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Revell 1:72 Dambuster Lancaster


HP42

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Well I finally finished the old girl. I used Humbrol Matt Cote in the end and it still came out a little too shiny and it darkened the brown in the camo. The decals were a pain to try and flatten even with Decal Fix. There's quite a few faults all over it but it was my first proper go with an airbrush. I messed the lead staining up quite a bit but it doesn't look too bad once I tidied up the overspray (done since the piccy was taken) It's nothing like the quality of some of the stuff I see on this site but I'm happy with it and so is my lad who can look up at as his ceiling and gorp at it next to the Superfortress.

DSC00065.jpg

Phil

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Your first airbrush job looks great Phil. Did you use a mask or did you do the pattern freehand?

I've got that old classic Revell kit in the stash. I've often thought of giving it a go.

Cheers,

Mark

Thanks for the kind words of encouragement!

I masked the camo using white tack. I simply used scissors to cut ribbons of the stuff and laid it out where I wanted to mask off. It's a trick I picked up from here I think, and it certainly works. The line between camo and black underside was kept sharp with modelling masking tape. I did the camo first and then added the black underside.

I'm impressed with the airbrush. I might switch to using acrylics though as enamels stink the house out and need nasty chemicals during clean-up. Am I right in thinking you can't place enamels and acrylics together? What are the rules with these paints if I'm to avoid a crinkly mess?

Phil

(still going vertical on the learning curve) :hypnotised:

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that looks pretty good, even for your first go with an airbrush Phil. If you arr contemplating acrylics I would recommend Tamiya, gunze or xtracrylics thinned with there own proprietry thinner and you should not go wrong, you can get amazingly thin lines. I have had no problems using acrylics over enamels and vice-verse, as long as you give one ample time to dry before using the other

Regards

Bruce

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I'm impressed with the airbrush. I might switch to using acrylics though as enamels stink the house out and need nasty chemicals during clean-up. Am I right in thinking you can't place enamels and acrylics together? What are the rules with these paints if I'm to avoid a crinkly mess?

Phil

(still going vertical on the learning curve) :hypnotised:

Phil, you are right about mixing enamels and acrylics-don't bother, they don't mix. I used to use enamels fairly exclusively but now only spray with acrylics-Tamiya, Hannants xtracrylics and Gunze. They are all great paints, non toxic and I mix them all up together fairly freely with Tamiya thinners. However if you spray the slightly glossy Gunze paint you shouls leave them to dry for 24-48 hrs before masking/handling as gloss paints almost always take longer to cure fully, whereas the matt tamiya and xtracrylics I've handled and masked within 10 minutes of spraying ( but would recommend a little longer!). Also, if blu-tack (and I imagine white tack) can stain acrylics slightly, but by if you give the paint a polish with a cloth, then matt varnish it usually goes.

Building models with your kids and having fun is what it's all about, though my 3 year olds a little young to help with my photo etched stuff, but the sooner I can get her on sanding duties the better! Nice Lanc.

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Phil, you are right about mixing enamels and acrylics-don't bother, they don't mix. I used to use enamels fairly exclusively but now only spray with acrylics-Tamiya, Hannants xtracrylics and Gunze.

Sorry just realised you were asking if yoy can spray enamels over acrylics and vice-versa, not mix them :banghead: I've done it without problems, just recommend the paint is cured fully or it could cockle or react, and don't spray too heavily.

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finished just in time to pick up the new revell lanc :coolio:

Nice first attempt with an AB. How did you find the white tac. I've to date used the blu version but i find its a bit sticky and can leave a residue

I did notice the new Revell Lanc but I've had this kit for about 6 months anyway. I started it then put it back in the box only to pick it back up again this week. I found the white tack worked very well. I used a new slab of it and cut thin ribbons. The edge was quite sharp compared to trying to squash down a 'snake' of the stuff. It came off with no hassle at all.

As regards the paint, so I can use one type (acrylic/enamel) on top of another as long as either has clearly had time to cure? How does rattle-can primer work in the equation? Can anything other than car paint (cellulose?) be placed on top of it?

As for Lancasters, I've got another one to do. It's the Airfix type from the VE Day box set. I'm happy to build it as 'Johnny Walker' as this is how I saw the aircraft at Waddington in 1998. I managed to get my Grandfather and myself into the aircraft after talking nicely to the Pilot. My grandfather built fuselage sections during the war and had never been inside a completed aircraft. It made his day and he talked about it until the day he died a few years later. So that scheme is quite special to me for this reason.

Having said that, I do like the Phantom of the Ruhr markings. I see Airfix are doing this on the BBMF gift set but I'd rather buy the new Revell and make it up from this kit. Is anyone doing the Phantom decals as a separate sheet? I'm sure Mr Freightdog would do quite well if Revell didn't offer them.

Phil

Edited by Billy-Joe-Jim-Bob
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Having said that, I do like the Phantom of the Ruhr markings. I see Airfix are doing this on the BBMF gift set but I'd rather buy the new Revell and make it up from this kit. Is anyone doing the Phantom decals as a separate sheet? I'm sure Mr Freightdog would do quite well if Revell didn't offer them.

Phil

Alternatively they are available....... doh! :who-let-rip:

https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=X05572

Phil

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  • 7 years later...

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