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About dubster72

  • Birthday 04/12/1967

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  1. Look round for a fridge compressor. Most local dumps.. sorry, re-use & recycle centres have a few knocking about. Add some hosing & fittings and you're good to go with 3am spraying! I've had this set-up for well over a year now.
  2. Les, if your STuG is an early version (pre February 1943) then Jack is correct in that the colour would be German Grey RAL 7021. Tamiya XF 63 would be a good base coat, but rather too dark for scale. Adding a few drops of white & then overspraying the upper panels will give a much more pleasing effect.
  3. Circles? Squiggly lines maybe, but not octopus camo
  4. Richard, a 'properly made' wash such as any commercial product out there is merely enamel paint thinned with white spirit. Don't be sucked in by the marketing blurb! Flory washes are slightly different in that they're water based with a clay additive to aid keeping the wash in the panel lines. As long as you apply any wash over a well cured gloss coat, you're unlikely to mess it up. Most problems occur when people add an oil-based wash over an acrylic gloss coat before its fully cured. Then the chemically hotter wash affects the gloss coat, resulting in undesirable effects. Patience is the watchword!
  5. dubster72

    RAL Acrylics

    Aha that makes sense! My apologies for any confusion I've caused!
  6. dubster72

    RAL Acrylics

    You'll have a tough job matching those RAL numbers to Luftwaffe colours because RAL refers to land vehicles; Reichs-Ausshuss für Lieferbedingungen (RAL) (Reich Committee for Terms of Delivery). RLM is the Luftwaffe designation; State Ministry of Aviation (Reichsluftfahrt Ministerium) You'll probably have more luck by describing either the RLM number or where the paint is going to be used. So later war cockpits would be RLM 66 for example. Ammo by Mig do nice Luftwaffe paints & include the RLM number in their description. HTH
  7. Although it's more effort because it comes in 2 parts, Miliput always gives me a nice smooth finish. You can roll it out into tiny snakes to fit thin gaps & because it's water soluble, use a damp cotton bud to smooth it out. Hardly any sanding is needed. HTH
  8. Normal white spirit thins it perfectly... AK just decant the regular stuff into little jars & make big profits along the way. I've thinned the paste with cellulose thinner to excellent effect when airbrushing, although I wouldn't recommend using that for hairy stick work.
  9. dubster72

    paint question

    You could try the Zero Paints range from Hiroboy. They do a candy metallic purple http://www.hiroboy.com/Candy_Purple_Paint_30ml--product--2378.html
  10. Brilliant stuff! I do love seeing big dioramas, there's so much to take in. Lots of clever little details abound, like the worn metal by the crew seating on the half track.
  11. That dashboard looks just like my one! Excellent work Pappy
  12. 10 PSI should be the same irrespective of which pressure regulator that's being used. Without knowing the particular model, I'd say the Machine Mart one is unable to provide low pressure. Although why anyone wants 10 PSI is beyond me! Surely a decent level of atomization isn't possible? But the simplest solution would be to get an inline valve, such as an Iwata MAC valve. Set the compressor pressure to 40 PSI & then adjust the MAC valve to something you're more comfortable with.
  13. VMA are airbrush ready, straight from the bottle (after much shaking to mix it up!) However, many people like to thin them a little; especially for stuff like Luftwaffe mottling or spiderweb German AFV camo. The fun is in the experimentation...
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