Ju 88 1:32

[silverburn]

Ok, my second ever submission to RFI...

Caveats:

- No Airbrush; I've been using sprays. It's "ok", slight colour issues aside. And the Montana Gold is very thick - tricky to get an even coat.

- I know my glass is rubbish - for some reason I ended up with tons of dust inside! And a cotton bud only seem to make it worse!

- This was another test bed, given this is only my 2nd model. It's been a real learning experience!

Issues encountered:

- Paint is tricky when using only sprays; getting the right colours alone was tricky, but the worst thing was the finish; it could be rough or smooth, and laying soot over rough makes it go mental (see side of engines). I am dreading my next one, which requires "fuzzy" cammo. Hmmm....

- A fair bit of filling and sanding required, and my technique needs work

- The dusty glass

- The "bogey man" deposited a thumb print in the side decal while the laquer was drying.

- I lost 2 of the landing gear door side bars, inside. Better tweezers required, methinks

- Still need more practise with weathering; it's getting better, but I still need to work on consistency - its too thick or thin in places

- bomb hangers (not in kit btw) + bombs - resin was pretty out of shape; the hangers needed a lot of work on fit and finish. Oh, and fit them last; it's a nightmare trying to do soot around them! :-)

Anyway...to the pictures! If you want to see specifics...give me a shout, and I'll fire it on.

Edited December 15, 2009 by silverburn

[Maxidad]

Looks like a winner from these pictures. The exhaust stains look slightly over-stated, other than that it's very nice indeed. Congrats!

(PS. I always find it hard to avoid dust on the canopies; this always looks worse in photos than in real life. If you soak them in Klear/Future for extra shine, put them under a bowl/cover until try, and keep them out of the way when you're filing or sanding).

[silverburn]

Looks like a winner from these pictures. The exhaust stains look slightly over-stated, other than that it's very nice indeed. Congrats!

Totally agree - I'm putting it down to the Spray paint I used (Montana Gold); it was very thick/sticky stuff, and made it really difficult to get a smooth, light finish. If it was an airbrush, I imagine it would be easy to solve with some thinner added (caveat: I'm a newbie and know nothing about them!). In some areas it was like sandpaper (have a look at the build thread for a close up). I'll need to wary next time or find "finer" sprays.

No, I can't afford an airbrush...yet. ;-)

[FalkeEins]

..yes you can - the Premi Air G35 is a great little dual action airbrush that retails for around £30..thats about six spray cans worth..

still great job on your 88....what can/colour did you use the lower surfaces ?

[silverburn]

..yes you can - the Premi Air G35 is a great little dual action airbrush that retails for around £30..thats about six spray cans worth..

still great job on your 88....what can/colour did you use the lower surfaces ?

ooh, I'll start dropping unsubtle christmas presents hints then, I recon...

Sprays used are:

Montana Gold - Flipper (underside)

Montana Gold - Military Green (cammo 1)

Montana Gold - Army Green (cammo 2)*

* should have used Montana Gold - Anthracite or Slate.

[Mike]

Hey, given the issues you say you encountered, I'd say that's pretty damn good. I wouldn't know where to start using rattle cans

[Maxidad]

I have an airbrush, but even then I don't always use it for exhaust stains. A cheap and very effective method is to use chalk pastels. Just go to your nearest craft shop and buy a black and grey and a brown. You scrape the end of the pastels with a blade to get 3 separate little piles of chalk powder, mix them until you have the shade that looks right and apply, dry, with an old, fine brush to the model. This works better on a matt surface. The powder adheres little by little to the surface and you have total control. At first it looks like nothing is happening, but it builds up slowly - be patient.

I have read that people "fix" it with hairsray, but I just go over the whole thing with whatever varnish I am using - matt, satin of gloss. You can use this for dirtying up panel lines too.

[silverburn]

I have an airbrush, but even then I don't always use it for exhaust stains. A cheap and very effective method is to use chalk pastels. Just go to your nearest craft shop and buy a black and grey and a brown. You scrape the end of the pastels with a blade to get 3 separate little piles of chalk powder, mix them until you have the shade that looks right and apply, dry, with an old, fine brush to the model. This works better on a matt surface. The powder adheres little by little to the surface and you have total control. At first it looks like nothing is happening, but it builds up slowly - be patient.

I have read that people "fix" it with hairsray, but I just go over the whole thing with whatever varnish I am using - matt, satin of gloss. You can use this for dirtying up panel lines too.

I've got some Tamiya pastels now - used to good effect on my 1:32 Martlet (a test rig). Exhaust soot on this one looks far better, though I've seen real photos of the martlet/wildcat with *very* sooty bellies!

[HOUSTON]

WOW !!!!

[SLAVE]

OK I'm beginning to think you're a sandbagger.

Your 2ND KIT??

Oh man, I think I'm going to have to retire to some beach hotel somewhere and sell my stash!

Great job mate!! Keep up the super work and you'll be a contest winner in no time!!

Cheers

SLAVE

[Erwin]

Hi,

Very nice...but no swastika !

Not starting a debate on it. Just IMO a German plane needs one.

[F-32]

That ones definately a keeper, very nice build.

[silverburn]

Cheers for all the compliments guys - good to know I'm on the right tracks!

[silverburn]

Added swastikas to the tail...

(ignore the dust btw...)

Alongside my current work in progress - a Ju 87. Also with added swastikas!

Edited December 15, 2009 by silverburn

[Hypnobear]

Looks really good!! Like the Stuka too!

WW2 German planes always look better with their swastikas on them.

[woody37]

I have an airbrush, but even then I don't always use it for exhaust stains. A cheap and very effective method is to use chalk pastels. Just go to your nearest craft shop and buy a black and grey and a brown. You scrape the end of the pastels with a blade to get 3 separate little piles of chalk powder, mix them until you have the shade that looks right and apply, dry, with an old, fine brush to the model. This works better on a matt surface. The powder adheres little by little to the surface and you have total control. At first it looks like nothing is happening, but it builds up slowly - be patient.

I have read that people "fix" it with hairsray, but I just go over the whole thing with whatever varnish I am using - matt, satin of gloss. You can use this for dirtying up panel lines too.

I rub the chalk pastels on a piece of sand paper or wet and dry and use a brush to mix them (dry of course !). Imagine your sheet of wet and dry as a mixing palllet. I start off with a very light covering by brushing the brush against the sand paper to remove most of the dust before applying it. You can build up the density as you choose from there.

Something I jave got better at is rubbing the surface down with very fine wet and dry after varnishing, before applying pastel to prevent that inevitable build up around sticky up bits !!!

Hope that helps.

Neil

[Maxidad]

Silverburn,

I think you're being very hard on yourself - these German a/c you've built are really excellent, especially considering they are only your 2nd and 3rd kits. Even then they are good by any standard. Dust is very hard to avoid and always shows up in close-ups.

Try and invest in an airbrush when you can - there are bargains to be had - you don't have to go for the top of the range. The compressor is usually the more expensive bit. Just start saving now - if you're going to stay in the hobby, it's an investment. It takes quite a bit of practice to use an airbrush with ease - I'd advise very simple camo patterns first, and gradually move to trickier subjects. This for example was only about my third kit with an airbrush:

I won't say it's perfect, but with patience and practice on scrap white card or plastic, you can achieve quite fine patterns. And of course use it for pre-shading, which adds depth to the finished paint job; for example:

Edited December 15, 2009 by Maxidad

[Erwin]

Nice work.

But as I pointed out in your STUKA topic too.

The swastika is to small. Should be 2 cm. (see link)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...unkers_Ju88.jpg

Edited December 16, 2009 by Erwin

[silverburn]

Nice work.

But as I pointed out in your STUKA topic too.

The swastika is to small. Should be 2 cm. (see link)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...unkers_Ju88.jpg

Cool - an easy fix since these aren't sealing in yet! A quick dust too (it's only surface dust btw Maxidad - thank goodness!) and away we go.

gotta say though...that link looks very photo-shopped? Check out the lack of rear wheel, the overly white swastika, and the strangely placed cross under the port wing. And the distinct lack of a/c numbers. And the shiny (ie clean) tyres in what is transparently a boggy field, given the amount of settlement.

It's still a valid shout though - here's another to compare.

Edited December 16, 2009 by silverburn