an hour does not pull away from the plastic, sands to a feather edge, you can use a lacquer filler with out it acting as a paint remover.. Stop stop stop.

Edited May 9, 2016 by LaurieS

[Bigglesof266]

How is Humbrol for air brushing? Need their

cleaner and thinner? Do they have the latest and greatest assortment of

military colors?

+1 to avoid Humbrol acrylics. Why summarised in a word. Rubbish.

If you're starting out, one word. Tamiya.

They have a solid if not the largest range of colours. However mixing can achieve the optimum for those not satisfied with the recommended OOTB shades.

Why Tamiya?

1. Distribution and availability. Notably - more widely available everywhere in the world outside Asia than GSI Creos.
2. Ease of use (airbrushing)
3. Quality and consistency

Tamiya acrylics spray fabulously. They really have no vices other than being beyond dreadful for application by brush OOTB. This can be overcome with Tamiya's new Retarder product, also useful but not generally necessary for airbrushing..

Use their own X-22A thinners with them. They can be thinned with other solvents, but X-22A or Tamiya's lacquer thinners works best. They are not a pure water based acrylic. Many cheap cleanup solvent options.

They spray exceptionally well at a range of pressures through any decent airbrush. Pigments and opacity are superb, as is hardness and resilience once dry. If you have decent tools and can't achieve the finish you want using Tamiya, the reason isn't either the materials or tools.

Vallejo Model Air Color are also very good for airbrushing, but IME are much more finicky to use. Being pre-thinned ready to use OOTB (they can still be thinned depending upon colour, pigmentation and spraying pressure), work out to be more expensive now that Vallejo have established the brand. as someone else has elaborated, they are resin based water thinnable. MIG and AK Interactive are clones.

Lifecolor are good and exceptional value at the moment, similarly resin based to the above, but IME more difficult to use. Lifecolor tend to be a hate them or love them thing. I'm in between. I like them, but they are not for beginners IME.

As an all rounder, and most notably the stand out in end user friendliness, Tamiya acrylics really are the standard to beat IMV.

[LaurieS]

Just to clear a point which many are just getting the wrong side of.

Vallejo, Tamiya, Lifecolor, Mig use water soluble acrylic resin. They are not water based they are water soluble.

Each has their own dryers thinners which are "water soluble".

Pure water has a molecular tension which is most unsuitable for the application of paint. Place a blob of water

on a work top. It stands there and depending on the amount will form a puddle with high rounded edges. It

sticks together due to it's surface tension. Place a thinner for paint in the same way and it falls flat on it's face

distributing itself across the work top. It flattens out water does not. Which is why it is best to use the paint's

manufacturers thinners.

Could some one tell me what IME IMV OOTB

Sorry to disagree Biggles. work out to be more expensive now that Vallejo have established the brand

I can buy Vallejo at .10 per ml. Tamiya cost .12 per ml. Peanuts difference.

Why Tamiya?

1. Distribution and availability. Notably - more widely available everywhere in the world outside Asia than GSI Creos.
2. Ease of use (airbrushing)
3. Quality and consistency

But so are all the others especially Vallejo as the largest producer of model art and craft paints in the world.

Tamiya acrylics spray fabulously. They really have no vices other than being beyond dreadful for application by brush

But so do all the others.

They spray exceptionally well at a range of pressures through any decent airbrush.

I airbrush Lifecolor at 10 PSI through a .2 needle/nozzle.for effects with a 50/50 paint/Vallejo Flow improver. I can

leave this mix standing for an hour in the airbrush and pick up a short practice squirt and away I go.

I would say that any one looking for a paint to use should buy a small bottle of a number. Vallejo Tamiya and

Lifecolor. There is little to choose between all of them. It is a very personal preference. The most important factor is to

practice and practice airbrushing. A good air brusher will provide equal quality of all the paints mentioned.

Laurie

[Raven Morpheus]

Never tried airbrushing humbrol (as far as I recall).

I have mainly used Vallejo but they seem to be a bit hit and miss, with some being very very thin and un-sprayable (like their #2 Yellow) I've also found they clog my cheap airbrushes and I can't seem to clean them well enough, thus after about 6 months my airbrushes pack up on me and I have to spend another £10-20 on a new one, I bought a H&S Ultra recently and I'm hoping that it works fine straight out of the box considering I've used it once already - usually I have to do a complete strip and clean first thing in a painting session before I can use an airbrush...

I have recently started to move over to Tamiya and Model Master.

The Tamiya paints when thinned 50/50 with UMP thinners go down very nicely, at least the XF one's do. I used them exclusively on my TIE Fighter, I believe the same is true of my 1/48 Spitfire (although I might have used Vallejo or Model Master for some colours), and I've used them again on my X-Wing. Compared to using Vallejo I've found them a joy to use, very few problems if any, I find that so long as my airbrush is spraying properly I know it will spray the Tamiya paint I put in it just fine...

The few Model Master paints I've got also work well, but I'm not sure yet of the thinning ratios for them, the UMP thinning chart states they should be thinned by 35% but I tried that on the OD I used on one of my Hueys and the paint was too thin, but un-thinned it seems a little too thick for my airbrushes.

I'm still trying to work out how to get Tamiya Clear and Model Master (or any brand) gloss paints to airbrush well though, they've given me the most problems with clogging, and the Tamiya Clear paints don't seem to like thinning, I tried it with their clear smoke and I couldn't see any significant colour being put down and just ended up with a clear wet mess! If I don't thin it though it seems too thick and won't airbrush nicely like the Tamiya flat paints do!

That's my experience so far, having only started airbrushing a year or two ago so if I were to advise someone on what brand to use I'd say (based on only needing to paint matt paint) try to stick to Tamiya unless you need a colour they don't have.

Edited May 10, 2016 by Raven Morpheus

[Plumbum]

Thanks, sounds like I will give Tamiya a go. So is it best to thin Tamiya 50-50? And you say

there gloss won't air brush, so shoot flat and gloss coat for gloss effect? The majority of my work is

with military flat colors, but occasionally need gloss or semi gloss. How do Tamiya's metals

spray? I do a lot of NMF.---John

[Raven Morpheus]

Yes, 50/50 if you use UMP thinners like I do. Can't speak about anything else.

Not saying gloss won't air brush, but my experience so far has not been good with any gloss paint (mainly based on bad experience with Model Master Chevy Engine Red, I think Tamiya Clear paints might be gloss also though). I'm probably doing something wrong though because others have advised me they should spray perfectly well. YMMV.

Never used their metals for a NMF so can't tell you about them (although I do have their XF-18 flat aluminium ready for a planned Air America Huey), I think the only one I've used is XF-84 Dark Iron, and that went down fine on the small areas I used it on. That's an XF paint though so it's flat and I'm not sure it's considered a metal paint. They have metals in both gloss (X range of paints) and flat (XF range of paints).

[Rich G]

I'm going to try and keep this simple, the order of quality I have found with acrylics for airbrushing are;

1. Mr Hobby (Not that easy to get hold of in the UK as you mainly get them online from select retailers, but by far the best IMO)

2. Tamiya (easily available but you often have to mix to achieve certain colours)

3. Vallejo (Getting better every year with the extra colours being added to the range)

4. Mig/Hataka (different companies but both have similar qualities, on par wiith Vallejo IMO)

5. Life Colour (only because the range isn't wide enough yet otherwise it would be higher on my list)

Humbrol acrylics are just not good enough for airbrushing, I only have interior green and the RLM colours, but really they are only good enough for brush painting.

Rich

[Plumbum]

Thanks for the help, here's what I have put together for equipment over the years.

Badger 155 airbrush, Central Pneumatics compressor, Aztec cleaning station,

hose, moisture trap and regulator. I did want the gravity feed cup but that is on the

Patriot model I think, this should do for now.---John

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by jvandeu53, on Flickr

[Bigglesof266]

Suction feed is fine John. You'll need a marginally higher pressure is all. Badger airbrushes are still a quality manufacturer even though they are inexpensive now. All double action, I have two Badgers both suction, an Iwata gravity, an Omni for fine work (gravity) and a Fengda Iwata clone (gravity). That (probably Fengda made) compressor will do the job, but you'll soon wish you had a tank (reservoir) even though they do run relatively quietly compared to my Miller hobby of yonks. Make sure you place an additional in line water trap if you live anywhere humid.

Edit: P.S. Just caught up on your latest comments John. Tamiya make two different thinners. Reasonably affordable. Use them. I do. Either can be used with their acrylics. Tamiya also now make a Retarder (additive) which is superb. You can research the function/purpose of adding retarder.Generally, I've not found Tamiya to require a flow improver. Just thin as recommended. Mk 1 eyeball rough aiming point the consistency of milk. For spraying a gloss finish with Tamiya, unless you specifically want an enamel for hardness or colour, just use an acrylic and crystal clear topcoat it. I do use Tamiya enamels, but generally brush apply when they are required. For larger gloss areas, I spray with an acrylic colour coat prior to finish coating with a gloss crystal clear coat.

Laurie.

To reiterate, Tamiya is well distributed all over the world everywhere in the world IME. In a life as an airline pilot prior to retirement , I travelled regularly around sufficient of it to observe this first hand. Has been so for many many years. Vallejo and the others still aren't anywhere near as well distributed in this corner of the globe even if they are in your country or on your particular island.

Here, the others are nowhere near as well distributed, Humbrol excepted. One won't buy any of those other brands in the majority of walk in shops in my part of the world. Sourcing them internationally or nationally by mail order is also an unreliable PITA despite most of them being products of excellence, GSI Creos product especially. Hence my clearly stated criteria in the previous post.

Re the price. Again, it's partially a parochial distro thing as well as a simple arithmetic one. Spain is closer to the UK and EU than it is to AU. You can probably figure the rest out by yourself can't you? Exacerbating that, Tamiya jars aren't pre-thinned to a viscosity allegedly ready to use for spraying OOTB as Vallejo Model Air droppers are. Here pre-thinned Vallejo costs $5 for a 17ml bottle whilst Tamiya's 10ml (20ml) once thinner is added is $3.50. Thinner is cheap. Multiply that by many colours in a paint collection and the outlay becomes quite significant. IDK about you, but I'd currently have > 100 minuscule jars, droppers, tubs, tins etc. Again, you can figure out the arithmetic at AUD$5/dropper bottle x100 yourself I trust?

Re Lifecolor. These and other forums abound with regaled experiences of peoples' personal individual disasters with Lifecolor. You may be an airbrush Übermeister, but many aren't. Some are even neophytes as the OP intimated. I stand by my position Tamiya is the user friendly preferable option for beginners. I've used all I've reported on, and more. If you research, I suggest you'll reveal to yourself that the consensus is that Lifecolor are just harder to use to effect as reliable an outcome as Noddy or probably even Big Ears could with Tamiya.

Er, no they don't all spray the same IME. Humbrol acrylic is beyond utterly dreadful, and Lifecolor too can present a challenge as already iterated. Someone just gave Hakata a verbal bashing here a few days ago, although I won't comment other than that as I have never used their product. Been playing his game rather a long time, and then some including (spray) painting using single and two pack epoxies, polyurethanes and lacquers on C/L and R/C model planes for many years in the days of dope, tissue and or silk/fabric before iron ons. I painted the bodywork on this for instance over 35 years ago when I stripped it to bare frame and rebuilt it without making a hash of the job. So I do have runs on the board from more than a single innings, reason suggesting the experience providing just a clue more than guesswork at what I'm talking about. Even if have had a personal experience which find you and I disagree, please respect my right to convey my own experience based opinion as you would expect that of yours by others.

Re acronyms, those used are as common to forum posting as common emoticons are to posts or txts. Anyone who has been around the internet for more than five minutes not seeking to shelter in a self constructed cave knows IME is an acronym for 'in my experience', IMV, 'in my view', OOTB, 'out of the box'. Although if one didn't already know them, it hardly takes more than an intelligent contextually deductive guess. Alternatively, Google will reveal each acronym with a single click.

Although I use many brands including Revell, Testors, Humbrol (enamels), Lifecolor, Model Air and Model Color, Tamiya acrylics and enamels of which the majority are now Vallejo Model Air followed by Tamyia acrylic. Just like teaching the average punter to fly in a 152 rather than Tucano or PC-9 stands significantly more chance of success as well as being an easier, friendlier experience, I stand by my statement that IMEV Tamiya is the standout performer in its role in that regard by far for all the reasons previously iterated.

Edited May 10, 2016 by Bigglesof266

[dubster72]

I'm with Biggles - for a newbie to airbrushing, Tamiya is the most vice-free of all the acrylics. All the others (Lifecolor, Vallejo, Hataka etc) will lead to tip clogging & inconsistent flow that can frustrate anyone who's new to airbrushing.

But Tamiya isn't without its own potential pitfalls. The most common is where the paint partially dries before it hits the model surface, resulting in a grainy effect.

Tamiya paints like to go down wet, so don't be afraid of getting in close or using a high PSI - 25 to 30.

And always remember that although acrylics are technically non toxic you still don't want to be breathing in their particulates. Even a basic dust mask will help keep your lungs healthy.

[Plumbum]

Thanks to everyone, Does Tamiya require a primer? I hear Badger makes an

excellent one, I have used spray cans, aerosol, but never used primer.---John

[Raven Morpheus]

I would say it probably doesn't matter but I generally put down a layer of Vallejo Model AIr Polyurethane Surface Primer (usually the grey one) before I do a main color coat (probably another reason my airbrushes get clogged!). I don't bother so much with small pieces that aren't attached until the last minute, just the main model. But then I'm a relative noob and I'm only going by what others have advised me or what I've read.

[Pat C]

I use Tamiya Fine Primer from a rattle can as an undercoat to all acrylics and that is the only one I use now. Saves cleaning the airbrush!

There was a mention of metallics above - the Citadel range of silvers are very good paints for airbrushing although the legendary "Mithril Silver" has a different name and slightly darker hue now. I thin with a mix of IPA and water.

No mention of Xtracrylix above - they have a good range of matched colours, but can be frustrating to spray, with lots of tip clogging.

Pat

[Rodders154]

I use modelair and tamiya

I have never been any good with humbrol

Rodders

[Mitch K]

I prime with Duplicolour white from my local emporium. Works a treat under Tamiya, for me at least.

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Thanks to everyone, Does Tamiya require a primer? I hear Badger makes an

excellent one, I have used spray cans, aerosol, but never used primer.---John

I would say it probably doesn't matter but I generally put down a layer of Vallejo Model AIr Polyurethane Surface Primer (usually the grey one) before I do a main color coat (probably another reason my airbrushes get clogged!). I don't bother so much with small pieces that aren't attached until the last minute, just the main model. But then I'm a relative noob and I'm only going by what others have advised me or what I've read.

Hi chaps - in general I find acrylics grab better over a primer, though I have sprayed without too. I tend to thin with Gunze self levelling thinner nowadays ( which is an organic laquer solvent so you DEFO need to wear an mask) and that means it bites a bit more into the plastic, and Im lazy - so I tend to chance it more!.

If you thin Tamiya with their proprietary thinner or just isopropol alcohol, the mix is less grabby - so a primer gives it something to get its teeth into.

The other thing to watch out for is surface grease on your model. A decent clean of your model before your prime or airbrush will work wonders.

If you want a primer that's a spray can and very very good - then Mr Surfacer 1000 in a rattle can is your man. warm the can and apply - it self levels, and dries really smooth and has the advantage that its surface is receptive to both laquer solvent and alcohol thinned paint - so it bites and sticks.

It is not cheap though, but in my book sometimes you DO pay for what you get. I keep meaning to buy some Badger / Ultimae Stynelrez stuff as it gets good reviews.

HTH

Jonners

[Plumbum]

Thanks, you mention thinning with IPA, the only IPA I know of here

is stuff my son in law drinks, India Pale Ale?????----John

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Thanks, you mention thinning with IPA, the only IPA I know of here

is stuff my son in law drinks, India Pale Ale?????----John

IsoPropol Alcohol - hence IPA

Its chemically made alcohol rather than organically made - and used a degreasing agent ( its great for getting fat off things too- in the kitchen for instance).

Maplins sell it or you can buy it online. Not for drinking unless you literally want one LAST one.

Jonners

[Plumbum]

Neither are some of those local IPAs. ---John