Jump to content

NIK122

Members
  • Posts

    157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    France

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

NIK122's Achievements

New Member

New Member (2/9)

652

Reputation

  1. Congratulations on the repairs! Great stuff with the rest. The brackets were definitely the way to go on the mudguards
  2. Good evening. A little more on the base details. The base was looking a little sterile so I've been trying to add some realism. Modelling a beach hasn't been as straight forward as I imagined. The colour of the sand both wet and dry for instance took some work. Using photos of Normandy beaches it's been a case of trial and error. Tamiya Desert yellow with a little flat yellow base. Tamiya Buff overspray for the lighter colour and a custom oil wash to try and simulate wet sand over the bottom half of the base. The posts have been airbrushed Tamiya Buff and then painted with an oil wash. The addition of some seaweed has helped with the beach setting. Made from thin strips of Tamiya tape. The tracks on the ARV have now been permanently fixed. They are the kit rubber band tracks which I ended up using instead of the Hobby Boss individual links. Fair play to anyone who has the patience to assemble 123 pieces per side when the links don't even clip together. They weren't for me. Thanks for looking
  3. Well, s**t! I hope you can fix your masterpiece!? I confess my dad's Airfix Bentley didn't fare much better after I got my grubby mitts on it and tried driving it through a carpet . Good luck with the repairs
  4. Thanks George! Not sure about Saintly, more a little unhinged. Still it's all about having a go with these things. I'm not sure I'll be doing a WW1 scene any time soon though.
  5. Good evening! A small update. The builds slowly coming together. The stowage has all been painted and is ready to go. It's just a case of deciding how to place it all. All the pieces were airbrushed a base colour and then given a Tamiya dark brown wash and some dry brushing. I've tried to keep the chipping effects to a minimum as the plan is to represent the vehicle after its just come ashore. The base was missing some details so as I like punishing my eye sight I decided to have a go at making some barbed wire to add interest. My neighbour kindly donated some electrical wire of a suitable gauge. Straight forward enough but fiddly and time consuming. A single strand of wire doubled over and twisted in a pin vice makes the central wire. The barbs were made by looping two strands. The first has the loop at the top and the second the loop at the bottom of the main strand. Each is held in place with a drop of CA. The strands are then cut to length. I must of spent six hours making 175mm of wire in shifts. I think it was worth it. And in place. Finally some base colours going onto the base. I'm hoping less is more by not overdoing items on the base bearing in mind most of the base is taken up by the ARV. Thoughts welcome. Thanks for looking
  6. Thanks! It's had its challenges yes! It's my first resin conversion and as I'd now like to build the Centaur dozer probably not the last. A 1/35 Crusader dozer would be good too but it doesn't look like there is one. If I can get hold of some drawings maybe it's time to try full scratch build!?
  7. Good morning. Some progress with this build. Decals added but not sealed in as yet. The Tamiya decals have been used to represent a vehicle of the 5th RTR, Cold stream guards, C company, I hope?!?! The licence plate is made up from two decals and is fictional. The air recognition symbol was masked and airbrushed on. Whether the position is right I really don't know. Putting decals on the engine deck didn't fill me with confidence with such an uneven surface. Placing a mask also was a pain in the bottom. The logic ended up being if I can't place a stencil in the center of the deck in 1:35, why would it be possible in 1:1. So it's on the flattest area of the deck. It needs toning down. The tow cables have been the biggest challenge of this build to date. I bought a set of Eureka cables which are nice but there isn't enough cable for two sets. I've reached my limit on what I want to spend on this kit so I've settled for the Tamiya string. Was this the right thing to do? I don't know but on the plus side positioning them on the vehicle wasn't as difficult as imagined. The cable provided by AA on the other hand was a pig. The positioning was made easier by wrapping the cable around the lid of a Micro set bottle to reduce the radius. It was less of a struggle to tease out the cable than to push it inwards and have it spring outwards. All of the stowage at this point is unfinished and dry fitted. I've got boxed Besa ammunition and loose tins to add and some kit bags. Its starting to fill up but I feel it needs more. I've started some light weathering on the running gear. The tracks are not set in their final positions yet. Any thoughts on the stowage or just generally welcome. Thanks for looking
  8. Hello Stuart. Wood method. Paint your plank, box, block etc a buff colour. Preferably with acrylics otherwise you will need to acrylic varnish before adding oils. Paint a thin coat of oil over the buff colour. I used Burnt umber for a darker looking wood, or you could use Burnt sienna for a reddish look. With a flat brush dipped in white spirit (dry brush on paper towel first) the oil paint can be thinned exposing the buff colour underneath. If you use a stiff flat brush grain can be added this way. Alternatively, or as well, a toothpick will expose the lighter colour underneath the oil paint creating a wood grain effect. I hope this is of some help
  9. Hello. Some more of this build. All of the additional elements have arrived in the post and are in the painting stage. Thanks for the suggestions on stowage brands. I particularly liked the 'Red Zebra' offerings but ended up with the MiniArt set as it happened to be in my local hobby store. Maybe next time. The Bronco models accessory set is really good for value and detail and includes decals. I'm not going to be short of anything for any future Allied builds. Below is a sample of the Bronco stowage. MiniArt tarps in the the background. My plan is to load up the ARV with as much stowage as possible and depict the vehicle coming ashore on Gold beach D-day +1. I don't know if this would be the case with all the stowage so there is some artistic license going on to make, I hope, for an interesting model. There is one historical photo (Image below), that I've found with the Cromwell ARV packed to the gunnels with stowage in action but whether this would be the case immediately on landing I don't know. Maybe one of you with knowledge of this could comment. It would be most welcome. I didn't realize what a can of worms allied OD paint colour was after doing some digging around online. After getting tied up in knots about it I decided to take the plunge and just go for it. Whether what I'm doing is correct or not I don't know and as every time I take a photo of the model the green looks different, as you will see, it really has been a case of going for it. Below is a road wheel painted with Mig dark Russian base and one shot with Tamiya XF-62/XF-60, 50:50 ratio, afterwards. The logic in this is has been gloss varnished and oil washes have been added the OD will become a lot darker. I'll let you guys be the judge of this. Below some wood effects. The parts were painted a buff colour then burnt umber oil paint added and using a tooth pick grain was added whilst the oil paint was still wet. Hull with some modulation. The model in natural light isn't quite as dark as this but the colour is the same if that makes any sense? Some details picked out with a brush. Same model and completely different green in the photo! Photographed under a new LED light I bought this weekend the model has changed colour once again. Its now looking really light and nothing like it actually does. Its since been gloss coated for decals and washes and of course its changed the green again. Finally I've started on the base. The usual method of sculpted high density foam board covered with two part wood filler and sanded. Tread pattern made using milli-put. Fine sand added and fixed with ballast freeze and ready for some paint. Thanks for looking
  10. Fantastic! Really looking forward to more
  11. Good afternoon. Just a quick question. Is there such a thing as a decent set of WW2 British 'generic' stowage available anywhere? I've got the Bronco field accessories set and Besa ammo box set from AA on order but what about tarps and kit bags etc. I've seen Miniart have a set but it's a little underwhelming. Thanks
  12. A fascinating build. The details are great and there is something very satisfying about seeing a model homogenized with colour. Great work
  13. Good evening! Progress to date on this build. Thoroughly enjoying this model but its not been without its issues so without further ado........... I motored along with the assembly of the jib arms and the positioning of the brackets with the exception of the resin part (SH). It was a bit of a head scratcher as the part looks as though time has been taken getting the measurements right and then, well I'm not sure what's happened!? It looks to me like the part has splayed somehow. It wasn't the end of the world to fix it, just fiddly. Moving onto the frames that sit on either side of the vehicle. The longer of the two frames cannot make up its mind where it goes and needs some attention. If you try and fit the frame this way with the two tabs against the round plate, the frame protrudes past the front upright plate of the vehicle which isn't right. If the frame is moved back and into the correct position the two tabs no longer align with the round plate. The frame also then projects past the storage box below it at the back. The two tabs (the left and middle arrows), that sit against the round plate could both be removed but I opted to just remove the left hand one. To cut a long story short, the frames too long. John Tapsell came to the rescue with his published measurements which I think are spot on. Below the resin frame are the correct dimensions. I used the drawing to check that all the parts to be added would still fit with any alterations. Another issue to address. The central section of the frame doesn't align. Below is the altered frame. The end of the frame to the left has been cut off, the frame shortened and then the end reattached. The misaligned frame bar removed and replaced with plastic strip. The tab on the right probably should align with the white plastic strip but its position as it is looks correct in relation to the hinges of the drivers hatch. And attached. The opposite frame was much the same and shortened to fit. Plastic strip at the back due to damaging the resin. The white plastic bars attaching the frame to the roof of the hull replace the resin ones offered with the AA kit. Replaced for two reasons. The first being that in order to get the frames sitting parallel with the top of the hull, small plastic shims were added to the underside of the frames on the inside. This created a step between the frames and resin bars so to fix this thicker plastic strips were added. Weld beads around them will stop them looking too heavy. The second reason being building kits with superglue, is it fun? A point of note. It would be great if a revised addition of the AA kit had the frames as photo etch parts for scale thickness and rigidity. Just a thought. Sods law! Straight back on the super glue. More fiddly bits. Some additional towing cable bracket details added from photo etch sprue. And the opposite side. Dry fitting at this point.- Regularly turning blue at this point whilst trying to position parts using superglue. For anyone thinking of building this kit I recommend fitting the bracket before the shovel. Some shots of additional details, mudguards and fire extinguishers. Engine deck whatnots and handles. Drivers vision port. Another tow cable bracket and the wing mirror? bracket. I'll add the rod the mirror is fixed to right at the end of the build. And the whole thing together. There are so many nooks and crannies that I've left all the large resin parts loose for ease of painting. I've since primed the model so next time I'll tackle the base. As always thanks for looking
  14. Hi John. I think you're right about the C deck. Just had a good look at the images I've collected from the internet and I think the image below settles it. You can just make out two sets of hinges on the left and right at the back of the engine deck. The next decision is whether to replace all the molded on handles!? Thanks for taking the time
×
×
  • Create New...