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  1. So, I wanted to do a repaint of my Takom Coelian and wanted the late war or 'what if' colours. Couldn't find the resadagrun in the Real Color range, and wanting to keep the finishes consistent (Mig Ammo always dries satin) I decided to look into the 3rd Gen acrylics as they had the colours I needed in a set. Brilliant. Got them and the thinner. Review vids looked positive. Great. I just tried them. They are not at all great. For brush painting, not bad. Good coverage but they still streak. For airbrushing... What a nightmare! Thin it 50/50 with the correct thinner. Spatters and slings paint like web. Thin it 30/70. Inconsistent coverage and it floods. It took an AGE to clean the airbrush out. It was drying around the tip like vinyl paint (contrary to that 'no tip drying' claim) . I tried it with lacquer thinner as suggested as well. Much like AKs 'advice' that you could thin RC with water, this turned out to be bogus as well with similar, goopy results. Should've known after the RC stuff (before I eventually figured them out with no help [and actually being ignored in emails] from the manufacturer) that this stuff was too good to be true. If I can't get it to work, wasted money on the set, the white, primer and thinner, and will have to pay more to get the appropriate, lighter dunkelgelb from Mig Ammo -.- Does anybody know how to resolve this? I'm at a total loss, and I'm not willing to risk my model at present with these results. My airbrush/mini compressor will spray Mig Ammo, Tamiya, RC, Hobby Aqueous and Stynlrez primer without trouble with appropriate thinning. Gaz
  2. What is the true colour of Dark Green as applied to UK manufactured aircraft during WWII? For many years I've used Humbrol 30 and it is very close to US FS 595A Ref 34096. I got a copy of the Federal Standard paint chips back in the 1970s and it is kept in the dark. RAF Dark Green is a bluish green with no hint of brown. Recent tins of 30 are, when dry, almost exactly the same as 30 painted on to models back in the 1970s. Exploring airbrushing and acrylics purchased a number of Vallejo paints, covering WWII RAF colours. I was given a basic set of LifeColour paints. This week I tried both Life Colour 538 and Vallejo 71.016. Both claim to be RAF Dark Green, but once painted and dry are VERY different. The Vallejo seems to be more like 34096, a dark olive green colour with no blue hue at all and the Lifecolour is worse, a light earthy colour, more like 34027. What is the general experience of the colour accuracy of acrylic paints form the various makers? At the moment, based on one trial I'm very suspicious of all these acrylic paints..based on these two the temptation is to bin the lot!
  3. Dear Fellow Modellers I'm sure this is an old subject, what the best paints are for the RFC PC10 colour, but as a confirmed Gunze paint enthusiast I wondered if anyone had advice on a Gunze paint or mix they could offer? Thanks Andrew
  4. Does anybody have comments on the accuracy of AMMO by Mig Jiménez colours for WWII RAF aircraft? I'm fed up with buying new paint at my LMS and discovering noticeable differences when compared with the colour swatches in RAF Museum reference book British Aviation Colours of World War Two. AMMO recommends the following: Dark Earth..........................A.MIG-070 Medium Brown Dark Green.........................A.MIG-915 Dark Green Sky.....................................A.MIG-243 Sky Type S Interior Grey Green............A.MIG-219 Interior Green Ocean Grey........................A.MIG-245 Ocean Grey Medium Sea Grey..............A.MIG-246 Medium Sea Grey Middle Stone.....................A.MIG-030 Sand Yellow Azure Blue.........................A.MIG-257 Azure Blue
  5. As previously hinted at in the Compucolor/DBI thread, here's my list of the Gloy standard and authentic ranges. I'm not sure if they're complete. I suspect that the railway range isn't, judging by the gaps in the numbers, but I think that the standard and aircraft ranges are. If that's the case, I'm surprised that there weren't any post-war colours. Maybe you know something I don't! My first Gloy Authentics were bought from Ren Models in Cambridge. This would have been in the early eighties, from their Mill Road shop. I think they may have been in Burleigh Street before that, but I would have been quite young (i.e. pre-teen) and maybe only went there once or twice. Anyway, I remember that they had a large, white, wire mesh basket near the entrance that was full of heavily-discounted Gloy paints and I bought as many as I could afford. I suspect that this was the stock being offloaded once the paints had been discontinued. I'm not sure why they stopped making them, but it seems that they were made for Gloy by Henkel, so maybe it was something to do with the latter. Over they following years I managed to acquire quite a few more, to the point where I have over 400 of them! I got lucky a few years ago when somebody nearby was selling a whole load of paints, mostly Gloy, and I got 298 tins and bottles for £16! Some colours have remained elusive, whilst others I have multiples of. If anyone else has some missing colours maybe we could do swapsies? Just a thought.... I thought it quite interesting that Compucolor used at least some of the Gloy standard range colours. I wonder if there was some kind of connection between the two. This is the sort of thing that keeps me awake at night! This is what I have so far. Again, if anyone can fill in the blanks, it would be much appreciated. I think it would be useful to have a reference for those who are interested in these long-gone paints. Standard range ST/G/1 Ivory ST/G/2 Pale Grey ST/G/3 Grey ST/G/4 Dark Grey ST/G/5 Bright Poppy Red ST/G/6 Scarlet ST/G/7 Crimson ST/G/8 Maroon ST/G/9 Orange ST/G/10 Yellow ST/G/11 Mustard ST/G/12 Biscuit ST/G/13 Stone ST/G/14 Buff ST/G/15 Purple ST/G/16 Cerise ST/G/17 Lime Green ST/G/18 Foliage Green ST/G/19 Dark Green ST/G/20 Tan ST/G/21 Service Brown ST/G/22 Light Blue ST/G/23 Mid Blue ST/G/24 French Blue ST/G/25 Dark Blue ST/G/26 Silver ST/G/27 Gun Metal ST/G/28 Gold ST/G/29 Brass ST/G/30 Copper ST/G/31 Bronze ST/G/32 Metallic Green ST/G/33 Metallic Red ST/G/34 Metallic Blue ST/G/35 Gloss Polyurethane ST/G/36 Matt Polyurethane ST/G/37 Gloss Black ST/G/38 Gloss White ST/M/39 Matt Black ST/M/40 Matt White ST/M/41 Light Grey ST/M/42 Slate ST/M/43 Field Grey ST/M/44 Dark Grey ST/M/45 Olive Drab ST/M/46 Scarlet ST/M/47 Apricot ST/M/48 Sand ST/M/49 Brick Red ST/M/50 Khaki ST/M/51 Ochre ST/M/52 Dark Green ST/M/53 Blue Green ST/M/54 Grass Green ST/M/55 Blue Grey ST/M/56 Cerulean Blue ST/M/57 Dark Blue Grey ST/M/58 Cobalt Blue ST/M/59 Midnight Blue ST/M/60 Ultramarine ST/M/61 Aluminium ST/M/62 Dark Earth ST/M/63 Matt Yellow Military Aircraft range A301 RAF Dark Green A302 RAF Dark Earth A303 RAF Sky A304 RAF Medium Sea Grey A305 RAF Dark Slate Grey A306 RAF Extra Dark Sea Grey A307 RAF Sky Grey A308 RAF Yellow A309 Photographic PRU Blue A310 Ocean Grey A311 RAF Azure Blue A312 RAF Middle Stone A313 RAF Ident Red (dull) A314 RAF Ident Blue (dull) A315 RAF Ident Red (bright) A316 RAF Ident Blue (bright) A317 RAF Grey Green (internal) A318 RAF NIVO A319 USAF Dark Olive Drab No. 41 A320 USAF Olive Drab ANA613 A321 USAF Medium Green ANA612 A322 USAF Neutral Gray No. 43 A323 USAF Light Gray A324 USAF Chromate Yellow (internal) A325 USN Light Gray (pre-war) ANA620 A326 USN Blue Gray ANA603 A327 USN Intermediate Blue ANA608 A328 USN Non Specular Sea Blue ANA607 A329 USN Semi Gloss Sea Blue ANA606 A330 USN Glossy Sea Blue ANA623 A331 USN Light Gull Gray ANA620 A332 USN Dark Gull Gray ANA621 A333 USAF Sand ANA616 A334 USAF Desert Drab ANA628 A335 USAF Azure Blue ANA609 A336 USAF Interior Green ANA611 A337 USAF Insignia Yellow ANA614 A338 USAF Insignia Red ANA619 A339 USAF Insignia Blue ANA605 A340 Luftwaffe RLM 70 Schwartzgrun A341 Luftwaffe RLM 71 Dunkelgrun A342 Luftwaffe RLM 65 Hellblau A343 Luftwaffe RLM 02 Grau A344 Luftwaffe RLM 72 Grun A345 Luftwaffe RLM 73 Grun A346 Luftwaffe RLM 74 Dunkelgrau A347 Luftwaffe RLM 75 Mittelgrau A348 Luftwaffe RLM 76 Hellgrau A349 Luftwaffe RLM 79a Sandbraun A350 Luftwaffe RLM 79 Sandgelb A351 Luftwaffe RLM 78 Himmelblau A352 Luftwaffe RLM 80 Olivgrun A353 Luftwaffe RLM 28 Weinrot A354 Luftwaffe RLM 04 Gelb A355 Luftwaffe RLM 62 Grun A356 Luftwaffe RLM 61 Dunkelbraun A357 Luftwaffe RLM 63 Hellgrau A358 Luftwaffe RLM 23 Rot A359 Luftwaffe RLM 25 Hellgrun A360 Luftwaffe RLM 24 Dunkelblau A361 Airframe White A362 Airframe Black A363 Duralumin Railway range R201 GWR Loco Green R202 GWR Coach Stock Cream R203 GWR Coach Stock Windsor Brown R204 GWR Freight Stock Grey R205 GWR Loco Indian Red R206 GWR Roof White R207 LMS Crimson Lake R208 LMS Maroon R209 LMS Freight Stock Grey R210 LMS Freight Stock Dark Grey R211 LMS Freight Stock Bauxite R212 LMS Loco Black R213 LNER Darlington Loco Green R214 LNER Doncaster Loco Green R215 LNER Coach Teak R216 LNER Freight Stock Grey R217 LNER Loco Garter Blue R218 LNER Freight Red Oxide R219 SR Dark Olive Green R220 SR Light Olive Green R221 SR Loco Malachite Gteen R222 SR Freight Stock Brown R223 SR Freight Stock Stone R224 SR Brake Van End Red R225 LNWR Chocolate Lake R226 LNWR Coach White R227 CR Deep Lake R228 CR Coach White R229 LNWR Loco Black R230 CR Loco Blue R231 BR Coach Cream R232 BR Coach Crimson 1950-57 R233 BRMU Stock Cream R234 BR Coach Crimson post 1957 R235 BR Rail Grey R236 BR Rail Blue R237 GER Loco Blue R238 Smoke Box Black R239 Buffer Beam Vermilion R240 Roof Grey R241 SECR Brunswick Green R242 Brilliant Lake R243 Signal Red R244 Signal Yellow R245 Black R246 White R247 Lining Orange R248 Lining Yellow R249 Copper R250 Brass R251 Polished Steel R252 Oily Steel R253 Unpainted Steel R254 Aluminium Alloy R255 Earth Road Red R256 Rail Colour R257 Sleeper Brown R258 Underframe Dirt R259 BR Frame Red-Brown R260 BR Rail Red R261 Lining Gold R262 Pullman Cream R263 Pullman Umber R264 Grey Etch Primer Cheers, Mark.
  6. Has anyone built the above model? If so, can you tell me what colour #7 (sections 11-a, 17, 17-a, 25 and 42-a) is supposed to be? There is no indication of this colour either on the box or in the build instructions. I have assumed it is white (goggles on pilots and lower struts on undercarriage), but I'm not too sure this is the correct colour for the attached bomb (section 42-a). I have checked scalemates to see if they list the instructions, but to no avail and have also emailed the company, but no answer as yet. Thanks in advance.
  7. Title says it all. I've tried searching loads of paint conversion charts to no avail, so I'm asking the BM collective brain if anyone has an idea of which paint is a good equivalent to (German) RAL 5010, described as gentian blue? It's for a scheme for an Austrian Air Force Pilatus PC -6 turbo porter with decals from Brent Air Decals. thanks in advance for any help.
  8. Hello everyone, I have a large bottle of tamiya x-20a. I am going to paint a 1/24 car in a lacquer paint. Do I need lacquer thinner or will the x-20a work? Also, what sort of ratio would you suggest?
  9. So I found out my go to enamel paint for Modern US subjects, Model Master, is being discontinued. Any suggestions on a paint brand I should try that’s accurate for modern US aircraft? MRP? AK? Hataka? Gunze?
  10. I'm now at the crucial stage of painting the upper surfaces of my SH Kittyhawk 1a so looking for some advice please in terms of the correct/best enamels to use for the mid-stone and dark earth having opted for Humbrol's 157 Azure Blue for the underside as this looks about right from colourised photos of the period, accepting these are not entirely reliable My dilemma is that I have a number of brands in my paint stash that I could use as follows: Dark Earth: Humbrol 29 : Xtracolor X002/BS450 Mid Stone: Humbrol 84 : Humbrol HB12 (very old tin) : Xtracolor X009 : Revell 16 On cursory inspection the Xtracolor looks best for Mid Stone and the Humbrol for the Dark Earth but would welcome some advice. I know there are plenty more paint options out there that are acrylic but I only use enamels as they are what I've always used in the past and feel confident with given that this is my first model to get to this stage in many years so don't want to muck it up (hopefully not famous last words). Regards Colin.
  11. I thought I would add this here as I had bought some MRP paint and love it, it really sprays beautifully. But that's not why I posted this. I have little white plastic card that I spray a bit of every color I bought and have lots of Tamiya. Of note if anyone needs it MRP's PC-10 Late is virtually the same color as Tamiya XF-51 Khaki Drab. The Tamiya is flat while MRP is satin/semi gloss but the two colors are very very close. Just thought this might be interesting as MRP can be tough to get in some places.
  12. Hey, so I have this problem with Revell colors. I've bought Revell enamel matt 37 for the surface to look, well, matt. But that isn't the case as you can see in the pictures. The red color appears glossy. Now, I've put a matt 69 besides it for comparison, so you can clearly see the difference. I don't know what is going on. Could this be a mistake by Revell or did I do something wrong? Model looks kinda ruined for me now, because everything should have matt finish (it's a Boba Fett Slave I by Revell by the way). Is there any way to safe it? I have some varnish... Also, the paint has been drying for more than 24h, that is important for you to know. So, what to do?
  13. Good morning everyone , I have a very small question regarding Vallejo model air and their other products like their primer , should they still smell after they have dried? It’s been a good few days and the model is still a bit wiffy after giving it a sniff I am also a noob at airbrushing so another question is once I have sprayed a coat do I leave it to dry like brushpainting or can I just go over it straight away
  14. I use pipettes to transfer paint from the bottle to the airbrush or mixing cup. I've been getting a bit fed up with the number of them that have been littering the spraybooth. Yesterday I finally got around to drawing up and cutting a stand to hold them tidily and out of the way. I'm not sure if others have this issue or not, but if anybody would be interested in this stand please let me know and we can get it added to the product range. Cheers
  15. Hello, after many years of not building a Model Aircraft kit I decided to buy one. Its a Revell Yak - 3 1:72 Level 3 kit. My question is the box says 10 tins of paint but the instructions say 12. Which is correct and also where is the cheapest place to but it? Thank You
  16. Hi all... Slight diversion from modelling this weekend as I had to spray the wing mirror casing on my car (satin black) - don't ask! Paint has gone on well but the final coat is left feeling a bit rough to the touch. Is there anything I can get that I can polish it smooth without damaging the paint (was thinking micromesh?) - if so, some guidance on what to buy would be most welcome. Thank you all. GK
  17. As per title. I could do with some help to find a shade of brown paint. For reasons I'll not go into I'd like a pot 'off-the-shelf' and not have to mix anything. Gloss, matt, or semi-matt/gloss, doesn't matter as it will get varnished over Acrylic or enamel The shade I require is a reddish or orangey tawny brown More reddish or orangey than Humbrol 9 Gloss Tan, but about that degree of luminescence or a bit lighter, but not darker I can get locally; Humbrol, enamel & acrylic Vallejo, Model Colour only Revell, acrylic only Tamiya, most, but not all in the acrylic range Any suggestions are welcome Thanks Fred
  18. Two drawer paint storage unit for 36ml Bottles EBMA Hobby & Craft We all have a larger stash of paint than we think we have, and finding storage for it is not always easy. There are the vertical racks (Which EBMA do as well) however some of us (me included) prefer drawers for paint. EBMA have created their own line of racks, drawers and tool storage etc made from MDF that are pre-cut ready for assembly. These are designed for the typical bottles used by Gunze and Tamiya and hold 33 bottles per drw, so 66 in total Filled with my Gunze paints to give an idea of use Construction is simple, and will require some PVA to glue the sections together, and having some clamps handy will be a boon for getting strong joints. The joints will also be stronger if you use proper woodworking PVA glue, which can be sourced online easily and cheaply if you’re in need. Instructions are found online to save paper and cost, and yes you do really need to look at them. If you have built any kind of flat pack you already know this! This set like many others from EBMA comes with little magnets which you can use for to keep more than one of their modular units together. Conclusion This is a well designed storage system for all modellers which will help keep your paints where you want them, with the added advantage they fit together. EBMA also do a wide range of these for most of the paint bottles/jars currently available. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  19. Hi All I am currently building the Airfix Jet Provost T.4 (A02107) and I have a question regarding the colours for the (A) scheme - which appears to be a “low-vis” scheme. The Humbrol number / name suggested for the underside is 28 / Matt Camouflage Grey - which the instructions state is an approximate match to BC381C 626 (Barley Grey). However, Humbrol 28 is only available as an enamel and I very much prefer to use acrylics (Humbrol ones mostly). I’m not overly precious about colour accuracy but would at least like to be in the right ballpark So - my questions really are - does Humbrol 28 sound/look right for this type of scheme based on other's knowledge / experience? If so, can anyone suggest an acrylic alternative. If not, what should be considered the “correct” BS colour? Many thanks. P.S. I thought maybe the instructions were wrong and I should use Humbrol 167/Satin Barley Grey (which IS available in acrylic) but… Humbrol 167 is meant to be a match for BS-18-B-21 (or BS639) - so not the same BS number that Airfix are suggesting - nor do these two colours (from the Humbrol tin) look the same - so I suspect the instructions are OK. I understand that Barley Grey was later renamed to Camouflage grey (in the real world) but that only makes matters more confusing!
  20. Hi Guys, I have the Tamiya 1/700 Scharnhorst kit to build, and I'm after some info on camouflage / colour schemes for the kit. The model has an enclosed bridge, which I understand was fitted after the channel dash, and I've seen photos of her with dark superstructure and hull, but with light bow and stern. I've also seen pictures of a rather elaborate camouflage pattern, so my question is what would be correct for this model ? I do have the Snyder and Short Kriegsmarine colour chips, so I would be able to refer to them if needs be.
  21. For the Luftwaffe experten, I would be grateful for thoughts on which paint manufacturers offer the best representation of the following: RLM 81 RLM 74/75 I mostly use Xtracolor, but the 81 they offer looks too green to be Braunviolett (I know there are variations). Meanwhile the 74 and 75 appear too close in hue and offer much less contrast than is apparent on period photos. I recently had a go with a couple of random other greys, which gave (I felt) a better result (as shown here - NB it's not finished yet!). I would be very grateful for advice or recommendations.
  22. Aluminium Palette (AK613) AK Interactive Paint mixing is a chore if you’re always struggling to find a suitable surface, which makes palettes a desirable tool, especially if they have multiple wells so you can keep a number of shades of the same base colour on the go at once. Will 10 wells do you? Well? That’s how many you get in this utilitarian 17cm diameter (6.75”) palette that’s available from AK. The wells are arranged in a circle and it is supplied in a clear bag with header card with no frills. Aluminium ensures that it’s rugged, and well able to stand up to multiple trips to paint-town, and it would probably also stand up to a journey through your dishwasher, but don’t tell your other half I said that. The wells are pressed into the surface, and a central flat, stepped area can be used for further mixing if you desire. The outer edge is rolled under to prevent injury and to give the palette some extra rigidity that shows when you flex it. That’s it. I can’t think of anything else to say about it, other than the fact that it is also cheaply priced so that if you leave your paint too long and can’t be bothered cleaning up (you terrible person!), it’s almost disposable. Conclusion Speaking as a modeller that scratches about for somewhere to mix paint for detail painting or touch-ups, this is a handy thing to have around. Buy one or lots, just don’t play frisbee with them! Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  23. Hi guys, What method do you use for holding/storing your models while they're drying? At the moment I'm using a black plastic base which has rows of holes in it. It's designed to be used with alligator clips mounted on metal sticks which you then poke into the holes, but A) the clips that came with it are way too strong and would warp/snap any part I'd hold with them, and B ) The holes in the base seem to have some sort of obstruction in them meaning the metal sticks need to be pushed really hard for them to sit in place, so I've resorted to just using wooden toothpicks poked into the holes to balance the model on, which is a bit too wobbly and hardly secure enough for my liking. Also, depending on the paint finish, the toothpicks actually end up sticking to the model a lot of the time. All drying in my flat is kept in a very handy seed propagator (think; mini greenhouse) due to the presence of a fuzz ball of a cat, so I'm looking for a method which would fit inside this propagator (I would say it's about 30cm high, 50cm long and 30cm wide). Could you show me your methods or tell me about products I could look into, please?
  24. I've found lots of posts on various sites recommending what thinners to use with what paints either off the shelf or home brew, but it there a consolidated list or matrix anywhere that I can reference?
  25. Hi Everyone, I'm wondering how I should paint the following piece(s), it's the cockpit window for a Spitfire. How do people generally tackle this?
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