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  1. I'm now at the crucial stage of painting the upper surfaces of my SH Kittyhawk 1a so looking for some advice please in terms of the correct/best enamels to use for the mid-stone and dark earth having opted for Humbrol's 157 Azure Blue for the underside as this looks about right from colourised photos of the period, accepting these are not entirely reliable My dilemma is that I have a number of brands in my paint stash that I could use as follows: Dark Earth: Humbrol 29 : Xtracolor X002/BS450 Mid Stone: Humbrol 84 : Humbrol HB12 (very old tin) : Xtracolor X00
  2. So I found out my go to enamel paint for Modern US subjects, Model Master, is being discontinued. Any suggestions on a paint brand I should try that’s accurate for modern US aircraft? MRP? AK? Hataka? Gunze?
  3. I thought I would add this here as I had bought some MRP paint and love it, it really sprays beautifully. But that's not why I posted this. I have little white plastic card that I spray a bit of every color I bought and have lots of Tamiya. Of note if anyone needs it MRP's PC-10 Late is virtually the same color as Tamiya XF-51 Khaki Drab. The Tamiya is flat while MRP is satin/semi gloss but the two colors are very very close. Just thought this might be interesting as MRP can be tough to get in some places.
  4. Hey, so I have this problem with Revell colors. I've bought Revell enamel matt 37 for the surface to look, well, matt. But that isn't the case as you can see in the pictures. The red color appears glossy. Now, I've put a matt 69 besides it for comparison, so you can clearly see the difference. I don't know what is going on. Could this be a mistake by Revell or did I do something wrong? Model looks kinda ruined for me now, because everything should have matt finish (it's a Boba Fett Slave I by Revell by the way). Is there any way to safe it? I have some varnish... Also, the paint has been dryin
  5. Good morning everyone , I have a very small question regarding Vallejo model air and their other products like their primer , should they still smell after they have dried? It’s been a good few days and the model is still a bit wiffy after giving it a sniff I am also a noob at airbrushing so another question is once I have sprayed a coat do I leave it to dry like brushpainting or can I just go over it straight away
  6. I use pipettes to transfer paint from the bottle to the airbrush or mixing cup. I've been getting a bit fed up with the number of them that have been littering the spraybooth. Yesterday I finally got around to drawing up and cutting a stand to hold them tidily and out of the way. I'm not sure if others have this issue or not, but if anybody would be interested in this stand please let me know and we can get it added to the product range. Cheers
  7. Does anybody have comments on the accuracy of AMMO by Mig Jiménez colours for WWII RAF aircraft? I'm fed up with buying new paint at my LMS and discovering noticeable differences when compared with the colour swatches in RAF Museum reference book British Aviation Colours of World War Two. AMMO recommends the following: Dark Earth..........................A.MIG-070 Medium Brown Dark Green.........................A.MIG-915 Dark Green Sky.....................................A.MIG-243 Sky Type S Interior Grey Green............A.MIG-219 Interior Green Ocean Grey......
  8. Hello, after many years of not building a Model Aircraft kit I decided to buy one. Its a Revell Yak - 3 1:72 Level 3 kit. My question is the box says 10 tins of paint but the instructions say 12. Which is correct and also where is the cheapest place to but it? Thank You
  9. Hi all... Slight diversion from modelling this weekend as I had to spray the wing mirror casing on my car (satin black) - don't ask! Paint has gone on well but the final coat is left feeling a bit rough to the touch. Is there anything I can get that I can polish it smooth without damaging the paint (was thinking micromesh?) - if so, some guidance on what to buy would be most welcome. Thank you all. GK
  10. As per title. I could do with some help to find a shade of brown paint. For reasons I'll not go into I'd like a pot 'off-the-shelf' and not have to mix anything. Gloss, matt, or semi-matt/gloss, doesn't matter as it will get varnished over Acrylic or enamel The shade I require is a reddish or orangey tawny brown More reddish or orangey than Humbrol 9 Gloss Tan, but about that degree of luminescence or a bit lighter, but not darker I can get locally; Humbrol, enamel & acrylic Vallejo, Model Colour only Revell, acrylic only
  11. Two drawer paint storage unit for 36ml Bottles EBMA Hobby & Craft We all have a larger stash of paint than we think we have, and finding storage for it is not always easy. There are the vertical racks (Which EBMA do as well) however some of us (me included) prefer drawers for paint. EBMA have created their own line of racks, drawers and tool storage etc made from MDF that are pre-cut ready for assembly. These are designed for the typical bottles used by Gunze and Tamiya and hold 33 bottles per drw, so 66 in total Filled with my Gunze
  12. Hi All I am currently building the Airfix Jet Provost T.4 (A02107) and I have a question regarding the colours for the (A) scheme - which appears to be a “low-vis” scheme. The Humbrol number / name suggested for the underside is 28 / Matt Camouflage Grey - which the instructions state is an approximate match to BC381C 626 (Barley Grey). However, Humbrol 28 is only available as an enamel and I very much prefer to use acrylics (Humbrol ones mostly). I’m not overly precious about colour accuracy but would at least like to be in the right ballpark
  13. Hi Guys, I have the Tamiya 1/700 Scharnhorst kit to build, and I'm after some info on camouflage / colour schemes for the kit. The model has an enclosed bridge, which I understand was fitted after the channel dash, and I've seen photos of her with dark superstructure and hull, but with light bow and stern. I've also seen pictures of a rather elaborate camouflage pattern, so my question is what would be correct for this model ? I do have the Snyder and Short Kriegsmarine colour chips, so I would be able to refer to them if needs be.
  14. For the Luftwaffe experten, I would be grateful for thoughts on which paint manufacturers offer the best representation of the following: RLM 81 RLM 74/75 I mostly use Xtracolor, but the 81 they offer looks too green to be Braunviolett (I know there are variations). Meanwhile the 74 and 75 appear too close in hue and offer much less contrast than is apparent on period photos. I recently had a go with a couple of random other greys, which gave (I felt) a better result (as shown here - NB it's not finished yet!). I would be very grateful for advice or recommendations
  15. As previously hinted at in the Compucolor/DBI thread, here's my list of the Gloy standard and authentic ranges. I'm not sure if they're complete. I suspect that the railway range isn't, judging by the gaps in the numbers, but I think that the standard and aircraft ranges are. If that's the case, I'm surprised that there weren't any post-war colours. Maybe you know something I don't! My first Gloy Authentics were bought from Ren Models in Cambridge. This would have been in the early eighties, from their Mill Road shop. I think they may have been in Burleigh Street before that, but I
  16. Aluminium Palette (AK613) AK Interactive Paint mixing is a chore if you’re always struggling to find a suitable surface, which makes palettes a desirable tool, especially if they have multiple wells so you can keep a number of shades of the same base colour on the go at once. Will 10 wells do you? Well? That’s how many you get in this utilitarian 17cm diameter (6.75”) palette that’s available from AK. The wells are arranged in a circle and it is supplied in a clear bag with header card with no frills. Aluminium ensures that it’s rugged
  17. Hi guys, What method do you use for holding/storing your models while they're drying? At the moment I'm using a black plastic base which has rows of holes in it. It's designed to be used with alligator clips mounted on metal sticks which you then poke into the holes, but A) the clips that came with it are way too strong and would warp/snap any part I'd hold with them, and B ) The holes in the base seem to have some sort of obstruction in them meaning the metal sticks need to be pushed really hard for them to sit in place, so I've resorted to just using wooden toothpicks
  18. I've found lots of posts on various sites recommending what thinners to use with what paints either off the shelf or home brew, but it there a consolidated list or matrix anywhere that I can reference?
  19. Hi Everyone, I'm wondering how I should paint the following piece(s), it's the cockpit window for a Spitfire. How do people generally tackle this?
  20. I have decided to think about an alternative to my beloved Mr Color and Mr Paint and in a moment of patriotic zeal ,I thought about using locally produced paint, especially having been wowed by Stew Dapples sex god apron outfit at Telford, it's time for some Colourcoats. Now I am familiar with its previous incarnation through White Ensign and have no qualms about the quality and colour matches which from what I can see are pretty exacting. My interest is in the speed of drying, I'm spoilt as Mr Color/Paint +Mr Leveling dries rock hard and Tamiya tape ready in 30-120 minutes on ave
  21. Good evening, I am embarking on the interesting mission of a 1/72 Fairey Delta 2 and wish to portray it in the guise of when it had just broken the absolute air speed record. This is a peculiar colour. I wondered if some of the more knowledgable modellers here might be able to help as I can’t seen to pin the shade of colour down that I I’ll need to paint the model. See below photos for reference : Cheers, Ash
  22. Hi everyone, my name's James and I'm relatively new to model making but I've learned so much from this forum that I wanted to give something back to the community. I made this conversion chart out of frustration at trying to convert a paint colour only to find that either an equivalent paint wasn't listed - or that my local model shop was out of stock. www.modelshade.com will fall back to using the CIE94 colour matching algorithm and show you a bunch of other possible matches, based on swatches I scraped from manufacturers websites. Each match is rated out of five stars, matches that are on an
  23. Hi Everyone! I just started on my first model, and there's a few general (non technical, it's friday let's keep it simple) questions about painting and glueing. I'm trying to make subassemblies as to not be working with to many parts at the same time, but when I mixed paint, I felt like it was better to immediately paint all the parts that need that specific blend of colours, how do you go about this? Is it okay to paint the majority of the parts first, and then only start glueing? I'm afraid if I keep some for later, I won't be able to reach them, I won't forget
  24. Dear Fellow Modellers I'm sure this is an old subject, what the best paints are for the RFC PC10 colour, but as a confirmed Gunze paint enthusiast I wondered if anyone had advice on a Gunze paint or mix they could offer? Thanks Andrew
  25. I wonder if anyone here has recommendations for the blue paint for R2 D2? I've picked up a couple of the retrokit R2 bananaas kits, and looking at my blue paints I'm struggling to find one that is a close match to the blue colour on R" D2. I've seen a Vallejo Air Ultramarine Blue colour used in a WIP here, but my best option for paints locally seems to be Citadel paints, and one of Caledor Sky, Macragge Blue, or templeguard blue. Failing that, the best paint I seem to have is Tamiya clear blue over white primer and tamiya flat white. I've also g
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