T-33 T-bird GWH 1/48 Dayglo scheme

[Red Dot]

Make sure you get the flap supports in the right places and they go on very easily

 

Andy

[Rob K.]

15 minutes ago, Red Dot said:

Make sure you get the flap supports in the right places and they go on very easily

 

Andy

Sure, thanks. Will follow the sequence in the addendum 👍

 

Rgds

 

Rob

[Rob K.]

Hi,

 

Not one of my brightest moments this morning. Was trying to fit the portside door of the main landing gear. I noticed it was way too long, so blamed the kit  manufacturer for oversizing this and started cutting material off the door in order to make it fit. Something didn't look right and I got my reference book out (Should have done this before hand......)

 

Discovered that the doors connected to the main strutt, leg (whatever the correct terminology is....) consisted of 2 parts.

I forgot to make the cut along the seam lines.

 

Thus a door with profile was completely ruined. 😬

 

 

 

Decided to make a new door from plastic card using the outline of the starboard door 🤔

 

Sanded the leftover bits of the door down to very thin, so I only had the raised profile left  and glued this flat  onto the new plastic card door.

 

 

 

 

 

Added missing bits with styrene strips of 0.5mm.

 

 

Did some shaping, priming and sprayed the metal back on:

 

The result below. Not ideal, but it will do.

 

 

Just the top bit that is slightly different in size, but that will disappear in the wheel well and out of sight.

Once dry and the wash is applied and removed it is ready to be installed.

 

 

Nearly finished, Hopefully will show the finished product today still.

 

Thanks for watching,

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

 

 

[Silver Fox]

Good catch and save. Onwards and upwards

[Rob K.]

22 minutes ago, Silver Fox said:

Good catch and save. Onwards and upwards

Thanks SF!

[baldwin8]

I have a Dayglo T-33 of my own, same kit, so this thread is of interest to me. There are some nice points to the kit but far more challenges.

You are doing a great job and looking forward to more results.

 

PS Strut door would be a correct term.

[Rob K.]

3 minutes ago, baldwin8 said:

I have a Dayglo T-33 of my own, same kit, so this thread is of interest to me. There are some nice points to the kit but far more challenges.

You are doing a great job and looking forward to more results.

 

PS Strut door would be a correct term.

Thanks Baldwin,

 

Indeed, nicely detailed kit, but I have been struggling at times. Especially the nose gear construction, which is not too rigid and which kept giving way. Perhaps because I have not been following the instruction sheet to the letter, but who does.......

 

Thanks for your feedback,

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

[Red Dot]

The air brakes hover in mid air. They don't attach to the fuselage at the front edge.

 

Good save on the wheel door.

 

Andy

[Rob K.]

6 minutes ago, Red Dot said:

The air brakes hover in mid air. They don't attach to the fuselage at the front edge.

 

Good save on the wheel door.

 

Andy

Thanks Andy. Despite my mishaps today, I did manage to figure out the air brake construction at least and the flaps went on fine. it is just figuring out which antennas to put on and re-installing the little pitot tube. Almost done.

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

[baldwin8]

40 minutes ago, Red Dot said:

The air brakes hover in mid air. They don't attach to the fuselage at the front edge.

Red Dot is correct, the front end of each speed brake has rollers and the speed brakes roll back as it opens so there is a gap at the front when open. Google "T-33 speed brakes" and you will some very good pictures to show this.

I had a few years maintaining CT-33s with the Canadian Forces, so I would be happy to answer anything you are wondering about.

[Rob K.]

14 minutes ago, baldwin8 said:

Red Dot is correct, the front end of each speed brake has rollers and the speed brakes roll back as it opens so there is a gap at the front when open. Google "T-33 speed brakes" and you will some very good pictures to show this.

I had a few years maintaining CT-33s with the Canadian Forces, so I would be happy to answer anything you are wondering about.

Thanks Baldwin,

 

Something that I have been wondering about; what is the purpose of the "handle bar" like parts underneath the front windshield on top of the dashboard? 

 

Did you also work on the Canadair  CF-5's? I am thinking of possibly obtaining Kinetic's (N)F 5-B? (After having built the Canadair NF-5A recently. A good source is always handy........

 

Thanks,

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

[baldwin8]

49 minutes ago, Rob K. said:

Something that I have been wondering about; what is the purpose of the "handle bar" like parts underneath the front windshield on top of the dashboard? 

 

Did you also work on the Canadair  CF-5's? I am thinking of possibly obtaining Kinetic's (N)F 5-B? (After having built the Canadair NF-5A recently.

If we are talking about the same thing, that would be a windscreen demister tube. My kit is all taped up ready for paint so I am have to guess a bit there. Like a bicycle handlebar?

 

Yes I did work on the CF-5 for four years towards the end of their time with the CAF. PM me if you have any questions about this, although I have never owned the kit.

[Antti_K]

Rob, your scratch built item looks better than the original part. So don't worry and keep on modeling🙂

 

Cheers,

Antti

[Rob K.]

1 hour ago, baldwin8 said:

If we are talking about the same thing, that would be a windscreen demister tube. My kit is all taped up ready for paint so I am have to guess a bit there. Like a bicycle handlebar?

 

Yes I did work on the CF-5 for four years towards the end of their time with the CAF. PM me if you have any questions about this, although I have never owned the kit.

Thanks Baldwin, a demister tube makes sense. Yes, it is like a bicycle handlebar. I'll keep you in mind when I have the F-5B in my possession and start building. Thanks a lot.

 

Rgds

[Antti_K]

F-5B in Canadian colours; I'm in🙂

 

Cheers,

Antti

[Rob K.]

Ok, all finished...........

 

Am reasonably happy with the result. Special thanks to those in the thread with regards to the day-glo fading advise and other.

For sure I am going to try and perfect this day-glo technique further. Just have to find the right subject now, preferably with NMF 🤔. I am not there yet, but it's ok for a first try I think. I'll make some more picks for the RFI section. Again, the camera and lighting makes the orange more yellow, I have placed the yellow boarding ladder for reference. Canopy is not fixed permanently yet.

 

Thanks for following this build.

 

 

 

 

 

Have a great evening.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

 

[Red Dot]

18 minutes ago, Rob K. said:

Ok, all finished...........

 

Am reasonably happy with the result. Special thanks to those in the thread with regards to the day-glo fading advise and other.

For sure I am going to try and perfect this day-glo technique further. Just have to find the right subject now, preferably with NMF 🤔. I am not there yet, but it's ok for a first try I think. I'll make some more picks for the RFI section. Again, the camera and lighting makes the orange more yellow, I have placed the yellow boarding ladder for reference. Canopy is not fixed permanently yet.

 

Thanks for following this build.

 

 

 

 

 

Have a great evening.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

 

Superb job all round Rob. Thanks for the interesting build

 

Andy

[Rob K.]

8 hours ago, Red Dot said:

Superb job all round Rob. Thanks for the interesting build

 

Andy

Andy,

Thanks for the help and feedback along the way.

 

Rgds,

 

Rob

[Muzz]

Great work Rob.

[Shark444]

On 5/6/2020 at 7:02 AM, Rob K. said:

Hi,

 

Am currently re-scribing, re-tracing panel lines with my home made scribing tool.

I also "miss-scribed" as you can see, so I will have to fill those in again. May just go over it again with UMP/Stynylrez grey should it show up in the post today.  After that I will sort some of the rivets out in places.

 

 

Ploughing on............

 

Regards,

 

Rob

 

Rob, I'm interested in how you made your scribing tool.  I have a Micro-Scale one, but it quickly gets dulled and is hard to sharpen because of the shape of the blade so it now tends to skid where it shouldn't resulting in lots of 4-letter invective...

 

Any insight on how we can make one would be appreciated!

[Rob K.]

On 21/05/2020 at 21:31, Shark444 said:

Rob, I'm interested in how you made your scribing tool.  I have a Micro-Scale one, but it quickly gets dulled and is hard to sharpen because of the shape of the blade so it now tends to skid where it shouldn't resulting in lots of 4-letter invective...

 

Any insight on how we can make one would be appreciated!

Hi,

 

It is just an ordinary refillable mechanical pencil but with a needle pin inside. Sometimes I secure it with some very thin CA-glue. Top end of the pin is obviously removed.

 

I tend not to scribe so much into the plastic itself with this tool but on the primer layer. I find this works more accurate for me. You can change them out whenever they get blunt.

 

It is a good primer scriber, but not so much a good plastic scriber (although I have used it as such on ocaission). Riveting I also do on the primer layer and not so much on the plastic anymore.

With this tool I even at times scribe in the paint layer or even varnish layer to get some more panel wash in for example. Because you hold it as a pen you have very good control and accuracy.

 

I have the scribers from the well known brands and they may well work for some, but I cannot get the hang of them.

 

 

 

If I really need to scribe into the plastic itself I tend to use a razor saw blade (without the handle). 2 or 3 light passses usually.

 

 

Nowadays I use scribing tape as a guide (instead of Dymo). For curves I use Tamiya tape, but the material is very flexible and not ideal for scribing.

 

 

 

Hope this helps,

 

Regards,

 

Rob