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Found 19 results

  1. Now I've finally finished clearing the backlog, I can return to the build I put aside to clear them (I know, a lilttle irony there...!). Once I get back from Christmas hols with the family I will dig this one out and get on with it. I had been posting it on another forum, so for now, as a little teaser, I will post what I have already done..... My referances are the Ilya Muromets Special by Harry Woodman, along with Windsock International Vol 6, Number 4 and Vol 12 Number 2, which contain articles by Harry, one on the plane itself, the other on the kit and it's many faults. Unfortunately the plans are all for the blunt nose Veh and I'm building the earlier sharp nosed variant, but from Harry's comments in his articles I think I'm pretty accurate on the differances. I'm not going to beat around the bush - the kit is terrible! The parts are very thick and lumpy, but that's the least of the problems. This is what you get: As to the errors, I'll list those as I get to them, but since I've started on the fuselage here is the list: 1) The upper longeron is a straight line from nose to tail. It should be parallel to the lower for about 1/5 of the total length, then both upper and lower taper equally to the tail. The longerons should also be parallel in plan form, easily rectified with a little sanding. 2) It's just over 1mm too deep for its entire length. This is not too difficult to resolve as it's about the thickness of the plastic, (except for the nose section which requires a little more to be removed) so I just cut the fuselage bottom off from the inside, using the edge of the plastic as my guide. 3) The windows are too big. Again fairly easy to rectify with plastic card. 4) The door is too far aft. 5) The forward upper gunner's position is too far forward, and the aft one shouldn't be there at all on this early version. (It was only on the later Geh model). 6) All the internal structure and bracing wires are moulded on the OUTSIDE of the fuselage! Since they are joined by many large ejector pin marks it's a case of "get out the sanding block...." anyway! So, to the first job - correcting this big lump of plastic and making it more accurate! This first shot shows just how much I had to remove from the bottom of the fuselage to correct the depth. The cockpit section was also cut off where the parallel longerons end, and sanded on their top joint to make them parallel in plan form. The inside of the cockpit sections and the front part of the aft sections were thinned extensively to bring them to a more accurate scale thickness. A little sanding on the aft section where the cut was made brought the tail down to where it should be. A little more sanding on the stern post to square it up, and also at the sides to correct the curve of the tail in plan form. This is all after the outside of the fuselage was sanded clean to remove all the mouldings and ejector pin marks. The door is in its original (incorrect) position in this shot. The windows were then corrected with plastic card. I cut "L" shaped pieces and fitted them to bring the rear of the windows forward, and the bottoms upward. The front windows were also fitted with new bottom pieces to make them narrower top-to-bottom. The upper gunner's position was moved aft so that the front of the new opening is about where the rear of the moulded one is, by cutting out the fuselage in the correct place and filling the moulded opening with card. I also cut out the engineer's access panels in the fuselage sides - these provided a means for him to crawl out onto the wing in flight and fix the engines! One of these will be fitted open, the other closed. If anyone knows how they opened please let me know! I'm not sure if they were removable, or hinged out from the bottom.... The door was moved forward to its correct position which gave the opportunity to square it up again after the adjustment to the slope of the upper rear longeron, and the rear gunner's position closed up with plastic card. The door will be modelled open (it slid rearwards, between the canvas exterior and plywood interior panels, like a pocket door). The internal rigging has been fitted across the window and door openings by using a seam scriber and inlaying the rigging line. The joins won't show inside as the cockpit was lined with plywood and this will be fitted over the rigging. I have made these ply panels from card and will fit them soon. I have also drilled new mounting holes for the lower wings. They will be mounted on brass rod to provide some strength, and the rod will be covered with plastic rod (hollowed out to fit over it) where it's visible inside to simulate the spars running across the fuselage floor. Finally the cockpit and rear sections were rejoined, filled and sanded as necessary. The lower pic shows the "ply" panels sitting in place inside the cockpit. I'm almost to the stage where I can join the fuselage halves and start the interior detailing. One advantage of removing the floor is that I can build it up separately then just slip it in from below once the details on the sides and roof have been done. I will need to add the crossmembers on the roof, and rig them, as they are very visible through those big windows. One last question: I want to try to replicate the feeling of light coming through the rear fuselage fabric. I've thought of using flourescent or luminous paint and then a thin coat of white or CDL to tone it down a little...any thoughts? Is this type of paint even available? Thanks for checking in, on what will be a long, and hopefully fun, build! Ian
  2. Hi, some older pics of the Waco WIP finished in action Cheers Macki
  3. I am sure that most modellers of the Royal Navy already know this,but after the tremendous losses to the destroyer flotillas, particularly in the Med in 41/2,almost always to sustained land based air attack, the decision was finally taken to grapple the HA/LA and associated fire control problems,and a class of destroyer capable of shipping the required weapons. Suffice to say that the 1942 Battles were the result. I won't go into the history of these handsome ships-there are a few books out there that cover it adequately,though apart from the old Almark title by Hodges,no other is dedicated to this class. In plastic a similar situation,just the Frog Battle in 1/325 or something. Apparently never built Kriegsmarine is more sexy.... Notwithstanding ,I'll be building my own,as usual in my preferred scale of 1/1250,ans entirely scratchbuilt,with my own custom made etch. The usual materials, plastic card, Milliput and Green Stuff and Tamiya Extra Thin-Humbrol no longer make a plastic glue that works,due again to EC regulations..... The basic hull,roughed out. Battle a by plastichacker, on Flickr Battle b by plastichacker, on Flickr mtd
  4. This is beginning to look as though I'm trying to monopolise WIP's, with three on the go at the same time, but there's a reason for starting this build thread. Nick and Nick were interested where I got my wheels from for the 1/48th scale Centaur, so I thought that I would explain the whole build at the same time as describing how I made the wheels. I actually built this model a couple of years ago so I won't be starting this thread off with the usual photos of the kit's sprues etc. When Tamiya produced their Cromwell in 1/48th scale, I like a lot of other people thought that they would do the same as they did with their 1/35th kits and produce a Centaur, but for some obscure reason, they didn't. To produce a Centaur from the Cromwell kit isn't difficult apart from one thing......the wheels. The dimensions are the same, but the tyres are perforated. There approximately 30 holes around each tyre and the thought of drilling those on all twenty wheels, let alone getting each one equidistant from the next, filled me with dread. Some people have done this conversion and taken the easy way out and used the wheels from the Crusader kit, which is all very well but the Crusader's wheels are much thinner in profile. Without going into too much detail at this stage, I'll just say now that to overcome the wheel problem I used the tyre from a Crusader on a wheel from a Cromwell. All will become clear later. Regards, John.
  5. Hi all, New month, new project. This has been rattling around in my head for a while and I think is sort of picking up on the stalled Gundam-wreck-in-desert thing I started a couple of years ago. I'm starting it now because I think it'll be quick, and it gives me some cutting and sticking to do as well as a break from painting and weathering. I got some board game pieces from Kickstarter last year (for Cthulhu Wars) and one of the freebies was an extra copy of most of the miniatures. One of them (the Bhole) looks rather like a sandworm, and I liked the idea of using it as one. It's moulded in some kind of horrible vinyl/resin/restic stuff which is a bit bendy, but the detail is fine. I started by hacking it off the moulded base (with a full-size hacksaw, no less!) and giving it a wash since I'm pretty sure it'll have been covered in mould release gunk at some point: (click for bigger) Modelling: It takes you to strange places. Open wide! I thought of just basing it up on its own, but I reckon a small diorama will be more interesting to photograph and should make it clearer what kind of worm it's supposed to be. So I started fiddling around with some Bandai add-on Gundam parts and some other spares to get the start of a spice harvester: The wheels are thrusters from the MS Marine set, each one needed the propeller cutting off and the four blocks paring off the "tread". I then sanded the blocks smooth and cut new grooves to join up the ends and match the existing grooves. I haven't added hubcaps yet but I suspect something from a tank will do. The left hand wheels are unmodified, the right ones are almost ready to use. I found some sprue which fitted them so I could get an idea of how it'd look: This is also made from some Gundam aqua backpack parts from the MS Marine set. It's not supposed to be a model of the David Lynch harvester, but should have some echoes of that design. The right hand side is the back and should have some storage tanks sticking out. The left is the front, I haven't decided how to do the harvest-ey bit yet, but I like the idea of the control cabin being up above like the Lynch model. The round holes are going to be hatches, with a little platform under/around them. It would be better if there was only one on each side so they might end up changing, not sure yet. Since I took these I've made up most of the chassis, with poseable leading/trailing suspension arms. But the camera battery ran out Will put it together for a mockup tomorrow. Cheers, Will
  6. Just to show that I build in other scales besides 1/35th, I built this a couple of years ago. There is no kit of a Challenger in 1/48th scale so I had to use a combination of two Tamiya Cromwells and good old fashioned scratch building. I used the rear deck from the Cromwell along with the rear hull and track guards, an the complete lower hull and turret were scratch built. The one thing that was a problem was the tracks, they don't exist in 1/48th. So is had to be a compromise. The nearest to the Challenger's track were the ones from the now defunct Fighting 48th for their Comet. Challenger used 15.5 inch tracks whilst Comet's were 18 inch, so they were reduced with a few swipes of a large file. I have to say that this as one of the most enjoyable builds that I have ever done. Regards, John.
  7. Here I present my rendition of a Bedford QLC Cockatrice, Built from left over Airfix QL parts and scratch building.... ATB Sean
  8. Hi everyone! I decided to start something new on the side and get off the F-16 I am building for a while because I am getting a bit burnt out with it to be honest. I decided to start something fresher and I thought simpler.... naive I am!! So I decided to start with the Hasegawa Mig-27 Flogger D in the 1/72: This particular release is from 2003 although I am suspecting it comes from an old old kit as a quick search in Scalemates suggests. Also the combination of raised and depressed panel lines suggests. Furthermore there some significant flash in the kit pointing to a worn out mold. So these are the sprues out of the box: Plus a clear sprue with the 2 piece canopy, which can be mounted either close or open and a couple of clear part for signaling lights on the side of the main fuselage. Some details of a few parts: Flash: Now off we go! First things first I did the research in the following websites if you wanna have a look around (best walkarounds I could find): ( THIS IS MY MAIN REFERENCE) I am not sure if I am missing something but first thing to strike me was the nose. Completely wrong shape, at least for the Flogger D model, which should be as follow: ( Photo credit True that there are differences between the mig-27 models: But all those nice targeting systems on the nose (Kaira-1 system) completely non existing on the Hasegawa kit! So I set myself to fix this offend! Original nose: A bit of standard Milliput and water to shape the Kaira-1 system main structure: Sanding and reshapping will follow to lower the profile of the structure, also painted the sockets black and cut open the frontal element of the Kaira-1 using a photo-etched mini saw: Now time for the optics! Clear sprue which has been reshaped thinner and polished: Cut the tip for the frontal element of the lens (see reference picture above): A smear of CA and it is fixed! Now the second optical element at the front: This is just a clear styrene sheet cut and glued into place # Next will be covering all elements with the armoured glass windows which will be more clear styrene sheet and nose it is ready to go! I have also been working on the frontal wheel bay which again kit version is FAAAAAAAAAAAAR from reality! I will prepare another post just focusing on that one After that comes the cockpit which in the kit is mysteriously missing! As always comments / suggestions are more than welcome! Hope you like this Cheers, Alex P.S. if you wanna check my F-16 build this is the link
  9. A good evening to you all, despite the sad events of today, First of all, a bit about me: From a young age I was first introduced to the RAF Museum at Cosford, I have been there during the construction of the Cold War hangar and although I can't remember it, I presume that I must have been there before the Nimrod (XV249) arrived and I have since become well acquainted with it when they brought it in during 2012. Out of all the exhibits there, the Nimrod is still the one that catches my eye- perhaps it is because of its size or it might be due to the red goose emblem of 51.sqn on its nose! (Pictured) Having gone to Telford in 2015 and having seen an Airfix 1:72 Nimrod kit, I simply couldn't resist! So, without further ado, the following is a quick summary of the kit and modifications: 1:72 Airfix Nimrod kit A set of fabulous decals from RAM Models (more on this later) A really excellent Raven Scale Models lighting kit (again, more on this later) A few scratchbuilt bits and pieces, mainly the "forest" of antennae and pitot tubes. Finished with a combination of Vallejo "Air" paints and some AK Interactive washes. NOTE: THE MODEL I HAVE CREATED IS NOT 100% ACCURATE and the positions of the lights are certainly not accurate! Issues with the kit: The wing-fuselage join was horrendous (although this might be due to the wires of the lighting kit getting caught in the internal structure of the fuselage) and so vast quantities of liquid poly glue were utilised and subsequently sanded down to get a "decent" seam. The wing-tip pods were not suitable for the R.1, these were made from bits of sprue which were sanded down and hollowed out. -This isn't much of an issue with the kit, but an issue nevertheless: trying to get the wiring through the wing structure and into the wing-tip pods was a nightmare, this is not a fault of the Airfix kit or the lighting kit- just a problem with trying to integrate the two. Now, time for some pictures! The superb RAM Models decals for the 51 sqn goose on the nose. And another view of the nose..... You can tell that I love that decal Last one I promise!!! (Note the effective texturing of the goose decal). A nose-on view A view of the wing structure, intakes, wing fuel pods, antennae under the wing, try and ignore the light to the right of the intakes, the hole is to allow a strong beam of light through from the LED A view of the central fuselage section, note the "forest" of antennae The flaps and engine nozzles. And the left side... (The rigging from the fuselage to the tail needs re-tensioning) A close-up of the tail section Excellent decals once again from RAM Models I attempted a moderate level of weathering using an AK Interactive wash From a distance... And underneath... A selection of AK Interactive washes were used for the landing gear bays, also note the antennae just in front of the pylon and another one coming out from the rear of the wing-tip pod (this one somehow survived without breaking off!) One final shot before I demonstrate the lights. As mentioned previously, I used the lighting kit from Raven Scale Models, the image below shows the underside of the Nimrod- note the position of the bomb-bay panel. Now you see it... Now you don't! -The wiring was redirected into the bomb bay area, where the battery holder is located and where the switch (silver coloured thin tube) is activated from. It lives! (sort of) Demonstrating the landing lights- I haven't added lights to the nose or to the inner wing-mounted landing lights, purely due to the fact that using fibre optics would ultimately reduce the intensity of light coming from the lights that are currently present, I would prefer there to be two bright lights compared to 5 dim lights. They're quite bright! The placement is pure fiction, but there is one red flashing light (pictured) and two flashing strobe lights Furthermore, there is one light in each wing tip (red and green), again their placement is somewhat fictional; i've been told that they should be swapped over (I'll be damned if I'm changing their position now!) And that, alas, is that. Thanks for having a look, she'll now be fitted with wire and hung from the ceiling- flying alongside the Shackleton, the Nimrod MR2's predecessor and stablemate in the ASW role during the Cold War. Perhaps I'll get round to doing an MR2 one day.... But for now, thank you and have a good evening- my best wishes, especially to members in Belgium. ;( Sam
  10. Hi! During my unemployment I kinda lost most of my modeling 'Mojo' but a new job has rekindled it and I set about finishing my first scratchsbuilt spaceship and so without further ado I present to you the - as of yet still unfinished - Mars Transporter: The starting point: The Base Paintjob: More paint and start of weathering: The Noseart (and I MEAN noseart) Now weathered: Start of the weathering: and from the other end (one could say:"The END is near") That's all for now - next update will be when it's finished! Cheers Hans J
  11. Found this a while back while putting the xmas decorations away: Last time I saw this was somewhere between 1985-1990, it's suffered a bit in the intervening years.....As there is already going to be quite a bit of remedial Milliput work taking place on my bench, I decided to mask it up and see if I can't actually make something out of it after all these years.
  12. As the title says, I've gotten bored with the sanding involved in my main build. So I started something new. Isn't that always the way? It started with a plastic ski pass... Then it turned into this: Blocked out turret and gun mount. The it morphed into this long-gunned monster. That was the end if the first build day. Today things got started on the body. It's upside down in this picture. It ended the night like this: It's eating into my plastic card supply... Turret detailing got started, This is a hatch and a ring under some tape. I also boxed in the gun cavity. This took ages! Anyway, here's how she sits at the end of. Work tonight. Rather menacing isn't it? Cheers, K
  13. I scratch built this small sub out of a piece of dowel and plasticard. I wanted a model of this sub after building the micromir kit, I just couldn't get the larger kit to look good so I concentrated on building one in my favourite scale. Heres a bit of info from Wikipedia. The Project 1910 Kashalot class submarine (NATO reporting name: Uniform) is a class of research andspecial operations submarine constructed by the Soviet Union during the late 1970s and early 1980s.[1] Two boats of the class were constructed, AS-13 and AS-15, with the first boat of the class being laid down in 1977 and commissioned in 1986, the second being laid down in 1983 but not commissioned until 1991.[1] A third class boat, AS-12, reached the fitting-out stage before being cancelled in 1998.[1] Displacing 1,580 tons submerged, the Kashalot class was constructed using a single titanium hull design, and is powered by a nuclear reactor; they were the first Soviet nuclear-powered submarines to have a single hull.[1]The boats each have a crew of 36 officers and men.
  14. "The R-class submarines were a class of 12 small British diesel-electric submarines built for the Royal Navy during World War I, and were forerunners of the modern hunter-killer submarines, in that they were designed specifically to attack and sink enemy submarines, their battery capacity and hull shape being optimized for underwater performance." (source: wikipedia) Made using modelling putty and the drop tanks of a 1/72 scale sea hawk. The bow required a lot of time to sand down to the right shape, i tried top get as much reference material as possible but it still proved a real challenge. I will probably build a second sub with greater accuracy as i feel this one is lacking somewhat, and include the distinctive stepped conning tower of some of the other R-class boats.
  15. This was a really fun project, sculpted and sanded out of modelling putty. Not quite as good as one i saw by Flankerman but i'm pleased how it turned out. Sorry about the picture quality again this one is super small. Any modelling tips or build ideas would be great, i'm tempted to try and build an R-class at some point. Alex
  16. Evening all! Apologies about the photo's quality (or lack of quality)! This quick little 2 hour build started from an obsession (practically everything nuclear weapons, cold war or anything military post ww2). I have been aware of the Topol and Topol-M missiles for quite a while and have always wanted to build a model of one, naturally, and having seen the new Zvezda offering I decided to think about making my own. Weeks went by with nothing much being done until I came across the Zvezda Topol model in my local model shop, when I got home I sat down with some plasticard, some plastic tubing and some foamboard and created a model of the Topol-M in its "erected" position. As said previously it was all made in 2 and a bit hours with only classical music and glasses of water to keep me going! I don't know the scale as I started from the ground up and so the wheels of the Topol were scaled down to the width of the tubing and everything went from there. Hope you enjoy! Sam
  17. Good evening, first proper build post from me on the forums! Well it all started after a trip to the Midland Air Museum in Coventry where I got the fantastic chance to get inside an Avro Vulcan and see what it was like inside, and by god what an aircraft! I wish I had taken a lot more photographs but thanks to a thread that I found on the forums prior to joining, I found a nice walkaround inside of the cockpit. This was then followed by an enquiry to the Vulcan To The Sky Trust and after they gave me a few pages of the crew manual showing the details of both the front and rear cockpit, they also suggested getting a book which included the manual and infinitely more in-depth images. (The Vulcan Story 1952-2002 by Tim Laming) And so it began, all made of plasticard with the seat cushions made of milliput. Obviously there is still A LOT of work to do I think it is coming along nicely and the 3 panels shown at the end were made today with clear plastic used to serve as the ground scanning radar screen and a few dials. Thanks for that, cue the images! Sam And so after an hour of fannying around with Google+, Flickr and now Photobucket, the photos now work!
  18. HI there! I return after a break on the 1:35 vulcan I am doing to make a small a diorama which was based on a photo I found a long time ago, which can be viewed from the link that follows: Anyway, from that I had a go at my own which includes the missile cruiser Pyotr Velikiy made in what i like to call "SprueScale" which is a scale of 1:8400, with the models being made entirely from sprue and other bits. The base is a clear plasticard covered in a glue/ground sprinkle mixture and then painted the blue from the tin, the aircraft is from the 1:720 Italeri Admiral Kuznetsov aircraft carrier and everything has been secured with superglue to reduce the chance of it becoming displaced. That's all for today, Vulcan progress will be made tomorrow. Bye for now! Sam
  19. Hi all, This post is a first for me in many ways. It's my first time posting in the maritime section, it's my first boat build and its also my first attempt at carving. Please be gentle with me Its had a high gloss finish and I have still yet to add some rigging as well as a rudder. Ben.