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Antipodean P-51


Plasto

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B1DEA94C-0A72-4335-A236-683C9B8CD067_zps

 

Hobbyboss plastic top Tamiya bottom.

The Hobbyboss kit is aimed at newcomers to the hobby in a similar vein to the 1/72 easy kits they produce. 

It looks generally accurate if a little simplified compared to the Tamiya which is the Yardstick in 1/48.

 

I'm personally not overly concerned if the wing chord is out 2mm or or the wheel well is not prototypical. That might send other folk crazy I understand that.

 

So building the HB kit hopefully should be straightforward and fun. 

HTH

Plasto

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The kit has a few issues but once done looks fine. 

 

051-2.jpg

 

Biggest issues are the canopy, the undercarriage and the wing angle, otherwise is goes together easily. I built this one quite a while back and someone made an offer to buy it from me that I couldn't resist....

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Yes the Sharks teeth have an allure.

plus it livens up what are the end of the day is another NMF Mustang with OD Antiglare panel. 

 

I note the warbird has an uncuffed prop but I'm not sure what the 'real thing' had at Iwakuni although these RAAF F-51's have uncuffed props.

 

3404B56F-EA45-47A5-A2F8-BA7C21BF94ED_zps

 

 

Cheers

Plasto

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Thanks for the links I have had a look at them previously.

 

I agree on the props.  Looks like  Aeroproducts  and uncuffed HS. No problem I have a spare Aeroproducts Prop floating round  in my 1/48 bits box.

 

Perhaps they were K's not D's...

 

 

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There were two types of Hamilton Standard props used on the P51D ( there's a thread on here somewhere ), the uncuffed ones had more squared off tips, and were often seen on Korean War F51s.

HTH

 

John

Edited by Biggles87
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  • 2 weeks later...

With the 22nd well and truely underway.. I made a bit of a start on the HB kit...

 

HB give you some ok detail for the cockpit not heaps but this is an 'Easy kit'.

 

I have added to this with the aim of making the cockpit busy. If you are a stickler for accuracy or a Mustang 'expert' look away now.

 

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Some aluminium tape for belts, Plastic stock for the seat braces a bit of solder and tape for the feeder cable and a bit of scrap plastic for the side console.

 

C92ED8EC-12C5-4C7E-B122-C8B47F23D6D0_zps

 

A bit of ribbing and a few greeblies on the side walls along with more solder cable...

 

And a quick Test fit with the kit IP confirms it now looks a lot busier than the stock cockpit..

 

9ABD7386-9535-461F-8AAE-78077225ECAD_zps

 

I'll paint it up a bit later and see how it looks..

 

Cheers

Plasto...

 

 

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So a bit of painting had been taking place.

 

 

 

 

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E19C7046-1C0C-4512-AA0A-94A45E3F716E_zps

 

 

It had a black base first then a thin coat of interior green then some detail painting follows by a wash then some water colour pencils. I also added a few placards using some Mike grant decals.

 

 

 

30D34B8B-18B4-4F44-B146-FBB59995F0A3_zps

 

I punched out the kit IP decal dials and added these individually this worked well and the IP looks good. 

Possibly not the best P51D cockpit.  The world also not the worst and most of it is stock bits. 

 

I have now joined the fuselage halves and assembled the wing. 

 

Its been easy assembly so far..

 

cheers 

Plasto 

Edited by Plasto
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So,

 

seams on fuselage tided up and wing assembled and fitted. Just setting off now. Prop Spinner assembled and the seam tidied up.Tailplanes are just push fit ATM.

 

623D5AE6-C3E6-4F65-A836-09B1792DAA1F_zps

 

I also cut the canopy. I have a spare rear section from a Hasegawa kit that I will use. I also assembled up some Drop tanks using some Tamiya spares as thy add a bit better than the HB parts.

 

Cheers

Plasto...

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So following Les's advice I have kept going.

 

Mainly with paint.. it's now a nice silver with some contrasting panels and I painted the sharks Mouth I cut a stencil for this from frisket and followed the instructions Mal Mayfield gives with his mask sets.. Thanks Mal!

 

Paint is decanted Tamiya Aluminium from one of their spray cans this is an acrylic lacquer and dries as tough as old boots.

you end up handling the model a bit with masking for the contrast panels. These are done in Mr Colour super Metallics which are lacquer based paints. They are absolutely great to work with and IMHO a bit better than Alclad. They dry in about a minute so you can really crack on with the build and paint

 

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The Shark Mouth is done in good old mr colour fast drying and durable for the masking work..

 

There you go. Gloss coat next and then Decal Time...

 

Cheers

Plasto

Edited by Plasto
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So gloss coat on last night..

Tamiya X-22 thinned with self levelling lacquer thinners. This was quite milky over the silver paint but has dried hard glossy and clear. Nothing image worthy but for some visual stimulation here is my build of Airfix's 51D

 

CEC54EDC-0AA6-48AE-A701-EB7B934BD1E3_zps

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