1965 Aurora 1/25 Aston Martin DB4 as re-issued by Revell/Monogram (1997 kit)

[mikevillena]

On 12/5/2022 at 11:47 PM, JeroenS said:

Phew, you're doing a lot of work here. It's starting to blend in nicely. 

Thank you JeroenS.

On 12/6/2022 at 1:55 AM, Malc2 said:

Wow, I just read through the whole thread, some great and careful work going on!

Interesting to hear your findings on different fillers.

 

Malc.

Thank you Malc. I had just tried Mr. White Putty and it was not to my liking. I will stick to Tamiya's Basic putty for now since I've developed a feel for it.
 

On 12/6/2022 at 2:29 AM, Noel Smith said:

This model will be amazing once finished!

Old kits like this really are a Labour of love to take the time and trouble to correct.

It's the small details that make all the difference as we!l  as the major reworking and filling etc.

Noel, the key words are "once it's finished" 🤣 But thank you for your kind sentiments. I had no idea what I was getting into and how extensive the kit's shortcomings were but there is a certain perverse charm to an ill fitting kit from the 60's. Let's just hope that my ambition doesn't get the better of me. 

[mikevillena]

I started working on thinning out the plastic around the bonnet opening and will eventually build out the underlying structures. My cheap Chinese knock-off Foredom was perfect as I was able to grind the plastic slowly and carefully as the motor had more than adequate torque even at near stalling speed. I wouldn't be as comfortable if I had to use a Dremel.

 

I am continuing to address the gap between the bonnet and the opening as well.

 

I was unhappy with the bodge job I did on the scoop filler piece and my hamfisted sanding created a flat and a visible step between it and the compound curve of the bonnet. The only way to fix it was with some surgery.

 

 

 

 

I then restored the compound curve on the bonnet. Ignore the jagged opening for now. I will also shim the scoop up and rework the inlet shape to better match my reference photos.

 

I began work on the tailight area. I decided not to use the horrible chrome plated bits that came with the kit. Instead, I will scratchbuild the distinctive "frenched" bezel. First I had to fill in the keying slot with some of my dissolved styrene. It's extremely tacky and readily "strings".

 

I then sanded the area flat once the dissolved styrene hardened overnight. 

 

I forgot to take some in-process shots but I essentially pre-shaped a bit of styrene strip into a flattened "hoop" and glued it on. Once the cement has cured, I ran a bead of CA around the transition to reinforce things. Then I applied some putty and began blending the bezel with the surrounding bodywork.

 

 

A better view

[Malc2]

You are really getting your moneys worth of modelling from this kit!

It must be a great feeling as you fix each problem and the shape really starts to come together and look more like the real thing.

 

Malc.

[mikevillena]

13 hours ago, Malc2 said:

You are really getting your moneys worth of modelling from this kit!

It must be a great feeling as you fix each problem and the shape really starts to come together and look more like the real thing.

 

Malc.

Hello Malc. It does feel great when I am able to solve a problem and be able to carry out the solution as best ad my meager skills will allow. In all seriousness, I honestly believe that I've improved my puttying and sanding skills to competent which is all I can hope for.

[mikevillena]

Now that I'm on vacation I can devote more time to this project.  

I tackled the other tailight bezel. I pre-curved a length of styrene strip by passing it between my thumb and the back of a hobby blade (blunt side of course 😆). I learned this trick in the late 70's from an Airfix book on modelling AFVs.

 

 

I anchor the piece onto the model with a tiny dab of Mr. Cement S

 

I allow that tack joint to firm up and then I proceed to tack the rest of the length into place much as a welder would. I use tweezers to manipulate the shape as I go. 

 

I then carefully trim the excess and join the ends together. Once the shape looks okay, I allow the cement to harden and then I add a bead of CA along the inside and the outside of the joint to reinforce it.

 

 

Lots of putty to begin the blending process.

 

I added shims to the scoop until it was close to the correct visual height. I will allow the glue to harden overnight and will proceed to trim the excess before offering it up to the bonnet again.

 

I played around with the idea of "slush" casting a thinner windscreen. I found my old Alumilite Mold Putty kit and made an exploratory mold of the kit windscreen. I didn't do a good job this time as the resulting mold has a few flaws so I will make another. It's a learning process after all. 😀

 

 

 

[hendie]

I love the work you are doing on this kit.  I tackled the Aurora Super Spy Car on this forum years ago - it was a rip-off of the 007 DB5 so I know some of the pain you are going through. There's something intensely satisfying taking an old kit like this and breathing some life into it to bring it up to a "modern" standard.

[Noel Smith]

Mike, in your trials of different fillers, have you tried De Luxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty? I find it really good.

[mikevillena]

23 hours ago, hendie said:

I love the work you are doing on this kit.  I tackled the Aurora Super Spy Car on this forum years ago - it was a rip-off of the 007 DB5 so I know some of the pain you are going through. There's something intensely satisfying taking an old kit like this and breathing some life into it to bring it up to a "modern" standard.

Thank you hendie.  Yes, I saw your EPIC build. You took what was a glue bomb and turned it into a masterpiece build. Talk about making a silk purse from a sow's ear. 😍

14 hours ago, Noel Smith said:

Mike, in your trials of different fillers, have you tried De Luxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty? I find it really good.

Hi Noel. I've read good reviews on Amazon. I think I'll stick with the solvent based Tamiya filler for the time being as I like the iron grip adhesion, fine texture and hardness not to mention the ability to hold a sharp and crisp edge. I've had bad experiences with acrylic fillers in the past with Vallejo.  I can see how the acrylic based filler can be a boon when dealing with wing root gaps in model aircraft and I will try it again when I start building model aircraft.

[mikevillena]

A bit more progress today while watching Goodwood Revival on YouTube. I started cleaning up the bonnet scoop internals. I'd best do it now as access will be difficult once it's installed.

 

I did more filling and sanding on the bonnet to fully restore the compound curve. I really do like the Tamiya Basic Putty as it cures hard with super fine texture. You can see how beautifully it feathers into the surrounding area. (I polished the area to help spot imperfections)

 

Something that was troubling me was the profile of the wings. I think the headlights are a touch too high. My reference photos show a gradual curve up from the headlights to the top of the wings when viewed from the side. I am currently exploring how to resolve the issue. I could also just lope the headlights off and convert to a DB4 GT but that would entail even more bodywork as I will have to add some quasi-pontoons under each headlight (ala Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa customer race car; the factory cars did not have the pontoon fenders). Of course I would have to scratch build the headlamp covers too. More deliberation is needed.

 

I've arrived at a point wherein I will have to decide the direction of the build and I've decided to go the vintage race car route. I would have to do some extensive modifications on just about every part of the chassis and I will have to scratch build a lot of details.  I'm still a bit lost on wheel choices and as much as I would love a set of Motobitz 3D printed wires, I cannot afford the price plus postage to the USA. I'll have to scrounge around to see if I still have the wheels from an old Italeri kit I once had.

A quick overview of what little progress so far:

 

 

 

I ground off the feeble chin air scoop and fabricated a larger one:

 

I think the larger air scoop would complement the brutish look of the car. The Jag is a stunningly beautiful car whereas the Aston is a graceful brute. No wonder James Bond drove one. 

Edited December 12, 2022 by mikevillena

[mikevillena]

Plastic surgery has begun. Some very nervous moments for sure. 😬

 

After cleaning up the cuts, I offered up the disembodied headlight bezel. Looks promising. (huge sigh of relief) The drop is relatively mild.

 

Glued securely in place with the gaps filled in with Microballoons and thin CA. I began shaping the new contour.

 

 

A quick shot of Mr. Surfacer 1000 so that I can see the contours better.

 

Modified wing.

 

The stock wing.

 

One of the many reference photos.

 

[Noel Smith]

I will have to try the Tamiya filler, judging by your good references to it.

Thanks for the recommendation..

[Malc2]

Wonderful stuff!

Malc.

[JeroenS]

The modified position of the headlight makes a big difference. 

[mikevillena]

18 hours ago, Noel Smith said:

I will have to try the Tamiya filler, judging by your good references to it.

Thanks for the recommendation..

Noel, just remember to have good ventilation when you use it as it has a rather high level of VOC and a strong odour.  I'm almost convinced that it has some ceramic mixed into it as the when cured, it is cold to the touch and almost feels like porcelain. Oh, and use a lot of soapy water and wet sand. 

18 hours ago, Malc2 said:

Wonderful stuff!

Malc.

Thank you Malc. 😀

14 hours ago, JeroenS said:

The modified position of the headlight makes a big difference. 

JeroenS - I agree. I'm also following your tanker build and the many challenges that you've had to overcome. I'm definitely rooting for you! 😃

[mikevillena]

Well, just a small update. I realized that I should have shimmed the headlight bucket forward before I glued it into position. Not wanting to cut everything apart, I tried a simpler approach. I cut a section of styrene tubing of the right diameter, dressed the cut and glued it in place, After I blend it in, I will trim it back. Since I have yet to modify the other side, I can use this simpler technique.

 

 

I kept thinking that something was out of proportion but I couldn't put my finger on it. I knew that the tailight housing is too far to the rear and that the rear wing is too long. Then I found this photo.

 

The Aurora kit really got the rear wings all wrong. Even the rear window is too large and the boot lid is out of proportion too. Time to re-assess things and try to come up with a solution. 

 

At least I found the unused wheels from my old Italeri 250 GTO kit. They're a tad bit too wide.

[Noel Smith]

Thanks for the tips about the Tamiya filler Mike.

My goodness, what a labour of love correcting that old kit.I

I am sure it will be a fantastic model when finished!

Edited December 13, 2022 by Noel Smith

[ElectricLightAndy]

You're doing an amazing job with this kit, if it helps I am a coachbuilder and have done a DB4 if you would like any bare metal references.

 

Cheers,

 

Andy.

 

 

[k5054nz]

On 12/11/2022 at 3:07 PM, hendie said:

I tackled the Aurora Super Spy Car on this forum years ago - it was a rip-off of the 007 DB5

As much as I'm enjoying this I'd love to see(revisit?) your build hendie - do you have a link handy for it?

[hendie]

22 minutes ago, k5054nz said:

do you have a link handy for it?

 

Without wishing to disrupt Mike's fantastic work on this DB4, here's a link

 

 

Hopefully my scratchbuilding skills have improved since then

 

 

 

 

[k5054nz]

Thank you, that's my day sorted and now we can return to Mike's excellent thread!

[mikevillena]

13 hours ago, Noel Smith said:

Thanks for the tips about the Tamiya filler Mike.

My goodness, what a labour of love correcting that old kit.I

I am sure it will be a fantastic model when finished!

No problem Noel. BTW, get a painting knife. It makes applying and manipulating the putty a little bit easier, rather like spreading icing on a cake. Also use 600 grit or higher and wet sand. You will be surprised at how easily it sands.

10 hours ago, ElectricLightAndy said:

You're doing an amazing job with this kit, if it helps I am a coachbuilder and have done a DB4 if you would like any bare metal references.

 

Cheers,

 

Andy.

 

 

Thank you so very much Andy. That photo helps a lot. Bare metal really takes away the distortion and the tricks that colour plays on perception. It must be amusing to watch a modeler like myself struggle with a plastic model  whereas you've laid your hands on the real thing and have shaped metal as a living and as an art form.  I have nothing but the highest esteem for your work and indeed the traditional coach builders at Aston. I had no idea the level of craftsmanship and artistry involved. 😍

1 hour ago, hendie said:

 

Without wishing to disrupt Mike's fantastic work on this DB4, here's a link

 

 

Hopefully my scratchbuilding skills have improved since then

 

 

 

 

You are not disrupting anything my friend. That miraculous restoration that you did was truly epic.

1 hour ago, k5054nz said:

Thank you, that's my day sorted and now we can return to Mike's excellent thread!

I didn't mind at all k5054nz. 

[mikevillena]

Ok, I decided to try and resolve that rear wing issue. I dug out my decade old Tamiya Epoxy Putty but it had hardened to an unusable mass. I'll have to use what I have on hand.

 

I thought about constructing a framework out of styrene and planking things. As always I had to step back and realize that I am overthinking things. So I slapped some of the Tamiya Basic putty and shaped it into a tail fin ala 60's Caddy or an Alpine A210. The tail fin will help guide subsequent applications of the putty.

 

 

I also have a growing suspicion that the rear window's rake is all wrong and should be shallower with the window being smaller. This will have an impact on the shape and size as well as the vertical location of the boot lid. Sigh, it's as though I've opened up a can of worms.

 

 

I then built up the shapes using thin layers allowing each layer to harden. I know it looks ugly 🤓

 

After the initial few passes of 400 grit I applied more putty to refine the rough shapes.

 

Starting to look better.

 

Stark contrast with the other unmodified side. I'll have to reshape and redefine the tailight bezel.

 

 

[hendie]

35 minutes ago, mikevillena said:

I know it looks ugly 

 

what you're doing here takes bravery and conviction to follow it through.  I know you'll end up doing a fantastic job of it.  This is shaping up to be an epic build

fwiw I don't think any manufacturer has truly captured the shape of the DB4 or the DB5 especially in the glass areas.

[Noel Smith]

Thanks Mike

I think I have some artists palette knives kicking around somewhere to try with my filler.

The fine grades of Wet n Dry are very good for modelling used either way, wet or dry.

Like you I find them very good.

[mikevillena]

18 hours ago, hendie said:

 

what you're doing here takes bravery and conviction to follow it through.  I know you'll end up doing a fantastic job of it.  This is shaping up to be an epic build

fwiw I don't think any manufacturer has truly captured the shape of the DB4 or the DB5 especially in the glass areas.

hendie, I'm not sure if it's bravery or foolhardiness on my part coupled with a disconnect between my ambition and my meager ability 🤣. But I do thank you for the sentiment and it certainly helps my mojo. This is turning out to be at once a nightmare and a real challenge and it really kills the project velocity faster than a pie thrown against a brick wall. 

8 hours ago, Noel Smith said:

Thanks Mike

I think I have some artists palette knives kicking around somewhere to try with my filler.

The fine grades of Wet n Dry are very good for modelling used either way, wet or dry.

Like you I find them very good.

👍