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Found 21 results

  1. FV 4005 Stage 2 Self-Propelled Gun (35A029) 1:35 Amusing Hobby Everyone with an interest in British armour probably knows the Centurion tank at least on sight, and that it was the UK’s earliest Main Battle Tank, and most well-regarded amongst its peers, having a long service life and more variants than many. One of its many variants includes the lesser-known Self-Propelled Gun (SPG) prototypes that are lesser known for the reason that they never proceeded past prototype. The initial SPG variants began with big ambitions, but were abandoned in favour of other more appealing projects, one of which was the FV433 Abbot. The huge 183mm gun that was to be mounted in the FV4005 was developed from a 7.2” howitzer, and was enclosed in a fairly lightly armoured turret on a Centurion chassis. It fared no better, and was dismantled before the end of the 50s. A similar fate befell the FV 4004, named the Conway that was developed as a fill-in until the big Conqueror came on-stream, based upon a Mk.3 Centurion chassis and a 120mm gun in an oversized turret. Happily, the FV4005 now resides at Bovington Tank Museum, and if you’ve ever seen it in the grounds there, you’ll realise what a huge turret it had. The Kit This is a new tool from Amusing Hobby, who have a thing for British “almost” projects of late, and are filling in some gaps between the in-service tanks that will no doubt please the what-if modellers as well as those that enjoy building cancelled projects or just downright unusual vehicles. The kit arrives in a by-now familiar box with a rather severe-looking painting of the SPG in an urban environment with what looks vaguely like a burned out T-34 in the background. Inside the box are ten sprues of varying sizes in sand-coloured styrene, plus a single lower hull part in the same colour. There is also a bag of brown track-links, a bag of brass springs, a length of braided cable, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a diminutive decal sheet and the instruction booklet with a colour cover that has profiles on the rear. Detail is good throughout, with large slab-sided panels everywhere, differentiating from the cast elements such as the final drive housing that has a light casting texture moulded-in. If you want a more realistic finish to the rolled steel parts, check the available photos online and consult the various techniques for producing the texture on such armour. Construction begins with the assembly of the bogies that are built around the springs to give the suspension arms some real travel, providing you keep the glue away from the pivot points. There are three of these each side of the large hull tub, and each one carries four wheels in pairs on two axles each, held onto the axles with a central hub part. The tracks are wide, so the return rollers sit on projecting bases, and long stand-off brackets are added to support the side skirts later in the build. The huge final drive housing is layered up and topped with a toothed drive sprocket and a small roller that is probably there to prevent track shedding during turns. At the front is the idler wheel on an axle that pivots to give good track tension once you have made them up and wrapped them around the road wheels. The tracks are supplied free of any sprues and quite free of clean-up, especially if you are planning on dirtying them up later, so you can just start making them up there and then. Each side uses 102 links, and as they snap together they shouldn’t take too long to put together, which is nice. I put together 12 links in a few minutes, and they do remain workable, although they aren’t as mobile as they could be. You might get the occasional one coming adrift, but in general they should be fairly easy to fit, and if you want to freeze them in place once you have them installed, a dab of glue to each link will do the trick, leaving you free to handle them more roughly during the painting process. Both runs of links are applied to the vehicles with the traction bar to the rear, so ensure you test-fit them properly before you put them in for the final time. Due to the size of the gun and hefty recoil, the rear bulkhead has a self-entrenching tool fitted on two swing-arms along with the armoured cooling vents and the ubiquitous communications telephone box on the rear. The engine deck is attached to the turret ring, then fitted to the hull, with the area under the mantlet having a large clamshell hatch with vision blocks in each half. The glacis plate has the front fenders moulded-in, and the rear portion of the engine-deck is closed off with a set of access panels with a raised edge, then the big fenders are fitted to a groove in the side of the hull, with detail parts added all down the side of the stowage boxes. The exhaust and its silencer sit on the aft sections of the fenders with a flared tip at the rear and a heat shield, then it is joined by a number of pioneer tools and the rear mudguards on both sides. PE stiffener plates are attached to the front fenders, along with the towing eyes and shackles front and rear, plus the side skirts that will hide away a lot of the tracks, so you could perhaps skimp with track building there if you wanted too. The turret is provided as an open-ended shell to which you add the rear panel with moulded-in access hatch, then detail with the stiffening ribs that are prominent on the sides. Small hatches are fitted to the roof, and the .303 coax machinegun is visible through the front of the box that sits on the left of the mantlet, while underneath the turret is fitted a stepped floor with the turret ring on the lower area, and the perforated floor in the rear. The tall mantlet has a pivot mechanism glued to the rear before it is inserted into the front of the turret, with a slot for the gun barrel, which is made up from three cylindrical sections, each having hollow tips, one for the muzzle, and one for the attachment to the pivot. The turret is then flipped over and slotted into the hull, with two double-tow cables made up from plastic eyes and the braided material that is provided. These are draped on the deck around the rear of the turret, with a location point on the rear hull and on the tops of the fenders. The last part of the vehicle to be constructed is the gun travel-lock, which can be made up on stowed or travel positions and using the same set of parts for each. For the stowed option the two front braces are folded to the sides of the glacis and the main A-frame is laid flat down the slope, while the travelling set-up has the A-frame standing at an angle with the clamp around the barrel and the front braces standing vertically. Markings This tank, nicknamed a less family-friendly version of the “poopbarn” never saw service, so the postage stamp sized decal sheet is adequate. It consists of a black maple-leaf and a white/red/white banner that is reminiscent of the WWI colours worn by the early British tanks. In addition, an April Fool decal and serial number in white. Only one vehicle is shown on the instructions, so you’re left wondering where the black leaf goes. If you check out the side of the box however, you’ll see another chassis in a NATO-esque four colour scheme with the emblem on the turret, but this isn’t documented elsewhere, so you’ll have to make up the camo demarcations that can’t be seen. Conclusion An interesting tank that sits somewhere between What-If and reality, having one extant chassis that I’ve seen with my own eyes outside Bovvy. It’s an exterior kit with good detail, nice tracks and an impressive turret that will doubtless generate some questions as to what it is wherever you display it. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Roman Centurion (1 Century) ICM 1:16 (16302) Although Britmodeller has members from all around the world, there are several of us, including Mike 'The Boss' who reside in and around the City of Chester in North West England. Chester was originally founded by the Roman Army in the year 79 AD, as the fortress of Deva. The street plan is today almost exactly that laid down by the Romans, and the city is rich in Roman heritage and archaeology. Chester is one of the few cities in Europe that still retains it's ancient city walls, and Roman stonework is still visible along lengths of it. The city also boasts a large amphitheater, although only half of it has been excavated due to another listed building sitting over the other half. Think of the movie 'Gladiator' to imagine what used to take place there. It was with interest then that we received this 1:16 scale figure of a Roman Centurion from ICM, he is perfect as one of the original inhabitants of Deva. The Centurion was the linchpin of the Roman army. Promotion was only through merit, he had to be an accomplished swordsman, tactician, and leader, among many other qualities. Typically he would lead around 80 soldiers and 20 servants and orderlies, hence the name 'Centurion' as leader of 100 men. They were responsible for the morale, discipline, and fighting qualities of their men, and must have been very tough and fearsome individuals. The kit comes in a large box with a painting of a Centurion looking ready for action, or perhaps drilling his men. The box top is more of a sleeve that lifts off to reveal a sturdy top opening cardboard box that hold all the parts. Inside are two grey sprues, a three part stand moulded in black, an construction/painting guide, and a nice print of the box top illustration. First impressions are of flawlessly mouded parts with sharp detail and finesse. Sprues A and B form the base for the figure, and are moulded in black plastic. Your choice to paint it or use it as it comes, but certainly it will look nice under a coat of satin or gloss black paint. Sprue C contains the main elements of the figure himself, torso, lags, arms and head. All of it is beautifully moulded, the face in particular is incredibly realistic. The main body armour is 'scale mail' which looks like fish or reptile scales rather than chain mail. Moulded on to it is the leather strap work onto which the is attached the 'Phalera', the polished discs which were awarded rather like medals are today. The legs are also beautifully moulded with metal guards and 'caligae' (sandals) incorporated. The 'Galea' (helmet) has a the distinctive horsehair crest mounted on it. It is thought that ordinary Legionaries had theirs aligned fore and aft, whilst centurions wore theirs side to side. The moulded example looks perfectly good, but I would be interested to see if using something like fine bristles from a nylon brush would work. Sprue D holds the main helmet, shield and weapons. The Gladius (sword) was the Roman soldiers main weapon and devastatingly effective. It could be used with an upward or downward thrust due to is double edge, and also in a forward thrust stabbing motion. Both sheathed and unsheathed versions are supplied, so if you build your figure holding the Gladius, the handle will need cutting off the scabbard from the sheathed version. Also included is the Pugio (dagger), which is worn on the left side of the belt. In another sign of status, Centurions wore their Pugio and Gladius on the opposite side to the regular legionaires. The largest part is the shield, which is nicely moulded and features the wings and lightning bolt markings lightly engraved on its surface. I would have thought that a decal might have been provided for this, but no, the intention is that you should paint it. I will use the technique of tracing it onto paper and making a template to cut the design from solid yellow decal film. Finer detail, mainly black trim, can then be added with a fine brush. The painting guide also doubles up as an assembly guide as it is pretty obvious where everything goes. Paint call outs are keyed to Revell and Tamiya paint ranges, but again are pretty obvious. Conclusion. I'm not normally a figure modeller but I do like to try different aspects of modelling from time to time. The mouldings look really superb and absolutely flawless. I've built a few ICM vehicle and aircraft kits and they are beautifully engineered, with very precise and accurate fit. I'm really looking forward to building this, he will represent our local Legion XX 'Valeria Victrix' who were based in Chester for over 200 years from the first century AD onwards. Recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Hello Folks. Today i introduce my Centurion Shot Kal during Yom kippur war 1973. This model was built four years ago. Best regards. Michael.
  4. Spotted this in one of the blogs Homebee posted up on Shizuka Trade show, its under misc section so no idea who's doing it as yet but pretty sure some will find this very tempting as and when it appears
  5. Hi This topic has already been explored in 2010 in this forum, but I am afraid the answer was not clear-cut. So, what was the colour for Centurions Mk.3 during the korean war, SCC or rather Deep Bronze Green ? There are some colour pictures of Centurions in the IWM collections ("The service of Sydney Sherriff in the Royal Armoured Corps in Korea") showing a rather deep green. Deep Bronze Green ? I am not a british colours specialist, but I am sure you can help.
  6. Moebius 1:6 Cylon Centurion, built straight OOB
  7. CENTURION Mk.5/2 Modified now into a Mk.6 Will include the originally planned AF35162 Hush Puppy Track and will include the AC35009 Centurion Mantlet (Type 'B') as neither come in the kit. I'm on a bit of a B.A.O.R kick at the moment so this is right in my ball-park
  8. This build is being posted on other forums, so please accept my apologies if you have seen it before. This will be my first attempt at an AFV since coming back to the hobby. I'll be looking for suggestions etc. from those more experienced AFV builders on here, if they are willing Anyway, I picked this kit up from ebay for £30, which i though wasn't bad. The box is a bit battered and a few pieces had come off of the sprues in thier bags. The decals are yellow but its all there. I am going to attempt an Israerli version in Dark Yellow. I Know that their current vehicles are painted Yellow-Grey, but I don't think that the early Centurions were done in that colour. I'm happy to be corrected by those more knowledgable. These first few shots are from the internal turret detail. The light grey is just Vajello grey primer sprayed liberally and dry brushed with tamiya metallic grey XF56. The chipping was applied by hand with a very fine brush, dabbing on MC214 Dark Iron from Mr.MetalColor. A Mix of Dark And Rust wash was applied. The light grey primer sprayed over the Mid Grey-Blue Plastic showing the contrast. The shell cases were sprayed with MC217 Mr.MetalColor Gold. Images showing the bits before they are all hidden:( The Ammo Boxes were Sprayed with Mr.MetalColor Stainless Steel. Turret Base with seat, the cushion was coloured dark green and gently weathered with Tamiya weathering powder/paste 'Sand'. Box edges chipped with Dark Iron. The Main Gun Breach component Turret Gearbox and commanders seat. Here is an update on the turret internals. Most of the 'innards' have been welded to the turret ring. Feel free to comment if you wish. The interior of the turret is now complete. The main issue was poorly fitting turret halves which necessitated a bit of filling with Vallejo white filler and some sanding. A couple of points of interest - The radio pack face was sprayed with buffable Dark Iron and when dry, I rubbed my finger over it to shine the protrusions. The white dials and small needles were painted and and then a drop of Krystal Clear added, which when dry gave me a nice glass face effect. The completed the turret. It was airbrushed with a base coat of Vallejo grey primer. A graded coat of dark brown was added to the shadow areas underneath with a gradual fade to the grey undercoat at the top highlight areas. A preshade of matt black was then applied around all of the edges and join lines. Heavily thinned dark yellow was then sprayed in 4 applications to build up the effect that I wanted. Once dried I brush washed the whole thing with a 'grime' clay wash and removed it in such a way to allow it to sit in the recesses and leave some dirt streaking. Chipping was then applied by hand using a teeny weeny (technical term) brush and some dark iron paint. The track pieces were airbrushed with buffable dark iron and when dry, the high spots were buffed. Rust pigment was brushed into the crevises (Ooo-err Missus):eek: The cable on the cable drum is just weathered fuse wire wrapped around. The whole lot was then dry brushed with Tamiya weathering light sand to highlight the edges. Coats of matt varnish were applied in different amounts to different areas to give a variation in 'Mattness' (I'm sure that's not a real word) I made some camo netting to scale and coloured it in desert shades. The retaining straps were made of lead wire which I rolled flat with a bottle of tamiya XF-1 and then shaped the straps around the netting and barrel. They were glued at the bottom with Gator Glue and painted in Dark Yellow. I think this adds a touch more realisms to the stark barrel. Comments welcome.....:cool:
  9. AFV Club IDF SHOT Centurion Mk5/1 1967 with a 105mm Gun (BUT! Guess Who? fitted the 20pdr instead) READ THE INSTRUCTIONS PROPERLY NEXT TIME - DUMMY! (Kit AF35159) The 'SPECIAL' parts comprise turned metal 20pdr & 105mm gun barrels ADDITIONAL ELEMENTS: AFV Club sets Mantlet cover 'A' AC35008 & Indy Track AF35102 I've had a load of the AFV Club Centurions for quite a while now and have wanted an excuse to get started. The Leicester Modellers Boxing Day Build Club this year has given me the opportunity to get this 2006 release started - a bit late! My choice of build for this time will be to use the upgraded 105mm gun barrel. I do have another of these and the 20pdr version will come later. The Horstmann suspension has an A & B set so watch how you fit them Also made a start on the lower hull which is extremely well molded and a great fit to the parts. Whilst not exactly on the rare list, with the advent of a host of new products being released, IDF Armour is starting to become more popular.
  10. Here's one of my rather rare builts of 1/35th scale military vehicles. In this case AFV Club's Sho't Kal, which is basically a british Centurion - amongst other things upgraded with an American Teledyne Continental Diesel engine that provided the tank with more than twice the range of the original petrol powered Centurions with their Meteor engines. All IDF Sho't tanks were upgraded from the Sho't Meteor to the Kal. Besides better range and reliabilty, the Continental engine was the same as used in the Magach (M48/60), also a major MBT of the Israeli Defense Force back in the late sixties and Seventies - with obvious advantages. Because of the kit's workable suspension I bought AFV's workable track links which are fine but do not hold together all that well. I think Friul tracks would have been the better choice. Other extras are the mantlet cover (AFV) and the commander figure (Legend) There's some strange lighting here - the turret is of course the same color as the rest.
  11. This was my project for the Vietnam II GB over in the Group Build section. Kit: 1/35 AFV Club Extras: AFV Club track links - kindly supplied by snapper_city Pegasus Camouflage netting Academy Allied and German Tank Supplies Set II AFV Club 20Pdr. Gun Ammo Paints: Humbrol and Revell Acrylics - Humbrol Spray can for the base colour - all other paints applied by hairy sticks. This was my first proper 1/35 AFV build - I practiced first on the old Tamiya Panzer Kampfwagen II Ausf.F/G kit in the Achtung Panzer GB earlier in the year.The WIP for this build can be found here. There are quite a few photos. In Country; Some close-ups: So thats my last completion for 2015. Roll on 2016s builds! I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this and all my other builds during the year - as Ive said before; none of them would be what they are without the advice, suggestions and support of fellow Britmodellers. Thank you. Happy New Year! Kind regards, Stix
  12. The Australian Army got involved in Vietnam from 1965 onwards but it wasn't until 1968 that they decided to make use of Centurion tanks. Once these tanks were deployed they were operated by the 1st Armoured Regiment of the Royal Australian Armoured Corps. Despite some concerns before being deployed the Centurions proved to be really good at operating in the jungles and paddy fields of Vietnam. Also, much to the surprise of some U.S. Units, the Australians found it was possible to repair even some fairly major combat damage, on the Centurion, while it was still in the field. The kit I have decided to build for this GB is AFV Club's Mk.5/1 Centurion of the RAAC. It is a rather nice kit that includes some etch, rubber tyres and a metal gun barrel. This will be my first, proper full sized 1/35 tank build, the only previous 1/35 kit I've built being Tamiya's Panzer Kampfwagen II Ausf. F/G. I won't be starting this build properly just yet as I'm trying to finish two Mk.I Spitfires for the BoB GB. Knowing me though I will probably end up starting some bits and pieces before properly getting started. The box art: The contents: ..........wow that looks like a lot of parts! I also picked up a Mantlet Cover as Centurions in Vietnam had them fitted: Over the next couple of days I'll post some closer up photos of the sprues. Kind regards, Stix
  13. Hi, does anyone by any chance know where to find drawings of the Centurion's side skirts in 1/72 scale? I have here Cromwell model's Sho't Kal Dalet in Resin and it comes without skirts but I want to make some from thin Evergreen plastic. regards Ingo
  14. Centurion Beach Armoured Recovery Vehicle, at the REME Museum. Pics thanks to Sleeperservice & Shermaniac.
  15. Centurion Armoured Recovery Vehicle Mk2, at the REME Museum. Pics thanks to Sleeperservice & Shermaniac.
  16. Now this might be an extreme shot in the dark.... But does anyone know which antenna was added to the turret of the Centurion tanks circa '59/'60, It was probably armour & tanks belonging to the Royal Scots Greys. The reason for asking is that my Dad was doing his National service with the REME at the time, Stationed at Fallingbostel, and he tells a story of a long weekend spent drilling holes in Centurion Turrets to take a new antenna for some urgent radio equipment update. Now the less qualified REME guys in the depot were on constant drill sharpening duty, were as the ones who had been around a bit got to spend hours trying not to get slung off the turret by the drill bit catching and spinning the drill and operator but not the bit. Apparently this job was so urgent that all the REME guys were allowed to go into mess in their dirty work gear, which didn't go down too well with a certain Royal Scots Greys junior officer, (yes, that one the Queen's 1st Cousin), who didn't want all these dirty/oily types in the mess, the REME's Senior officer on the job (also a dirty/oily type at the time) then told said junior officer to go forth and multiply and leave his men to get on with their break. I've got AFV club's mk5/2 Centurion kit to make, along with the Edaurd BigEd etches and Spade Ace metal tracks. I thought i might just pose the tank when its completed with a figure drilling a hole in the turret.
  17. So here is the finished 1:25 scale model of the Centurion mk.III British main battle tank. It has been built out of the box with no extras, apart from the camouflage netting around the barrel which I made myself. The paints used were as follows: Primer was Vallejo grey polyurethane acrylic. This was also used for all of the interior surfaces. It gives a lovely smooth and resilient surface for the following paints. The main overall colour was Tamiya Dark Yellow Matt XF-60. This was mixed about 40% paint with 60% Tamiya X-20 thinner. Panel line preshading was done with Tamiya XF-1 Matt Black and overhead light simulation presahding was done with Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown. Some weathering effects and shadow areas were done with Tamiya XF-49 Khaki. The matt finish was thinned Vallejo matt varnish. Chipping was hand painted with MrMetalColor MC24 Dark Iron. Exhaust and metal tool parts were also airbrushed with this paint as were the tracks and tow cables. Weathering and rusting was done with a combination of Rust and Sand pigments. Various Tamiya weathering master sets for were used for streaking, rusting and staining effects. Lighter colours from these sets were used for edge highlighting. Once the track pieces were buffed where the wheels ran and also where the locating lugs rubbed between the wheels, the pieces received a dunking in first rust, then sand pigments, with a good brush scrubbing between the two. The exhaust parts were treated in the same way. Although this was an old kit that I picked up from ebay for £30ukp, it went together reasonably well. There were plenty of moulding lines that needed scraping off before painting and the instructions had a couple of anomalies. The old decals were very yellow, so the markings for my choice of variant were spayed using a template that I cut out with a laser cutter, from a CAD drawing that I made. I learnt a lot from trying various weathering methods on this build and thoroughly enjoyed myself. As usual, and observations or comments are welcome. Enjoy the images.
  18. As part of our website we have loads of vehicle Walk-arounds http://leicestermodellers.weebly.com/its-for-real.html Come and take a look
  19. I made this one a few years ago for the dad of my then girlfriend. I almost got it right, only having forgotten to add the car engine they kept on the engine deck as an auxiliary power unit.. I had very little reference.. And some idea as to how much work went into the detailing..
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