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It is time to present to you the fruit of my two month labour, Mitsubishi Lancer Turbo from '84 RAC Rally. Picked it because I liked its boxy look and I though that livery was pretty straight forward to do (how wrong was I). The kit itself is really good quality with nicely moulded parts, very detailed and it goes together pretty well, just like Tamiya kits. There was a little bit of flash on some sprues, but nothing to be concerned about. Of course 80's rally cars were much simpler and you can see that when you look at very simple looking interior and dash, but that is not a bad thing, it's just how the cars were back then. Assembly instructions were pretty easy to follow, however there were a couple of places where they should have been clearer. Nothing too bad, but it meant that I had to double check the actual part to make sure that I drilled the hole in the correct spot. I also bought a separate PE set for this car which had ribbon seat belts, nice antenna and a few other bits that I've used although I have not had the need to use all PE parts. All painted using Mr Hobby Aqueous and Ammo Atom paints with clear coat using Mr Hobby gloss clear spray can. The main challenge was to mask and paint the stripes and triangle on the bonnet, as the red decals weren't matching my red paint. I have made a conscious choice of painting the seats grey instead of black, so that you can actually see the seat belts. Also decided against clear coating rims as I much prefer mattish silver finish which I think is more realistic on the 80's car. Overall I'm happy with how it came out. I really like these bonnet pins from USCP, quite fiddly as they come in three tiny parts, but really nice looking. And a few photos next to the terrible Subaru Here is the link to the whole WIP thread Thanks for watching. Dan

No rest for the wicked. Finished Lancer last night, so it's time for a rally car No.3 (Celica doesn't count). This time it will be my first time with Hasegawa in form of Nissan Bluebird from 1989 All Japan Rally. Bought it new, sealed off fleabay for £17 including shipping. First impressions? A lot of sprues with quite a few parts that according to the instructions will not be used. Very detailed floor and body shell which is a plus. So far I've started cleaning up the body shell, bumpers and other bits that will be in the same colour and hopefully will be able to blast some primer tomorrow. Happy modelling Dan

This morning I've done some priming on another project and instead of watching the paint dry I decided to start a new one. So next on the kitchen workbench is Mitsubishi Lancer Turbo from '84 RAC rally. I also have the optional set with PE parts, ribbon like seat belts and metal antenna. Kit is quite nice with seven black sprues, one chrome one, one clear and body and chassis packed separately. Not many parts, but that's not a bad thing. You also get a big, coloured A4 page that shows decal layout. I was a bit surprised to see quite a bit of flash on the sprues. Nothing too bad, but after non existing flash on recent Tamiya sets I was expecting same here, especially when the kit itself is almost double to what you pay for old Tamiya. Lot's of sanding, but I don't mind that. Instructions are quite clear and straightforward however I doubt I will stick to the assembly order, as there are a few parts that in my opinion should be fitted much earlier than the instruction suggests. In the end I did some dry fitting to make sure the parts fit before I start priming. Now I need to go shopping for a decent scriber... @gwyndaffandy what do you reckon? Not 037 I know, but from the same era. 😁

For those who are into WRC. Rally Finland highlights on redbull.tv https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/videos/fia-world-rally-championship-2025-finland-highlights

A OOB Toyota ST165 Celica WRC. I have a few ideas floating around in my head to spice things up visually : A rally Recce car, Long Beach pace car, a Suzuka owned shakedown / driving school / track vehicle ? Just build the kit. Skipped straight to the body and made one stop mounting in the bumper and main headlamps. Those B pilars might end me.

Although I have one WRC car on my bench at the moment I couldn't stop myself starting another project. This time it will be another Tamiya classic, Toyota Celica GT-Four. Here is the box art And a quick shot of all sprues. Because the kit doesn't have many pieces and I'm not in the rush I decided to divide the whole build into three stages, chassis, interior and exterior. Apart from attaching a few pieces to the body my main focus was on the chassis. I like how simple the whole chassis assembly is, the whole assembly counts 18 pieces. Quite quickly found out that this kit has 'floating' exhaust that require few attachments to be added, stretched sprue did the job and parts were ready for priming. Next step will be painting and assembly. Thanks for stopping by. Dan

This is it, my first ever attempt at civilian vehicle. Why? I've hit the wall building M3 for one of the GBs and had to find my mojo again, so I have decide to give a rally car a go. I grew up on Colin McRae Rally games, so blue Impreza was a no-brainer. Even though the kit itself is quite old, it still holds up pretty well even if you judge it by today's standards. You may not get PE bits or fancy seat belts, but this doesn't matter as the kit is quite detailed anyway. And of course it is pretty cheap which is great if you're just at the beginning stage of your civilian life. Here are the money shots I had some problems with the paint hence why it is quite darker to what it should be. I also messed up a couple of decals (the one on the roof quite noticeably), but overall I'm quite happy with my first go at a rally car. If you want to read whole five pages of my struggles, here is the link to my WIP

I've been thinking about building a rally car for a while and it was about time to get on with it. Although I have two other project in the pipeline, one is almost done and the other is waiting for some AM parts, so would be rude not to start a new one. Tamiya's classic Subaru Impreza WRC was an obvious choice. Simple paint job and not too complicated decals makes this kit the best to start with. Relatively small part count will make it more enjoyable and will help to re-charge my mojo. Not sure if I like the idea of blue sprue though. I must say that even though this is fairly old kit, the parts have very little imperfections and seam marks can be sanded very easily. Couple of spots required some Vallejo putty, but apart from that it was an easy and enjoyable couple of hours at the workbench. Question to more experienced here. Would you prime the windows before paint or would you spray paint straight on?

Model - Peugeot 205 WRC - Heller 1:43 Write up - A three week build. A vacation from structure, overly planning and ultimately myself I dove into a project that came to me by chance. Balsa pallet being my largest learning here, apart from just forging through an idea, project and issues that come up. Two primer colours, one matte coat, rest is hand brushed or hand applied on. Details - Balsa wood, photo etch parts, tape Modifications - Scratchbuilt pallet, out of the box otherwise, apart from adjusting the offset and adding black off plastic card into the fenders as the model was see through. Pros My first experience with balsa Representational weathering attempt Speed, three week build Tiny! 1:43 Cons Nothing really, other than it could be more realistic. Difficult to photograph, it’s far dustier and nicer in person 😃 Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/scale_technics Build Thread - Cleaning up the mess, make up your mind! 😀

A mental vacation from structure, plans and ultimately oneself I dove into a project that came to me by chance. I received this 1:43 as having placed second in a national competition here in Sweden for something I have never done before - weathering on my Land Rover. So I thought I’d continue in similar exciting manner and do something I’ve never done before with this one and do a diorama. I am thinking something ultra simple, a shipping crate / archival storage base which by chance I found Peugeot uses. Maybe place it on a patch of concrete / grass / gravel as it’s being logistically delt with. My plan is to completely cover the car in dirt, almost comically if one wants to call it that, everything but the clean wiper tracks. So as if it came off a SS stage and hasn’t been touched since. Not aiming to mimick an exact event, car, or be 100% accurate along the way. Overall impression is everything imo. My initial idea was to completely metal paint it in its entirety in one shot leaving only the wiper streaks to have it as a statue / trophy. Unsure on the kit quality led me down the thought path of covering the vehicle. The crate idea came to me while simply starting. That’s a reminder to myself is just build, think less, it comes in the moment.

Hasegawa Lancia Stratos 1:24 + GP modeling 24V engine / rear frame transkit This is my first “new model” I aquired when thoughts started circulating about returning into the hobby.. right about 2020 (a year many introverts thrived ) At the time the incredible GP modeling transkit didn’t exist. I bought a Reji engine and detail up set which has now been far overshadowed by what the GP modeling kit offers. I do feel like I’m overstepping a bit into a complex project with modifying of kits with the entire rear frame and engine to be made to fit. Playing with the idea of having both clamshells hinged. The subject car is so exciting to me it might just be the thing that pulls me through to succeed or at least finish. And that’s something I’ve decided is the most important thing to do is to conclude projects. I have a few stratos which I will build but I am starting with the first which was bought chronologically. I like the thought of peppering in lighter projects such as road cars and curbsides when necessary to get the completion satisfaction buzz in parallel to more complex builds which I’ve done the past decade with my 1:10 builds. I had a moment for documentation of parts as I slowly descend into the journey of cutting, cleaning and fusing parts. Project direction is to make a blank slate white Lister Bell type group 4 build. I’m open to a vibrant a yellow colour or others as well.. The wonderful box art livery would be great too. It will be alot of obstacles to overcome before any paint will be applied. Let’s have some fun! Unboxed group b alien species

Model - Airfix Citroen Xsara WRC Details - Aftermarket hood pins, decals and DIY leaves added Modifications - Stance is hard-set with CA glue and hot glue as best as I could manage, exhaust is shortened and glued further away from original mounting and bored out to look more realistic, molded in rear badges, hood pins, tow hooks removed. Jack stand holes drilled through. Thin strip of tape painted in yellow and mounted in center of steering wheel detail. Subtle windscreen weathering, Flocked dashboard, seats, and steering wheel. Windows had to be cut down from one part to 5 separate. Gaps remain if you want to be picky 😀 Pros First completely airbrushed model excluding primer and clear First panel line wash First “light” coloured weathering Really happy with result!! Cons Missing lamps lenses from the box Second round of weathering experiment not as convincing as first, it is water soluble so I will continue to remove if bothersome to the eye over time. A simple but challenging build. The model kit reads like it’s in scale and nicely molded but the manual is bizzare and overall build is difficult I would say. A advanced build that required attention and imagination during basic assembly. Beware of old decals, low quality more then high quality ones anyway! Decals, weathering, perfect glass finish gloss paint and 100% stance remains a “could have been better” in my opinion but it’s a finished and documented model. I am very content, this is my second finished model from the 20 year break and it feels fantastic! Original kit boxes have had their box art cut out for future display / decoration of some sort. @scaletechnics on IG for my 1:10 rc builds WIP thread -

I have finally time come back to bench. Now I have little bit more time for my hobby. Lancia S4 is soon in RFI section, so I can start new project. Short history Alpine was manufacturing this car between 1963-1977 and variety of engines was used. Tamiya kit contains decals for Monte Carlo rally -71 car, but I think I will make my build for another race. There are already fine examples in this forum builds from this race. I am still looking options, first I was thinking option for Corsica, but -71 event was cancelled and if I am correct next event car had wider body. So I am still thinking options. Car was raced in Tour de France also. And here is link to one option for my build: 1969 Tour de France car And in 1968 A110 was raced in Le Mans. Maybe I choose between these options. So below are mandatory pictures from parts. I would say this is typical Tamiya. Engine looks good and with small detailing it's possible make fine model. Only thing I can complain is these chrome parts. I think I just remove chrome and get those painted. Good think is that wheels don't have chrome.

Hi all, just completed adding all the little sticky out bits on the Belkits Fabia rally car. It’s OOB as the #1 car of Juho Hanninen and Mikko Markkula on the 2012 Czech Barum Rally Zlin. The kit goes together very well; the main challenges are the belts (my first such effort) and the tiny etch pieces like the fasteners on the wings. Paint is Halfords Ford Polar White over their White primer (over white plastic - so easy for seeing where you’ve done)! Detail painting in various Tamiya acrylics with MrLevelling Thinners. Decals are great and supply all the livery, the green is all by decal except where I had to mix up some touch ups for cracks or gaps (by me). The guy who put the wraps on for this rally got the sack as there are some wrinkles on the curves of the wings. Next time I’d be tempted to spray the green if I could get a match, but the decals have an excellent metallic finish. The cockpit work is now virtually invisible, especially as this crew had chrome film on the tailgate. I did take some photos though. Similarly the effort underneath is largely hidden by skid plates, though less so than if you used Belkits gravel transkit! Before: After. Note it’s the other direction 🤦🏼‍♂️ A last few shots to round up. I have a few more Belkits in the stash and if as good as this they’ll be good fun. I think this angle looks purposeful: Cheers All, Will

Here is my 1/24 Audi Quattro, built to represent the car raced by Michèle Mouton with co-driver Fabrizia Pons in the 1981 Portugal Rally. This is the Italeri kit, which is a rebox of the old Esci kit. It is woefully inaccurate because it uses too many parts from the road version that aren't correct for the rally version. Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it), I had ruined the body of a Tamiya Audi Quattro Rally kit a while back, so I was able to use the following parts from that kit to make this one more accurate: - Fender flares - Front bumper - Exhaust - Side mirrors - Antenna mount - Steering Wheel - Rear window (the Italeri window had a hole in it for the rear wiper, which the rally car didn't have) I also used the tires from the Tamiya kit simply because they were better than Italeri's. The bonnet pins are from D.A.B. Models, and I scratch-built the mounts for the night stage lights. I painted the body using Tamiya lacquers, including a custom mix for the brown portions of the Audi Sport livery, and LP-50 for the red on the bonnet. Reji decals make up the rest of the livery and all other markings. I used Gravity 2K for the clear coat. This was a labour of love, and it took me the better part of a year to complete because I worked on it off and on between other projects. Because I used all those Tamiya parts, I suppose this is technically my first kitbash! Questions, comments, and especially critiques are most welcome. -Justin

I probably won't get into this fully until next year as I think I'll struggle to get it fully painted before winter hits. But hopefully I can make some good progress with the paint so I'll be about ready to build when the time comes rather than having to wait until I can spray the paint on. This one is Tamiya's Monte Carlo Alpine A110 kits which seems to get released in small numbers every few years. It's one of those kits which on first glance doesn't appear to have much to it, but looking at the instructions (and some other builds on here) I'm pretty certain it will be quite a detailed car once done. I've not decided whether to do the #22 or #28 car yet, still got a bit of time to decide on that. But to start with, here's the contents: As I said, it doesn't look much with just the two sprues, plus clear, chrome and bodyshell. But in true Tamiya style those sprues have made good use of the real estate available with quite a few parts on them. First job has been to get primer on the wheels and bumpers as they will be sprayed silver - if I go with the Silver Leaf that has quite a long curing time so I want that to have as much time as possible before the weather turns. No photo as it's only the pieces in primer. I've also removed the rear grilles from the chrome sprue. The instructions would have you paint the body colour in the grooves between the chrome grille bars (yeah, right!, like that's going to happen with a rattle can) so I've stripped the chrome. These will be painted body colour then when the time comes I plan to go over the grille bars with BMF - I'm hoping this will be much the easier method. And then it was onto the body, Last weekend I gave it a quick blow over with primer just so that any mould lines would show up better. There are faint lines which run along the top of the front and rear wings, then as is typical much stronger lines in the hard to reach places such as at the back of the windows and around the front of the body which were a particular pain to sand without losing any detail. This is the end result after sanding the lines back: Today it got put into primer. No mould lines reappearing apart from a very faint bit which should be behind the bumper, and no new lines appeared either so at this stage I'm quite happy with how it turned out. That's it for now, I'd love to make some more progress but next weekend I'm likely to be focussing more on the 300SL I think as that one NEEDS to be painted before winter. Thanks for looking.

Hi and welcome to the build thread for my third model. Its a Toyota Celica GT four 165. To be more precise i'm building the 1990 safari rally wining car sponsored by rep sol as a challenge to myself to improve the quality of both my decal work and white paint finishes. The kit is made by Aoshima /beemax and so far I have to say my initial impression is that there is lots of fine details and the quality of the mouldings appear to be top notch. I dry assembled a lot of the kit in two sections looking for any potential problems and apart from the roll cage being a potential pain in the neck if the c7r I built as my first project was anything to go by I could only find two areas which I predict could cause me a few headaches. The first is the suspension as I found it akward to line it up correctly however when I finally got it right it seemed like a matter of alignment. The other potential issue is some of the holes are a snug fit before I add paint in to the mix but again i think this wont be to bad of an issue. My current plan is to drill out any of the peg slots if I cant get the parts to fit correctly as a last resort. I am considering drilling out the brake disks with my new pin vice kit they wont be to visible should I goof it up and it will be good practice for when I build my next bike kit should I match the drill bit to the existing indents ? Would I be better of to do this before or after I have painted them in the base coat? Had I thought of it I would of taken some pictures of the sprews before I started but I didn't think to so here are some pictures of the parts I have primed so far. I have had my first covid jab today and its knocked me for six so i haven't been able to get as much done as i would like to have done.

I originally started this build way back when in the Nordic GB, in a time before lockdown! Original thread here. One of three unfinished GBs this year I'm hoping to get finished (alongside the ongoing ones and Interceptor GB I want to start!) I've slowly been making progress mistakes since, and here are a few pics, it's been a bit of a pig getting together. Underside all built up - I did unfortunately snap one of the suspension components (anti-roll bar?). Interior is mainly built up. The kit came with some (very thin) plastic material to use for the seatbelts but I just couldn't get along with it (kept tearing whilst cutting with a knife) and was somewhat translucent when I finally managed to get a strip. The aftermarket kit came with some ribbon but I couldn't get along with that either (and it was too short to match up to the guide sizes in the instructions). In the end I made up some belts out of my staple - a bit of kitchen tin foil, lined each side with masking tape, sliced to size and painted up (white primer over the yellow tape, then a coat of red). The nice thing about the foil method is when bent it does tend to hold it's shape. The kit supplied PE was a bit thin, but I had an aftermarket kit so used those parts instead (original buckles getting a second life in my Renault 5 build), unfortunately when looking back at the zoomed in photos I can see some of my trimming on the buckle ends could have been better! The aftermarket PE also didn't neatly fit onto the mounting points on the belt ends on the roll cage so they're slightly offset. The upper shell also decided to be a complete pain. The forming moulds seemed to have been slightly misaligned leaving some rather nasty seam lines along the bonnet which I cleaned up, however I'm worried the bits around the light fittings might give me some grief later on. They obviously reused the moulds from another version of the kit and blanked out the bonnet vents but left some raise lines around where they were. I smoothed it out but it was still kind of visible when the the undercoat then white coats went on but hopefully less noticeable in the decals are added. My other woes were compounded by me trying to take a 'shortcut' and use a rattle can for the blue and going a bit heavy. I've sanded off the worst of the lumpy bits and will need to give it another coat - though planning on doing that with the airbrush this time! The bleeds aren't too much of an issue - I need to mask up and paint the black roof rails / window surrounds and there's some multi-coloured diagonal strip decals that cover across the door lines. I just hope they line up well! I also noticed (after painting) that the wing mirrors have some rather nasty injection pin marks in them, I'm never sure why but I seem to find this a common issue with car kits which I really can't understand! Anyhow let's hope the rest of the build goes a bit better!

With the Challenger completed, it's time to move onto the next project. First in the set of "cars which share a name-and-not-much-else with cars I've owned", this will be Belkits' Fiesta S2000, which I believe is only the second kit they made. Of course, after I bought this Belkits released their newer Fiesta with the Aston-style grille which would have been much nearer mine, but this will be close enough - after all being a rally car it's never going to be the same as a 1-litre supermini. Unlike @pau10wen's excellent ongoing project, this is going to be pretty much out of the box so I hope you won't try to compare the two too much - I'm not sure mine will withstand that comparison! The first set of pictures are going to seem a bit repetitive as I've only really got the paint on the body so far, so apologies for the plethora of white Fiesta bodies coming up. I had to have a couple of goes at cleaing up the body, as the first application of primer highlighted some bits of seam that I hadn't got sanded right down, plus some other sharp edges. But once that was done, the white plastic had a nice coating of white Halfords primer. After that, it was out with the Appliance White having sanded the body down with 2000grit sandpaper. What with the chassis also being white, and trying to get a good covering inside as well as out not to mention all the other body parts which also needed painting, I near enough used a whole 300ml can on just this car. And the picture barely looks any different. With the paint dried, yesterday I ran some dark grey wash into the panel lines to bring them out a bit using blu-tak as a dam where I didn't want it to run. Hopefully this is as bad as the body will look. And then today I got some 4000 grit Micromesh sheet onto those panel lines to get rid of the overwash. While it's cleaned up the edges quite nicely, unfortunately to my eyes it's also made the panel lines look a bit too dark. I think tomorrow I'll give them a run over with some white gloss paint to dial down the darkness a bit. What with cleaning up the body and washing two lines ont he boot which I missed, I haven't really got started on construction yet. But my feeling is that it will be worth getting the body done first (including decalling) so that the clearcoat gets time to dry, Thanks for looking, even if it has just been white Fiesta after white Fiesta to start this thread.

Dipped in and out of this model over the last six months. Now working at home so took the opportunity to finish. First rally car and first time creating a semi-diorama - quite happy with the results. Decals were pretty fragile so took a while and a few tears here and there! Used the following items for the car: Hasegawa 1:24 Lancia Stratos HF '1977 Safari Rally Eduard 1:24 Red Sabelt harnesses Additional windscreen and side windows Studio 27 detail up set A few images pre-rally with weathering only! Thanks for looking :-)

Hi all, Here's the kit I'm going to build to represent the year of my birth... The Stratos was first introduced in 1974 but 1975 was the first full year it competed in. The car I'm building is the "Red Chardonnet" one on the box art, that won the Tour de Corse Rallye (Corsia Rally) in 1975. Chardonnet was the name of the privateer team and the car was driven by Bernard Darniche with co-driver Alain Mahé. I believe Chardonnet also had a second, blue car that year as well. Hopefully it won't be a difficult build in terms of large decals / complicated colour schemes.

I am doing a Ford Fiesta of the Paraguayan driver Augusto Bestard, which I had the pleasure of seeing in person in Erechim, in the year 2015. He competed for the South American stage of that year. This is the car: He is a Ford Fiesta R5, category below the WRC. I'm going to use a Fiesta WRC from Belkits, it's not the same car because WRCs are different from the R5 in some aspects of the body, but since I live in Brazil, buying a transkit is practically the price of a new kit (and the Two together gets really heavy on price), so sadly he'd been left with those differences. The belkits kit comes with asphalt wheels, so for this I'm going to use the wheels of the Citroen Xsara WRC from Heller, making some small adjustments to fit. It will look like this: Well, paint did all through masks, the decals will be customized, printed by a supplier here from Brazil. First layer was white throughout the car, then masks to red, and finally the black color, below some photos of the process: thanks!!!

My first Diorama, Rally Erechim 2015, Skoda Fabia S2000, driver: Gustavo Saba. Ps: don't have the crew inside the car yet.

Time for the build of a kit that's been sat staring at me from the pile for ages, Tamiya's Toyota TRD86. I picked this up last year at a bargain price online. I'm personally a big fan of the GT86/BRZ twins. They have to be among the very few modern cars I would happily splash my own cash on. Proper RWD drivers cars with skinny tyres and just enough characterful boxer power to entertain. TRD took this concept a little further with their factory spec rally car, the TRD86 which in Gazoo Racing colours is the subject of this kit......... I didn't get any pictures of the sprues but suffice to say this is yet another fine example of Tamiya's art, perfectly moulded with a colourful decal sheet which requires minimal painting of the shell beyond the base colour and even pre-cut self adhesive window masks. So, on with the build. First off, the floor pan received a coat of Halfords grey primer followed by the same company's Toyota Tyrol Silver. Some masking later saw various areas painted in satin black with titanium for heat shields...... Next up, the rear suspension and differential assembly. Very minimal assembly was required before being painted in satin black with the diff cover picked out in silver. The rear brakes were then painted in various metallic shades before being added with poly caps hidden within the hubs....... The exhaust assembly followed, being made from just 2 parts, plus the tips which will be added later in the build...... To finish this first post, the above assemblies were brought together along with the prop shaft....... That's it for now, next up will the be front end.

Ok so as teased and subsequently chosen in my Delta WIP, I bring you the Build/Review of the ModellingMaster Transkit for the Hasegawa Ferrari 328 GTB/GTS. The Transkit is to build the Ferrari 308 GTB Group 4 rally car built by Michelotto and challenged mainly by the Pozzi team through 1981 to 1983. And by other teams and privateer's afterward. The Car was transferred into Group B for 1983 like many other Group 4 cars. However it fell foul of the new classes and regulations, namely the ones regarding wheel width. The new Group B classes regulated the maximum width of the wheel depending on the class on which the car competed in. The classes were divided by the engine capacity. The other regulation change for the new class was that bolt on style over fenders were disallowed unless homologated on all 200 production cars. Seeing as the Ferrari was originally homologated into Group 4 where they were allowed. The base car was the standard 308 which didn't feature them. This didn't really affect the cars too much as like previously stated they couldn't use the wider wheels. The final regulation that hit the Group B version was that the Michelotto built cars featured the new 4v heads. Another thing that was lost. However to compensate the new 308 Quattrovalvole was homologated into Group B to remedy this. History lesson over and now back to the transkit. There are 2 versions available to order from ModellingMaster. Website here: http://modellingmaster.com/lang/ru/ferrari-308-gr4-rally/ Version 1 is the one I have here, which is the red and blue Pioneer livery used mainly on the Monte Carlo and Tour de Corse rallies of 1982. Version 2 is the all blue Pioneer livery which ran on many ERC events, but the one featured on the decal sheet is for the Tour de France Automobile of 1982 and features different wheels to version 1. As usual I've collected many reference pics of the car on the specific event I plan on building. Which to clarify is the 1982 Tour de Corse. I've created a folder on my phone with all the pics I've come across in. I've also downloaded all the build and finished pics from the development build over on Automotive forums here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1069713 To use to supplement the instructions. Right lets start shall we. Firstly this is the box you get. Nice and sturdy and will definitely survive shipping and 'handling' Upon opening the box you are presented with this: I will state that I had a fettle of the body shell when I first got the set a couple years back, and so the thin film in the windows has been removed as well as the braces that help support the rear opening for the engine bay. So lets unpack everything shall we First you're presented with a full colour painting and decal placement chart and the instructions. The instructions themselves are stapled in the corner and fold out like so: Now I'm not a fan of this type of instruction. It takes up a larger than necessary space when laid out flat like I have here. And if the pages are folded over each other then it is quite easy to lose track of which side to go next. I found myself confused a couple of times when reading through, familiarising myself with the build sequence. The final thing that lets the instructions down is that aside from the odd missing arrow, the printer used was clearly running low on ink and as such a lot of the diagrams are hard to follow. A few thorough readings should have everything cleared up however, so it is only a minor grievance. On the back of the instructions is the parts list: Now the only addition I would make to this is to label any multiple parts with the amount you should get in the set. Moving onto the most important bit. The Resin. And boy do you get a lot: Yes it is all resin. Most parts are cast in a white resin that looks very much like plastic, even under close examination. There ae some minimal parts cast in the usual beige stuff. Now I have another couple of ModellingMaster Transkits. The first being all of the classic beige resin and one I brought after this one being all of the white stuff. So obviously I caught the transition lol. The only problem with the white resin is it's hard to distinguish between it and the white plastic of the kit once parts are off the sprues. Not a major problem for me as I will be working in small sections with few parts at a time. But something to keep in mind. So lets take a closer look at what you really get. First up is the clear parts for the rear side windows and lights: Next is some engine parts, rollcage, louvers and the auxiliary lights: Here we have the seats, rear bumper and the main lights in the popped up position (you also get the option to have the lights down): The wheels are copies of the Hasegawa Lancia Stratos wheels with correct Michelin slick racing tyres. You also get a spare with the centre bore and wheel nuts drilled out. In this bag is the bonnet, engine cover, front end, front lamp pod and the rear chassis supports: We also have the body itself and the Chassis: The decals are spread over 2 sheets. Presumably one is common to the 2 versions available. [/url] And up close: Finally you get a nice small fret of Photoetch to compliment the build: So all in all it looks to be a very nice and detailed transkit, and you should end up with a very nice model at the end of it. The Transkit is still available to my knowledge and is made to order. After this build and when money permits I fully intend to purchase the second version. The next update will be the first steps of my build and I'm hoping to continue the step by step approach. I will be taking my time with it as it's my first time using resin on such a large scale. Wish me luck TTFN Ashley.