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MetroRacing

Ferrari 308 GTB Michelotto gr.4 Rally Transkit from ModellingMaster

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Ok so as teased and subsequently chosen in my Delta WIP, I bring you the Build/Review of the ModellingMaster Transkit for the Hasegawa Ferrari 328 GTB/GTS.

25755744556_a692e511ac_c.jpg

The Transkit is to build the Ferrari 308 GTB Group 4 rally car built by Michelotto and challenged mainly by the Pozzi team through 1981 to 1983. And by other teams and privateer's afterward. The Car was transferred into Group B for 1983 like many other Group 4 cars. However it fell foul of the new classes and regulations, namely the ones regarding wheel width. The new Group B classes regulated the maximum width of the wheel depending on the class on which the car competed in. The classes were divided by the engine capacity.

The other regulation change for the new class was that bolt on style over fenders were disallowed unless homologated on all 200 production cars. Seeing as the Ferrari was originally homologated into Group 4 where they were allowed. The base car was the standard 308 which didn't feature them. This didn't really affect the cars too much as like previously stated they couldn't use the wider wheels.

The final regulation that hit the Group B version was that the Michelotto built cars featured the new 4v heads. Another thing that was lost. However to compensate the new 308 Quattrovalvole was homologated into Group B to remedy this.

History lesson over and now back to the transkit. There are 2 versions available to order from ModellingMaster.

Website here: http://modellingmaster.com/lang/ru/ferrari-308-gr4-rally/

Version 1 is the one I have here, which is the red and blue Pioneer livery used mainly on the Monte Carlo and Tour de Corse rallies of 1982. Version 2 is the all blue Pioneer livery which ran on many ERC events, but the one featured on the decal sheet is for the Tour de France Automobile of 1982 and features different wheels to version 1.

As usual I've collected many reference pics of the car on the specific event I plan on building. Which to clarify is the 1982 Tour de Corse. I've created a folder on my phone with all the pics I've come across in. I've also downloaded all the build and finished pics from the development build over on Automotive forums here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1069713

To use to supplement the instructions.

Right lets start shall we.

Firstly this is the box you get. Nice and sturdy and will definitely survive shipping and 'handling' ;)

25759743602_8d312caa2a_c.jpg

Upon opening the box you are presented with this:

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I will state that I had a fettle of the body shell when I first got the set a couple years back, and so the thin film in the windows has been removed as well as the braces that help support the rear opening for the engine bay.

So lets unpack everything shall we :)

First you're presented with a full colour painting and decal placement chart and the instructions.

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The instructions themselves are stapled in the corner and fold out like so:

25251800153_57fa799d7e_c.jpg

Now I'm not a fan of this type of instruction. It takes up a larger than necessary space when laid out flat like I have here. And if the pages are folded over each other then it is quite easy to lose track of which side to go next. I found myself confused a couple of times when reading through, familiarising myself with the build sequence.

The final thing that lets the instructions down is that aside from the odd missing arrow, the printer used was clearly running low on ink and as such a lot of the diagrams are hard to follow.

A few thorough readings should have everything cleared up however, so it is only a minor grievance.

On the back of the instructions is the parts list:

25785589451_724bb4bf48_c.jpg

Now the only addition I would make to this is to label any multiple parts with the amount you should get in the set.

Moving onto the most important bit. The Resin. And boy do you get a lot:

25785588801_833f4d4a6b_c.jpg

Yes it is all resin. Most parts are cast in a white resin that looks very much like plastic, even under close examination. There ae some minimal parts cast in the usual beige stuff. Now I have another couple of ModellingMaster Transkits. The first being all of the classic beige resin and one I brought after this one being all of the white stuff. So obviously I caught the transition lol.

The only problem with the white resin is it's hard to distinguish between it and the white plastic of the kit once parts are off the sprues. Not a major problem for me as I will be working in small sections with few parts at a time. But something to keep in mind.

So lets take a closer look at what you really get.

First up is the clear parts for the rear side windows and lights:

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Next is some engine parts, rollcage, louvers and the auxiliary lights:

25854615766_b45fb90829_c.jpg

Here we have the seats, rear bumper and the main lights in the popped up position (you also get the option to have the lights down):

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The wheels are copies of the Hasegawa Lancia Stratos wheels with correct Michelin slick racing tyres. You also get a spare with the centre bore and wheel nuts drilled out.

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In this bag is the bonnet, engine cover, front end, front lamp pod and the rear chassis supports:

25247826724_dbd4c67015_c.jpg

We also have the body itself and the Chassis:

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The decals are spread over 2 sheets. Presumably one is common to the 2 versions available.

25759733702_f44037fe9b_c.jpg[/url]

And up close:

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Finally you get a nice small fret of Photoetch to compliment the build:

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So all in all it looks to be a very nice and detailed transkit, and you should end up with a very nice model at the end of it.

The Transkit is still available to my knowledge and is made to order. After this build and when money permits I fully intend to purchase the second version.

The next update will be the first steps of my build and I'm hoping to continue the step by step approach. I will be taking my time with it as it's my first time using resin on such a large scale. Wish me luck :)

TTFN Ashley.

Edited by MetroRacing

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Right so first things first.

I went through the instructions and wrote down all the part numbers for the Hasegawa parts used. I also noted if the parts needed modifying of which only 2 are stated but I feel that maybe there isn't any need. More on that when the time comes. but here is my list:

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I then proceeded to mark item part on the sprues to aid identification:

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Next up I decided to divide each page down into each assembly and only work in small sections at a time so I didn't have parts laying everywhere.

Page 1:

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And as can be seen the first thing is the engine and gearbox. and most of the parts are from the Hasegawa base kit.

I sorted out all the resin parts first:

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Then I cut the plastic pars from the trees. Engine parts on the right and gearbox on the left. Note the one plastic part for the gearbox that looks very much like the white resin parts. This is the main reason I decided to only work in small stages lol.

25247817394_244e6aeb4c_c.jpg

Now as all these parts are to be stripped of the chrome plating I cut off all the remaining parts from the fret. Which as it happens wasn't very many, so I could strip them all at the same time.

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As per usual I will proceed to work on the body whilst the rest is on going. I located all the parts and the wheels:

25759729022_161ac61593_c.jpg

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Only some minor clean up needed for the wheels.

The body has been cleaned up for the most part on previous perusing's of the kit so needs very little.

I have decided (a shame really) to build the car with the lights down and no additional lights. Although the car turned up to the event like this:

fz22rk.jpg

http://rallymania.forumfree.it/?t=44115940&st=120

It ran like this:

Tour.de.Corse.1982.J.C.Andruet.Biche.Fer

http://tieba.baidu.com/p/622418577

So that's what I've decided to go with.

That's it for this update. Hopefully not too long before the next.

TTFN Ashley.

Edited by MetroRacing

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Cool car, i have seen it at Retromobile ( it seems to be there most years)

That transkit is pretty comprehensive makes you wonder why they didn't go the extra mile.....

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Mmmm, that transkit looks rather nice! I like your methodical approach to sorting out all the parts too!

I don't know whether I should look at your threads though - I followed that link - & I really like the look of that Lada VFTS that they do!! Poor website they have though, no way I can see to order stuff off there & no prices or info on whether stuff is actually available....

Anyway, I've got the :popcorn: and :beer: in, so crack on...!!

Keith

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Looks interesting will follow with interest

Roger

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A rally Ferrari, what's not to like, I'm in... :popcorn:

Sean

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Wow I certainly wasn't expecting this much interest haha.

Cool car, i have seen it at Retromobile ( it seems to be there most years)
That transkit is pretty comprehensive makes you wonder why they didn't go the extra mile.....

I've seen a couple of Quattrovalvole's running in Group B spec at various shows. Full chat over jumps makes me wonder how big the drivers Manly veg must be to do that in a Ferrari haha.

And yes there were a lot of questions during the development build about whether thy should have just gone the whole hog and released a full resin kit lol.

They have since released a few all resin kits.

wow, what a conversion kit!

This will be a cool build.

Yes as above it is very comprehensive. Glad to have you along and I certainly hope to live up to everyone's high standards with this kit haha.

Mmmm, that transkit looks rather nice! I like your methodical approach to sorting out all the parts too!

I don't know whether I should look at your threads though - I followed that link - & I really like the look of that Lada VFTS that they do!! Poor website they have though, no way I can see to order stuff off there & no prices or info on whether stuff is actually available....

Anyway, I've got the :popcorn: and :beer: in, so crack on...!!

Keith

You might not want to read this then Keith. I have the Lada kit in the stash ;)

I know what you mean about their website. I've always felt it was very lacking.

With regards to ordering you have to email them direct at info@modellingmaster.com and Roman usually responds the same day.

The Prices for the big transkits and full kits are between 140 - 160 Euros. The Lancer engine transkits are 20 euro with most stuff being made to order.

I'm currently waiting on an order of Lancer stuff to be made up ;)

Looks interesting will follow with interest

Roger

Thanks Roger glad to see you back again :)

A rally Ferrari, what's not to like, I'm in... :popcorn:

Sean

Exactly I couldn't put it any better myself. Ferrari's are racing cars and rallying is a form of racing. At least that's what someone thought back then haha.

Right next update is currently under way so hold tight lol.

TTFN Ashley.

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This update is the rest of yesterdays progress. I would've posted it last night but it was quite late when I decided enough was enough.

Firstly I stripped the chrome plating from all the necessary parts. I used Wilko's own oven cleaner as it's 50p cheaper than Oven-Pride and the formula is near identical.

25270793603_232eb0fdea_c.jpg

I did the parts in 2 batches with each batch only taking around 15mins to be clear of the plating. As a bonus there doesn't seem to be any clear coating under the chrome as is the norm. They came out of the bath looking like virgin plastic again.

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Once I'd dried the parts off I started to assemble the engine. However I deviated from the instructed way of building it as I found it hard to align the sides up.

So I glued the base of the gearbox to the main housing and built the engine up using it's straight edges to guide me.

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A bit blurry but it's all lined up nice and straight. On that side...

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The clutch housing part seems to be too big as although the top and side pieces are straight in the above pic, the housing at the end is way to wide.

However it doesn't seem to affect things too much. Plus this is the side of the engine that faces the bulkhead so is obscured from view for the most part. I made sure that the other side lined up as best I could get for that reason.

The misalignment of these parts did cause a problem with the cam covers. Easily fixed by cutting off the location pin seen in this pic.

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I broke out the paint and hairy sticks to get some v.dark grey on the rubber boots for the CV joints and gear linkage.

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Whilst all that was drying I used the time to clean up all the resin parts, which I can happily say was over in a flash ;) Pun fully intended and utilised haha.

The only piece that needed a fair bit was the chassis. I opened up the mounting holes for the suspension components whilst I was at it. Before and after pics:

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Ok so you can't really tell the difference but the holes did need a quick drill through to clean out some resin.

I next test fit the exhaust pipes to the manifolds:

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I should make it clear that the manifold is the plastic kit piece and the pipes are the white resin parts. It is really hard to tell the difference. The only thing I've found is that the resin has a very slight rough texture to it. Like 2000 grit sand paper or like it's had a coat of primer. The first thing that came to mind when thinking about this was could it be a similar material to the bonnet of my real car. I should explain that I own a Volvo 480 and the bonnet is made of plastic, but it's not a normal injection moulded plastic. It's a powdered type that is compressed into a mould and resin is added to set it. I wonder if this white stuff in this kit is something along those lines.

I decided to have a test of my theory and behold:

25270784003_d1b74f4c27_c.jpg

That is the resin replacement intake manifold without primer or even a wash, painted with Humbrol 56. The paint took like normal and once dry doesn't rub off. So I've decided that for small parts like these I will just treat them like plastic. I will probably still have to use epoxy to join them though, but that's no real hardship given the time that will be saved not having to wash and prime everything lol.

Whilst the paint was out I got some colour on the engine:

25270784743_c063eca51f_c.jpg

And the last thing I did last night was to wash the body parts that I'd been working on and then left them to dry overnight.

25270785323_8760b55603_c.jpg

So that's as far as I got last night and before I can make anymore progress I need to run to Halfords for more primer :(

TTFN Ashley.

Edited by MetroRacing

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You don't hang around do you?! Great start there Ashley!

And as to that Lada - how about building it next?! :P:D I have to admit that having sold off so many of my car kits recently I think the missus would :chair: to me if I started buying more again. Sorely tempted though!!

Keith

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You don't hang around do you?! Great start there Ashley!

And as to that Lada - how about building it next?! :P:D I have to admit that having sold off so many of my car kits recently I think the missus would :chair: to me if I started buying more again. Sorely tempted though!!

Keith

I don't hang around? What about you picking my next build 2 days into this one haha.

Yeah it is a toughy when you decide to cull the stash. I did the same recently with my aircraft stuff. Touch wood so far I haven't regretted it lol.

Ashley

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I don't hang around? What about you picking my next build 2 days into this one haha.

:rofl:

Yep, you got me there!!

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Ok so here is todays update.

First thing I did was to go to Halfords to replenish my primer stock. I had been pondering the colour choice for a while and to be honest I still hadn't decided what to do as I made my way over there.

The colours are pretty obvious being red and blue. The blue is specified as Tamiya TS-44 and actually colour matches the decals supplied so you can mix and match decals and paint if you wish. I already had a can of this so that was fine. Now no colour is given for the red and I have a can of Halfords Fiat Racing Red 140. Which has been proven to match Alfa Romeo's Rosso Corsa, though Alfa enthusiasts refute this.

I had originally brought this paint for my Tamiya Alfa 155 DTM, and my plan for a Ferrari red was to be a different shade and then use the same paint for the red Delta Integrale 16v I have. The real one's were reputed to have been painted using Ferrari paint. So anyway I was undecided on whether to get a new red for this and therefore the Lancia or to use the one I already had. Also I wasn't sure whether to go with my usual white primer or use grey instead.

So in the end I brought the usual large can of white primer, a small can of grey and a can of Fiat Orange Red.

When I got home I did a quick colour test:

25914034945_e2b3c6a64c_c.jpg

White primer is on the left, grey on the right. Orange red at the top and Racing red on the bottom.

To me it's pretty clear. White primer and the racing red so that'll be what I go with.

Right so as that dilemma was sorted and OCD overload was averted once again haha. It was time to get a shifty on with the kit, and a little filler session was on the cards first.

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Above is the filling of the holes for the plastic HT leads to mount. Presumably those are the Distributors, however the instructions call for a hole to be drilled into one to mount the alternator drive pulley.

A couple places on the body needed a smidge of filler too:

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And after a quick sanding:

25285332013_982caa4627_c.jpg

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Whilst I was playing with the body I decided it was best to test fit the rear window glazing. A good idea as a little filing was needed on the lower valance. This is the fit after a little fettling:

25285333873_84e852d803_c.jpg

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Next I thought it best to get the epoxy out and glue the resin parts together.

The exhausts:

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And the retracted lights:

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Once the epoxy was dry I tidied up the joins on the exhausts. These will be primed as I plan to use Mr Hobby stainless steel which always works better with a bit of primer underneath.

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I then turned my attention to the engine and isn't it looking good ;)

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Next and finally for tonight I started to get parts ready for priming.

I started with the carburettors. I thought it best to use super glue to mount them on a cocktail stick.

25793265602_9680efa4eb_c.jpg

Whilst I was making preparations I notice a small bump on the rear engine cover. It was clear that it was an air bubble but it wasn't a hole. I hoped I could sand it flat without taking the top off and opening it up. Sadly that wasn't the case. So I tried out a technique I've read on here and used some super glue to fill it.

25281318734_f0d69e0744_c.jpg

You cant really see the glue but it's there and once dry, I sanded the excess off and said air bubble was filled nicely :)

So I broke out the blu-tak and arranged everything ready for primer.

25888130246_1cd7580924_c.jpg

To recap that's the wheels, bonnet and engine cover, exhausts, front valance panel, carbs, chassis and body, and as I write this they are drying nicely.

So that conclude today's progress.

TTFN Ashley.

Edited by MetroRacing

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I have the same hasegawa kit with A set of pioneer decals for the tour De France auto 1982 which looks almost the same as this build so I will be watching with interest

Shaun

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Sexy engine...!! :winkgrin:

I haven't found the sexy part yet haha. But the engine is definitely turning into a beauty all of it's own haha.

And you might want to avert your gaze. I fished out this last night to have a peruse through ;)

25914384246_149598fe14_c.jpg

I have the same hasegawa kit with A set of pioneer decals for the tour De France auto 1982 which looks almost the same as this build so I will be watching with interest

Shaun

Great to have you along for the ride Shaun. I'm not sure I can match your standards but I will endeavour to try haha.

I strongly recommend the transkit I have here if you already have the Hasegawa kit. ModellingMaster also do the all blue Pioneer from the Tour de France Automoblie.

It's a lot of work to backdate a 328 to a 308 let alone make the flared aches as well as the rear chassis being completely different and bespoke to the Michelotto rally cars lol. One thing I have noticed that is omitted from this transkit is that the cars used a mechanical fuel injection system as opposed to the carbs that are included here.

Right the next update is inbound so bear with me lol.

TTFN Ashley.

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So first thing I did this morning was to prepare the parts that needed more primer for said second priming.

These parts are what escaped and coincidentally they're all to be painted Stainless steel.

25940288305_1221fb4948_c.jpg

Fortunately the Mr Hobby colour doesn't take log to dry and when using a primer base it doesn't rub off haha.

So without further ado I got the engine looking like this:

25819501992_253fdd7d0e_c.jpg

25307582024_2b01c2207e_c.jpg

25940276035_2b83195a36_c.jpg

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Looking rather good and it seems a shame that it has to be fitted into the car at all lol.

One part for the engine that the instructions call for modifying is B6 below:

25819510912_11901b8e18_c.jpg

According to the instructions you are to cut the end that mounts to the cam cover off and drill a 1mm hole into it. Then glue it to the cam cover like you're to do for the standard kit. I've decided to leave this part off until later when it tells you to mount the other half to the chassis frame. My only reckoning for having to modify this part is that it needs to be shorter and drilling the hole will allow you to insert the other half. If this is the reasoning then it's an easy thing to do at the later stage. So that seems like a good idea. Plus I haven't cut it from the sprue yet so I can't lose it haha.

So with the stage one of the instructions complete I now turned my attention to the next stage which, apart from a small step on page 1 is mostly all of page 2.

25819507772_1b6b4ed20f_c.jpg

25914379896_88b15eb1c6_c.jpg

Before working on the rear suspension parts which are just the plastic Hasegawa parts, I've decided to build up the rear chassis as they are all resin and will no doubt need some clean up ad a bit of fettling.

These are the parts I have to work with:

25940283185_58edec53ce_c.jpg

My reckoning was right in that all the pour lines were on the mating faces for the frames. I've been slowly fettling them all day and they are now ready for a quick priming before painting the Aluminium. For that task I've decided to try out a rattle can I have of Peugeot Gloss Aluminium. The same paint used on the 206 road and rally cars. Well it does say it's Aluminium after all lol.

That'll be my first task tomorrow though along with the main chassis.

The fuel tanks/sacks and the connecting pipe was next up.

25311555783_2c18026064_c.jpg

The instructions called for the location holes to be expanded to 2mm. I test fitted to see why and the chassis is obviously narrower that the Hasegawa 328 one. Not by much but enough to stop it all fitting together properly.

However I didn't think that the hole needed to be opened up all the way to 2mm so I opted for 1.5mm.

25639707400_eaf33675bb_c.jpg

And another test fit showed that I was right and it all fit just fine. In fact the hole was the perfect size and held the part just tight enough to keep it in place. So I attached the fuel sacks with blu-tak to the chassis and glued the pipe in place.

25311553563_635dc61698_c.jpg

And once the glue was set. Hey presto:

25940272335_1bfa8d45f5_c.jpg

I then painted the sacks black and will paint the pipe silver. whilst I had the black open I painted up the suspension arms, both front and rear.

25311542163_68a0ec24ec_c.jpg

All whilst I was on and off with those bits, waiting for glue and paint to dry I made head way with the body and engine cover. These are the only parts for the body pieces that feature any red. First things first I sanded back the primer to flatten and smooth it off. then I sprayed the first coat of Fiat Racing Red 140.

The paint didn't cover as it should for some reason. I've never had a problem with Halfords paints before.

It was little matter though as I usually always spray a second coat anyway. It just meant I would have to knock back the paint a bi more than usual.

So this is how the body and engine cover stand as of tonight. Ready for the second and hopefully final coat of red.

25639698760_3804ebd86a_c.jpg

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So that's it for todays update.

I'm not sure how much progress I'll get done each day now as my 2 week holiday has come to and end and it's back to work tomorrow :(

TTFN Ashley.

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And you might want to avert your gaze. I fished out this last night to have a peruse through ;)

25914384246_149598fe14_c.jpg

You can go off people you know?! :tease:

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Looking good in red - engine looks superb too

Roger

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Soz there was no update tonight. Or should I say last night now haha.

But with my holiday finishing I didn't get a worth while amount done. So I think the updates will be every couple of days from now on, unless something great or dire happens haha.

Don't worry Keith I've decided I'm not going to build the lada next. I think I'll be doing a simple Road car as a rest from all the decal and paint headaches I seem to get with rally cars haha.

And hang onto those remarks Roger. They might come in handy again for the next update when I will present the little I did manage to get done ;)

TTFN Ashley

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Rightio tonight's update will cover the last two days worth of modelling. I could have continued a bit further tonight but stabbing myself with my scalpel wasn't a great idea lol.

The first thing I did yesterday was to rummage through my accessories box to find some bits that will be useful the further this build progresses. Most of these bits I got when I purchased the majority of someone's stash when they decided to refocus their modelling onto sci-fi figures.

These are some bits I picked out for the engine bay.

25363912513_2dc82dd205_c.jpg

I then proceeded to use some of the fine wire for the HT leads on the engine. The gauge is something like 0.16th of an inch so I'm not sure what that equates to in mm but I drilled 0.6mm holes into the cam covers to locate them. The engine is now complete save for a couple of minor paint touch ups here and there.

25897695841_3530a67209_c.jpg

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The other thing I worked on yesterday was the body and engine cover. In the end I had to go with a third coat to get an even colour coverage.

To recap the total process was first a single heavy coat of primer, then cut back with 400 grit dry sandpaper. 1st coat of Racing red, sand back with 400 grit and smooth with 800 wet and dry. 2nd coat of red and wet sand with 2000 grit before the final red coat. Here is the results:

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There are a couple of tiny dust specs but they all appear to be in areas to be coloured blue, so my plan is just to flat them off with 2000 wet and dry before applying the blue. I'm hoping to spray as much of the blue as possible. I will attempt to use the blue decals as templates for the masks though, because of the curvature of the blue on the roof I may just use the decal for that. That's a job for tomorrow so I will have to see how I get on.

So today's progress was finishing off the painting of a few bits. Namely the fuel sacks and the wheels.

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The gold paint is a nightmare as it's one of the Humbrol gloopy mess one's that doesn't cover well and takes an age to dry. I've actually been painting them for the past few days as each side needs painting separately and requires 2 coats to get a solid coverage that isn't translucent. I've since fitted the tires again and only have the wheel nuts and centre bore to paint up.

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Most of the rest of tonight has been fettling the chassis parts.

I started with the front bulkhead that fits under the bonnet.

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The fit to the chassis is good. Like so...

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But with foresight in mind I decided to fin out the brake and clutch master cylinder's. Yep they are as tiny as you can imagine.

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The holes in the bulkhead needed drilling a little so I opened them up a bit with a 1.2mm drill bit. I also did the same with the holes for what I presume are the heater pipes being careful not to drill though completely.

Now my attention turned to the rear chassis. I flicked through the instructions to just double check that I had all the parts out and it's lucky I did. I'd missed some little A frame parts and forgot about the plastic kit suspension supports. I also found the handbrake level too, though it wont be fitted for a while. So it's sitting safe with the master cylinders at the moment. These are the parts I needed:

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I proceeded to mock up the rear chassis structure and found a few parts that could be fitted together and not affect the build order. Doing this also helps see fit problems, and is useful for lining everything up and making sure mating surfaces are flat and as neat as possible.

This is the first sub structure that I've glued together:

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And it mounts to the chassis like so:

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The little A frames can be mounted to this too and I intend to do so. However they will need carefully aligning so as to fit with the top square frame. There is also a shelf that mounts to the back of this little structure that I haven't yet mounted though it is supposed to be done so on the first page of the instructions. The shelf holds the Oil tank, Battery and a clear trough that I presume is the coolant reservoir. The fit of this isn't the best and needs a fair bit of fettling. For one the shape needs refining and it doesn't sit level like it should. I was giving it and the previous frame a good seeing to when I slipped and stabbed my thumb with my scalpel. Nothing too serious and it didn't bleed for long so after an hour I went back and finished up the fit issues. This is what I've had to do to the back of the frame.

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Quite a bit of filing of the bottom lip and a had to cut a notch to fit around the battery tray on the other part. Unfortunately I haven't taken a picture of that part but the next update should have it glued to this part and I'll have to re prime it, so I'll have a pic of it then lol.

The last thing I've done tonight was to smear a bit of filler on the bottom sills of the chassis piece. Filing the mould lines off left a few deep scratches. I will sand the filler off tomorrow and see where I'm at with it.

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So that's it for the last couple of days. Next update will most likely be in another couple. So as always.

TTFN Ashley.

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All looking good Ashley, the paint on the shell looks nice!

Haven't you got any superglue though? Some of that on your cut thumb & you'd have had an hour more building time....!! :whistle::D

Keith

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You know. That actually occurred to me last night. In bed haha.

Bit late by then but always handy for the next mishap lol.

Ashley

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Ok so this update isn't as packed as usual for the simple reason that yesterday I didn't get any modelling time in at all.

The time directly after work where I usually get a fair bit done was taken up with my offering to give a lift home from work to my friend whom had had a bit of a tiff with her partner. And then I got distracted with my Playstation haha.

One interesting note that developed is that Roman from ModellingMaster has been informed of this build/review after I received an email stating my latest order had been cast and was ready for shipment. It was nice to hear that he thinks I'm making excellent progress with it :)

Right on with the update. All this progress was the few hours I've had this afternoon. Not much but a lot if that makes sense haha.

This first thing was to sand off the filler on the sills.

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Then I sprayed the sills and front valance white. Yes that's right, white. True multi-coloured Ferrari this one haha.

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In truth the front valance is mostly blue but the lip is white and I thought it'd be easier to paint it than apply the decals.

I proved to be a headache deciding which order to apply each colour. Next on the list is the Aluminium of the chassis and interior. Last is the blue which gives me time to get the masking right on it. However I'll probably have to mask of the interior anyway. Though it would've very likely been easier to paint that before even applying the red. Oh well cant change that now haha.

The rest of this evening was building and gluing the rear chassis.

I started by getting the main parts set up and glued to act as a solid unit for the smaller parts that would likely need a bit of fettling.

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I taped the front bulkhead into place so it sat flush with the main chassis. Then I taped the top framing to the rear structure and used super glue to quickly set it to the front bulkhead. I didn't glue the top frame to the rear part and these then form 2 mini assemblies that can be painted separately and can be brought together around the engine and fuel tanks.

Once they were secured I Added the little A frames and then the diagonal supports. The A's didn't need any fettling once cleaned up but the diagonal ones needed the end that mounts to the top frame re-angled and shortened slightly. After that it was a final fettle of the rear tray before gluing that into place. It's damn near horizontal now which I'm glad about. I just didn't look right angled upwards haha

After it's all together it looks like this:

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Then I glued in the centre console piece that holds the handbrake lever.

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I couldn't resist a test fit with the body to see how it all looks.

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I'm not sure I'm gonna find my 'tasty' part with this kit as it's all looking rather tasty as it progresses ;)

This is the breakdown of the rear chassis to simplify things and allow the engine and fuel system to be mounted.

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I have made a start with the Peugeot Gloss Aluminium paint. I've painted the underside of the bonnet and the front bulkhead. No pics of them as they are currently drying. I'm hoping to re-prime the chassis parts tonight and tomorrow will just be painting them aluminium with a major masking session on the body. First for the aluminium interior then for the blue stripes.

TTFN Ashley.

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I'm not sure I'm gonna find my 'tasty' part with this kit as it's all looking rather tasty as it progresses ;)

Agreed, it's all looking verrrry nice!

K

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