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1:48 C-45F


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Before the fuselage halves can be joined the instrument panels are fixed to one side

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One of the passenger seats is also attached to the rear of the cabin

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There is only location points at the front and approx 2/3rds the way down the fuselage so I glued the fuselage “in stages” to ensure as clean a fit as I could

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The cockpit windscreen was a really tight fit

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Next up I’ll be fitting the engines, landing gear frames and glueing the wings together.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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ENGINE & STUFF

 

The manual would have you paint the engine/landing gear support chromate however, on photographs I’ve seen these were aluminium, so I’ve over-sprayed them with vallejo acrylic metal colour 77.717 dull aluminium

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The frameworks were then assembled and attached to their bulkheads

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The main landing struts were given a coat of vallejo 77.717 dull aluminium and I used some thin wire to represent break leads

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I had planned to leave the landing struts until after paint, unfortunately these can’t be fitted easily afterwards so I’ve had to fit these now.

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I’ve also given the engine a coat of dull aluminium, the manual suggests the engines should be black but I think that would make them too dark.

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The engine cover was then painted medium blue grey Akan FS:35237

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and the pushrods black XXX

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small holes were drilled to accept some thin lead wire which I gave an ORANGE 80% - DARK RED 20% mix, Tamiya X-6 orange, vallejo 70.814 burnt red

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I know that these ignition leads? would probably have been black but adding a small touch of colour is me using my ‘artistic license’

Both engines were attached to their firewalls(?)

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Tamiya black panel line was used to give the engines a bit of depth

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The carburettor intakes(?) were painted black and then dry-brushed to give a slightly worn look.

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The engine and landing gear sub-assembles were then attached to the nacelles

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And finally the top and bottom of the wings were fixed together

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Next up I’ll be joining the wings to the fuselage.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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I started by joining the two halves of the rear wing

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which was then fixed to the fuselage

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I’ll be painting the twin vertical stabilisers and rudders separately

 

The control yokes, crew and passenger seats were then fixed to the cabin floor

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There was an issue when I tried to join the wings to the fuselage, they didn’t ‘sit’ together however this was easily remedied by shaving a little off the bottom of the forward bulkhead

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The fit was then really quite good, I’ll check for any gaps, once its dried, but I’m guessing they’ll be small if there are any.

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There are a couple of obvious gaps, easily remedied

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There is also a couple of ‘sink marks’ that’ll need some attention

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To check the ‘main seams’ I used a black sharpie…

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…and filled the gaps with some sprue-goo, Tamiya Extra Thin with old sprue(s) dissolved in it making basically some molten plastic that can be sanded and re-scribed once cured.

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Now I’ll leave the sprue-goo set over 24-48 hours before I can sand and re-scribe and then I can prepare for primer and paint.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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So after letting the sprue-goo fully cure I had to apply more to the sink marks in order to build them up to the correct height. I also notice that I’d missed the corresponding sink marks on the top of the fuselage.

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Now that the sprue-goo has cured I can sand and polish it

 

A little re-scribing was needed, I used an ALEC Holly t0.2 line engraver

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I've decided to add some rivet detail, I used a ‘Rosie the Riveter’ to create the rivets

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The wheel wells and engines were masked with sponge and everything was cleaned with some isopropyl to remove any oil and dirt from my fingers, and then everything was given a coat of black UMP/Stynylrez.

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laying down the primer shows I’ve still got some work to do on the seams.

 

Next up I’ll be painting the white fuselage top, anti-glare panels and fabric covered control surfaces.

 

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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29 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

Looking very nice indeed John rivets look good too under paint.

Keep up the good work. 

All the best 

Chris 

thanks Chris

 

the 'Rosie the Riveter' tools are really good the only problem I have is "when" to apply the rivets, I can't decide if I should apply them before or after primer?

Before primer its easier to mark out and lightly sand after they've been applied however, there's a risk of loosing the detail under too many layers of paint.

After the primer reduces, at least, one layer of paint however you don't really get the chance to sand them, 9 times out of 10 this doesn't matter especially if the finished scheme is camo' as I often use a well worn sanding stick as part of the weathering process.

This time I'm going for a 'clean' look as the aircraft will be an early 1960's version and therefore would have been well looked after, unlike a war period version.

 

won't be long, hopefully this weekend, before I can get the first coat of paint on her, I'll be doing the white fuselage top, black anti-glare panels and aluminium coloured control surfaces.

 

After those I'll be tackling the shiny shiny polished aluminium, I'm looking forward to that

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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On 9/10/2018 at 2:47 PM, shortCummins said:

The engine bay and wheel wells were painted with Tamiya XF-4 yellow green, when sprayed over black primer I think it gives a good approximation of chromate.

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Nice progress on this one in general, and I particularly like the chromate finish. Looks spot on.

 

On 9/11/2018 at 3:11 PM, Biggu said:

No worries, John, sorry for the late reply, Mike Belcher's stuff is EXCELLENT, and he is a real good guy...... looks like, maybe another C-45 on your horizon? I love what you are doing here, and the seats, as fragile as they are, I LOVE the bracing, also have you tried any of Peter's stuff from Airscale?  Instrument decals etc...

 

Jeff

Have to agree with your comments on Mike Belcher's stuff. I have a couple of the weapons sets and also the Firebee drones. Great stuff.

 

Terry

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I find sprue goo is great for some situations, filling small open seem gaps for one. Sink areas it sucks. Like you say it's great to scribe over. I have found myself resorting back to perfect plastic putty and squadron green as my go to fillers of choice these days.

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9 hours ago, snapper_city said:

I find sprue goo is great for some situations, filling small open seem gaps for one. Sink areas it sucks. Like you say it's great to scribe over. I have found myself resorting back to perfect plastic putty and squadron green as my go to fillers of choice these days.

I agree with you on this, this is the first time I've tried using it on sink marks, I think "next time" I'll use squadron green (my perfect plastic putty has solidified in the tube!)

 

live and learn?

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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Hi John 

I have some Trumpeter riveting tools and some items don't know the name of and I am going to have a practice. 

 

I have recently been using cyano glue with varying amounts of talcum powder added as a filler. I saw this in Basilisk's excellent Seahawk thread and it works very well and is easily scribed too. I have decanted some of SWMBO's supply (while she was out ) to save money.  

 

Keep up the good work. 

All the best 

Chris 

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3 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

She's really coming along nicely John. I agree with Chris on the riveting also, looks the biz!

 

Looking forward to seeing this one finished.

 

Terry

thanks Terry

this is the first ICM kit I've built, my only complaint is getting some of the more delicate items off the sprue, I'll certainly be looking at some of their other offerings 

 

3 hours ago, bigbadbadge said:

Hi John 

I have some Trumpeter riveting tools and some items don't know the name of and I am going to have a practice. 

 

I have recently been using cyano glue with varying amounts of talcum powder added as a filler. I saw this in Basilisk's excellent Seahawk thread and it works very well and is easily scribed too. I have decanted some of SWMBO's supply (while she was out ) to save money.  

 

Keep up the good work. 

All the best 

Chris 

Thanks Chris

 

I couldn't get on with the Trumpeter riveting tool, the 'Rosie the Riveter' ones and around twice the price of the Trumpeter version but well worth it.

 

I'll have a go at the CA/talc filler, my concern with this is that it would be a little too hot? there's always more than one way to skin a cat!

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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6 minutes ago, shortCummins said:

this is the first ICM kit I've built, my only complaint is getting some of the more delicate items off the sprue, I'll certainly be looking at some of their other offerings 

I agree they are pretty good. I have an ICM 1/72 Dornier 215, and also a Messerschmitt bf 109E and they are amongst the best quality 1/72 models I have seen.

 

Terry

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Following your build reminded me of the time a US Navy Beech pancaked into Masons Creek just short of the perimeter fence of NAS Norfolk, Va.  News of the event raced around the navy project we were living in at the time and I peddled furiously to the creek and got there just in time to see 3 or 4 very wet naval personal, one a navy Wave, stepping ashore from, just maybe, a rubber dinghy.  No fatalities, if memory serves, just a little shaken up.

 

Liking your build thread.

 

Dennis

 

 

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On 22/09/2018 at 17:40, DMC said:

Following your build reminded me of the time a US Navy Beech pancaked into Masons Creek just short of the perimeter fence of NAS Norfolk, Va.  News of the event raced around the navy project we were living in at the time and I peddled furiously to the creek and got there just in time to see 3 or 4 very wet naval personal, one a navy Wave, stepping ashore from, just maybe, a rubber dinghy.  No fatalities, if memory serves, just a little shaken up.

 

Liking your build thread.

 

Dennis

 

 

any landing you can walk away from....

 

must have been frightening for them

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So I needed to do some more work on the fuselage seams, more sanding and re-scribing, then re-spraying some primer I could then start on masking for the paint for white top of the fuselage.

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UMP/Stynylrez primer is a fantastic primer, it allows you to ‘feather’ the edges by using a sanding stick, therefore allowing you to make ‘patch’ repairs, every time I’ve tried that with vallejo primer it comes off in stripes.

 

The anti-glare and de-icing boots were then given a coat of Tamiya XF-85 rubber black and slightly faded with a thinned, 80% thinner - 20% paint, with Tamiya XF-69 NATO black

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The fabric covered control surfaces were then masked and Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminium was sprayed.

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I used Alkan MK7 white for the white top, the colour was built up slowly using thin coats.

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the overspray looks far worse in this photo that it does in real life?

 

Yellow tips were then painted on the vertical stabilisers using Hobby Color H329 FS13538, I had previously given them a ‘base’ of white

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All of these painted surfaces were then given a protective coat of aqua-gloss and masked with Tamiya tape in preparation for the polished aluminium effect.

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Next up I’ll be spraying the polished aluminium.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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As this is going to be an early 60’s aircraft and therefore wouldn’t have been subjected to the riggers of ‘combat maintenance’ I’m going for a ‘clean’ aircraft that will have been more carefully looked after.

So I’m going to try for a polished aluminium look, I’m going to use a new (to me) paint, K-Colors.

The first coat is their XW100 black metal base

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For the polished aluminium I’m going to use K-Colors 61 shine chrome, the instructions on the bottle recommend that the black metal base should be allowed to fully cure for at least 8 hours.

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I would recommend that you have really good light to spray as you’re spraying a reflective surface over black, it becomes difficult to see were you have sprayed very quickly as you can see(?) from the above photo, the photos below are after a 2nd coat…

 

After a few touch-ups, I then removed the masks and gave everything a coat of K-Colors XW100 super gloss

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This is the first time I used the K-Colors paint and I must say I’m very, very impressed, I’ll certainly be getting more from their range.

My ‘natural metal’ colours of choice so far have been vallejo metal colour range, I don’t have a spray booth therefore I’m restricted to acrylics, for example I’ve not used Alclad lacquers so I can’t comment on how K-Colors compare.

Would I choose K-Colors over vallejo, yes I would depending on what effect I’m after, if I want a ‘clean’ aircraft then defiantly however, if I want a ‘well used’ aircraft then it has to be vallejo. The ‘current’ big plus for vallejo is the choice of colours/metals and availability, I bought the K-Colors at Telford, I’m guessing you can buy them online?

 

Next up I’ll be adding the decals.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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I have come to this late but have really enjoyed watching your progress. While I was rooting for scheme number one or two I think you've finished the kit really

well. One criticism of the kit - they have moulded great seats, that will not be seen, and treated the engines as an afterthought although your detailing has

rescued them. Looking forward to the decalling.

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I’m using Caracal Models C-45 Expeditor set CD48076, the version I’ve chosen is 51-11446 USAF Military Air Transport Service from approx. 1961

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overall I really like these Caracal decals, a couple of them broke-up however I think that was probably my fault, water too warm, the ‘stars and bars’ on the wing broke and also you have to add the ‘red bar’ separately.

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the thin black line separating the white from NMF also broke, but didn’t come out too bad

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The yellow tips will need correcting, I used the wrong colour and need to be slightly more orange

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All of the decals were sealed using K-Colors XW100 Super Gloss

 

 

Next up I’ll be fixing bits that have fallen off and then gently weathering her.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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I’ve used UMP clay washes to accentuate the panel lines and rivets, Dark Dirt was used on the airframe…

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the excess was cleaned off with some kitchen towel

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For the anti-glare panels I used UMP Concrete wash

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Some very slight chipping was done on the anti-glare panels on the engine nacelles

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Exhaust stains were added using Tamiya X-19 smoke

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The exhaust were first painted with UMP/Stynylrez primer black primer and then dry-brushed with Tamiya XF-68 NATO brown

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…and then dry-brushed with vallejo 70.814 burnt red

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The propellors had the tips painted yellow and the centres Tamiya aluminium

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the centre was ‘chromed’ using a Molotow liquid chrome pen

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…and ‘chipping’ was added with a sponge and some Tamiya aluminium

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I’ve managed to stuff-up the decals on the horizontal stabilisers, I thought that I had ‘protected’ the decals with some ‘clear’ but I obviously hadn’t, so when I removed the masking tape after I sprayed the yellow tips…

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Unfortunately Hannants have the Caracal decals on back-order so it’ll be a while before I can replace these damaged ones.

 

While I’m waiting for the replacement decals I’ll be adding all the final bits’n’pices as well as some of the bits that have been knocked off and then take the final reveal photos.

 

until next time

as always, any suggestions or comments will be gratefully received.

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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