bootneck Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Hi Sebastien, If it is still not working then there's no point in repeating the problem, you may need to go back to basics. Select one of the pieces, one that doesn't print as a multi-piece slicing. Add individual supports and then save it, say as v.1 or whatever. Slice the part and print it. If it comes out successfully then the problem is having too many items on the single raft. If it doesn't, then the likelihood is it could be how the support is connected to the part. Looking at the engine part [delamination] perhaps a complete and solid support is causing it to fail, try individual support posts, as per normal recommended preparations. Start small and work up to multi-pieces when each phase has been proved. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 I have done (mostly) that to get to the single engine set. The single engine set prints without a hitch (cf. first picture of my previous post). I'd love to understand why the second picture happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bootneck Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Perhaps making sure that the support is in full contact with the part. When I attach supports, I add another 0.2 to 0.4 extra into the part to printed, just to ensure grip. It can be selected in the slicing software. The only other element that I can think of is care and maintenance of the printer. I see that you've had a couple of failed prints, prop blade etc., and those detached parts will have fallen into the vat, then cured to the vat instead of the plate. Do you clean out the vat, completely, and remove any cured parts on the FEP before replacing with filtered or clean resin? Any detached parts will act as a mask on the FEP, thereby preventing the UV light to penetrate through the FEP to do its work. I'm trying to identify and cover all options, by working on areas that I have suffered failures myself in the past. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 I clean the vat with the printer function, filter the resin when bottling it back, clean the FEP filter with alcohol, clean the plate with alcohol too, let everything dry... S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bootneck Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 I think that I have exhausted my options and possible solutions then. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 You don't necessarily need to print them separately, just each part not joined to one large base. You can have multiple parts on the plate without joining them and that will probably work better. Ensure that there is plenty of space between them and that they are not too close to the edge. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Well, even the plate with a single engine set doesn't print. I'll be sulking for a couple of days if you don't mind. S. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Can you post a screenshot of your print settings, and also of the model in the slicer. That may help us spot something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 (edited) Sure. I haven't changed the settings since I calibrated the printer using the cones of calibration. The single set I have printed succesfully: The set I'm failing to print with the same resin as for the print above: I'm thinking the resin sticks too much to the FEP. S. Edited January 23 by Sebastien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebf2k Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 On 1/21/2024 at 11:08 AM, Sebastien said: So I've tried to print four engines simultaneously. Didn't work. So I tried to print two. Didn't work either. First try: Yay. Second try: What am I doing wrong? TIA, S. I think you need some holes at the bottom and inside those large cylindrical parts. It looks to me like they are making giant suction cups which can cause layer shifts, delamination, and even pulling the entire part off. When one part fails, it can cascade to other parts being printed. You can have chunks floating in your vat making it impossible to get a level surface for the next layer so layers just keep building up on the film and not growing on the part. It might have worked when you only printed one set because the overall suction force was smaller and the film was able to overcome it. I also suggest not printing parts directly on the build plate but to use supports. Here's a good video for how to support a model with a flat base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 Hi, There are supports for the big parts. And there are half circular holes (2mm radius) all around them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I still think your base and supports are the issue. There is no space between the supports and that leaves no way for air to get in. IE you have suction. I would get rid of those huge supports/extensions, at least on the large cylindrical parts - try removing every second one at a minimum and leave more space for air to get inside and under the parts as they lift. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Hi Ian, I replaced the FEP filter with an nFEP one, cleaned everything and sent the single engine set to print: total success now. I fail to see where the extensions I made as supports (only for the engine cowling and the spinner parts) are a problem. There are ten 4mm diameter half circle holes thet go through them at the bottom, ten more at the top for the cowling, 6 top/bottom for the spinner. The only bit I have succion with is the front of the cowling, and it's rather visible on the surface of the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebf2k Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 (edited) On 1/26/2024 at 2:29 PM, Sebastien said: Hi, There are supports for the big parts. And there are half circular holes (2mm radius) all around them. I believe these purple shaded areas are your supports? Looking at the second image I don't see a way for the suction to be released from the area inside your ring supports. Make some bigger openings in your ring walls where it meets the build plate, and more of them, to release the suction. Where the support touches the parts is fine. I also recommend angling your parts a bit instead of building them straight up. When you print the layers that start the flat bottom of your parts you are adding a huge amount of print area all at once which is probably too much for the film to release. I think the combination of the suction force trapped in your ring support and the massive increase in print area when it gets to the bottom of your parts are causing your issues. Link to video explaining drain holes / suction force: Link to a video explaining print surface area: Edited January 30 by Ebf2k typos, added video link 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 On 1/29/2024 at 6:55 PM, Sebastien said: There are ten 4mm diameter half circle holes thet go through them at the bottom, ten more at the top for the cowling, 6 top/bottom for the spinner. As per the post above, those small semi-circles are not enough. Reduce the support area since you don't need it all the way round like that. I would go for narrower supports with an almost equal distance gap between each one, so you have large slots between the supports to release the suction. Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six97s Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Are you still using Elegoo 8K resin? I've just tried it with my Mars 4 Ultra and had nothing but problems - and yes, I ran several tests with the Cones of Calibration to dial in the exposure. Some parts will print correctly; others have the supports squished into them (but raft firmly adhered to build plate); some fail to print at all while surrounding parts are fine. I'm reverting to Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey. Exposure is much quicker, it doesn't smell as bad and I had no failures at all with that resin, even with sub-optimal ambient temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 14 hours ago, Six97s said: Are you still using Elegoo 8K resin? I've just tried it with my Mars 4 Ultra and had nothing but problems - and yes, I ran several tests with the Cones of Calibration to dial in the exposure. Some parts will print correctly; others have the supports squished into them (but raft firmly adhered to build plate); some fail to print at all while surrounding parts are fine. I'm reverting to Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey. Exposure is much quicker, it doesn't smell as bad and I had no failures at all with that resin, even with sub-optimal ambient temperature. Hi, I've switched to JamgHe Standard Plus Resin 10k. It's cheaper, and I haven't had a single mishap (well, I've had some, but they were my fault without exception). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 With bigger holes on the support, everything prints. BUT. Suction cup effect ruins the cowling front. So I added a 1 cm shift in one support and printed a pair. I'll go by pairs from now on. And one thing that went as smoothly as I could hope: So thanks to all who answered, put up with my stubborness, withstood my being foolish, and who were generally much nicer than I should have hoped for. You're great, guys! S. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebf2k Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Awesome results! Great job slogging through it and getting it printing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 (edited) Hi folks, My latest blooper: What can cause this shift (seen inside the part too)? Oh, and there's another shift just around the gridlike stuff on the sides of the part... TIA, S. Edited February 13 by Sebastien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 My first guess is that those two spindly sidewalls are flexing when it comes to printing the top section. There's no reason you can't have supports coming up the inside and attaching internally to those top sections. First thing I would do if you're determined to keep that grid like base [I'm not a fan of that) is cut a big hole in it and add standard supports from there up into the structure to give it some rigidity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebf2k Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Layers shifts are generally caused by either a suction cup effect, or a large change in print area on that layer. I don't think suction is the issue here since the design is pretty open on the bottom. Is there a firewall or bulkhead or something inside cone that isn't shown from this angle? As Hendie mentioned, some additional internal supports to stabilize that area of the print could help. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 Hi, Thanks to both. There's no bulkhead. I've added support, it's in the printer right now. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH1969 Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 16 hours ago, Ebf2k said: Layers shifts are generally caused by either a suction cup effect, or a large change in print area on that layer. I don't think suction is the issue here since the design is pretty open on the bottom. Is there a firewall or bulkhead or something inside cone that isn't shown from this angle? I have fond that on a the areas that EB has mentioned to add the largest fillet radius as possible where the transition is on an internal are like that that is not seen when the model is on its wheels scale does not matter, the fillet will reduce the shock of a sudden thickness change on a part as much as possible and reduce or remove the separation or sinking as much as possible the same thing to some extend can cause a similar effect in injection moulded plastic. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 I've decided to use the squishy thing between my ears for a change. I have baroque results when I print the nacelle without the gear doors. So I made a chamfer around the gear doors (to ease the separation between the doors and the nacelle) and combined them to the nacelle. This should work much better... S. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now