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Found 10 results

  1. Good evening everyone. The de Havilland Sea Vixen is an aircraft of singular appearance is it not? You notice it. The sweep and curve of its geometry. Formed not only from the requirements of naval aviation but (covertly, one suspects) from those1950s fantasies about how fast and silver a technological future would look. It was the kind of aircraft Captain Scarlet would have trained on and was capable, if required, of protecting the Earth from UFO invasion. At least I think so. I'm going to build two of them partly for the aforementioned reasons, and partly as a way of celebrating the friendship and generosity to be found on this forum. (More on that in a bit.) For now though, posting this in full view means there's no bottling out. Choice of Subject Having wanted to build one these for a long while, I'd been collecting various bits and pieces and images without (as often happens) a definite subject in mind. Always liking a build to be rooted in a meaningful narrative of some kind, I was leafing through some of the entries in the Dorset Crashes site and noted that a FAW.1 (XN708, from 890 Sqn) had gone down in Lyme Bay on the night of 25th November, 1964, killing both crew: Lt Michael J.W. Durrant RN. & Lt Basil A.Last RN. We can sometimes be guilty of building things only to celebrate the notable or the heroic in conflict; in this case it seemed fitting to build something to note those who end uncelebrated in the footnotes of history as peacetime or training casualties. This is the only clearly identifiable shot I've found so far of XN708/R244, original date of photo unknown: Image credit: Imgaylard Brian Patterson has an excellent colour gallery of a sister aircraft here though that will doubtless prove highly useful as references. For the second choice, I'm (as frequently the case in matters of naval aviation) indebted to @Ex-FAAWAFU for drawing to my attention the powerful, nay provocative, black & white diagonal scheme of XJ481 when undertaking Martel trials: Image credit: Roger Winser This has not only the challenge of building a replacement nose to incorporate that camera housing and a Martel to scratch up (I knows there's a 1/72 resin one out there but think the fins are too thick) but a snazzy 'dazzle paint' work to do also, for which @Terry1954 has also kindly supplied some colour references. The Kits I'm going to modify both the venerable 1/72 Frog offering and use the High Planes kit, which has a FAW.1 option. I'd mentioned above that this build was in part a celebration of the generosity no be found on this forum. Let me start by detailing such matters here: The High Planes kit was sent to me some time ago by @Procopius. How gracious is that? Thank-you Edward for this kindness. As a young shaver on the forum, not long after joining I'd mused aloud in a thread about the absence of FAW.1s in 1/72 and been overwhelmed by a (characteristically) generous influx of references and diagrams from both @71chally and @canberra kid regarding the feasibility of modifying the Frog kit. The fruits of these discussions are posted here and I must reread them myself prior to commencing any work in this direction! If you've had a look at Brian Patterson's colour shots above you'll notice prominent in one of them is a Palouste starter. I never used to know about these until seeing @perdu resinate superb examples in his Buccaneer build. Not only that but again without saying anything he'd tucked some of his output away in a package he sent and so I'll be proud to use one of his Paloustes in this project. Thanks Bill! The High Planes kit first: As it says on the box: In fairness I see 'adjustment of parts required' on every kit I buy.... I haven't looked closely-enough at the canopy yet to make any decisions regarding suitablility: Some replacement Aries wheels (I'd forgotten I'd bought them) to replace the originals: The Frog File: Check out the crazy patterning all over the plastic. Weird.... That nose: Subject of much discussion with John and James on the original thread, as might be imagined.... How to '1 a '2: Picked this up dirt cheap of 5thletter bay many moons ago. Think that resin is the 'Final Touch' set (?) but no idea about the white metal provenance. Wheels and legs don't impress: The Airwaves stuff was in the Frog box when I bought it, honest guv: Vaguely possible one or two of those bits may prove of use but certainly not the grotty wingfold. Here's what's really going to offset a diorama - a beautifully perduced Palouste: The markings on both aircraft will be painted rather than decals, but thankfully I've the Model Alliance decal set for the Ark's air wing that I can snaffle the moonlit witches from for the 890 Sqn Vixen: I'm aware of multiple issues with correcting the Frog to a FAW.1, but the High Planes I believe is to be generally trusted in shape terms? (Please correct me if wrong on the latter point). There will of course need to be a wingfold involved somewhere but this has given me a pause for thought: the colour scheme of the Martel-tester is so good that the wings on that one will have to be fully extended to display this handsome plumage, so XN708 will be the one to get the folding treatment, though which kit do do which with (if you see what I mean)? The Frog is moulded with the break in the wings where the fold is so a natural candidate, yet one with such problems in its nose area that this really makes it a better candidate for (the unfolded) XJ481 viz. a totally new and angular schnozz. I'm sure that the High Planes kit can be 'persuaded' to fold so: High Planes = XN708/Palouste (wingfolded) Frog = XJ481/Martel (non-folded) Nearly forgot. XN708 will have the RR Avons visible. So I'll be building 1/72 Avons as well.... References As standard for me, along with contemporary photographs, will be working from original technical documentation, namely several thousand pages of these: I've all 4 volumes of the above, plus: - for the engine build. As the technical manuals are obviously for the FAW.2, help with that handful of specific differences such as canopy etc comes in the form of relevant sections from the FAW.1 manuals generously provided previously by John (@canberra kid). Who else? I'm hoping to have the current Anson build finished by the Autumn so if you've nothing planned for those long winter evenings you'd be very welcome to pull up a Palouste and keep me company here. Thanks for reading, as always. Tony
  2. " Things have become a little rougher, ugly and now we need a law enforcement unit capable of meeting the enemy on his own ground, and carrying enough fire power to get the job done." " Ladies and gentlemen, with great pleasure, i introduce ROBOCOP 2" The Old Man Hi fellow modellers. A few months ago i decided to get the 3d print files for Robocain from Robocop 2. The problem was i never actually had the time to start the project. With the current situation that the world is in, I have more time at home and i can finally get started. I know this project is going to take along time and i hope that you enjoy seeing my progress. The model will be in a 1/6 scale, which will make him over 40cm high ( go big or go home, i guess ). The printer i will be using is my trusty Creality Ender 3. The only things i have done is print a better parts cooling fan and change the board to make it quieter I know their are some other people in the forum that are doing the same build and cannot wait to share our problems, and solutions to those problems with each other. So my first pics The majority of the first things to print were the actual support structure and framing for this guy. Most of this you won't see but between that and the M3 bolts, he's built to last and that's a good thing in my household. So once the frame for the upper body is complete, you can then start to get some of the panels on. This is then gives you an idea of how your frame is and where trimming and straightening is required. The one downside to 3d printing is, if you don't get your settings dialled in, you will be sanding and sanding to remove the print lines. I suffered with this until i realised i had set my printer settings up wrong, so please ignore those nasty lines So up to this point, the build has been small to medium prints that only took between 1/2 hr to 2 hrs a piece. The first big print was the 2 half's of his upper chest armour. With a combined print of about 12hrs this was the first big and visible piece to be printed ( not including the head part ) The chest is 3 different parts and when i fitted them together they just didn't look right. Looking at pics online, it showed that the 3 pieces are one big piece. So i decided to glue them together and fill in the gap, which was the reason i think it looked wrong Once the upper body was done, i decided to move to the minigun and ram arm Once this part was done, i couldn't resist connecting it to the upper body and see how it looks. Oh btw its starting to get heavy lol Hope you have enjoyed this post and will post up when the next bit is done Stay Safe
  3. Two designs proposed in A 1952 RAE report “An Investigation into an Aircraft to Fly at a Mach Number of 2, Aero.2462” 3D printed at 1/72 scale, painted with acrylics decals from spares First up, looking like the results of a liaison between an EE Lightning and an F-104. Design with engines in the fuselage which they really didn’t fancy
  4. Please be kind. I’m firmly at the foot of this particular learning curve so am aware there is a lot could be improved. Sharing just in case folks might be interested rather than for critique I’ve been experimenting with laser cutting, 3D printing and digital design so decided to apply a bit of that to model making (in progress thread here Sharing the most recent output. Convair XP-92 in 1/72 scale. Parts modelled in Fusion 360, printed on a Creality Ender 3 in grey PLA. Assembled with isocyanate and painted with acrylics. Drawings thanks to @Space Ranger and decals kindly donated by @Pat C. Thank you both
  5. My contribution to this GB will be a T92 Howitzer Motor Carriage in 1/35 scale. For those not familiar with this tank, it was an prototype 240mm howitzer based on the M26 Pershing chassis. 5 where built in 1945 & it was planed to use them during the invasion of Japan but the war ended before they could see service. Two of them still remain today, one of them is on on display at the Detroit Arsenal museum & the other is currently disassembled into a scrapheap at a storage facility. So here is the "kit" I'll be using for my build... It has been a dream of mine to build a T92 HMC but unfortunately there are no model kits of it available, except for a tiny 1/144 scale resin one. So I'm going to scratch build nearly the entire thing with plastic card & 3D printed parts, save for the tracks which I'll be using a Bronco set for. I've made a start with designing the 3D printed parts & have thus far done the lower hull, suspension & wheels. It has taken me several weeks to get this far, so it might be awhile before I've finished all the 3D modelling. Because of this I'm having doubts about if I will be able to completely finish this build within the GB time limit. But I'll try my best & keep going till the end even if it takes a bit longer.
  6. Good afternoon chaps, I have recently purchased a 1/72 TSR.2 and am planing on doing a Whif Operational Strike aircraft. For this I plan on arming the aircraft with 2 of the WE.177Bs, apart a couple of resin sets (of which I would have to purchase 2), I have come across a set of 2 3d printed versions. See link: https://www.shapeways.com/product/UZR4HG7J7/we-177b-c-nuclear-weapon-bipack I wonder if anybody here has had any experience with the manufacturer? Kind regards, Ash
  7. First TX in 1/72? https://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10539 3D printed... Cheers / André
  8. The Knight Shuttle from The Expanse 150mm Printed Planes Original photo taken from The Expanse Wiki. The Expanse began life in the minds of two friends, and was originally going to be a game, with complex backstory and a huge universe created in great depth. It turned into a series of books under the pseudonym James S A Corey, and in recent years has been serialised by the SyFy channel for the first three seasons, after which Amazon Prime have taken up the banner, promising us season four in the new year (2019). With a new book in the series also hitting the virtual shelves in December 2018, it should be a good 2019 for fans of The Expanse. The Knight is a shuttle used by the crew of The Canterbury, an old colony ship converted into an Ice Hauler, transporting ice from Saturn's rings to its home base on the colonised asteroid Ceres, the largest known asteroid in our solar system at almost 1,000km in diameter. En route back to Ceres with a fresh crop of ice chunks, the Cant receives a distress call from a ship by the name of the Scopuli, which they're required by law to investigate, even though they're none too keen. A small crew take the leaky rust-bucket of a shuttle out to investigate, despite some fairly leaky seals rendering it a bit risky to travel for long periods without a space suit as a fall-back measure (which they do). What happens next triggers a huge upheaval in the human diaspora, affecting the Earthers, Dusters (Martian colonists), collectively known as the Inners, and the Belters, who are the mish-mash people of the Asteroid Belt, who came from many races and origins to work in space, and are the underdogs of the solar system with a huge chip on their shoulders for that reason. Most of the crew of the Knight then go on to be the main protagonists of the series, taking them through the middle of many of the tumultuous events that take place as a result of humanity finding the Protomolecule, and learning that we are not alone in the universe. Hopefully I've not given away any particularly egregious spoilers, but if you haven't read the books or watched the TV show, I would heartily recommend both. Reading the first book Leviathan Wakes will give you a head start on the first season of the TV show, which has a lot of exposition to go through, and can feel a bit like overload unless you're paying rapt attention. 3D Printing Firstly, a little background on 3D printing. This method of Rapid Prototyping (RP) has been around for some years now, and has steadily improved during that period, with the quality of the output improving and the cost of the printers falling all the time. The cheapest printers melt plastics and lay down thin layers upon a platform, and it is the thickness of these layers that dictates the quality of the printed part. The cheaper ones end up looking like they have been made from tiny Lego bricks, while the top-line printers are getting so good that the layers are almost invisible to the naked eye. Stereo-lithography is the other primary method, and it is this that PrintedPlanes use to create their models. It uses a vat of liquid photopolymer that as the name suggests cures when it is exposed to a strong light source. Each layer is created by shining a laser into the vat, curing the polymer and creating a layer. The build platform drops a fraction and the process begins again until you have a completed object. In order to support the part during and after fabrication, supports have to be engineered into the design, or your precious object that has taken hours to print could deform, or worse, collapse into a heap of semi-rigid goo. The finished article is removed from the liquid goo phase and drained of excess polymer, which is important, as large parts are printed hollow, so must have drain holes appropriately placed. They are also cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) during the drying period, as the polymer needs to cure more thoroughly before it is ready for the customer. The Kit This particular kit consists of only one part, so you could argue that it isn't really a kit, but I think it still deserves the title, as there is prep-work and you can add additional detail to it if you are so minded. It arrived cocooned in a roll of bubble-wrap inside a sturdy cardboard box, around a week after I had placed my order. Why does it take so long? Printing in high resolution can take many hours and even days for large, complicated prints, after which there's the cleaning and drying period. As long as you're ready for that waiting period in this impatient modern world, you'll be fine, and very happy with what arrives. On unwrapping the cocoon, the model is unveiled and has an overall pale cream finish, feeling slightly rubbery to the touch, and a little sticky in places (see the engine bells). The flexibility is due to the polymer needing more time to cure completely, and the stickiness is due to tiny quantities of uncured polymer leaking from drain holes on occasion. I now have three of these models (all from The Expanse), and they need a good clean with IPA to get rid of any stickiness, and to remove what I call the "dead skin". This is the polymer that was kind of cured due to its proximity to the laser, but not quite part of the model, so needs to be removed in order to get the best surface for painting. For smaller objects I put them in IPA in my ultrasonic cleaner, but for larger ones, a douse in IPA and scrub with an old toothbrush should do the trick. I use an old electric toothbrush for this, and if you're in an enclosed area, wear a suitable respirator to protect you from the fumes of the IPA. Once this is done, allow the part to dry for a few more days or weeks, until it feels stiff and unbending. It's easier to feel the difference than explain it, and you'll be able to tell when it is ready. When the model is completely ready for paint, I use a black primer by Alclad, as it has a suitable contrast with the polymer so you can see where you've painted pretty easily, and it sticks very well. I have the Canterbury in primer as I write this, and having rubbed it down once, I can confirm that there are very little in the way of irregularities in the surface, other than the small "pips" where the supports have been removed. The layers are very neatly arranged, with only fractional shifts that are easily covered by a light sanding and another coat of primer, and far superior to the plastic deposition method in my limited experience with other printing mediums. As to the supports, you can save a few shekels by removing them all yourself, or pay to have the external ones removed before it leaves them. Depending on what you choose to buy first, there may be some internal supports still in situ, and you can remove those quite easily with finger pressure, pliers, or a pair of nippers, cleaning up the pips as you go, or leaving them until they are more readily seen after the first coat of primer – you get a bit of snow blindness looking at the whiteness of the model, and they can be quite hard to see until you get a bit of colour on it. The Canterbury in its first-coat of primer after preparation (with a tiny Rocinante from another manufacturer that's not as good as it looks in this picture) Conclusion I have been using 3D printed parts increasingly for a few years in small ways, initially relying on the plastic deposition methods, which have almost always left a bit to be desired in the layer thickness. Having initially encountered stereo-lithography with the Cant from PrintedPlanes, I prefer this method at least until the layer thickness of the former can rival the quality of the liquid-goo-and-lasers method. Being able to say "liquid goo" is a bonus, but all joking aside, the clean-up process that I'll be undertaking with the Knight might be a bit messy, but it's infinitely preferable to endless rounds of priming and sanding, during which detail is bound to be lost. Going forward, I'm looking forward to PP widening their range yet further. If you look around their site you can see all manner of goodies from missiles to planes, cars and tanks in various scales, some of which may lend themselves to gaming, while others are suitable for modellers. If 3D printing hasn't yet come of age I would suggest that it's less than a birthday away, so if you want to lay your hands on models that are otherwise unavailable, there's no real reason why you shouldn't take the plunge now, as long as you familiarise yourself with the preparation process. Incidentally, while this review relates to the 150mm model of the Knight shuttle, you can also get a 100mm version for a lower price if you want to keep things compact and bijou. If size if no object I would incite you to pick up the 300mm model of the Rocinante – it's awesome! You can see a pic of the Roci and more pics of the Cant on my thread here. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. I teased a part of this project in my Eagle Transporter build thread, so although I am a way off finishing that one, and I will not be doing any more on this until that happens, I thought it might be fair to share a bit more. The actual 3D model of the ship began life as a personal project in 2006, and like most personal projects I kept tweaking it. Then stupidly I decided i would like a 3D print of it, so I spent ages making the model printable, and then spent a fortune getting it printed at approx 1/35 scale, might be more like 1/32 or 54mm (like my eagle transporter - it's not a real thing an I'm not going to get upset about the exact scale). I did post the visual of the ship model on this forum as part of the more general sci-fi/3d thread. So if you ever wondered what an overdraft looks like keep watching.......
  10. These look really nice, pricey but the detail is incredible. Scanned from real subjects wearing the kit I must say that they are some of the best I have seen. http://reedoak.com/ Dan
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