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nimrod54

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About nimrod54

  • Rank
    Plastic Welder
  • Birthday February 26

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Heywood, Lancashire
  • Interests
    Too many to list here.

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  1. Thanks for the nice comments chaps, it's really kind of you. Bryan The rigging needed a steady hand, a pair of tweezers and LOTS and LOTS of patience.
  2. I don't usually add the sticky-out bits on a build until nearing the end, but I have had add the undercarriage at this early stage. The kit has locating holes for the main legs on top of the nacelle, this gives the model a very nose down stance and I don't feel that this is the correct location. Looking at photos of the Heron 1 the correct location is at the side of nacelle and, to me at least, looks as though it is faired in around this area. I decided to trim the locating pin and cut away some of the material from the rear face of each leg, material was also removed from the nacelles to accept the reshaped leg. This has improved the stance, although I think that it may be a little high at the back end. I am hoping that if I flatten the wheels a little that this will improve things further. On the negative side and despite me drilling a hole in the fuselage from the nose back to the leading edge, then packing this with some aquarium plant weight and liquid gravity, the model is still a tail-sitter and hence the reason for the Blu-tack under the nosewheel. That means that I will have to fix this to a base, still, it maybe an opportunity to model a sandy strip at Barra.
  3. It seems like a group build for being stupid. I have caught Enzo fever with a fourth entry. Good luck with your builds buddy.
  4. Jimbob's black primer tip worked a treat, my choice for this was Humbrol Acrylic Matt Black. This was then covered with a couple of coats of Halfords White Plastic Primer and then some Gloss Appliance White. I will now leave that a few days to harden up. Cheers @dude_gan_ainm, that has been filed away for future use.
  5. That's coming along nicely Brian. I like the details on the instrument panel.
  6. Nicely weathered Lee, it's a shame to think that so many would have ended their days in that state.
  7. That should be fine, it doesn't count until you can run around with it making aircraft noises.
  8. Cheers bud, it's not too bad, perhaps the props could be better shaped. Overall though, I am pleased with how this has turned out. No more building for today however, fence painting calls. How do women manage to make you feel guilty about using your leisure time for enjoyable stuff? I think that there must be a secret training camp somewhere.
  9. I got this one underway last night and, after tidying up the main components, the first job was to drill a hole along the fuselage length from the nose. I will fill this with some Liquid Gravity and I hope that will prevent the model from becoming a tail sitter. The wings and fin parts were then added to the fuselage, taking care to line up the wing roots with those moulded on the fuselage to give a best fit and I am hoping that this will minimize any filling/clean up. However, this left a Grand Canyon sized gap at the forward edge of the wing join which I have filled with a piece of scrap resin from the kit.
  10. Thanks Jimbob, the black primer sounds like a good plan to me.
  11. OK chaps, I have hit a bit of a snag with this one, and I am hoping that someone may have an easy fix to the problem. The plan was to finish this as per the box version in white using Halfords GAW as the topcoat. Taking on board the sound advice from @Col. about painting multi-colour kits I applied some Halfords grey plastic primer to the kit. Several filling and sanding sessions have taken place since then with a light primer coat reapplied to these areas after each session. In preparation for a final check of the joins before starting to apply the topcoats, I decided that I should go over the grey with some white primer and this is the result. As you can see the red colour of the wing has come through the primer giving it a pink cast, it is particularly bad on the underside where a recent sanding session has taken place, but the doors had no sanding on this occasion and look almost as bad. My initial thought was that this was due to me using ordinary white primer and that the solvent from this had permeated the grey, reacting with the plastic, so I re-primed these areas with a coat of white plastic primer to see if it would seal this, but it is still pulling the red colour through. Looking back at the photos of the model in grey primer I think that there is a slight pink tinge to that colour too, making me more convinced that it is a paint solvent v plastic problem, but that could be me looking for something that isn't there. I was wondering if a light sanding to smooth the surface off, then sealing over this with Klear would help to resolve the issue. I could then go over that with some acrylic gloss. Any advice would be most welcome
  12. That's a great result and nice scratch work on the DF loops.
  13. Thanks guys, there aren't too many parts to this kit, but I think that there may be some extras that can be added, even if it is only the aerials. I am quite conscious of the fact that I still owe @Col. a Vulcan for the 70's NATO vs Warsaw Pact GB too, but I am hopeful of completing them both for the respective deadlines.
  14. Hi Jean, That is because you have the standard Mk1 eyeball and what you need is the new MK.6 bionic fit, you would then be able to see the teeth. I must admit to having to look that one up bud, it's not a type I am familiar with, but it looks a bit of a big beastie.
  15. With nearly two months to go, I thought that I would make a start on a final model for this GB. My choice of subject is this little 1/144 Welsh Models Heron 1 and here are the obligatory box and contents shots before I get started. After giving the parts a wash in some warm soapy water, the next job will be to separate them from the pouring lugs.