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Paul E

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About Paul E

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    Models, Ships, Ship Models
  1. Of course it is OK. I hope my build will be of help.
  2. Thanks SUB-SAM, I'm glad to hear someone else is planning on building one of these. While trying not to spoil the story of my build, may I suggest you look at my recent build of a Ton Class minesweeper to give you an idea of how I am going to solve the railing issue.
  3. Thanks Kev, I used to build 1:96 scale RC model boats but with build times measured in years I decided to reduce in scale so I actually finished some of my models! As you can see I am slowly working my way back up the scales again.
  4. Thanks Bernd, I must admit I too am surprised that aren't many examples of this kit around on the different forums. There is an example of a build by Frank Spahr which is an influence behind my build but it is a Type143A. I am hoping my build will fix that.
  5. The hull had been assembled sometime in the distant past with no other work done on the model. But subsequently I have filled in the joins with putty and generally tided up my previous work. My first job on the superstructure was to remove the moulded railings as it is my intention to replace these with Photo Etch items: I then glued and fitted the main superstructure components together and filled the joins: The next item of modification was part 30 and the windscreen on the flying bridge. In the kit this is a single moulded piece which provides the detail for the back of the bridge and the glass wind shield for the open bridge. Instead of painting the glass for the wind screen as per the kit instructions I decided that I should make an attempt at fitting glazing. With careful use of a craft knife and file I cut out the windows leaving the frames of the moulding behind: Glazing for the superstructure and wind screen will be fabricated from clear plastic card and applied after painting at a later date. So that’s it for a starter. I hope to provide an update soon. Thank you for looking.
  6. I have come to the conclusion that I have to start reducing the stash of model kits I have, starting with one that has been lurking in the bottom of the draw for the last 15 years. This is a model kit of the Deutsche Marine Type 143 Fast Attack Craft produced by Revell. Along the way I have lost the original packaging and there has been some minor damage to the mouldings on the sprue but nothing to prevent me building the model. I cannot remember why I bought the model in the first place, it was probably one of those spur of the moment things or I wanted to use it for bits, which was my want back in the distant past. However for whatever reason it was never cannibalised or built and has lain unloved until I saw a marketing picture of a completed model on the internet for the recently re-released kit. Having seen the picture my interest was rekindled and step one in stash reduction has been achieved. As I previously said, the box was lost along the way and some of the items have come off the sprue so I can’t start with the usual box and contents photograph so a picture of the new box art on the Revell website will have to do: I have to say that the new instructions with the re-released kit on the website are far better than the ones I have and so I have down loaded them to help me with the project. The German Navy has had a long association with S-Boats and the Type 143 was introduced into service in the late 1970s with a follow on sub class of Type 143A (which was also subject of a Revell kit). The Type 143 went out of service in 2005 with some being sold onto other navies. The Type 143 S-Boats were all named after birds with the lead ship in the class of 10 being named Albatross. These in common with all Fast Attack Craft were heavily armed and suited for operations in coastal waters, in the case of the Type 143, the Baltic, although they did operate as far afield as the Mediterranean. Armament consisted of two Oto Melara 76mm Guns, four MM38 Exocet Surface to Surface Missiles and two 21 inch Torpedo tubes facing aft. The ships were constructed with a composite hull (wood, grp and aluminium) and had four MTU propulsion engines developing a maximum speed of 40 knots. I am not sure what they were like to serve on but I suspect the shallow draught and narrow beam made them quite uncomfortable in a decent sea way. I am going to have to rely heavily on the internet for modelling reference and found a couple of useful web sites to help me although I am hoping not to deviate too far from the original kit: navy.html The kit is at 1:144 Scale which is quite a nice size for adding detail. However I have decided that I will try and keep to the script and not deviate too far from an out of the box build. Although that said I have already decided I am going to replace the moulded railings, there may be one or two other minor adjustments but this should be a relatively straight forward build. As for the model kit itself the mouldings appear to be of good quality and I am hoping will fit together with little or no problems. I think replacing the kit railings with PE would make a massive difference and that is my starting point. So that is the introduction out of the way. I will be posting updates of progress of the build very shortly. Thanks for looking. Paul
  7. Hmm. Project Napier indeed. I feel there is a bit of a dig in that name somehow particularly as the new generators are going to be MTU.
  8. Hi Jason, Thank you for posting pictures of your build. It is very nice indeed, quite inspirational. I have been wondering whether I should buy one of these and seeing your model has made me come to the decision that I should do so. Thank you and good job well done! Paul
  9. The spot position is quite a long way aft as the flight deck is sized for the much larger Merlin helicopter. I found this image of a Wildcat (The Lynx replacement) ranged on a Type 45 Flight deck which should help.
  10. No it isn't. Again it depends on the circumstances and which way the wind flows over the deck. Normally the helo faces forward because as the ship manoeuvres so the wind flows forward to aft. However if for some reason the ship cannot achieve flying course the helicopter will rotate on the spot to face in to the wind for take off.
  11. Yes, the helicopter usually faces forward.
  12. Hi Jason, In answer to your question the front wheel of the Lynx should sit on the intersection of the white athwartships line and the circle. In the picture Dave has provided it would be roughly where the "Green Death" are standing at the extreme right of the picture.
  13. Hi Jason, I would not worry too much about it. Fundamentally any combination would work. It is feasible to have the helo ranged onto the spot with rotors spread and flight deck netting struck and the Hangar door open. This may occur during preparation for flying or at the end of the flying serial, however the door would be shut (it appears the T45 operate with the door fully shut) when the rotors are turning. I would be interested to see how your model comes out as I have been considering building one of these with the PE set.
  14. Much depends on how you wish to depict your model. It would not be wrong to range the helo with the flight deck netting in the raised position at sea, at anchor or alongside in harbour. Equally Flight Deck nets are struck to the horizontal during flying stations although this is not so common at anchor or alongside. However if the Flight Deck nets are struck horizontal then the ensign staff is never rigged! The other thing that you need to consider is the position of the hangar door. If the aircraft is on deck for maintenance the hangar door would be open. If flying the door would be closed or partially closed. A quick Google search should help.
  15. Hi Callum, I am going to watch your build of the Dodo Models ANZAC very carefully. I recently acquired one of these in the pre ASMD format with the intention to build one of the RNZN boats. I wholeheartedly agree these are nice little kits although unfortunately for me the kit lacks decals for the New Zealand ships which is a pity. Keep up the good work, it is inspirational