Ravens Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Thank you guys, I much appreciate the input. The Tamiya instructions called for XF-53 Neutral Grey but I have no idea if they were going on historical information or simply looking at photos, which can sometimes be a bit of a minefield. Thanks, Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smyfe Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Hi Ross, Tamiya now do a Sasebo grey, which is XF-77 and a Kure grey, which is XF-75. Keep up the great work. Mick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfqweofekwpeweiop4 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 I wouldn't worry about it for the moment, like I said, it looks close to one of the Greys, so I think Neutral Grey must have been the closest in the Tamiya range before they added newer colours. Perhaps for the next build worry about the right Grey colour. I've got a booklet that tells you the correct Greys for a lot of the IJN ships, so if you decide to build any more, please feel free to ask. thanksMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 A tiny update: the Games Workshop Imperial Primer has failed the masking tape test and some small flakes of paint have been pulled up randomly around the ship. Luckily there isn't too much damage and I should be able to brush over the affected areas without too much disruption to the overall finish. Back to Halfords primer for the next build I reckon! Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 +1 for Halfords primer. Still the best for my money. As long as you shake it to death and warm it up before applying! I've never tried decanting it, still works for me down to 1/700 out of the can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 I've applied a thin wash to some recessed areas and begun painting the various details on the deck; some small parts have been added. Still a lot of neatening up to do, plus the paint that came off with the masking tape needs replacing. Getting there, slowly but surely. It might be time to start thinking about what can PE rails and inclined ladder can be added to the back of the bridge tower before the rest of the superstructure makes that an even trickier job. Ross. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 I've added some etch to the rear of the bridge tower, added some of the small parts and made further corrections to the paintwork . The searchlights I painted using the technique for gemstones that fantasy miniature painters might be familiar with, except I used different shades of metal colours. I was initially alarmed that the hull had gone banana-shaped, but upon checking it appears to be the surface of the laptop which is curved - whew! Next I'm going to add the remainder of the parts and some more railings, and also attempt a bit of super-fiddly scratch building; I'll let you know whether I succeed or end up scraping it off the tweezers. Regards, Ross. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfqweofekwpeweiop4 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Coming on nicely! Here's one someone else did that's a bit good, maybe it will help and inspire a little. http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/cl/ijn/Yahagi-700-ak2/index.htm Also Yahagi's sister ship Noshiro, built from the Yahagi kit by IJN Dan Kaplan. http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/cl/ijn/noshiro-700-dk/dk-index.html Don't be put off by these masterpieces, use them for ideas on your build. thanks Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Thanks Mike, those are both splendid models, especially that Yahagi. Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 The part that I'm considering replacing is the tip of the antennae at the very top of the bridge. It is supposed to be two intersecting rings, but the plastic doesn't show that all too well so I've had a go at making one; I'm not yet sure if I'll use it though. I started by winding florist wire round a spare gun barrel, and then cut off loops as required. Finally I super-glued them together. It's kind of hard to see, but the result is a touch uneven, and possibly a teensy bit over-scale. I might give it another try, but it's tricky. Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfqweofekwpeweiop4 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 You wanna try the etch version, also very fiddly! thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 You wanna try the etch version, also very fiddly! thanks Mike I kind of wish I'd gone the whole hog and forked out for a detail set, but this has been a pleasant build and has encouraged me to try some basic scratch-building, so it's a good exercise and the money saved can be put towards a 1/350 kit some time in the future. Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 I had another go at making the replacement antennae part. It's not perfect, but it gives a somewhat clearer impression of the object that it's supposed to represent than the original plastic does so I went ahead and fitted it. Next I added more rails to the forward superstructure and also a pair of paravanes to the same location - which were absent from the kit; I had two spare from another 1/700 model. Some Yahagi models I've seen have brightly coloured lifebelts dotted around the ship; I decided to include these as they serve as points of visual interest. They were made from florist wire wrapped around a needle and then cut into rings. The doughnut shape meant I could use a needle to slide them onto a bead of glue with no chance of tweezer ping. Finally for this stage I made some port and starboard navigation lights and glued them to the sides of the bridge. I've also been working on the float planes. There was no sign of any propellers included in the kit so I made some basic ones and glued them on. There appears to have been an issue with the Revell Aqua Colour matt varnish I used to cover the gloss where the decals were applied - the finish has gone a bit weird. Either the conditions were not suitable for doing this, or perhaps there has been a reaction to the Tamiya acrylic that I base-coated them with? I might try giving the paint a rub with a microfiber cloth, but they don't look too bad to the naked eye so it's not necessarily a disaster; if it is then I've got spare planes ready. Here they are alongside one of the tiny lifebelts. Thanks for looking in. Ross. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetwin Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Wow those Jakes are awesome, fantastic work 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Wow those Jakes are awesome, fantastic work Thanks. I was a bit surprised that they didn't come with any propellers included, especially since a lot of the other parts are of a similar level of detail. Regards, Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Some cracking work going on here . . . Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 I've been working on the lifeboats and motorboats; the oars and rudders came from a WEM etch set. A few more finishing touches and they'll be ready for the model. Some rails, ladders and lifebelts have been added to the mid-section superstructure, plus some cradles to support the motor launches. These also came from a WEM set apart from one of the cradles, which was partially scratch-built due to cursed tweezer-ping. I'll have to do something about all the dust and particles that have made the deck their home; also at least one of the rails looks off-angle. I've also gone over the raised areas with a dry-brush in order to better accentuate the shape and detail; a ladder has been added to the mast. Now I need to select a size of gauge of rigging - I'm thinking thinner might be better for 1/700, get it ordered and try to get a handle on what parts to rig. I'll probably practice using it on an older build before attempting to rig the Yahagi. While I'm waiting for that to happen I'll continue to work on the overall finish and add more railings, maybe the planes and motorboats as well. Thank's for looking in. Regards, Ross. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 That kit is really coming to life. One of the aspects of ship building that I really like! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul E Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 cursed tweezer-ping. I too suffer from this curse, and then spend many hours on my hands and knees praying for a miracle and the delivery of the missing part. I love the detail you have achieved, particularly on the boats. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 I too suffer from this curse, and then spend many hours on my hands and knees praying for a miracle and the delivery of the missing part. I love the detail you have achieved, particularly on the boats. Cheers Paul. I've sound myself straining my tea through a sieve to see if it landed in the cup, and even checking in the mirror just in case the elusive piece is superglued to my hair; it can be quite maddening. Ross. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 I finished off the boats and attached the motor launches to their cradles; the two lifeboats will be attached once the deck rails and davits are in place. One of the planes is now secured to the launch crane and the other one will go on as soon as I've fashioned a crude trolley to rest it on. Some railings were added to the rear mast. I've ordered some .003mm rigging thread; I'll try and neaten things up as best I can while I wait for that to arrive. Thanks for looking in. Ross. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 The Uschi thread arrived and I've had a go at some rigging. I'm very impressed with the product, it's gossamer thin, quite elastic and won't break too easily. Big thanks to Chewitt for the heads up on this stuff - no more messing around with stretched sprue for me! I used .003 mm thread and fast-cure super-glue to attach it. Also in place is a trolley on the flight deck for the second float plane that I made from a spare crane piece, and some basic pulleys on the foremast made from clipping the sharp ends of cocktail sticks. Now I can proceed with the rest of the rigging. Regards, Ross. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Can anyone recommend a type of superglue for this sort of rigging work? I'm currently using Vitalbond CA Thin (10 seconds cure time) but after initially being okay for some reason it just won't work any more when there's tension on the line, despite my holding it for a full minute. Either I'm doing something wrong, a reaction is taking place between the glue and the surface, or the glue is inferior. Any suggestions are most welcome. Regards, Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangor Lad Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Where did you get the thread you've used for the rigging? Great build by the way Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Where did you get the thread you've used for the rigging? Great build by the way Dave Thanks Dave. I got the Uschi thread from AVR Model, and I believe it can also be purchased direct from the manufacturer. The .003mm stuff I'm using is practically invisible until you're really close to it, so the .005mm will probably be fine for most scales and subjects. Cheers, Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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