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  1. Placeholder. This will be my kit for the upcoming GB. A reasonably priced and detailed kit with added zimmerit. I can only do a 505 as there is a big slice taken out of the zim for the knight decal, but I like the camo schemes available. My Jagdtiger had to be pushed to one side as on opening the box I realised I have half finished it. I don't remember doing this and why I stopped!😳 (Rule 3 may come into play if I have time to get it finished.) I may upgrade the tracks as the kit ones are link and length. I will have a good look at them first before spending money.
  2. LARC-V Early (DW35034) 1:35 Das Werk via Albion Precision Alloys Although it looks very much like the German amphibious truck from WWII, the LARC-V was a product of American designers in the early 60s, its name deriving from Lighter Amphibious Resupply Cargo, while the V represents the 5-ton cargo capacity that it can carry. It’s a four-wheel drive vehicle that is also a boat, and can travel at around 30mph on land, and just under 10mph on water, or around 8.5 knots if we’re speaking in maritime verbiage. It was diesel-powered, running a 12.9L Cummins diesel that produced 300hp. It saw extensive service in the early days of the Vietnam War, carrying men and equipment to beach landings in huge quantities, and running 24-hour operations to bring munitions directly to the US aircraft that were stationed in-country on nearby air bases. They were also used by other nations, such as Germany, The Philippines, and Argentina, who used them in the invasion of the Falklands Islands in the early 1980s. They were also operated by the Australians, who used a pair for flood mitigation and civilian rescues in one particularly bad flood in Queensland, with great success. A mid-life service extension programme was instigated in the new millennium, substantially changing the vehicle under the bodyshell, replacing the engine with a more modern and powerful John Deere turbo-diesel that runs at a constant speed, the power output to the wheels or prop being varied by the new hydraulic drive-train, which has given it more power both on land and sea. Over 40 of the upgraded LARCs have been authorised for use by various maritime units, including construction units on land and sea, as well as the carrying of cargo to and from larger ships in preparation for operations. The Kit This is a reboxing with new parts, based upon a 2021 issue from Gecko Models, and you may have already noticed their logo in the bottom right corner of the box lid. Das Werk are involved in many collaborations, of which this is one, and it arrives in a nicely appointed top-opening box with a handsome painting of the type emerging from the ocean, transitioning from sea spray to sand with the crew of two in hi-viz jackets, one staring directly at the artist’s camera while he steadies himself by holding a grab-handle on the side of the vehicle’s windscreen. Inside the box are many bags, some of which are Ziploc-style, which may indicate the new sprues, which would mean that the new cab with fabric roof panels, some weapons components, the clear parts, Photo-Etch (PE), braided cord, decals, the smaller tyres, and four small 3D printed parts are new, which seems sensible to this reviewer, at least. There are sixteen sprues and a hull part in grey styrene, a clear sprue, four small tyres in hard plastic, four 3D printed resin parts on a print base, a PE fret, length of braided cord, decal sheet, and a modestly sized instruction booklet that is printed in colour on glossy paper, with decal option profiles on the rear pages, and the steps in a 3D isometric style that gives a better idea of the shape and size of the parts when compared with line drawings. Construction begins with the four axles, which are made from a two-part cylindrical shape with a tapered axle end to give the wheels room to rotate, adding a toroidal lip that is studded with bolt heads to the axle end, and fitting a circular bracket onto the ends of the front wheel axles that will be linked by a five-part steering arm when inserted under the hull. The other method of propulsion is the screw that has either three or four blades, a long drive-shaft, a three-bladed stator, and a shroud that protects the blades from damage in shallow water. The front axles are pushed into position over the steering linkage, while the rear wheels are inserted into their sockets without additional parts, fitting a baffle at the rear of the recess that will have the screw installed later. At the front, a bar is fixed under the bow with a towing eye added, deflecting debris and other hazards away from the front wheels, then inserting the water-propulsion system in its trough near the stern, adding a deep rudder behind it. The driver’s compartment floor is next, with a central driver’s position identified by adding three foot pedals, and two boxes that will be under the fore deck that is mated next, adding a pair of headlamps in round-topped fairings that have separate rear parts and a choice of wire-meshed, or clear lenses, plus a small 3D printed indicator on the outer side. ‘Wing’ mirrors are mounted on each side of where the windscreen will be, two small davits on the edges of the coaming, and a short aerial base that is inserted into a socket on the deck. The new covered cabin for the crew is moulded as a single part with spaces for five windows, plus an insert between the two side panes, and wound rope grab-handles on the rear frame, flipping the assembly over to add a tube under the front three windows, which looks like a heater tube to clear the screens in bad weather, which also mounts a pair of lamps to illuminate the controls, which are coming up in a second. A sloped dashboard has the raised instrument panel fitted to the top, with an additional instrument box on the left, a pair of PE brackets on the front edge, plus a lever inserted next to a small instrument cluster that is moulded into the base. The steering column with wheel added to the top, and a stalk at its mounting point is attached to the centre of the instrument panel, then this assembly is put to one side for a while. The rear bulkhead of the cab/wheelhouse has three seat mounts inserted into slots low down, with the two seat cushions glued to the mounts and bulkhead as appropriate. This is put to the side too, while the bulkhead at the rear of the load area is made. It is detailed with two PE brackets, one either side of a pair of L-shaped brackets moulded into the bulkhead, adding a pair of triangular supports to the edges, a handle to a circular depression, and a long, curved rail with chain moulded into the centre. The load floor is made from two sections, each part lined with tie-downs that have separate cups fitted under the deck, the longer section mated to the cabin bulkhead along with two triangular supports, while the shorter section joins to the rear bulkhead for later insertion into the model. Meanwhile, a raised fairing over the fore deck is detailed with handrails, a hatch with prominent hinges and separate handle, removing four raised lines on the sloped section, and installing another part on a sloped base at the front. More details are removed from the sides of the fairing, and a small horn/klaxon is fixed on the rear left. The hull is a long part, surprisingly so after drawing comparisons with the German amphibious truck earlier, but there would need to be a substantial cut-and-shut to make it as long as the LARC. There is a small notch in the side of the bow, which has a triangular insert added from inside before the forward deck and raised fairings are joined in turn, and the join hidden by a two-part bumper strip around the perimeter of the bow. The instrument assembly is brought out again, and has the front section of the cab glued to the front, adding a pair of capped pipes low on the part beforehand. The panel is then shown painted, and ten instrument dial decals and data placards are applied to the front, with a further two on the top of the box to the right of the main panel. The two faceted side panels that will complete the assembly have four PE placards with decals applied on the port section, while the starboard section has just two, both of which are then glued to the front section creating the faceted front of the vehicle’s control centre that is lowered into position in the cab behind the fore deck. The engine compartment behind the load area has two exhausts made up by adding two flapper caps on the upturned tips, with PE vanes added to the caps, then dropped into position in two cradles, fixing them in position with PE straps either side of the central raised section, which is separated by adding a strip longitudinally, joined by a gaggle of small parts that fit in and around this section, and a pole in the centre at the rear. The engine bay doors are detailed with four raised parts each, then are fitted over the openings, the hinges locating on the outer edges. A large louvred grille fills a rectangular hole in the sloping rear, fitting a curved PE mesh panel over the exhausts to prevent crew and equipment from being burnt on the hot exhausts. These should be relatively easy to bend if you anneal them in a flame and let them cool naturally, rolling them round a cylinder of the appropriate size, which is usually a little narrower than you think you’ll need, as the brass will bounce-back a little after rolling. At the rear of the hull is a styrene radiator panel that has a circular PE insert to the front and a square mesh on the rear that has its corners clipped. It is glued behind the louvred section of the rear bulkhead that is glued into the hull, and is backed by a curved trunk that will prevent viewers from seeing the empty space inside. Another small insert is fitted to cut-outs in the hull near the rear on both sides, then a pair of towing eyes with separate pins are mounted on triangular fillets that require the drilling out of two holes in the keel. Two optional corner bumpers are fixed to the hull at the lower edges or their locating recesses are filled, and a choice of two styles of rear lights are supplied for various decal options. Finally, the two load area assemblies are fixed to the lower portion of the hull, and the engine compartment roof is mounted to the rear, with more bumper strips hiding the join again. The windscreen and cab roof are also installed at the front, adding a clear part to the rear of the roof, depicting the small windows and the rolled-up canvas cover that keeps the weather and spray out. Additional windscreen wipers that are styrene and PE combinations are applied to the diagonal front windows, dotting a few small parts around the wheel-house/cab. For one decal option, a pair of 3D printed lanterns are supplied, which must be mounted on scratch-built bases that are supported from below by a length of 0.4mm wire, as shown in the small 3D picture nearby. A pair of canvas-covered railings are fixed to the sides of the load area, with bumper strips hiding the join between the deck and hull, adding PE tensioners and other small parts nearby, but as-yet the LARC hasn’t got any wheels. There are four of them, one for each corner, and they have large balloon tyres on small hubs that are each made from two parts. The outer part has the hub, one sidewall and contact surface moulded to it, while the inner hub and sidewall are added from a separate part. If you were wondering what the smaller tyres are for, they’re hung over the edge of the hull on rope to protect the vehicle during docking, using the string supplied, and drilling two holes in each one, then following the suggested locations on the diagrams. Additionally, four rope bumpers are found on the T-shaped sprues, and these can be mounted on the corners at the stern with cord, and/or on the bow if you wish. Markings There are five decal options on the sheet, which you can expand using the numeric decals on the number plates that are also supplied. From the box you can build one of the following: Bundeswehr, AmphTrsp/UBtl 2, 1970s, Emden, Germany ‘Unsere Marine’ Exhibition, early 1970s, Freiburg, Germany Corpo de Fuzileiros, Portugese Marine Corps., 200s, Portugal US Navy, Operation Hastings, 1966, Cua Viet, Vietnam US Army, 165th Trans Co. (Light Amphibian), Thon My Thuy, Vietnam, 1968 It isn’t documented who printed the decals, but they have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion I’ve long had an interest in the Vietnam War, but never came across this particular type, unless there was one in the background of the movie Apocalypse Now as Robert Duvall is uttering those immortal lines? Detail is excellent, and with a suitable load on the deck, it’s a tempting prospect, especially if you’re not terrified of modelling scale water and can replicate the waves rolling into a beach where Charlie don’t surf. Highly recommended. Available in the UK in all good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Hello My next U-Boot in 1:72 scale from Das Werk. Enjoy.
  4. mtl. Zgkrwg 8t, Sd.Kfz.7 Half Track (DW35037) 1:35 Das Werk via Albion Alloys Standing for mittlerer Zugkraftwagen 8t, Sonderkraftfahrzeug 7, that mouthful was shortened for convenience, time and ink saving, all of which meant Medium Towing Motor Vehicle 8t, Special Purpose Vehicle 7. It’s a long title, even in English, and the type was developed starting in 1934 by Krauss-Maffei, a company that had experience in making large vehicles on wheels and rails, plus the combustion engines to power them. It was accepted into service just prior to the outbreak of WWII, and was intended to be the prime-mover or tractor for the powerful 88mm flak 36, or the larger 15 cm sFH(schwere Feldhaubitze) 18 howitzer, but it was also capable of pulling just about anything with a towing hitch up to its maximum rated towing weight, and probably a little beyond in emergencies. The vehicle weighed in at around 11.5 tonnes, and was capable of pulling loads of up to 8 tonnes, even over rough ground, thanks to the half-track design, using the front wheels for steering adjustments. Asymmetric power delivery to the tracks was also instigated when the driver put in a hard turn, in order to ease the slew of the tracks, reduce ground disruption, and improve turning authority under all conditions. It carried seating for a full crew for any of the weapons it was tasked with towing, plus stowage for their personal gear and other equipment, with a canvas tilt that would be erected overhead during inclement weather to keep most of the precipitation off the passengers. They were in service with German forces throughout WWII, although production of the improved type was ended in 1944 after a run of over 12,000 units in one form or another. The vehicle was a success, and it was adapted to several other functions as a result, including mobile anti-aircraft defence, with up to a quad 20mm flak cannon mounted on the load bed instead of the seating, amongst others. The Italians made a small number of license-built copies, and even the British made an attempt to create a new prime-mover based upon the Sd.Kfz.7 to tow their heavy artillery, re-engineering captured units from Tunisia with twin motors that fed power into a combined prop-shaft, but the end of the war put paid to those experiments. The Kit This is a new kit from Das Werk, and it is a reboxing of the Dragon kit from around 2009, which is no bad thing, as it’s a well-detailed kit of the type, and still holds up incredibly well against time and the competition, and although there is some discussion of the shape, particularly in the forward body and engine cowling, neither offering is perfect, so it’s a roll of the dice, and a case of which you prefer. The kit arrives in a well-appointed top-opening box, and inside are eight sprues* in grey styrene plus two large chassis parts in the same colour, a small sprue of clear parts, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a length of braided metal cable, two bags of track links, but additional three extras, a trio of black flexible tyres, and a nicely printed instruction booklet on glossy paper in full colour. Detail is excellent, as it comes from Dragon’s golden era, and includes a full set of crew figures to seat in the passenger compartment, and it is a full interior model that includes the full chassis and engine on the sprues. * My review sample contained two of the engine sprue D, but only one is noted in the instructions. Construction begins with the chassis, building upon the large ladder-chassis moulding, onto which the leaf-spring suspension, drive axle housings and other suspension parts are fitted before a sub-frame that holds the exhaust system is attached underneath and between the tracks. The engine is made from a substantial catalogue of parts, building up the block, sump, ancillaries and exhaust manifold, with the fan and timing belts fitted to the front of the block, assisted by a pair of scrap diagrams showing the parts in place. A power-transfer box is made up and inserted between the chassis rails next to the drive axle with a large tank over the top, adding the drive sprockets to the large circular housings on the sides of the chassis, and making up the drive wheel pairs, plus the drum for the winch under the cab with a drive-shaft linking it to the transfer box, and routing the tow cable round the spool and through rollers in the heavily detailed front cross-member and terminating in a tow hook. The chassis is finished off by adding the interleaved road wheels, a large tank in the centre and the front wheels, which have a central hub, flexible outer tyre, and a styrene rear section each, making an additional wheel for the spare. The bodywork is started by adding the seats and sub-division onto the large floor moulding that also incorporates the mudguards for the tracks, adding a section of floor at the front for the driving crew. The mudguards should be narrowed first by cutting or sanding away the original mouldings, and replacing them with new parts on one of the sprues to achieve the correct shape. More seats are added, including a set with the outer skin that has pioneer tools applied, and the deck over the stowage area are built, adding a set of railings and duck-board base around the rear, then the engine firewall bulkhead is detailed with the dashboard plus central instrument binnacle that has a number of decals to detail the dials, installed on the front of the body shell along with the steering column and the folding windscreen panel, which has separate wiper blades added beforehand. The body’s sidewalls are prepared by adding the doors to the rear stowage area and side lights at the front, then they are applied along with the rear doors, then the body is detailed underneath with a stowage rack that includes the spare tyre location, stiffening braces, and a pair of panels that fix to the rear of the fenders to hold the number plate, lights and Notek convoy light. The front fenders are adapted by cutting a short section of the rear lip away, then adding the radiator grille, ducting, crew steps with PE grating, headlights, convoy light in one of two positions, and width-marker ‘lollipops’. This and the engine are lowered into position at the front of the chassis, adding a short rod between the right fender and the chassis rail for authenticity. The rear body is then lowered over the chassis, adding a few small parts and braces between the radiator and bulkhead, adding the cowling and louvred sides to the engine bay, with scrap diagrams showing the finished bay and how it should look, pointing out the important aspects in blue. At the same time, the tracks are made up from 54 links with separate track-pads per side, all of which are already removed from the sprues, and have just the mould-lines and the occasional wisp of flash to scrape away before you can build them up. They have the capability of remaining workable once glued together, as the installation of the track-pads on their two pins locks the pivot points of the links together, so if you are careful with the glue, perhaps using a more viscous type in preference to liquid glues to obtain a fully workable track. The links are small, as are the pads, so careful positioning with tweezers is probably a wise decision, along with something such as a track jig or flattened out Blutak to hold the links still whilst locking them together. The completed runs will have excellent detail, and just require careful painting to enhance their realism further. Figures The single sprue contains parts for six figures, each of which have their coat tails moulded into the upper body to provide realistic drape and undercut in the area, and are otherwise broken down as usual, with separate heads, arms and legs, each leg having the forward section of the coat tails added to pegs as well as being individual legs for better detail. The heads have flat tops to accommodate their forage caps, so if you have some steel helmets to replace them, you can go right ahead to add some individualism to your model. One character is moulded with his hands at the quarter-to-three position to mate with the steering wheel, while another, possibly the co-driver is looking over his shoulder whilst leaning on the sill. The other four gentlemen are sitting minding their own business, some looking a little more bored with proceedings than the others. Markings There are four options on the decal sheet, with two per side of the instructions, giving four profiles for each one. From the box you can build one of the following: Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A welcome and well-detailed reboxing of the Dragon kit, with some new and interesting decal options that are split between camouflage and single/dual colour options to appeal to a wide audience. Highly recommended. Available in the UK in all good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  5. 155mm Howitzer Carriage Model 1918 – Schneider (DW35023) 1:35 Das Werk When America joined the fighting in WWI during 1917, it used French-made Schneider artillery pieces to speed their entry into meaningful combat rather than develop new equipment of their own, as they weren’t confident about the home-grown artillery pieces they’d been using up until that point. They bought guns and the rights to manufacture their own based upon the blueprints provided by Schneider, which cost them a substantial sum but worked to their advantage, as after the Armistice the weapon remained in service through a the early days of WWII, and longer with other operators. The 1918 variant was changed from the original to use a flat splinter shield and pneumatic tyres to improve the carriage’s suspension over the previous unforgiving steel rims. The guns were used through the 1920s as stand-ins for a proposed 105mm medium howitzer, the project for which stalled due to apathy and a lack of funding during the interval between wars. The M1 sub-variant used air-brakes to allow it to be towed at higher road speeds without overtaking its tractor during hard braking. They saw service at the beginning of America’s part of WWII until they were superseded by the new 155 mm howitzer M1 that was substantially different from its predecessor. The 1918M1 lingered on the battlefield during the early part of the war until the production problems and shortages plaguing the replacement M1 were resolved, after which it fell out of use in US service. Great Britain used 100 of the type during the beginning of WWII, although they too were retired before too long. The longest serving guns were in use until the 1980s with Finnish forces, who have a habit of making good use of allegedly old hardware. The Kit This is an additive re-tool of Das Werk’s earlier French 155mm C17S howitzer that was released in 2021, commonly known as last year at time of writing. The older sprues have the code 35022, while the three new ones have the code for this boxing. The kit arrives in a small top-opening box with an attractive painting of the subject matter on the lid, and inside are seven sprues in grey styrene, plus two vaguely Y-shaped parts in the same colour. A small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) is found in a small Ziploc bag, a small decal sheet and the A5 portrait instruction booklet with glossy pages with coffee stains and general wear-and-tear printed-on to give it some visual interest. Detail is excellent throughout, with the tyres especially crisp and detailed, although the brand “Firestoner” might not be all that familiar… dude. It’s probably a Copyright or Trademark issue, but a careful slice and a little sanding will render it more accurate. Construction begins with the tyres, which are made up from a central hoop to which two tread hoops and two more sidewall parts are added to replicate the detailed tread of the real thing, and don’t forget to remove the R from the branding on the side before you get too far. The completed tyre is finished by adding a hub at the front, and a circular rear to the hub from the other side, and don’t forget you need two. Some ammo crates are included in the box, each one containing two rounds, and you can leave the lids of the crates off, although you might want to fill the ejector-pin marks before you build them if that’s the case. The gun barrel is made from two halves split vertically, to which a six-part breech-block is fitted to the rear later, then it is glued to a PE slide that has the edges folded up and is joined by a styrene part. The rear of the breech is made from a further three parts, and two more parts of the recoil mechanism are fitted under the barrel, with the breech block able to be fixed in open or close position, locked in place by a single pin. The elevation arc is a curved assembly with toothed edges that is built-up like a ladder with three cross-members linking the two sides together, which is attached to the underside of the cradle, which has a pair of recoil tubes added, plus a number of supports and guide rods, and a scrap diagram shows that some small parts would be opened up to service the weapon in case you are planning a diorama. The completed barrel and sled are joined to the cradle, and a PE recuperator instruction panel is folded up and glued in place on the side, with a scrap diagram showing how it should look when in place. The elevation axle has a gear on each end, and this is pressed against the teeth in the arc when it is trapped between the two sides of the trail, with the axle surround forward of a cross-member. The spade mount forms an H-shape and joins to the spade with two additional small parts, to be trapped under the trail by the frame’s floor, which also has another cross-brace inserted into the front after drilling two 0.7mm holes where indicated. The horizontal part of the spade glues to the underside of the trail, then the top section of the frame closes in another cross-brace, with two short curved parts toward the front of the frame, with the instructions advising you to test-fit them before resorting to glue. At the rear two additional parts form the basic towing hitch for the gun. The elevation gear is built from six styrene parts and one PE lever, plus a pair of long levers, and another on the opposite side with PE adjustment wheel, both assemblies having a scrap diagram to assist you with assembly. You can choose to depict your model in travel mode or ready for action by using different aft pivots for the cradle, adding a cover to the recess in the top of the trail, and four spade rotation parts, which if glued in place will stop the spade from rotating. An oval PE manufacturer’s plate is glued just forward of the spade, then the cleaning and operating tools are dotted around the sides of the trail with the T-shaped hand-spike laid flat at the rear. A three-part channel clips over the cover on top of the trail, and the aiming mechanism is finished by adding a combination of styrene and PE parts, the two PE adjustment wheels having styrene handles. An air receiver is made up from two halves and fixed to the front of the gun under the shield, which has a seven-part frame, a separate vision port cover and two individual manual brake levers on the front surface, then the axle halves are added on each side, followed by fitting the shield and the brake mechanisms so that the wheels can be slipped over the ends of the axle. Lastly, the simple towing hitch is cut off and a more detailed hitch is glued over its location. Markings The overall colour of the gun is olive drab, but three different shield colours can add a little variation to your model, one of which is plain olive drab, the other two are camouflaged. From the box you can build one of the following: The decals are printed anonymously and are suitable for this or the earlier boxing, with most of the decals plain white. The one multi-colour decal is in good register, and all decals have good colour density and sharpness. Conclusion It’s a well-detailed kit of a chunky little 155mm howitzer that saw some action in early WWII after missing most of the action in WWI. Highly recommended. Available in the UK in all good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Hi all! Here is a little taster of my next project. This won't include any modelling as I haven't started building yet but will include what I've bought to date and some ideas as to what the finished build may look like. I was bought Tamiya's 18t Sd.Kfz.9 for my birthday back in April and since then I've been researching the vehicle in order to come up with an idea for modelling it. I've come up with a couple of options and the possibility of making another Sd.kFz.9 if it ends up looking like too much for one project. The first is to build the above models and maybe add a Panzer 1 or a Sturmpanzer 1 Bison to the trailer. I've been able to find plenty of images of various loads on the Sd. Ah.115 but very few of the Sd.Kfz.9 towing the trailer. The only images I've found are these below. Both of these images show an early F3 tractor, which is what's on offer with the Tamiya kit, ie the Maybach HL 108 engine and mid production running gear. I guess with a little artistic license the possibilities for this combination are great. Whilst mulling over different ideas I also managed to get my hands on the 'earth spade' accessory kit from Tamiya. This has thrown up some different challenges as depending on how you rig the cable to the frame of the spade some scratch building maybe required. The kit shows the frame is lifted one way which to me doesn't look right? The reference pictures I have show an additional frame and pulley at the very back of the flatbed that the towing cable is threaded through. The example on the left clearly shows the frame and pulley centered on the tailgate and the example on the right the frame is absent. Food for thought. This gives me the option to model the Sd.Kfz.9 with the earth spade deployed and the Sd.Ah.115 trailer, rear axel removed, ready to receive its load. Decisions, decisions. What do you guys think? I came across this useful rigging illustration whilst on the interweb. The last purchase is the excellent Royal Models detail set. This isn't as comprehensive as the Aber, or Voyager sets in so far as photo etch but includes all of the obvious missing details. I particularly like the folded tarp and the inclusion of a road wheel masking tool. A nice touch. Here is another image of the trailer being towed but I don't think its the 18t tractor? Maybe. So that is it for now. Next time I will post some progress. Any input on this topic would be appreciated and as always thanks for looking
  7. Dear Colleagues Here is the Das Werk Panther Ausf. A Early which I believe originates from the Takom kit. Das Werk also offer separately an excellent zimmerit set. I used some rather old and crumbly markings from Echelon to show the vehicle as one belonging to I/Pz Regt 4 in Italy. They were persuaded to settle only by Mr Mark Setter and Softer. The battalion seem to often have trays above their engine decks, so that had to be scratch built. I used a Gunze set of sandgelb paints And of course it has to go into the garage too! Hope you like it? Regards Andrew
  8. Hallo again The Faun L 900 truck. The kit started quite logic. But quite fast the first question came up. At point 1.4 Differential with double noticing A9 again on the next side. But the absolute clue is the suspension: All 3 numbers are mixed up. From 15 to 17. · Unloaded 17 · Neutral 15 · Heavy 16 It is not so easy to mix up all 3 numbers that way, that no repetition with a former number comes up. Now another issue is the exhaust system. Of about 80mm distance, there is no fixation at the frame. About 2,5m in reality. Happy modelling
  9. First, I wanted to share the strange and unexpected anatomical feature that I recently noticed. So, strange anatomical discovery: it turned out that I have two brains! One brain (auxiliary) is located in the head, the other (main) in a little lower (approximately in the middle of the body, lower the back). So, this brain has made a decision to make SMK-18. The brain that was located in my head resisted and demanded to do something useful or to complete the started and not finished models, but it was defeated by the brain that is located approximately in the center of gravity of the body. Obviously, this brain is much more perfect, specially adapted for making more major decisions. I think it’s worth relying on the decisions made by the central perfect brain in the future, and not paying attention to the mental noise that is generated by the rudimentary brain in the head. (This text was, of course, generated by the central brain) Vytautas
  10. I may run out of time to finish this by January but it has been sat on my shelf since the summer and I feel I need to get it done. I bought it on a day trip to Ely after the first lockdown had ended. (I drove there to check out a model shop and to get out of town before I went mad 😀.) My first Das Werk kit and so far, so good. Looking at the others that have been made on this group build, and a good look at the sprues, it should be pretty straightforward. I also got the DW/Atak Zim to help me along. And so much of the glue Redcoat suggested that I'll have enough to build a Hannants full of Panthers. I was building some Friul tracks for a Late G, sat on the shelf of doom, but I thought why waste them on that and just use them on this instead. Plus I'll still have the kit tracks to finish off the G at a later date (i.e probably never.) I spent last night doing a bit of research on a suitable tank to build/paint and a GrossDeutschland was first thought about but that needed Zim on the track guards as well going by a couple of photos I'd seen. The Normandy ones also looked good but then I found this one in a book I had which looks very interesting, with a dash of colour and a tough camo scheme (but they all look tough schemes in late 44 anyway.) Obligatory box and sprues shots. Tracks are already made but I think that is well out of the 25% rule.😀 Also some decals are on their way. Trying some from Echelon to see how they perform. (And some from Star just in case.) I'll try my hardest to get this finished and as this is my first time using this DW/Atak Zim I may be asking a few questions. Cheers all.👍 P.s. Ridiculous amount of glue. The only one left in the whole of my local B and Q. Everything else fully stocked.
  11. Since both my other two builds are at the paint stage I was missing the smell of glue. Since I bought this kit specially for this GB I think it's time to get it started. It is mostly the same plastic as my earlier Dragon kit, that I built as the howitzer armed StuH 10.5cm, this kit will be built as a 7.5cm armed StuG. I have a metal barrel with brass muzzle, it will be in a winter camouflage scheme using the winterketten tracks that I started for the StuH build. This is the kit box art: As I mentioned the plastic is of Dragon origin, their logo can be seen on the sprues along with their nice waffle pattern zimmerit. The only difference between the Dragon and Das Werk kits are decals, p/e and tracks. Das Werk kits use the link and length tracks instead of magic tracks. But I used these on my other build so as mentioned I will use some old Dragon winter tracks that I have here with the p/e and metal gun barrel. The Das Werk kit p/e has the rear idler inner rim in three segments but as with the link and length tracks, these are a feature of all new Dragon Panzer III and IV kits as well. I will make a start on assembling the hull torsion bar suspension and clean up of the wheels today, any comments or questions are most welcome.
  12. I'll be taking a crack at the Das Werk Stug III for this GB. Looks to be a reboxed Dragon kit , but could be wrong. Kit looks pretty tasty with some nice waffle zimmerit moulded on Box Artwork Schemes to choose from: Last tank scheme I did had a winter whitewash.... leaning towards having a go at something different. So think either the tri camo option or the one with the fine green lines. Going to have a bash at the interior too, as a lot seems to be included with the kit. Acquired some Vellejo mud effects for this one too, some thick and some splash stuff. Aaron
  13. Hallo Now thhis truck & trailer is finished. They existed in early war years, used to transport Panzer I and Panzer II. Small tanks and other vehicles, like Sd.Kfz.7 as maximum. The build was tricky, by an instruction full of flaws. Correction and help, so look at my Work in Progress: So, I do think, if you have this kit at home, you can build it. Happy modelling
  14. Here’s my attempt of building Das Werk’s 1:32 Ju Ef-126 "Elli"/Ef-127 "Walli", I opted to build the double Argus engined Ef-126. This is Das Werk’s first foray into aircraft, all mistakes are down to me, I can highly recommend the kit it’s a very reasonably priced, large scale, unusual subject that offers 3 types, EF-126 single Argus pulse-jet, EF-126 double Argus pulse-jet or EF-127 Walther 509C1 rocket powered versions. Also included in the kit are two different types of display “stands”, either a factory cradle or take-off/taxi trolly, either of which could be used in a diorama? I also purchased a couple of aftermarket items, Uschi van de Rosten woodgrain decals, specifically made for this kit, and a set of “generic” Luftwaffe HGW ‘fabric’ seat harness. Paints used were AK Extreme metals, Mr Hobby, MRP and Tamiya. …you can see the build log here… until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  15. This is both a “new” aircraft type and model manufacturer for me, I believe that this is Das Werk’s first aircraft kit, looking at the sprue’s it look a decent kit and hopefully it will be the first in a successful line for them. Knowing absolutely nothing about this aircraft I turned to wikipedia for some information, here’s what they have to say… Junkers EF 126 From Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia The Junkers EF 126 was an experimental fighter proposed by the German Miniaturjägerprogramm of 1944–1945, for a cheap and simple fighter powered by a pulsejet engine. No examples were built during the war, but the Soviet Union completed both unpowered and powered prototypes. The design of the Ju EF 126 was developed into the Junkers EF 127, a rocket-powered version. Miniaturjäger During 1944, the Miniaturjäger programme for the simplest, cheapest fighter possible was launched by the Reichsluftfahrtministerium (RLM), the German Ministry of Aviation. In order to minimise cost and complexity, it was to be powered by a pulse jet, as used by the V-1 flying bomb and its manned version, the Fieseler Fi 103R (Reichenberg). Designs were produced by Heinkel, with a pulse jet powered version of their Heinkel He 162, Blohm & Voss (the P213) and Junkers. Ef 126 Junker's design, the EF 126, was of similar layout to the V-1, with the single Argus 109-044, rated at 4.9 kilonewtons (1,100 lbf), mounted above the aft fuselage and fin. The fuselage was of metal construction while the wings were wooden. A retractable nosewheel undercarriage was to be fitted. As the pulse-jets power would reduce at altitude, the aircraft was intended for low-altitude use, and had a secondary ground attack role. Armament consisted of two 20 mm MG 151/20 cannon while up to 400 kg (880 lb) of bombs could be carried under the wings. So anyway Das Werk have produced this kit. The kit allows you to build 1 of 3 types, EF-126 single Argus pulse-jet, EF-126 double Argus pulse-jet or EF-127 Walther 509C1 rocket powered version. You can choose from 7 different supplied schemes however, as these were never in production, let alone service, you can make up your own, as I plan to(ish). Also included in the kit are two “bases” a factory cradle and a take off/taxi trolley, you can also opt to have the wings separate so if you want to build a “factory” diorama this kit would give you a really good base to start from. I plan to build the EF-126 double Argus version, in a “natural” state, NMF and wooden wings something like this. Uschi van der Rosen have some woodgrain decals specifically for this kit These and some HGW seat belts are the only after-market I plan on using. I like the idea of unpainted aircraft, as you can see from my avatar, some years ago I built a 1:48 Tamiya Mossie and painted her to look unpainted. The wood effect was made with the help from a PE “woodgrain” stencil, it’ll be interesting to see how the decals go. Next the I’ll make a start on the cockpit. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  16. Ahoy! This will be my second tank kit built as part of a GB. I will almost certainly be throwing out a few questions about weather at some point! Made a small start with this last night. This is my first non Tamiya tank, looking forward to seeing how the tracks turn out on this compared to the normal Tamiya rubber bands. Like the way Das Werk have designed them to make it easier to glue on the guide horns, sure I'll still manage to knock some of them off at some point. I found gluing the rear section of hull to one of the side walls helped with getting the bottom section of the chassis all nice and square. As I'd completely forgotten about this GB I did start a Jagdpanther a month or so ago, which is now at the weathering stage. Hopefully I'll get to grips a bit more with weather techniques when working on the Jagd. Earlier this year I picked up some of the AK rust pencils and the Mig Ammo dry earth track set which I tried out on a Sherman with mixed results. I'll also try and remember to not spray all the air vents at the back black on this Panther Still haven't settled on which scheme to paint. There's two Dünkelgelb with winter white wash that I'm leaning towards. Have some of Wilkos finest hairspray that I've used previous on a Tiger (although after spraying the white wash using Tamiya white I stupidly left it for a week before attacking it with a toothbrush which turned out to be hard work, note to future self) The other camo that tempting is the Dünkelgelb and Olivegrün splinter(? straight lined) one. Aaron
  17. Sturmgeschütz III Ausf.G/Sturmhaubitze 42 w/Zimmerit (DW35021) 1:35 Das Werk via Albion Alloys Following WWI the German military had identified a weakness in their forces, in that their advancing troops often left behind the support of their artillery as they moved forward, leading to a call for the creation of Sturmartillerie, which was effectively a mobile artillery piece that could travel alongside their forces, providing valuable protection. By the time the Nazis were gearing up their economy and military for war more openly, a requirement for just such a vehicle was made official, mating the chassis of the then current Panzer III with a short-barrelled 75mm gun in a fixed armoured casemate with limited traverse, which gave the type a distinctive howitzer-style look. In the later variants a longer high-velocity gun, the 7.5 cm StuK 40 L/48 replaced the shorter gun to give it an improved penetrating power that was more in alignment with the Tank Killer job that it had become used for. These vehicles were designated Ausf.F or G, and were amongst the most produced version of this almost ubiquitous WWII tank. A project to up-gun the StuG was instigated using an Ausf.F chassis and a 10.5cm leFH 18 howitzer, taking the name Sturmhaubitze 42 or StuH 42 for short. It was electrically fired, and was to be fitted with a muzzle-brake to bleed off some of the recoil, and a dozen of this type were made from repaired Ausf.F examples, then almost 1,300 built as infantry support that were based on the Ausf.G, some without their muzzle-brakes due to the poor availability of metal as the war continued to turn against the Nazis, thanks to the Allied bomber force battering their industrial base into dust on a 24/7 schedule. The Kit If you’ve been wondering where Dragon have gone in the AFV world, you should know that this kit is a reboxing of their 2007 kit that they released regularly as different variants over the years. This boxing has waffle-texture zimmerit applied to its upper surfaces and hull sides, which is extremely well-executed, and was ahead of its time when it was originally moulded, and still looking good under 2020's high-definition gaze. The kit arrives in a nicely appointed box with Das Werk’s branding and artwork printed on the box lid, and inside are fifteen sprues and the lower hull in grey styrene, a clear sprue, a Photo-Etch (PE) fret, small decal sheet, a length of braided wire, and a new instruction booklet with full-colour printing on glossy paper that has a simulated aged patina, and even includes a coffee ring on one of the pages, and a sketch of a couple of German tankers poring over a map in the corner of another page. You can still see the Dragon logo on the sprues, with most of them also bearing the StuG III G or StuG III G w/zim logos, while one is marked as Heuschrecke IVb, from which you only take the barrel and breech parts for the StuH 42. This is heyday Dragon, so the detail is excellent, as you can see in the pictures. Construction begins with the lower hull, which has a full set of torsion-bars linked to the swing arms fitted along with a damper on the front wheel, and armoured drive-sprocket fairing at the very front of the chassis. The rear bulkhead has the twin exhausts, towing shackles and torch-cut armoured brackets installed, plus a Zimmerit covered lower glacis plate. The road wheels are made up in pairs, as are the smaller return-rollers, while the drive-sprocket has the final drive bell-housing attached to the rear, and the idler wheels have two PE rings between them, a central cap on the outside, with the idler axle and adjustment mechanism at the rear. There are 12 pairs of road wheels, six pairs of return-rollers, and two each of the idlers and drive sprockets. The rear bulkhead is mounted under the back lip of the hull, with a PE mesh above it, and armoured panels and ducting around it, plus an armoured access hatch for the manual starter. The fenders are separate from the body in this kit, and they are shown being covered with pioneer tools, including a highly detailed jack, plus a pair of towing cables made from styrene eyes and a braided metal cable, which seems to have gone missing in my box, but was quickly replaced by Albion’s excellent customer service. Just give them a call if anything is missing and the model shop you bought it from can't help. Attention turns to the casemate now, with the commander’s cupola first on the agenda, made up from a circular base with seven clear vision blocks inserted from below, an armoured cover above, a PE insert and the hatch. A bracket extends inside the hull to support the commander’s sighting periscope, then it is put aside while other details are installed on the waffle-textured armoured panels. The vertical appliqué armour to each side of the gun is attached, including the driver’s vision port and armoured glass, some cheek detail panels with Zimmerit are fitted, and at the rear an extractor fan with armoured cover and two aerial bases are fixed to the outside. Inside the casemate the radio gear is built up in two packs, and ledged upon the inside lip of the sponson, with another set of shelves on the other. The roof panel goes on with the cupola, and the two simple hatches with optional flat armoured splinter-shield in front, which could also be posed hinged upright with an MG34 machine gun poking through the shield, although somewhere along the line the numbers given in that step (step 10) seem to have come adrift from what's on the sprues, as there’s no part 31 on sprue F. Part 27 is an MG34 however, and it has a hollow muzzle thanks to a little sliding mould. Moving to the engine deck, the four vents all have raised armoured covers to prevent ingress of dirt, grenades and plunging fire. Around these there are several pioneer tools added, plus radiator boxes on each side, which have mesh covers for the same reasons. A couple of spare road wheel pairs are made up, fitted to custom axles, which are bolted to the rearmost two armoured covers on the deck, and have six spare track pins inserted into the lightening holes on each one. On the glacis plate the two clamshell maintenance hatches and their chunky latches are slotted into the plate, a large bullet-splash upstand in front of the driver’s viewport, and a central convoy light are all fitted in place, making up yet another sub-assembly that will form the upper hull later on. Unusually, the interior of the fighting compartment is made up and inserted into the upper hull from inside, with the floor made up first with central raised section below the breech, which is built up with either the breech-block for the 10.5cm StuH, or the 7.5cm StuK guns, depending on which you have decided upon. The sighting, traverse and elevation gear are added to the gun supports with seats for the gunner on the left, then you build up whichever of the two barrels you have chosen. The 10.5cm barrel is shorter and has a single muzzle-brake insert, while the longer 7.5cm gun has two inserts added to a separate muzzle-brake, which keys into the tip of the single-part gun tube, with both sliding inside the gun sleeve and into the heavy trapezoid mantlet. The breech and gun supports are mated with the interior, and is slipped into the upper hull from below, which has the engine deck, fenders and glacis plate joined up and your choice of barrel slotted into position before it is put to the side while you make up the tracks on the lower hull. The tracks are well detailed link-and-length, and have a jig that helps to obtain the correct sag on the top run. The top run is made from four lengths with a single link between each one to assist with the sag, then nine links go round either end of the running gear, with another length and single link joined together with a long final length under the road wheels. The instructions advise that although you can flex the tracks to help with the sag, they will eventually break, so take it easy and work carefully. The part numbers for the other side are given in brackets, and each link as two raised ejector-pin marks on their inner face, which can be shaved off with a sharp blade and then sanded flush with the rest of the run. It shouldn’t take too long, and it depends how dirty you’re going to make your tracks. With the tracks finished and in position, the upper hull is joined to the lower, and that’s your lot! Markings There are a generous five decal options from the kit’s decal sheet, with lots of different camouflage options to choose from. Each vehicle is shown in three views, with one having a scrap diagram next to it for an alternative marking on the glacis. From the box you can build one of the following: Gebirgs-Panzerjägerabteilung 95, Hungary, late 1944 StuG Brigade 277 (StuG Brig. 277), Lithuania, between Vilnius and Kaunas, July 1944 StuG Abteilung 261, Eastern front, late October 1943 StuG Brigade 322 (StuG Brig. 322), Kovel, Russia, June 1944 StuG Brigade 202, (StuG Brig. 202), Kurland 1945 The decals aren’t marked as such, but on the box you can see that they are printed by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion If you’ve been missing the Dragon StuG.III, or wanted to make the less common StuH, this kit will be just what the doctor ordered. It comes from Dragon’s premiere division days, with excellent detail throughout, especially the waffle-textured Zimmerit on the outer panels. It has just the right level of irregularity about it that makes it look much more realistic than serried ranks of perfectly executed shapes. The paste was applied by hand, afterall. Very highly recommended. Available in the UK in good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  18. gep. Munitionsschlepper VK3.02 (DW35016) 1:35 Das Werk distributed by Albion Alloys The gepanzerter Munitionsschlepper was a product of Borgward, a German car manufacturer before the war, which designed a tracked vehicle able to carry a tonne of ammunition to frontline troops while protecting it from small arms fire, to prevent a large crater where the vehicle once was. It was created as the VK3.01 and was first demonstrated in 1940, but the enlarged VK3.02 was preferred, even though it too had issues with crew space and the arrangement of the load area, plus a tendency for the drive wheels to clog. Production was painfully slow however, and it was temporarily suspended then reinstated with more units being made, which finally saw service in 1943, with more joining them later. They were used in both the Western and Eastern front, with a number of them having new drive wheels installed either at the factory or later on to improve off-road performance. The Kit This is a collaborative new tooling between Das Werk and Amusing Hobby, and arrives in a small top-opening box, with three sprues, an upper hull part, and a bag of four track lengths, all in the same sand-coloured styrene, a separate ziplok bag with decals inside, plus a colour instruction booklet with painting guide inside the back cover. It's a small model with plenty of detail and additional parts for the long track lengths with internal detail moulded-in, whereas the parts on the sprues don’t have the link gaps moulded-in, so leave those there in case you have an oopsie. Don’t forget the wise words on the box – figures not included. Neither are the tanks, buildings ground or sky. You do however get a little bit of air included in the box and within the bags. Don’t let it escape! Construction begins with the hull, which received a floor and two-panel rear bulkhead, the latter then having track tensioners and numberplate fitted to the vertical part. At the front, two side extensions are added with rivets and stiffening webs to improve the detail by the final drive. Short fenders are also put in place adjacent to the glacis area, and a small convoy light is installed on the centre of the panel, with headlights that have slotted covers on the rear of each fender. Small suspension parts are glued in before the wheels are begun, which comprise paired road wheels and two parts drive-sprockets, plus two-part idlers at the rear on the adjustable stations. The crew compartment receives a front panel with two vision slots and another small slot in the door panel, which has a large stowage box attached at the mid-point. A roof panel with clamshell doors that can be left open or closed complete the driver area, and this is backed by the front wall of the stowage area, which is built up from surfaces that fit like a pannier over the engine deck of the base vehicle, and inside are a few ejector-pin marks that you might want to clean up if you aren’t filling it with ammo. There’s a fire-extinguisher on the right front fender, a short exhaust muffler and mudguards at the rear, plus another stowage box on the other side door and a towing hitch back at the rear. On the glacis access hatch an eye and the S-shaped track tool are latched in place and then it’s tracks time. As already alluded to, the tracks are link and length, with additional, more-detailed replacement lengths in a ziplok bag with the kit. The top and bottom runs use these lengths, with separate links to make the highly curved areas around the ends of the track run, using 12 links at the front and 10 more at the rear on each side. The lengths have small overflow pips at the edge of each link, which will need cutting off and making good, with two sprue gates and two overflow pips on the individual links. You only have 44 links and four lengths to clean up though, so it shouldn’t take too long. A scrap diagram shows the correct direction of the links on the vehicle, although I’m sure I’ve seen a picture of at least one vehicle with a track run on backwards, so it’s entirely possible to get away with it until your commander makes you refit it the correct way round. Markings It’s a teeny-weeny decal sheet with three each of black, white, and black and white crosses, plus two instances of the word “Klara” in black, which is used above the door vision slot on the sand-coloured vehicle, but wasn't depicted on the digital files we used (just imagine it's there). The schemes aren’t documented as to where, when or who they were used by, but from the box you can build one of the following: Paint codes are from the AMMO range, as the profiles have been penned by them, and the decals are perfectly serviceable for the task in hand with no discernible drift between the black and white on the three crosses where that applies. Conclusion This little workhorse would look great resupplying tanks, artillery or even troops, covered in mud like on the boxtop, unloading or loading up boxes of munitions of any type. It’s a nice kit with plenty of detail on the exterior and nicely moulded tracks. Just remember to leave the original lengths on the sprues. Highly recommended. Available in the UK in most good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  19. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/das-werk-dw72001-wwi-german-u-boat-sm-u-9--1311705
  20. Hallo again This is my Kettenkrad from DAS WERK. Actually it was a challenge to build the smallest vehicle on track. Beside my tanks and half tracks. It was not so complicated. Most headache caused the instruction. After corresponding with the team of DAS WERK yesterday, they told me the instruction is already revised. Fine. Other instructions like for the FAUN and SdAnh are not. Be carefully when reading them and cross check the plausibility. Not more to say. Happy modelling
  21. Das Werk (link) is to release a 1/32nd Junkers EF-126 "Elli" & EF-127 "Walli" - 3 in 1 kit - ref. DW32001 Source: https://www.das-werk-models.com/products/ju-ef-126-elli-ef-127-walli-3-in-1/ Box art Decals & Schemes And the MBK video report https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDF3sXgSczs V.P.
  22. German Luftwaffe Jack Stand Set (Extended Edition) DW4802 1:48 Das Werk (MBK Distribution with Uschi Van Der Rosten) Whilst searching for information on my recent dual Fw.190A build, I stumbled across pictures of this set, and homed in on it immediately with my clicky finger. It turns out that Das Werk is a collaboration between Uschi Van Der Rosten, a well-known modeller, and MBK Distribution to bring us some rather interesting sets that will be of fairly broad interest to anyone that's considering a diorama of WWII Luftwaffe aircraft in maintenance. Surprisingly, the set is in injection moulded styrene, which is great news if you're a tad wary of resin, and when it arrives you'll find that inside the sturdy cardboard box there are four sprues, each one of which will allow you to build a short stand, a long stand (cue jokes about apprentices and tartan paint), plus a saw horse as a bonus. Four sprues will give you four of each of those items, which should be plenty to keep you going for a while. The sprues are top-flight injection moulded, with very fine seamlines, no flash, and modest sprue-gates, which is good news when you look at the finesse of the parts. In construction all you need to do is scrape away the seamlines with a sharp blade, and they are ready for a bit of glue. The instructions walk you through the process, and they go together very well, with only the small pull-handles at the sides needing careful alignment and more care during handling. I have built up two of the taller jack stands (the short ones build up the same way) and a saw horse, and they all went together very easily and are currently sat in primer while I get a new base for the dio that I have planned, as the old one cracked. You can set the height of the horizontal bar that fits into the jack points on the fuselage to suit your purposes, and on the website there are some suggestions here for alterations to the set that will facilitate wider use with different airframes and maintenance situations, such as a trip to the gun butts for weapons convergence when there isn't one of those fancy semi-permanent installations that were more common on permanent bases. Conclusion A simple to construct and seldom seen item that would otherwise be hard to scratchbuild, and it's in injection styrene! Quality is excellent too, and the contents of the box are pretty generous. If you're ever in the market for this kind of diorama, these are a must-have. The same set is available in two flavours in addition to the Extended set. There is the Standard edition with two sprues, this edition with four, and the Bundle edition which includes both the Standard and Extended editions, giving you six of everything. You can see them all by clicking on the Available Here button below. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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