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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Paul E

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About Paul E

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    Models, Ships, Ship Models

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  1. A quick update, I was supposed to start preparation of the seascape this week but I ended up tinkering with the mast instead. I decided in my wisdom to take a look at fitting the radio antenna on the yard arms, a quick job one might think, that is until I lose all sense and decide to add that one extra little touch! The kit instructions show small pieces of stretched sprue of different lengths glued to the mast yards. That might do, but ship masts and antenna is one of those areas where my job and hobby coincide and I wasn’t happy at leaving it as per kit instructions. So drawing on my knowledge and looking at the few clear images I could find I determined that the radio antenna fitted to the end of the upper yards looked like this: I had a quick think about how I was going to achieve this and resolved I can reasonably achieve the effect I wanted using a 1:350 scale PE ladder from which I cut off a six rung length and one of the sides: Next I attempted to bend the PE to make a hexagon (although they actually came out circular) and then I bent the rungs to a point to make the cone: I needed to make three of these which were glued on to 28 SWG copper wire and then onto the tips of the mast yard arms: I don’t know how effective they will look when painted but at least I know I have done it. That is it for now. Thank you for looking.
  2. Thank you. Even if I say so myself I think the railings really do make all the difference to this kit and I am glad I made the investment. I know I have a long way to go but I am actually very pleased with this model. I just hope my painting skills give it justice. Paul.
  3. This is coming along nicely. I know you are past the point in the build now to rectify the curvature in the hull but my experience with scratch building waterline models is to brace the model down the centreline of the base first and fit the bulkheads either side. That said the curvature of your hull is barely noticeable and will be easily hidden when the model is mounted on its seascape. Some of my early attempts at scratch building look more like your deck template after it has been removed so I think you have nothing to worry about. The issue with the skinning I also recognise and I like your solution. Keep up the good work, I am looking forward to watch where this is going. Paul.
  4. After a brief break from modelling over the Easter holidays work has resumed. I have spent some time sorting out the mounting base so that the Perspex cover fits snuggly so the model will look “tiddly” for display when finished. I will probably spend the next week working out how to model the sea scape. On the model itself I have been progressing with the fitting of the railings on the superstructure: which is now complete: I will need to consider painting the superstructure next. The other thing I have decided to have ago at is the mast which I need to add PE ladders too at some point. Any way I will finish with a picture of how the model looks so far with the bits I have constructed dry fitted together: Enjoy and thank you for looking.
  5. Thank you Rob, No problems with regards to the fret. I placed a re-order today. Thank you Martian, It just needs a bit of care and patience.
  6. Ohh that winch is very nice. Like it, like it a lot.
  7. I have been asked about the 1:144 PE railings set on Longshank's Clyde Puffer build on the forum; so I will repeat what I wrote there should anybody be interested. If anybody is interested in getting hold of a set of this PE please let me know, I had the PE made up professionally so I can get repeat orders if I want as long as I meet a minimum pre-order value. Just as an explanation; I deliberately designed a generic set of 1:144 scale railing stanchions and ladders so I could use them on other projects that I have other than this Revel Type 143 kit. To give an idea the set has 168 3bar stanchions, 56 2bar stanchions and 30 handrail eyes as well as vertical ladders. The only other thing needed to make up the railings is 28SWG wire which just happens to be available as sewing supplies in Hobbycraft. So to repeat what I said on Clyde Puffer build if there is enough interest I am more than happy to get a repeat order made up. If anyone is interested please send me a message. All I need is 5 people to want one of these sheets to make a re-order viable. The cost by the way would not be prohibitive at £10 for a sheet. Anyway onto some other aspects of my Type 143 build; this time the foremast that supports the Fire Control radar dome. The kit needs some minor modification adding the support lattice work to the forward and aft faces of the mast. These were made from round profile plastic from Evergreen. I have yet to decide whether to make more embellishments such as adding cable trays to the mast structure or not. The other thing I have spent time on is making the Oto Melara Guns, these are unchanged from the kit. I just wanted to make and paint them just to see how they look. Other than that not a lot has happened beyond looking at the mounting arrangements. I hope to make more progress this weekend. Thanks for looking. Paul
  8. I wish my pull moulds come out as well as yours. I have tried this on my Type143 build but it is no where near as good. In answer to your question I need 5 people to make a commitment to make a re-order viable. I will post an appeal for interest on my build log as well to see if that helps. Paul
  9. I was sort of wondering whether I would be asked about the 1/144 railings. I must admit I deliberately designed a generic set so I could use them on other projects that I have other than the Type 143 kit. To give an idea the set has 168 3bar stanchions 56 2bar stanchions and 30 handrail eyes as well as vertical ladders. The only other thing needed to make up the railings is 28SWG wire which just happens to be available as sewing supplies in Hobbycraft. The thing is I had the PE made up professionally so I can get repeat orders if I want as long as I meet a minimum pre-order value. If there is enough interest I am more than happy to do so. The cost by the way would not be prohibitive at a tenner.
  10. I have a book by Brian King, I must read it and see if there any other little gems lurking inside.
  11. Hi Kev, That hatch looks very nicely done and the prop is a very neat idea. Very impressive, I will have to shamelessly steal that one. Paul
  12. Thanks Kev, But it's not really my idea all I have done is to shrink down a technique usually used in larger scale ship models. The advantage of having separate stanchions is that more complex railing structures can be achieved like this one on my 1:96 scale (rather dusty) model of a Type 42. However I do think that 1:144 scale is probably the minimum limit for this technique though.
  13. Thank you for your support and kind comments. As promised I started on fitting some of the guardrails onto the superstructure this weekend. The starting point for this is the PE set that I had designed. I wanted flexibility in my PE design as I intend to use the same PE for railings on other 1:144 scale projects that I have on hold. This meant I needed to follow a different approach to the convention commonly used where stanchion and rail are etched together which are too limiting for my needs. My photo etch has the stanchions only (2 and 3 bar) and I am using 28 SWG wire for the railings component. For anybody who has built larger scale ship models my approach to fitting the guard railings would be familiar. Fundamentally I marked out where the guard rail stanchions were to be sited on the superstructure and drilled 0.45mm holes for the PE stanchion to stand into. I then cut off the number of stanchions I required from the PE fret and tested the hole was deep enough. The diameter of the hole is important; each stanchion has a small flare at the base that sits at deck level to ensure its correct height. Next I cut 3 lengths of 28 SWG wire for the railings. I prefer to use longer lengths than I require and cut back to size once the railings are glued in position. The wire was pre-bent to the shape I required, and the stanchions slotted on to the wire and then the stanchions dropped in to the drilled out hole in the superstructure, tided up for alignment and then glued into position with super glue. finally the excess lengths of wire were removed. Sounds simple, what actually happens is a frustrating 10 minutes wrestling with trying to coordinate multiple moving pieces into microscopic holes. For longer straight lengths of railing the approach is similar but there is more flex in the wire and one or two stanchions can be glued in place first. The wire was pre-bent to the shape for the upper railing. and the wire for the lower two railings were pushed through the lined up holes of the stanchions. Once in place the stanchions need to be aligned vertically and glued into position. Whilst fitting the railings is time consuming and quite fiddly when compared to the fixed railing type it is actually far more robust when glued into position. I am very satisfied with how this has turned out and it looks quite good even if I say so myself, certainly better than the moulded plastic railings provided with the kit. I have plenty more to do though and I will chip away at the railings as I continue on the build in other areas of the model. That’s it for now. Thank you for looking in.