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  1. Hi all, just completed adding all the little sticky out bits on the Belkits Fabia rally car. It’s OOB as the #1 car of Juho Hanninen and Mikko Markkula on the 2012 Czech Barum Rally Zlin. The kit goes together very well; the main challenges are the belts (my first such effort) and the tiny etch pieces like the fasteners on the wings. Paint is Halfords Ford Polar White over their White primer (over white plastic - so easy for seeing where you’ve done)! Detail painting in various Tamiya acrylics with MrLevelling Thinners. Decals are great and supply all the livery, the green is all by decal except where I had to mix up some touch ups for cracks or gaps (by me). The guy who put the wraps on for this rally got the sack as there are some wrinkles on the curves of the wings. Next time I’d be tempted to spray the green if I could get a match, but the decals have an excellent metallic finish. The cockpit work is now virtually invisible, especially as this crew had chrome film on the tailgate. I did take some photos though. Similarly the effort underneath is largely hidden by skid plates, though less so than if you used Belkits gravel transkit! Before: After. Note it’s the other direction 🤦🏼‍♂️ A last few shots to round up. I have a few more Belkits in the stash and if as good as this they’ll be good fun. I think this angle looks purposeful: Cheers All, Will
  2. Here is my 1/24 Audi Quattro, built to represent the car raced by Michèle Mouton with co-driver Fabrizia Pons in the 1981 Portugal Rally. This is the Italeri kit, which is a rebox of the old Esci kit. It is woefully inaccurate because it uses too many parts from the road version that aren't correct for the rally version. Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it), I had ruined the body of a Tamiya Audi Quattro Rally kit a while back, so I was able to use the following parts from that kit to make this one more accurate: - Fender flares - Front bumper - Exhaust - Side mirrors - Antenna mount - Steering Wheel - Rear window (the Italeri window had a hole in it for the rear wiper, which the rally car didn't have) I also used the tires from the Tamiya kit simply because they were better than Italeri's. The bonnet pins are from D.A.B. Models, and I scratch-built the mounts for the night stage lights. I painted the body using Tamiya lacquers, including a custom mix for the brown portions of the Audi Sport livery, and LP-50 for the red on the bonnet. Reji decals make up the rest of the livery and all other markings. I used Gravity 2K for the clear coat. This was a labour of love, and it took me the better part of a year to complete because I worked on it off and on between other projects. Because I used all those Tamiya parts, I suppose this is technically my first kitbash! Questions, comments, and especially critiques are most welcome. -Justin
  3. I probably won't get into this fully until next year as I think I'll struggle to get it fully painted before winter hits. But hopefully I can make some good progress with the paint so I'll be about ready to build when the time comes rather than having to wait until I can spray the paint on. This one is Tamiya's Monte Carlo Alpine A110 kits which seems to get released in small numbers every few years. It's one of those kits which on first glance doesn't appear to have much to it, but looking at the instructions (and some other builds on here) I'm pretty certain it will be quite a detailed car once done. I've not decided whether to do the #22 or #28 car yet, still got a bit of time to decide on that. But to start with, here's the contents: As I said, it doesn't look much with just the two sprues, plus clear, chrome and bodyshell. But in true Tamiya style those sprues have made good use of the real estate available with quite a few parts on them. First job has been to get primer on the wheels and bumpers as they will be sprayed silver - if I go with the Silver Leaf that has quite a long curing time so I want that to have as much time as possible before the weather turns. No photo as it's only the pieces in primer. I've also removed the rear grilles from the chrome sprue. The instructions would have you paint the body colour in the grooves between the chrome grille bars (yeah, right!, like that's going to happen with a rattle can) so I've stripped the chrome. These will be painted body colour then when the time comes I plan to go over the grille bars with BMF - I'm hoping this will be much the easier method. And then it was onto the body, Last weekend I gave it a quick blow over with primer just so that any mould lines would show up better. There are faint lines which run along the top of the front and rear wings, then as is typical much stronger lines in the hard to reach places such as at the back of the windows and around the front of the body which were a particular pain to sand without losing any detail. This is the end result after sanding the lines back: Today it got put into primer. No mould lines reappearing apart from a very faint bit which should be behind the bumper, and no new lines appeared either so at this stage I'm quite happy with how it turned out. That's it for now, I'd love to make some more progress but next weekend I'm likely to be focussing more on the 300SL I think as that one NEEDS to be painted before winter. Thanks for looking.
  4. I have finally time come back to bench. Now I have little bit more time for my hobby. Lancia S4 is soon in RFI section, so I can start new project. Short history Alpine was manufacturing this car between 1963-1977 and variety of engines was used. Tamiya kit contains decals for Monte Carlo rally -71 car, but I think I will make my build for another race. There are already fine examples in this forum builds from this race. I am still looking options, first I was thinking option for Corsica, but -71 event was cancelled and if I am correct next event car had wider body. So I am still thinking options. Car was raced in Tour de France also. And here is link to one option for my build: 1969 Tour de France car And in 1968 A110 was raced in Le Mans. Maybe I choose between these options. So below are mandatory pictures from parts. I would say this is typical Tamiya. Engine looks good and with small detailing it's possible make fine model. Only thing I can complain is these chrome parts. I think I just remove chrome and get those painted. Good think is that wheels don't have chrome.
  5. Hi and welcome to the build thread for my third model. Its a Toyota Celica GT four 165. To be more precise i'm building the 1990 safari rally wining car sponsored by rep sol as a challenge to myself to improve the quality of both my decal work and white paint finishes. The kit is made by Aoshima /beemax and so far I have to say my initial impression is that there is lots of fine details and the quality of the mouldings appear to be top notch. I dry assembled a lot of the kit in two sections looking for any potential problems and apart from the roll cage being a potential pain in the neck if the c7r I built as my first project was anything to go by I could only find two areas which I predict could cause me a few headaches. The first is the suspension as I found it akward to line it up correctly however when I finally got it right it seemed like a matter of alignment. The other potential issue is some of the holes are a snug fit before I add paint in to the mix but again i think this wont be to bad of an issue. My current plan is to drill out any of the peg slots if I cant get the parts to fit correctly as a last resort. I am considering drilling out the brake disks with my new pin vice kit they wont be to visible should I goof it up and it will be good practice for when I build my next bike kit should I match the drill bit to the existing indents ? Would I be better of to do this before or after I have painted them in the base coat? Had I thought of it I would of taken some pictures of the sprews before I started but I didn't think to so here are some pictures of the parts I have primed so far. I have had my first covid jab today and its knocked me for six so i haven't been able to get as much done as i would like to have done.
  6. I originally started this build way back when in the Nordic GB, in a time before lockdown! Original thread here. One of three unfinished GBs this year I'm hoping to get finished (alongside the ongoing ones and Interceptor GB I want to start!) I've slowly been making progress mistakes since, and here are a few pics, it's been a bit of a pig getting together. Underside all built up - I did unfortunately snap one of the suspension components (anti-roll bar?). Interior is mainly built up. The kit came with some (very thin) plastic material to use for the seatbelts but I just couldn't get along with it (kept tearing whilst cutting with a knife) and was somewhat translucent when I finally managed to get a strip. The aftermarket kit came with some ribbon but I couldn't get along with that either (and it was too short to match up to the guide sizes in the instructions). In the end I made up some belts out of my staple - a bit of kitchen tin foil, lined each side with masking tape, sliced to size and painted up (white primer over the yellow tape, then a coat of red). The nice thing about the foil method is when bent it does tend to hold it's shape. The kit supplied PE was a bit thin, but I had an aftermarket kit so used those parts instead (original buckles getting a second life in my Renault 5 build), unfortunately when looking back at the zoomed in photos I can see some of my trimming on the buckle ends could have been better! The aftermarket PE also didn't neatly fit onto the mounting points on the belt ends on the roll cage so they're slightly offset. The upper shell also decided to be a complete pain. The forming moulds seemed to have been slightly misaligned leaving some rather nasty seam lines along the bonnet which I cleaned up, however I'm worried the bits around the light fittings might give me some grief later on. They obviously reused the moulds from another version of the kit and blanked out the bonnet vents but left some raise lines around where they were. I smoothed it out but it was still kind of visible when the the undercoat then white coats went on but hopefully less noticeable in the decals are added. My other woes were compounded by me trying to take a 'shortcut' and use a rattle can for the blue and going a bit heavy. I've sanded off the worst of the lumpy bits and will need to give it another coat - though planning on doing that with the airbrush this time! The bleeds aren't too much of an issue - I need to mask up and paint the black roof rails / window surrounds and there's some multi-coloured diagonal strip decals that cover across the door lines. I just hope they line up well! I also noticed (after painting) that the wing mirrors have some rather nasty injection pin marks in them, I'm never sure why but I seem to find this a common issue with car kits which I really can't understand! Anyhow let's hope the rest of the build goes a bit better!
  7. With the Challenger completed, it's time to move onto the next project. First in the set of "cars which share a name-and-not-much-else with cars I've owned", this will be Belkits' Fiesta S2000, which I believe is only the second kit they made. Of course, after I bought this Belkits released their newer Fiesta with the Aston-style grille which would have been much nearer mine, but this will be close enough - after all being a rally car it's never going to be the same as a 1-litre supermini. Unlike @pau10wen's excellent ongoing project, this is going to be pretty much out of the box so I hope you won't try to compare the two too much - I'm not sure mine will withstand that comparison! The first set of pictures are going to seem a bit repetitive as I've only really got the paint on the body so far, so apologies for the plethora of white Fiesta bodies coming up. I had to have a couple of goes at cleaing up the body, as the first application of primer highlighted some bits of seam that I hadn't got sanded right down, plus some other sharp edges. But once that was done, the white plastic had a nice coating of white Halfords primer. After that, it was out with the Appliance White having sanded the body down with 2000grit sandpaper. What with the chassis also being white, and trying to get a good covering inside as well as out not to mention all the other body parts which also needed painting, I near enough used a whole 300ml can on just this car. And the picture barely looks any different. With the paint dried, yesterday I ran some dark grey wash into the panel lines to bring them out a bit using blu-tak as a dam where I didn't want it to run. Hopefully this is as bad as the body will look. And then today I got some 4000 grit Micromesh sheet onto those panel lines to get rid of the overwash. While it's cleaned up the edges quite nicely, unfortunately to my eyes it's also made the panel lines look a bit too dark. I think tomorrow I'll give them a run over with some white gloss paint to dial down the darkness a bit. What with cleaning up the body and washing two lines ont he boot which I missed, I haven't really got started on construction yet. But my feeling is that it will be worth getting the body done first (including decalling) so that the clearcoat gets time to dry, Thanks for looking, even if it has just been white Fiesta after white Fiesta to start this thread.
  8. Dipped in and out of this model over the last six months. Now working at home so took the opportunity to finish. First rally car and first time creating a semi-diorama - quite happy with the results. Decals were pretty fragile so took a while and a few tears here and there! Used the following items for the car: Hasegawa 1:24 Lancia Stratos HF '1977 Safari Rally Eduard 1:24 Red Sabelt harnesses Additional windscreen and side windows Studio 27 detail up set A few images pre-rally with weathering only! Thanks for looking :-)
  9. Hi all, Here's the kit I'm going to build to represent the year of my birth... The Stratos was first introduced in 1974 but 1975 was the first full year it competed in. The car I'm building is the "Red Chardonnet" one on the box art, that won the Tour de Corse Rallye (Corsia Rally) in 1975. Chardonnet was the name of the privateer team and the car was driven by Bernard Darniche with co-driver Alain Mahé. I believe Chardonnet also had a second, blue car that year as well. Hopefully it won't be a difficult build in terms of large decals / complicated colour schemes.
  10. I am doing a Ford Fiesta of the Paraguayan driver Augusto Bestard, which I had the pleasure of seeing in person in Erechim, in the year 2015. He competed for the South American stage of that year. This is the car: He is a Ford Fiesta R5, category below the WRC. I'm going to use a Fiesta WRC from Belkits, it's not the same car because WRCs are different from the R5 in some aspects of the body, but since I live in Brazil, buying a transkit is practically the price of a new kit (and the Two together gets really heavy on price), so sadly he'd been left with those differences. The belkits kit comes with asphalt wheels, so for this I'm going to use the wheels of the Citroen Xsara WRC from Heller, making some small adjustments to fit. It will look like this: Well, paint did all through masks, the decals will be customized, printed by a supplier here from Brazil. First layer was white throughout the car, then masks to red, and finally the black color, below some photos of the process: thanks!!!
  11. My first Diorama, Rally Erechim 2015, Skoda Fabia S2000, driver: Gustavo Saba. Ps: don't have the crew inside the car yet.
  12. Time for the build of a kit that's been sat staring at me from the pile for ages, Tamiya's Toyota TRD86. I picked this up last year at a bargain price online. I'm personally a big fan of the GT86/BRZ twins. They have to be among the very few modern cars I would happily splash my own cash on. Proper RWD drivers cars with skinny tyres and just enough characterful boxer power to entertain. TRD took this concept a little further with their factory spec rally car, the TRD86 which in Gazoo Racing colours is the subject of this kit......... I didn't get any pictures of the sprues but suffice to say this is yet another fine example of Tamiya's art, perfectly moulded with a colourful decal sheet which requires minimal painting of the shell beyond the base colour and even pre-cut self adhesive window masks. So, on with the build. First off, the floor pan received a coat of Halfords grey primer followed by the same company's Toyota Tyrol Silver. Some masking later saw various areas painted in satin black with titanium for heat shields...... Next up, the rear suspension and differential assembly. Very minimal assembly was required before being painted in satin black with the diff cover picked out in silver. The rear brakes were then painted in various metallic shades before being added with poly caps hidden within the hubs....... The exhaust assembly followed, being made from just 2 parts, plus the tips which will be added later in the build...... To finish this first post, the above assemblies were brought together along with the prop shaft....... That's it for now, next up will the be front end.
  13. Ok so as teased and subsequently chosen in my Delta WIP, I bring you the Build/Review of the ModellingMaster Transkit for the Hasegawa Ferrari 328 GTB/GTS. The Transkit is to build the Ferrari 308 GTB Group 4 rally car built by Michelotto and challenged mainly by the Pozzi team through 1981 to 1983. And by other teams and privateer's afterward. The Car was transferred into Group B for 1983 like many other Group 4 cars. However it fell foul of the new classes and regulations, namely the ones regarding wheel width. The new Group B classes regulated the maximum width of the wheel depending on the class on which the car competed in. The classes were divided by the engine capacity. The other regulation change for the new class was that bolt on style over fenders were disallowed unless homologated on all 200 production cars. Seeing as the Ferrari was originally homologated into Group 4 where they were allowed. The base car was the standard 308 which didn't feature them. This didn't really affect the cars too much as like previously stated they couldn't use the wider wheels. The final regulation that hit the Group B version was that the Michelotto built cars featured the new 4v heads. Another thing that was lost. However to compensate the new 308 Quattrovalvole was homologated into Group B to remedy this. History lesson over and now back to the transkit. There are 2 versions available to order from ModellingMaster. Website here: http://modellingmaster.com/lang/ru/ferrari-308-gr4-rally/ Version 1 is the one I have here, which is the red and blue Pioneer livery used mainly on the Monte Carlo and Tour de Corse rallies of 1982. Version 2 is the all blue Pioneer livery which ran on many ERC events, but the one featured on the decal sheet is for the Tour de France Automobile of 1982 and features different wheels to version 1. As usual I've collected many reference pics of the car on the specific event I plan on building. Which to clarify is the 1982 Tour de Corse. I've created a folder on my phone with all the pics I've come across in. I've also downloaded all the build and finished pics from the development build over on Automotive forums here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1069713 To use to supplement the instructions. Right lets start shall we. Firstly this is the box you get. Nice and sturdy and will definitely survive shipping and 'handling' Upon opening the box you are presented with this: I will state that I had a fettle of the body shell when I first got the set a couple years back, and so the thin film in the windows has been removed as well as the braces that help support the rear opening for the engine bay. So lets unpack everything shall we First you're presented with a full colour painting and decal placement chart and the instructions. The instructions themselves are stapled in the corner and fold out like so: Now I'm not a fan of this type of instruction. It takes up a larger than necessary space when laid out flat like I have here. And if the pages are folded over each other then it is quite easy to lose track of which side to go next. I found myself confused a couple of times when reading through, familiarising myself with the build sequence. The final thing that lets the instructions down is that aside from the odd missing arrow, the printer used was clearly running low on ink and as such a lot of the diagrams are hard to follow. A few thorough readings should have everything cleared up however, so it is only a minor grievance. On the back of the instructions is the parts list: Now the only addition I would make to this is to label any multiple parts with the amount you should get in the set. Moving onto the most important bit. The Resin. And boy do you get a lot: Yes it is all resin. Most parts are cast in a white resin that looks very much like plastic, even under close examination. There ae some minimal parts cast in the usual beige stuff. Now I have another couple of ModellingMaster Transkits. The first being all of the classic beige resin and one I brought after this one being all of the white stuff. So obviously I caught the transition lol. The only problem with the white resin is it's hard to distinguish between it and the white plastic of the kit once parts are off the sprues. Not a major problem for me as I will be working in small sections with few parts at a time. But something to keep in mind. So lets take a closer look at what you really get. First up is the clear parts for the rear side windows and lights: Next is some engine parts, rollcage, louvers and the auxiliary lights: Here we have the seats, rear bumper and the main lights in the popped up position (you also get the option to have the lights down): The wheels are copies of the Hasegawa Lancia Stratos wheels with correct Michelin slick racing tyres. You also get a spare with the centre bore and wheel nuts drilled out. In this bag is the bonnet, engine cover, front end, front lamp pod and the rear chassis supports: We also have the body itself and the Chassis: The decals are spread over 2 sheets. Presumably one is common to the 2 versions available. [/url] And up close: Finally you get a nice small fret of Photoetch to compliment the build: So all in all it looks to be a very nice and detailed transkit, and you should end up with a very nice model at the end of it. The Transkit is still available to my knowledge and is made to order. After this build and when money permits I fully intend to purchase the second version. The next update will be the first steps of my build and I'm hoping to continue the step by step approach. I will be taking my time with it as it's my first time using resin on such a large scale. Wish me luck TTFN Ashley.
  14. Right ok so as some of you may know I posted a topic in the discussion area about removing old decals as I wanted to update an old build. Well this is said build. Built a number of years ago and I've never been happy with the result. For a start this is the Revell boxing of the Hasegawa kit. Now whilst this rebox is better that the other Revell reboxes because it includes the metal antenna and the mudflap material, it is also majorly flawed in that the scheme depicted by the decals is for the 1983 Acropolis rally. 1. is doesn't include the Rothmans rally sponser on the plates and 2. the kit is tarmac spec not gravel. I was also not happy with my finish on the kit as the decals needed a bit of fettling on the front curves and inevitably tore and I ended up with areas were the white of the body showed through. In an attempt to incorporate this into the model I proceeded to chip away other areas of the decals to suggest stone chips. But I neglected to weather the kit so the effect wasn't great. Plus still it was in tarmac spec with slick tyres and that just wasn't right. So I've always known I was to eventually strip this kit but I didn't have any interesting decals to update it with. Until recently when I got these: It's a Jolly Club car for the 1983 Tour de Corse but is interesting for not having the typical Jolly Club green and orange striping. So I've proceeded to strip down the kit. I used watered down brake fluid to remove the decals and it also peeled the black enamel paint on the window frames. However is didn't touch the Humbrol spray I used on the body lol. There are a couple of chips in the paint around the front grill but as the plastic is white underneath it isn't noticeable. I'll also be adding the Hasegawa etch set to the kit seeing as Hannants was selling them at £3.20 and I needed 7 sets pmsl. I'll also need to convert the kit to Evo1 spec as Hasegawa only tooled the evo2 engine TTFN Ashley.
  15. Well she's finished save for a couple of small details. WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987216-ford-escort-rs-cosworth-group-a-rally/ Kit was Tamiya's Michelin Pilot version with Shunko decals to build the Monte Carlo 1993 car. Slight troubles with the decals mainly on the bumper corners but from a distance it looks good. Will weather in the future when those skills have been honed a bit more. Anywho pics Ahoy: Thanks for looking and to those that have followed the build. As always comments are always welcome lol TTFN Ashley.
  16. So I'm back again with a more focused modelling interest this time so hopefully no more stalled builds haha. Right onwards we go. The kit is as the title suggests: I got this as part of a large collection I brought earlier this year. The kit included thus: yes that is a Riko tube of glue lol and a renaissance WRC transkit for Didier Auriol's 1999 car. The reason for the transkit is as follows: However though I would love to build a WRC spec escort, I don't find Auriol's livery exciting and would much prefer either of the Factory one's. So I decided to treat this elderly kit to a shiny new decals sheet courtesy of Shunko Models: So onto the building process. Firstly I am prepping the body shell for painting and decaling whilst I finish another kit. This is how the body looks before priming, with all the parts attached: The Whaletail spoiler is only held on with bluetac to allow the central support to be glued in place. Of interest is that the no.6 car of Francois Delecour has only one sideview mirror whereas Miki Biasion's no.2 car had both mirrors. Can you tell which I'm building haha. I'm building the Monte Carlo 1993 car as I have a few others to build from this event. (Celica and Lancer, if I could find decals to make Sainz's Delta it would complete the set lol) I have also prepared all the parts that will end up white, like the chassis and rollcage etc. Hopefully progress wont be too slow lol TTFN
  17. Hello, this is my Subaru Impreza 2001 of the pilot Richard Burns, I had problems with the decals, so I had to repaint some of them. At the end it was good.
  18. Tamiya Peugeot 206 WRC, the third kit of year. a little problems, but the end result was very good. thanks!!
  19. My current build so far Still needs a little touching up in places.
  20. Heller Citroen WRC 2010 I thought that as the weather has taken a turn for the worse and that we have rally GB coming up that this car should fit the bill First off is the box shot the decal sheet looks very comprehensive good news aswell i have made a start by cutting out the vents and things like that as they were all moulded in, there a little rough at the moment i would like a little bit of help from some fellow modellers though as i have never done a heller kit before so i dont know how there decals deal with gloss over them also i would like recommendations about the blue paint to use, because i was going to use the same blue i used for the redbull rb6 i finished a while ago but i dont know if that might be a tad dark so im stuck with tamiya ts 51 or ts 15
  21. Happy to say the Lancia 037 is now complete, The kit itself is not bad, however if i do another i will be purchasing the hasegawa, this is still a nicely detailed kit from revell. as some may have seen in the WIP, i have made a few modifications to the kit, Made my own rear grill and air vent grills, Cut the rear bodywork out to have the engine on show and a little engine detail. as always room for improvement. Thanks for looking Sam
  22. Hi Guys! Went a bit Lancia crazy this christmas and from the other half unwrapped 3 Lancia kits: Delta Stratos 037 Currently working on the Stratos which is near completion but i am going to do a WIP on this the 037. Here's a sprue shot of the kit which is a Hasegawa re boxing under Revell. I wont be using the martini decals so if anyone would like to buy them please PM me.
  23. Hi Everyone, Just finished this: the 1/24 Lancia Stratos by Hasegawa. I decided to build it as a kind of privateer car that would compete in the historic rallys and not a scale replica of a certain real rally car. Hope you like, Sam
  24. Ford Fiesta RS WRC 1:32nd scale Airfix In 2011, the FIA brought in a new set of Regulations for the World Rally Championship (WRC). Chief among these changes were the rules regarding the cars themselves. The previous Super 2000 category was scraped and the 2.0 litre engines were replaced by smaller 1.6 ltr units. The power plants would still be turbocharged and restrictors fitted to the air intake system would limit power to around 300 BHP. This power would be transmitted through a permanent 4-wheel drive, 6-speed sequential transmission and would propel the cars from 0-60 in around 3 seconds, on any type of surface. Ford have had a long association with the WRC and with the new rule changes, they chose to enter a new car. The Focus had been their challenger since 1999 and it was a very popular vehicle on the stages. Over the years, it was driven by the likes of Colin McRae, Carlos Sainz, Markko Martin, Marcus Gronholm, Mikko Hirvonen and more recently, Jari-Matti Latvala. For the 2011 season, Ford debuted the Fiesta RS WRC (RS standing for Rallye Sport). The cars were prepared and run by Malcolm Wilsons M-Sport outfit. Aside from the factory team, the cars were also supplied to a good number of smaller outfits and privateer teams. The kit Airfix have produced many car kits in the past and perhaps the most well known are their range of classic 1/32nd scale automobiles. After Hornbys purchase of the company in 2006, Airfix once again returned to this scale, with the release of a couple of modern Sports Car racers (the Aston Martin DBR9 and the Jaguar XKR GT3). They have now entered the WRC arena with the release of the 2012 Ford Fiesta RS WRC rally car. The kit arrives in the now familiar modern Airfix, top opening, red box. Adorning the box lid is a very attractive illustration of Petter Solbergs Fiesta, at speed, on a stage of the Monte Carlo rally. When we open the box, we are greeted with 3 sprues of grey styrene parts, a separately bagged sprue of clear pieces and a one piece body shell, moulded in white. An 8 page instruction sheet is supplied, which features clear assembly steps, with colour call-outs for Humbrol paints, along the way. The paint and decal guide is illustrated with some very nice digital images of the WRC Fiesta. Construction begins with the chassis. The lower monocoque is a 1 piece moulding, which features some conservative detailing on the underside (sump and transmission guards, plus some fine riveting for example).On the reverse side, is attached a single piece interior floor moulding, which has a nice rendition of the pressed metal floor pans, as well as some electrical boxes and cabling, plus the spare wheel well moulded into it. Each corner of the chassis receives its own wheel arch liner and once they are set in place, the suspension parts can be added. These are simple 2 piece assemblies, comprising of a lower wishbone (which has part of the hub moulded in situ), to which you cement a shock absorber/coil spring unit. The sprue attachment points on these shock parts are quite heavy, so some care is required in their removal. To prevent breakage, I would suggest using a fine razor saw, rather than clippers. With the suspenion parts in place, the next order of business is the wheels and tyres. As is common for Airfix automobiles, the tyres are styrene, rather than vinyl or rubber and they are moulded integrally with the O.Z. Rally rims. Of course, one advantage to this, is the fact that you can file flat spots on the bottom of the tyres, to give the car a more convincing sit. The inside sidewall of the tyres have to be added, as they are separate pieces. The tyres themselves, have no tread pattern, being more akin to racing slicks. Not a problem for a dry tarmac stage. If you require something a bit groovy, though, then some replacements will need to be sourced (from the Scalextric range, perhaps). A grooved disc, complete with caliper detail, is added to the inside of each wheel and then they can be fixed to the chassis. We return to the interior for the next few stages. One thing to note here, is that Airfix suggest gloss white for the majority of the interior, where I believe it should in fact be a painted glossy aluminium colour. Once the various parts have been painted, construction can continue. The spare wheel drops into its recess, in the rear of the cabin. The drivers compartment is then kitted out with a good amount of equipment, which includes the drivers foot pedals, co-drivers footrest, fire extinguisher, electronic timing screen, handbrake and sequential gear levers and some electrical cabling. From studying pictures of the real car, about the only thing I can see missing is the mobile phone, which in this scale would be tiny, anyway. The steering column has the digital display added, before fitting the Sparco steering wheel. This assembly is then cemented to the underside of the dashboard. The completed dash has a long tab on the underneath, which fits into a location slot in the tub. The Recaro bucket seats are a little over simplified, detail wise, but Airfix have captured the basic shape, quite well. If you really wanted too, you could build the bolsters up using plastic card or something like Milliput. With the small scale however, I suspect you wont see too much when the model is closed up, anyway. One nice addition, is the inclusion of moulded 5 point harnesses. Once youve painted them blue and picked out the buckles in silver, they simply drop into place in the seat. Very neat. Once that is done, the seats can be fixed in position and then the roll cage can be built up. Airfix have moulded this in 5 parts; an upper, a rear, a single cross brace section and then the 2 sides. To their credit, it is quite finely done, so once again, take care when removing the pieces from the sprue. The instructions correctly point out that the forward A-pillar braces of the cage, should be painted black. Note here though, that the rest of the cage should be the same aluminium shade as the rest of the interior (not white, as Airfix suggest). With the cage in position, you can add the other parts of the harnesses. There are 2 pieces representing the shoulder straps, from their mounting points on the rear cage, going up to the slots in the back of the seats. They have a realistic sag moulded into them and they should look very good, once painted and added. This is a lovely little addition, which I like, very much. With the interior completed, the last job to do on the chassis is the addition of 2 mud/stone guards, which locate at the rear underside and cover the openings for the rear suspension. These can be seen hanging down on the underside of the real thing, when the car is airborne. These parts are a little on the thick side and could be thinned down along their edges, for a more realistic appearance, if so desired. Once they have been fixed in position, we can turn our attention to the body shell. As mentioned previously, Airfix have moulded the shell in one piece and a very nice job they have done of it, too. Theyve really captured the lines of this little beastie, very well. Surface detail is nicely restrained, with finely engraved panel gaps and joins, plus some perfectly acceptable raised bonnet and boot locking pins. Of course, with a one piece body, you have to expect some mould separation lines, but here they are so fine that only the minimal amount of clean up will be required. I have seen far worse on larger kits, with much bigger price tags. One area that is a little lacking, is the paint guide for the body. Airfix do supply those lovely digital images of the car, but they are geared more towards the decal application. You are left to work out yourself, exactly what needs painting. As far as I can work out, the body should be painted in the blue shade first (Airfix suggest Humbrol no14, but that seems maybe a tad too light, to me). Then it should be masked up and the black areas on the roof, running down the A-pillars and onto the bonnet, should be painted. Everything else (save for the smaller details) appears to be supplied on the decal sheet. With the paint applied, the body shell has a number of items to finish it off. There are inserts for the bonnet vents and the front grilles. A pair of door pull handles are added to the interior of the shell, along with the glass panels. Airfix have separated these into 4 sections, for an easier fit (windscreen, 2 lots of side windows and rear screen). The headlight and tail light lenses are also supplied on the clear sprue. The headlamps have their bezels moulded onto the reverse side of the lens. Another thoughtful little touch. You can paint the bezels with silver, on the back side, which should give a nice look to the lenses, when viewed from the front. The rear lenses need tinting with clear red, not forgetting to leave the reversing lamp lens clear, of course. This would seem a good point to fit the shell onto the chassis. The body is quite sturdy with not a lot of give in it. That combined with the complex shape and the bulky interior, makes me think that it could be quite tricky to persuade the shell into place. Once fixed, the smaller, more fragile items can be attached. The roof has 2 vents to be added. At the rear, the 2 piece spoiler needs painting black and then fixing to the tailgate. The final items are the wipers, the door mirrors and the various antenna on the roof. The aerials are a little thick, here and would be well replaced with some fine metal wire or stretched sprue. The decal sheet is a lovely item. Airfix have employed the services of Cartograf, once more, so the quality is assured. The images are pin sharp, with all the sponsor logos and markings, perfectly legible. Colours are bold and appear accurate and the carrier film has been kept to a minimum around the edges of each decal. Markings are supplied for either the No3 car of Jari-Matti Latvala or the No4 machine of Petter Solberg, from the 2012 Monte Carlo Rally. Conclusion This is a super little kit and represents excellent value for money. It is simple enough to be enjoyed as a quick, weekend build, yet it possesses enough detail to produce a very nice model straight out of the box. With some extra detailing and refinements, you could end up with a stunning little replica of a modern piece of WRC machinery. Im looking forward to getting stuck into this one. Review sample courtesy of
  25. Peugeot 207 S2000 P.Valousek Jun, Bohemia Rally 2011 1:24 scale Reji Model The 2011 Rally Bohemia was round 6 of the European Rally Cup Central, as well as round 5 of the Czech Rally Championship. It was held over the weekend of 1st - 3rd July and ran a total length of 191.37km. The Czech driver Pavel Valousek Jun and his co-driver Zdenek Hruza entered the event, driving a Peugeot 207 S2000, run by the Peugeot Delimax Total Team. He would set the fastest times on 3 of the 15 special stages, with 4th fastest being his lowest stage finish. He would end the event in 2nd place overall, 35.2 seconds behind the veteran Belgian stager, Freddie Loix. Valousek Jun made his rally debut in 1999, at the age of 20 and competing in the Rallysprint Kopna, piloting a Honda Civic Vti. He has driven a wide variety of rally machinery from the likes of Skoda, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Toyota, Ford, Citroen, Peugeot, Renault and Suzuki, and competed in JWRC, PWRC, ERC, IRC and WRC events. This year, he can once again be found behind the wheel of an S2000 Peugeot 207 of the Delimax Czech National Team. Decal set number 174 from Reji Model features the Peugeot 207 S2000, as driven by Valousek Jun at the 2011 Rally Bohemia. The decals have been designed for use with the Belkits 207 S2000 (kit No BEL001). Inside the standard zip-lock bag, we find 2 full sheets of decals ( along with a small addition sheet) and a colour fold-out paint and marking guide. The paint job required for this one couldn’t be simpler. The body shell is sprayed gloss white (Reji recommend Tamiya TS-26) and then the trim around the windows and front grill can be painted black. Everything else is supplied on the decal sheets. The blue and red strips are supplied in segments which are sensibly separated around selected panel joints. I would imagine that with the help from a little setting solution, they will snuggle down nicely over the body curves. Then the plethora of sponsor decals and rally placards can be applied. Reji have even supplied a number of decals to go inside the car (their placement is shown on the reverse of the paint guide), with most of them going on the racing seats. We also have the correct OMP logos, which are needed for the harnesses. The decals themselves are the usual excellent Reji quality. All the images are sharp and crisp, with colours being nice and strong. The carrier film is extremely fine and the registry looks spot on. Conclusion This is the sort of aftermarket sheet that makes you want to buy the required kit, just so you can use the decals. They really are that nice. It’s a very simply paint job, the decal application shouldn’t be too taxing and you will end up with a rather attractive looking little Pug to add to the collection. What’s not to like?. Recommended without hesitation. Review sample from
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