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  1. I've got two sets of 3D printed 1/72 wicker seats from Gaspatch Models, they look really nice, and the cushion is a separate piece. They come as two-pack, one with short backrest and the other with tall. So my question is, was there different purpose for the short seat, for instance for the gunner? Or was it just pilot's preference, or perhaps just what was available. I saw a photo of a Sopwith Camel cockpi - it probably was a replica- but it had a short version.
  2. Lloyd C.V Lukgraph 1/32 The model has been really pleasant to build. The woodgrain is Lukgraph's decals. I've added some minor details like the binoculars or the anemometer. The propeller has been laser-cut by my friend Michał Jakś and carved by me. Overall I'm quite happy with the result. I hope to see more Austro-Hungarian subjects coming from Lukgraph.
  3. Hi everybody, After recently completing my first ever scratch build I am jumping back into the deep end. The BE2c has long been a favourite of mine but has never been available as a 1/32 kit so the only option is to get stuck in and have a go at scratch building one. The version I want to model has a Royal Aircraft Factory 1a engine which is not available as an after market kit so that is where I shall start. The engine looks quite complicated so let's just see how far this goes, if nothing else the modelling Gods might take pity and give us a kit. Here is a picture from the front; Royal Aircraft Factory 1a V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Scary stuff! The crank case at least is just a box and the massive fly wheel is just a circle at the back. A few bits and bobs stuck together gives me this; RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr The mounting beams are left long for ease of handling and will be cut down once the frame is together. RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Not he most impressive work for sure but it's a start! I don't know the name for the tear drop shaped housing that the prop shaft goes into, whatever it is called I made with laminated 2mm styrene sheet cut and filed into shape. Handily this gave me a centre line for adding the bolt fixing channels. The bolts (correct number of!) were added by using a similar method to my riveting method. 2mm lengths of 0.5mm brass tube were cut and using a paintbrush were applied with Future floor wax. Nice and easy because it can be rolled into position. 20210811_224652 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Once dried super thin super glue is applied to each one and zapped with Zip Kicker. Hopefully this gives the look of them being part of the casting rather than separate parts stuck on. A quick lick of paint to see how it looks reveals a few blobs of CA glue that need to go but I quite like the overall look. 20210811_231525 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Cooling fins were added to by cutting tiny pieces of styrene. Gel super glue was added to the engine part and using tweezers the fins were added. Great care needed to be taken to hole the fins so the tweezers didn't touch the glue, not 100% successful but at least nothing pinged across the room. 20210812_193956 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Again, super thin super glue was run down each fin in the hope of making them look like part of a 1 piece casting. The main parts are just tacked together with a tiny blob of glue for ease of handling but it is beginning to look like an engine! I won't have any time for a few days so here it will stay for now. Thanks for watching, all comments, criticisms and advice gratefully received. Have a great weekend. Richie
  4. Morning all. Managed to wrap up this build which has been on the bench since early December! There's a full thread of what's been going on here- For those who've not been following it started life as the 'new' KP 1/72 kit, but had a lot of changes made during construction and various bits of metalwork and etched brass details added (struts are made from soldered brass for example) Cheers Paul
  5. Not realising the whole bunfight protocol our hero got stuck into a KP 1/72 DH5 as soon as he saw mention of a DH Cookup in one of Marko's threads (Sorry old fruit - promise it won't happen again) Anyway since the current Eindekker build was sitting in the cabinet waiting for paint to dry and I'm not getting any younger I cracked open the box and made a start. Overall impressions were pretty good initially. I've got a few of these KP boxes on the shelf and unlike some it doesn't have the prominent rib ridges that some have (For those of a certain age think the old Matchbox trench digger in reverse) The softish grey plastic is easy to work with even if many of the 'details' are rather heavy handed and needed refinement. First up though was sorting out the flying surfaces which needed a slight adjustment to outlines and a lot of sanding to get somewhere near acceptable thickness . . . . After much sanding (That well known village in the Cotswolds) we ended up with some useable parts that just needed the control surfaces removing and new control horns adding. The rather horrible looking cowls opening cowl was too small so needed enlarging as well as slots refining and new stiffeners added with 5though plastic card strips after everything was sanded (anyone spotted a theme here?) After that all the rigging holes were drilled and for once I managed to avoid breaking any 0.3 mm drills After a few evenings work I've now got a kit of parts that I'm reasonably happy with (Cowl stiffeners yet to be added in the above picture) Roden supplied a much nicer engine and wheels as well as a half decent Vickers (although it would be nice to have a Miniworld or Gaspatch one there are none easily available at the moment. If anyone has a spare laying around that they'd like to sell please get in touch) I added a few wrinkles to the fabric sides and new plastic tubular intakes. The prominent fuselage stitching is absent in the main and in it's place are a few more trenches ready to be filled Hey ho. Overall I really like the kit despite what I've said; it's an interesting prototype and would build into a sound looking DH5, but I just like to fiddle . . . . . Toodlepip Paul
  6. RAF BE2C 1/32 Lukgraph The journey is over and I have to admit I have enjoyed it thoroughly. The BE2 is an extremely interesting subject and the CDL , woodgrain and metal is something I simply love. I find the kit to be the best by Lukgraph so far. No issues and and an extremely enjoyable to build. Painted with AK RC, AK 3GEN, Gunze, Tamiya and other. Weathering with AK pencils and oils. The propeller is hand-carved and as always with help of Michał Jakś (laser cut outline) and the hub is by Proper Plane.
  7. And it’s done! After just over a year, a lot of plastic card, a Costa’s-worth of coffee stirrers and millions of tiny rivet balls I’ve finally decided that my Mk 1 Gun carrier is finished. It was a great fun project and I learned a lot. Everything is scratchbuilt apart from most of the figures. The large chap with the leather jerkin was scratchbuilt (well, his legs, arms and torso were) but the others are cheap knock-off resin figures. I tried to replicate a photo of “Darlington” cresting a small ridge while the top brass look on. I’m happy that I’ve pretty much captured the look although I shied away from covering the whole vehicle with quite as much kit as is shown in the photo. Painting was done using mainly Tamiya paints, with weathering being mostly oil paints with a little clay wash and a dab of pastel dust. I constructed it so that the upper hull can be removed to show the interior off. Things I’d like to improve next time…. Figures; there’s always room for improvement there. I’m very slowly getting better, but there still seems to be miles to go. Groundwork; this was my first attempt at painting grass and earth on a black-primed base and I’m not 100% convinced that this is better than using coloured static grass. I might try a hybrid approach next time. Foliage; my little bush is a bit sad, and the (real) cow parsley I used to represent real cow parsley isn’t particularly convincing I don’t think. Thanks to everyone who followed and provided brilliant advice, feedback and support during this extended build. The (12 page) WIP can be found here….. Mk1 gun carrier scratchbuild - Work in Progress - Armour - Britmodeller.com
  8. Hi folks…! Well the dust has thoroughly settled on my Pierce Arrow AA truck, and so it’s time to consider the next project. I had a bit of a palate-cleanser in the form of the Vickers gun crew that I bought to provide a decent machine gun to clone for the last scratchbuild. I stuck the two chaps and their weapon together and mounted them on a little round base made from a piece of insulation foam stuffed into an olive jar lid as a figure painting practice more than anything, and rather enjoyed it, though I still seem to be struggling to improve my figure painting skills. So the stash is empty and I admit that I can’t really get myself excited about kits – it needs to be another scratchbuild. Trawling the Landships II website, I came across this vehicle…. The mighty Mk1 gun carrier. Based loosely on a Mk1 tank, it was intended to be the first self-propelled gun, carrying either a 6” howitzer (as above) or a 60 pounder. The 60 pounder was too ferocious a weapon to fire in-situ, so had to be demounted for firing, but the howitzer could stay on board while it did its damage. Strategically the opportunity never really came up for these vehicles to fulfil their intended role, so they were converted into supply tanks, recovery vehicles and ad-hoc troop carriers it seems. Panzerart do a kit (a whole series of them covering all the variants in fact) but it’s very expensive, and pretty hard to get hold of. Also, being resin, not terribly appealing to me. I seem to have developed an allergic reaction to superglue, so too much of it during a modelling session and I sneeze for days and my eyes are streaming. This doesn’t promise an enjoyable build experience! It’s a beast of a vehicle, slab-sided and covered in rivets – yeah! So ripe for scratching! The Landships II site contains a good bit of background info and more importantly, an excellent and very detailed cardboard model template and instructions produced by Clifton W McCullough. He’s provided both the vehicle itself and the howitzer, and just building the cardboard model would be a considerable challenge and should produce an excellent and highly detailed model, including interior detail and engine – really impressive stuff. Of course I’ll tweak his cardboard instructions and template to get the thing constructed from plastic. I kind of have a kit after all with these excellent templates, so time to assemble the other necessary ingredients. I ordered 5 A3 sheets of 0.75mm plasticard plus a number of A4 sheets of 0.5mm and 0.2mm. The rivets on my last couple of projects went pretty well using “nail caviar” – small decorative balls intended to be glued onto one’s digits. I’ve got these in 0.6mm, 0.8mm and 1.0mm, but the 0.6mm ones are rather irregular in both size and shape. For the Pierce Arrow I used 0.8mm which are much more consistent, but really way too big when the finished model is compared to photos. A search on ebay for “0.4mm balls” came up with solder balls – ah-ha! I ordered some 0.2mm and 0.4mm. The 0.2mm are unbelievably tiny – more like dust than visible balls, so I don’t think I’ll have much use for these, and the 0.4mm are really the smallest I’ll consider for rivets. I’ll order some 0.6mm as well. The consistency of these solder balls seems to be absolute – 0.4mm really is 0.4mm. To go along with these, I ordered a bunch of drill bits – 0.15, 0.35, 0.7 and 0.9mm – 10 of each, as they’ll snap as soon as look at them. The idea is that the balls sit in/on holes slightly smaller than the balls’ diameter. A slosh of Tamiya extra thin creates a tiny crater, and they’re held in place that way. Talking of which, I also ordered a bottle of Tamiya airbrush cleaner, which I’m led to believe is exactly the same stuff as extra thin cement, but much cheaper. I inserted the template images into CAD software and re-scaled them up to 1/35 (the originals are intended to produce a 1/48 model), tracing over most of the major detail to get nice, sharp images. The parts were re-arranged to make best use of the A3/A4 size and they were printed out – here’s a typical sheet: As usual, these will be spray-mounted onto the plastic, drilled for rivets and cut out, and so it begins!
  9. Does anybody know if French decals for the CSM model exist? Would prefer to do the mfg country, as opposed to russian, serbian or other countries. Scalemates is a bust, and a general Google shows up reasonably simple schemes. So if all fails, I can mask roundels.
  10. Hallo After a short while I finished this FF 33 E. The kit was fair. Not good and not bad. The etched parts were a certain thing by itself. Read my WIP, and you learn more. Well, the rigging was not so difficult. It was just two mornings. After this model I jump in deep water. With my Su-27 K from Minibase. Happy modelling
  11. Hallo This is my Friedrichshafen FF 33 E in 1/48 from Techmod. Here I also have etched parts from Part. Now, I started today with this subject. Now, I am playing with the idea to use the etched parts also for rigging. The point is, that holes have to be made at all rigging parts. The other option is to work without etched parts in my already well proved version. See example on my Gotha G.1. On the right plastic part of the fuselage I have a detail. The opening for the front cabane strut is too big, and so I reduced it by filling it. Here I have to drill later on for the cooling piping. So far Happy modelling
  12. General question, if there are specifics please do share! Am I right in assuming the cylinders were cast iron/steel? Or aluminium with a steel sleeve? Heads and crankcase in aluminium?
  13. I started on some supply sledges. 1/72 scale, about 55 mm long scratch built. Now I need a Mk.IV tank to tow them.
  14. I bought a resin kit of Hedi. It seemed Ok compared to pictures. It is clearly based on parts from Emhar's A7V kit wich suits me well. I had seen that there were a couple of things that needed to be fixed. The doors should actually be flush with the hull sides and I could have let it pass but the hinges are placed incorrectly on one side of the body. I was impressed by the handles at the doors though. However, I discovered that the "turrets" in the corners are too low and I felt that it was too much work to trying to fix that. It was time to bring out some plastic card. Coming this far, everything felt wrong. Things do not fit together. Only one thing to do. Tear it apart. New sides are made. I didn't want to make new fronts so I had to splice in plastic instead. Now new roofs must be made. The "guillotine" is a great help in cutting multiple parts for the grilles in the roof. But things still don't fit so everything is torn apart and new fronts has to be made anyway. Now nothing will remain of that first attempt of the build. Time to tear apart the the other end and rebuild it.
  15. This is my effort to build Wingnut Wings’ post war F.2b. Of course it makes up into a beautiful model and is pretty straight forward, although I think next time I would add the engine firewall after fitting the cockpit. I used ezline for the rigging without any turnbuckles this time. I think I’m just about at my limit in terms of finish here, so would welcome suggestions on how to improve. Anyhow, on to the pics:
  16. Hi all - I have decided to start another 1/48 DVa. Having built several before, this time, I have gone with the Revell boxing, which is a re-box of the Eduard kit. Revell have moulded this kit in a very light grey and slightly brittle plastic. Reflecting upon the fact that a tightly cowled Albie hides all of its secrets, I decided to bite the bullet and tackle something that i've wanted to do for a while; an un-cowled DVa. The first thing to do, unsurprisingly, was cut off the kit cowls, and thin down the fuselage sidewalls. I sanded off all of the interior detail, and thinned down the interior of the nose section with a dremel: Now, the real challenge... how do deal with those curves, and build all of the distinctive formers? Having sanded the fuselage, it was now not simply a round symmetrical section that I could use. I also really didn't want to make up each frame painstakingly by hand. I decided that I would use my Silhouette Portrait cutter to cut the formers from thin plastic. That would also allow me to design the lightening holes and have them cut out cleanly. To do this, the first thing I did was roughly get the shape of each frame using thin plastic. Some of the shapes were going to be a bit 'odd', due to the way that the plastic had been sanded, creating shapes / contours that weren't quite oval (mainly at the point of the firewall, as you can see I needed a slightly odd shape here): This then allowed me to scan the shapes into the Silhouette drawing program, and trace out each shape. The appropriate details were then added: I then used the Shilhouette Portrait cutter to cut the shapes from 0.010" plastic. I had to use this plastic thickness as anything thicker would have been too hard to cut. This plastic was too thin in and of itself for each frame, so in order to provide some rigidity I cut two pieces for each frame and glued them together: I then had the frames I needed to create the main structural elements: Next was re-adding the structural detail in the fuselage halves: And here it all is, VERY roughly placed within the fuselage. It may need a couple of adjustments here and there, but I think it will all work. And proof the fuselage halves still come together... I now have the basis to commence the rest of the interior. Phew...! Happy to take comments, tips and feedback. Cheers again! BC
  17. Sopwith Pub RFC The kit is WNW. Scale 1/32. As usual a good kit, an instruction with some weird instruction steps. So I had to memorize it and built it straight way. The rigging was no problem at all, since we developed a good technique already. You can find all in the forum anyway. In summery it took me 2 months beside my job. Happy modelling
  18. The kit is WNW. Scale 1/32. As usual a good kit, an instruction with some weird instruction steps. So I had to memorize it and built it straight way. The rigging was no problem at all, since we developed a good technique already. You can find all in the forum anyway. In summery it took me 2 months beside my job. Happy modelling
  19. Ahem! after a false start of this thread in the wrong place (Sorry Mods) Here's a quick update on what I've been up to I bought a dual combo of Eduard's lovely Nieuport 17 and started one as my 'first' model, but after a few goofs I ended up using it as a test bed to get used to cleaning up plastic, painting and decaling before having a proper go at the DR1. Since the early Nieuport was sitting there mocking me I decided to have another go at one using the second kit. . . . I'll spare you the blow by blow commentary on these, but the struts and u/c are all scratch built from sanded brass rod and I added a few finer details to the cockpit (not that any will be seen) I beefed up the cylinders with some jewellery wire. Wing struts ahd the detail sanded off and were then subjected to a session with the sanding stick to get them thinner (they may be too thin so I'll need to go easy when rigging this one) Painting is all in acrylics (Vallejo air mainly) and I'm gradually learning how to fight the airbrush to do what I want. Enough rattle here are the pics Paul
  20. Hello all – here’s another completion just off the bench; a ‘What if” Fokker Dr.1 seaplane, based on the 1/48 Eduard Dr.1 kit. This one was just for a bit of fun (so apologies to those who aren’t fans of ‘what if’ subjects). I added floats, extended the cowl to fit a Oberursel Ur.III twin row rotary engine (from Small Stuff; this engine is a kit in itself), added a vertical stabiliser, added some cockpit details, and replaced the guns with some from Gaspatch. I also scratch built the beaching trolleys and trestles. The German naval lozenge is from Aviattic, and decals are from the Eduard kit and the spares box. Some in-progress pics (the full build log is here - https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=12812.0 ) This was an enjoyable little project, and looks rather unique in the display cabinet. Thanks for looking! Cheers, BC
  21. Hi, guys... It's been a while since I posted here on Britmodeller, so I thought you might like to see the latest addition to my collection. This is the wonderful Gotha G.IV kit from Wingnut Wings. It's a large kit when finished, with a wingspan of almost three feet, but like any other model, spend a little time and you'll likely end up with a good outcome. So, to begin with, I painted and assembled the fuselage floor, bulkheads and cockpit area. Everything you see in this first image comes from the kit and I especially liked the seatbelts, oxygen bottles and the instrument decals, all of which bring great reallism to the model. The floor was given an enamel undercoat of pale khaki, then overpainted using burnt sienna oil paint from the Cass Art range. I was very pleased with the wood effect on the floor and bulkheads. In this next photo, the framing around the cockpit has been added in and its rigging shows up well. The 'steering wheel' control mechanism is well produced, as are the integrally-moulded fuselage frames, although some of the cockpit areas in my kit had a lot of ejector pin marks. These were in tricky areas in some instances, but all were easily enough removed. The majority were on the right side of the fuselage, so had to be addressed, as they would have been very prominent if left unattended. I took this photo after the fuselage was closed up, and you can see some of the detail in the gunner/bomb-aimer's forward position including the bomb release mechanism and the oxygen bottle. Once I was happy with the internal areas of the fuselage, I moved on to building the engines, leaving one covered and the other without its engine panels in order to show the detail. The central section of the bottom wing was also painted up and the walkways painted metallic and then blackwashed to give a bit of a 'worn' look. I liked the fine detail on the radiator grills and the exhaust pipes came up very well with their grungy appearance; this was oil paint used again, and blackwashed. After varnishing the fuselage, the relevant decals were attached and the external fuselage rigging - which extends to the tail and connects with the control surfaces - was added on at this point and later tidied up when the elevators and rudder were attached. The few transparent pieces included in the kit are small, but are very clear and fit well. Some additional blackwashing was applied to both the panels and small fitments on the fuselage sides, and the engine cowlings. Moving on to the wings, both upper and lower surfaces were painted in the dark grey-blue, with the exception of the underside of the top wing, which like the engine covers, struts, wheel hubs and fuselage and nose panels, were left in the extremely palue blue shade, almost an off-white tone. Adhesive tape was added to cover the wing ribs after a whilte undercoat had been applied, thereafter being oversprayed in dark brown in a non-uniform manner before the tapes were removed. When this happened, the original white undercoat was again uncovered on the ribs, and these were later given an overspray in the relevant camouflage colour... ...which in turn, was a process that was helpful in drawing back any excess of the brown paint and also helped to remove the white and bring the ribs, generally speaking, back to the appropriate colour. I deliberately left them slightly 'untidy' in their appearance as I felt this gave a good final presentation. Once varnished, the national markings were applied. So, in the following image, you can see the extent of the wingspan with the lower wing sections now in situ; the cabane struts have also been attached. The Gotha's wings had noticeable dihedral and on such a large kit, you may think this would be difficult to effect properly, but the lower wings have the correct dihedral built into them and have quite a bit of 'play' as well, and the top wing, after securing the rather flimsy lower central section into place, rests easily on the cabane struts and engine frame struts without any additional support required at this stage. Now you can see that I have started to attach the interplane struts; I rigged the inner areas between the engines and fuselage first as these are the most difficult to get access to and some of the rigging crosses over other lengths of rigging diagonally and therefore, awkwardly... patience is definitely needed here, and possibly a leather mouthpiece to bite into if/when things don't go according to plan - you don't want to scare the neighbours with aggressive yelling, cursing and swearing at the top of your voice! The cabane struts and each section, moving gradually out towards the wing tips, were rigged in their entirety before moving on to the next. The struts themselves were easily inserted into their location holes due to the 'play' in the wings, and this flexibility was very much instrumental in making the whole rigging process much easier. I resisted all thoughts of turning the kit upside down to complete the rigging under the top wing, instead electing to use two blocks of upholstery foam to support the model while accessing these areas in order to attach the turnbuckles into the leading and trailing edge points. The larger block of foam, which stood about four inches tall, allowed me to tilt the model forward onto its nose, thus giving better access to the trailing edge. The thinner strip of foam was used to support the undercarriage and raise the front of the kit, thus giving better access to the leading edges. In the latter process, it's good to remember to position the tail against something solid in order to support the model and minimise the likelihood of it slipping off the foam, and this should be done before attaching the tail control surfaces. All of the above negates the requirement to move the model around as it takes on more and more weight and size, and also reduces the need, in my opinion, to go boring right through the upper wing to draw rigging through before secuing it. I have seen this done online and admire modellers who use this method, but I wouldn't have confidence to try that, and given the rarity and cost of obtaining the model nowadays, I feel my method is every bit as effective. The rigging was completed using elasticated thread and the turnbukles came from the excellent GasPatch range. These last few photos show the model in its final stages of construction. All control surfaces are attached and rigging finished; upper wing fuels tanks, MG mounts and the guns themselves, the bombsight and all external ordinance has been added, and only a space in the cabinet needs to be found! All enamel paints used were from the Humbrol range and markings largely from the WnW kit itself, although the 'Lori2' markings were taken from the Pheon decals after-market offering for this model. So, I hope you have enjoyed seeing the photos from my build. There is a more extensive build article which you can access here: https://imodeler.com/groups/imperial-german-air-service-luftwaffe-group-build-may-1st-1910-to-present-day/forum/topic/wnw-gotha-g-iv-1-32-scale/, and I've made a YouTube video which you may also find interesting, available to view here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQqvVuxKUyM. Thanks for looking in... ;-). Regards, Paul
  22. The Aviatik 30.40 was a prototype Austro-Hungarian interceptor from 1918 and this is my build of the Alliance Models 1/48th limited run kit. I have always thought this to be an attractive little aircraft especially with it's interesting two tone grey low-vis camouflage. There only being a few parts in the kit I was hoping for a straight forward build, but as is often the way with limited run kits there was a lot more work than there appeared to be at first glance. I added as much detail to the cockpit as I could based on photos from similar Aviatik aircraft from the period and as usual little of it can be seen now. Seat belts are from Eduard and a couple of generic dials were added to the instument panel. All the flying surfaces were sanded to remove the exaggerated rib detail and to thin the trailing edges. The distinctive washout on the ailerons was added by gently heating them and bending into shape. The engine was replaced by one I found in the spares box. With some additional wiring and plumbing although not 100% accurate it's passable, especially as it's mostly hidden behind the cowling. The struts supplied were rather thick and over sized so these were replaced with brass Strutz material, soldered where strength was required. The spoked wheels are Eduard items robbed from another kit and I drilled out the kit wheels to get the tyres. Not perfect but good enough. The propeller is made from wood veneers. After looking at the photos I realised it wasn't fixed which is why it looks a little crooked in some views. The paint was my own mix of Mr.Color paints. The hardest part of the build was trying to replicate the machined aluminium cowling and panels and I'm still not really happy with the way they turned out. As always critique and advice welcomed. Wayne.
  23. Hello everyone – this is my latest completion, the 1/48 Eduard Fokker Dr.1. The kit is painted in the markings of Ltn Hans Koerner, Jasta 19, May 1918. I added some detail to the cockpit, replaced the kit guns with items from Gaspatch, added the telescopic gunsight that Korner fitted to his machine, and shortened the undercarriage struts to correct the ‘sit’ of the model. The rest was out of box. The Fokker streaked camouflage was from Aviattic, and the personal markings from Pheon. This is a lovely little kit which presents minimal problems in construction (save those that were self induced), and was a joy to build. For the build log, see here – https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13042.0 Thanks for looking, and feedback always welcomed! Cheers, BC
  24. I guess it comes as no surprise that I've started with the cockpit. I simply love the wicker seats which come with the kit I think they look superb. Everything falls in its place without any problems so far.
  25. I have been working on the Eduard 1/72 Fokker D.VII for a few days on a variant made by Ostdeutsche Albatros Werke (OAW). Very nice little kit, but the Wingnut Wings 1/32 kit guide is a great help in building, which is extremely informative! (Unfortunately, I don't have the the WnW kit, but it can be downloaded from their website.) There has been no problem with the model so far. What I added is part of the trunk’s wire stiffening, which is also visible in the cabin, as well as the visible part of the metal frame structure. It will be the dragon machine, Wilhelm Leusch's Fokker.
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