NIK122

Excellent 😎

Never put off what you can do tomorrow, tomorrow!🤔🤪 You know it would be a crime to not finish this build. No pressure! No, none at all!💪

An absolute work of art😎

Ok lets try a different tack. Has anyone got an M5A1 kit in 1/35 that comes with a tow cables? Could you find the time to photograph the cable end and add measurements for the loop and the length of the cable?, and post them here. Many thanks

A great build and finish. The weathering is just right. Nice one John 😎

Hi all. Does anyone know where you can get 1/16 Allied/US tow cables+ends?

The camo scheme is great! Dazzle pattern on a very hot day!?! 😎

More to follow shortly! To include, dashboard trauma's 🙄, amongst other things 😎........it will be finished!!!

I shall try Vallejo paints. Thanks for the recommendation 😎 Ooooooh matron!!!

Thanks John!

Bonkers good! Who needs model companies!?! Can you not print some 3D hinges for the hood!? Like you say, 'its a shame to cover up all the engine detail'. 😎

Good evening! Hopefully nearing the end of this one?!😌 I would have posted sooner but you know, life, painting trauma's...... I'd hoped to recreate the black leather effects that I'd achieved on my Famo build...........remember that one?!?! No me neither it would seem. Not entirely sure what I was doing differently but a change of tack eventually resolved the issues. So for anyone interested, my method for painting black leather is now- Tamiya flat black XF1 base coat. Humbrol #64 Light grey matt. Dry brushed on the edges and any raised areas likely to show more wear.(I find enamel paint a lot easier to dry brush than acrylic). Citadel Colour Contrast darkoath flesh. This works like a glaze. It was used straight from the pot and painted over the entire surface. It dries with a satin sheen that I found just the ticket. Also on a plus side there is no need to seal the enamel paint as you would need to with an oil wash. Depending on the light source the surface appears very dark, black to brown. Everything is dry fitted at this point to allow for weathering the floor and foot wells. I'm not sure that the colour is necessarily accurate but I think it's more interesting than just painting the interior a semi gloss black. The underside of the folding seat has been left without a brown wash. Moving on to the folded rag top. Like the seats in the car there is very little fine molded detail in the way of creases and folds. I've tried to add some creases to make the cover look a little more natural. Below illustrates the difference between the parts before and after. As you can see the collapsed frame part has a horrible slab attachment piece. The slab was sanded out and a piece of 0.5mm of evergreen was added to the top of the cover where the frames are attached to help with the look of it. As it was the frames finished flush with the cover and well, didn't look covered. Folds have been added with a Dremel. Working round the cover adding realistic folds was harder than I hoped and may have been easier if I'd applied a thin layer of something that could have been sculpted. You live and learn. Adding thinned Tamiya putty, then sanding it, helped tone it all down and look a little more realistic. Once happy with my efforts I added the piping on the seams with stretched sprue. The final touch, I hope, was adding the missing stays. The later G4's don't have them as the roof cover continues right to the end of the frames. Image below of an early G4's folded top. So a little more scratch building using 1mm evergreen rod and sheet, 0.5mm brass rod and a bit of sprue. The brass rod was flattened on the ends with pliers to make the handle shape. They're not perfect but better than nothing. And in place. Thanks for looking

Yep! She looks the business. Very nicely done John. 😎

Beautiful!😎

Really nice work on the Speedo! 😎