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      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

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Found 163 results

  1. I've decided to put my other Work in Progress on the back burner for a while because I am missing one vital part.....enthusiasm! So while the Centaur becomes a Shelf Queen for a while, I'm going to make a start on Tamiya's IDF Sherman M1. M1's were based on M4A1 76mm tanks and the majority of them came from French stock. Tamiya released this kit a few years ago and is bit of a mixed bag. Two of the sprues are a bit long in the tooth and originated in 1987, first appearing in Tamiya's M4 and then the M4A3. The small sprue for the .50 cal.mg is a bit more up to date, 1998. When the M1 was released in 2011, Tamiya included two new sprues which included a new upper hull and a new turret, along with a couple of IDF crew figures. Another good thing they did was to include parts to fill in the open sponsons, something that had been lacking on Tamiya Shermans. Unfortunately, they still used the original lower hull which has a problem, albeit a small one, with the base plates for the suspension units. This is best illustrated by the two photos further down. The VVSS is also not the best available. Because of this small problem, I decided to use the lower hull and running gear from Dragon's M4 Hybrid. Most M1's used T54E1 tracks, but the one that I wanted to depict used T49 tracks, so once again I placed an order with Panda tracks for their set. I've used their products twice before and they make up into a very nice set of tracks. It pays though either to purchase Pandas track assembly jig or make your own. I did the latter and it makes a hell of a difference. In addition to what I have shown, I also bought a set of decals from Sabingamartin for the M1, and an M1A2 76mm main gun from RB Models. I chose this manufacturers main gun because it includes the muzzle brake, something that Aber doesn't do. You have to graft on the brake from the kit. The next two photos show the nearly thirty year old sprues. The next two photos show the newer (2011) sprues and the 1998 mg sprue. In this photo can be seen the lower hull and VVSS from the Dragon M4 Hybrid. Finally, these two photos show the discrepancy between the left and right side VVSS base plates. So, now to get some work done. Regards, John.
  2. I took the unusual decision (for me that is), to build two models of the same tank, one as it was during 1944, and one as it is now. Champagne was an early M4A3 (76mm) and served with the 12eme Regiment de Chasseurs d'Afrique, 2eme DB. It was knocked out during the Battle of Dompaire. It is preserved as a monument in the town of ViIle-sur-Illon. The first model that I built was of Champagne in 1944, and for that I used parts from several kits. The upper and lower hull are Tamiya's M4A3 (75mm), but it is the large hatch version. The turret came from Asuka but I still had to source the main gun. Champagne was fitted with one of the early M1A1 unthreaded 76mm guns and I made this from a Formations threaded barrel with a piece of plastic tubing glued to the end. The transmission housing and running gear are all from the Dragon M4 (105mm) kit. The tracks are from Panda. The exhaust deflector which comes with the kit, is a little on the thick side, so I made a new one from 10thou card. I also made a new folding stowage shelf from card for the same reason. The commanders hatch and the loaders hatch are both Dragon. Other additions were the bump stops for the engine doors, the armoured blower vent on the rear of the turret, the rebuilt vent between the hull hatches, the extra "lifting" ring on the turret, seen on early 76mm turrets along with the 2" mortar tube, gun lock and spare track holders from Dragon, plus umpteen other improvements/additions, including Eduard etched brass. It was painted with Tamiya acrylics, decals are Bison and I used Carr's weathering powders. All I have to do now is build it all over again. But it will be quite different. Thanks for looking. John.
  3. Hello, here is my latest model, a 1/35 Tiger II from Dragon. I have added Voyager PE for the exteriour and the skirts, a RB barrel and antenna and home made Zimmerit. The figures are from Mini Art. The model depicts tank "233" from s.Pz.Abt. 503 in Budapest. You can find several pictures of this particular tank online and in books, f.e. in "Tigers at the front" by T. Jentz. This allowed me to reconstruct most of the paint scheme. Only the upper surfaces, the lower glacis plate and the rear hull plate had to be improvised. I also tried to match the tools and the weathering to the photos, which depict a heavily worn turret upper surface. Here are some pictures: Reference: (source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/archive/9/9c/20110118202031!Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-680-8282A-03A%2C_Budapest%2C_Panzer_VI_(Tiger_II%2C_Königstiger).jpg) Reference: (source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/archive/5/58/20110118202602!Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-680-8282A-06%2C_Budapest%2C_Panzer_VI_(Tiger_II%2C_Königstiger).jpg) Comments and critisism are welcome! Best regards, Thorsten
  4. I have Dragon's 1/72 M4A3 105mm Sherman kit and want to make it into a 75mm M4A3 Sherman. I picked up Aber's metal gun barrel, but I suspect that there might be a little more to this than just swapping out gun barrels. Can anyone enlighten me further?
  5. So, the 8.8 Flak is awaiting a sprue so, behold the half built glory of the T28/95. Im going with it being about 40% done as there are a lot of road wheels to make and quite a few sub assemblies. Heres what it looked and looks like now An this is what my kit is like now.
  6. Hello Chaps, During my recent spate of "Hairy Stick" painting, I came across this kit buried in my stash with 3 other 1/144 scale kits. They were buried for good reason- i generally prefer large scale models that I see better with my aging eyes. But, I must have been going through a patch of masochistic delirium and decided to have a go. But that said, after wearing 4x magnification Opti-Visors during the whole build so that I could "see" what I was attempting, then taking them off at the end, my vision was blurred for a few days after trying to readjust. So, I'll never attempt one again! I completed this build during the first week of this month (February 2017). I got lazy with this one and didn't attempt any scratch-building in the cockpit! Astonishingly enough, this kit included some stencils which were hardly visible with magnification, let alone with the naked eye, the main decals were the size of the average stencil! The kit includes movable wings, so the photos below will show some images where the wings are both open and closed. The last 4 photos include two with the model next to a US Quarter coin- slightly smaller than a UK 10 pence coin and two with the model next to my Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa to provide an idea of scale and how small this model is.... If you'd like to watch my YouTube "Build Video" for this model, there here is the link to it: Thanks in advance for looking at this post and the video, if you should watch that, and for any comments left, much appreciated! In the meantime, until my next build presentation ( Italeri 1/72 F-16 A/B NATO Falcon), happy modeling! Cheers, Martin
  7. Mistel V using the DML carriage and bomb, and a HUMA Junkers EF.128 jabo in place of the Salamander.
  8. Good afternoon (on my part of the globe), gentlemen. This model was somewhat an opportunistic purchase; I won the kit at USD 15 in a local auction. Some times later I got a kit with a suitable theme so I made a dual build of those two. Therefore I decided the Komet would be in the whole RLM 23 scheme flown by Wolfgang Späte. The kit originally comes with engine parts but for simplicity reason I opted to build a closed-up fuselage. I was lacking in references, I should've smoothed out the seam between vertical tail and fuselage. I got troubled with some of the decals, hence some silvering can be seen (e.g. Balkenkreuze under the port-side wing) Unfortunately, for this project I didn't make a WiP documentation. And here's its dual build counterpart, I chose to paint both of them RLM23 Red, one is literally Red Komet, the other is piloted by "Red Comet", and to me personally, both are awesome machines (and kits). Should I post another article for the counterpart? Cheers, ZM
  9. Hi Guys, Here are some pictures of a model that I placed last year in the Telford (SMW) competition. I have also included the card that I used for this model, so that you know the hole story behind it. The card. Horten Ho-229 C1 Flown by Oberst Martin Drewes Kommodore NJG 1 November 1945 Rheine, Germany Donor kit: Dragon Ho-229 one seater and Ho-229 two seater Decals: The decals are from different sources some are from a Sky decal sheet and the individual letter is from a old 1/72 Revell sheet?! The stencils are from donor kit. Paint: Gunze and Tamiya paint. Changes: The nose was replaced with a “Berlin”nose for a Ju-88 G6 from Quickboost. The front top fuselage of the two seater was sawn of and mated with the back top fuselage of the one seater. This gave some problems with the engine placing etc. But that was all corrected and also the two MK 103 guns were used from the one seater. The gun barrels were a left over from a Do-335 conversion (CMK). I also used a Etch set from Reheat. History: On the 6th of June 1944 the Allied landed in Normandy. But instead of having succes, they were thrown back into the sea. The Allies needed to do a new build up after the heavy losses and there wouldn’t be a new invasion until May 1945. This gave the Germans enough time to halt the Russians near the Polish bourder. This also gave them enough time to bring the Me-262, Ar-234 and the Ho-229 into play. The losses of bombers for the Allies was to great and they would have to wait till the Americans could bring their B-29’s over. What If: The Germans were still having some trouble with the RAF bombers at night. So to have a new night fighter they brought the two seat Horten Ho-229 flying wing forward as a new night fighter. They used a converted “Berlin”radar nose from the Ju 88 G6 to give the night fighter some better performance. NJG 1 was the first unit to get the new Horten night fighter. They were placed at the staf disposall from NJG 1. As a very experienced night fighter and new Commander of NJG 1, Oberst Martin Drewes was the first to fly one from Rheine Air base in the defence of the Ruhr valley. Here are some pictures of the model. Cheers,
  10. My year so far, it started with the Sabre models Platformwagen then the ICM JU 88. Then onto the Eastern Front (GPW) GB, once I've finished my MTO build that will be my modelling year complete. Depending how quick I can build an Avenger? Panzer IV Eastern Front Group Build, Platformwagen general build. Eastern Front Group Build. Joint second with Stix. JU 88 Group Build. What keeps me in plastic kits, a presentation I painted from my previous unit. It's a chap holding a Desert Hawk lll Remotely Piloted Aircraft flown by the British Army. MTO Group Build.
  11. Share my old build, Dragon 1/35 Sd Kfz 250/1 Neu. Although the kits titled Sd Kfz 250/1 NEU, but according to some build preview I read, the interior parts provided was a mix of 250/1 & 250/5. No matter build into which option also missing something... I chose to build it into 250/1, because it's not a good idea to scratch build the whole set of missing radio at the rear side of 250/5's interior. By following the references I searched on-line, I looking for unused parts from previous build 251 and the kits itself, and build the interior more into 250/1. I left quite some PE parts unused because those parts are for 250/5's interior. Canvas tarp provided in the kits was too thick and if using it I have to take out the rear machine gun holder, so I made my own canvas tarp from A+B bondite. I also add some field modified foliage tiedown by refer to WW2 photos. Branches are roots of grasses, leaves cut from pre-painted different shade green paper, glued one by one. Actually the tarp can be taken out, but I didn't shoot photos of interior. Thanks for viewing, please feel free to critic and comment.
  12. Hello and thanks for your interest. Here's my 1/72 Dragon Sherman M4A3, with stowage items from Blackdog, Quickboost and my spares box. Painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics, weathered with artists oils and pastel chalks. Photographed by Wolfgang Rabel, IGM Cras & Bikes. I forgot to add the antenna .... *DOH* At least you know where it's supposed to be! # Thanks for your interest. Cheers from Vienna!
  13. Has anyone else seen the Dragon 1/35 scale AT-AT and have any better information than that on the Dragon website. all i found was a picture, no measurements or anything so no idea of sizes or anything?
  14. Hi All, Dragon's diminutive Panzer Korps series of vehicles looked interesting so had a go at giving a couple a go. The kit (2 tanks to a box) has photo etch and good detail for scale so below is the result of a bit of fun. The rubber tracks aren't though. Happy Modelling all. Ian
  15. Hi guys, I've started a new project, Dragon's Stug III G with zimmerit. I will be building a small vignette with a few British soldiers moving past the abandoned stug. I've almost finished building the Stug, just waiting for a CMK engine set to arrive. I'ts a great kit and very well detailed. The only real issue I found was that there are no locating holes on the superstructure or fenders for the side skirt mounts. Not an issue for this build as I won't be using them but if you do use them they have to be located by eye. Also the hole in the mantlet on my kit was smaller than the barrel so had to be drilled out. Apart from that it all goes together well This is certainly one of those kits that is built in sub-assemblies. Thankfully the fit is spot on so painting each assembly separately is a certainly an option. It's especially helpful if you are adding an engine bay and painting the interior. I'm going to make a start on the figures while I wait for the engine. I haven't really tackled figures before so this should be interesting! Cheers Matt
  16. Sturmgeschutz III ausf. G. 1/35th Dragon Imperial Series. My first (successful) 'Down and dirty' AFV, with heavily weathered winter camo, wear and tear, and a little bit of battle damage. A loyal fan of Tamiya between 1975-1980 and sticking with them upon my return to modelling just over a year ago, I have been made aware of the rise in popularity of Dragon kits. So whilst visiting my LHS, I was tempted to give Dragon's 'Imperial Series' StuG III a go. I wasn't to know that the kit had been sitting on the shelf for 21 years and wasn't a patch on Tamiya. Perhaps I should have guessed. The shelf was so high it took a step ladder to reach. Never mind, I thought, it can't be THAT bad. Well, it wasn't GOOD. The kit had many fit issues, badly designed moulds, parts with locating pins that didn't align with the locating holes in adjacent parts, one part that was clearly designed with an angle in it when it should have been straight, drive wheels where the teeth on one 'rim' are spaced very slightly differently to those on the other 'rim' so that the teeth go out of synch and the tracks end up at a slant' and the same issue with the spokes on the idler wheels, an unhelpful and vague instruction sheet, and sprues which quite frankly confused the hell out of me, with 3 'B' sprues (Two identical, but the third different!) and several sprues which had TWO letter designations! Another annoying feature or should I say non-feature, was the lack of any figures. Still, there was no problem that I couldn't overcome, even with my limited skills. I even managed to the upgrade the 'debris screens' on the rear air intakes, cutting out the solid 'grills', retaining the frames and fitting sections of gauze obtained from a local Haberdashers. Apart from the debris screens, the StuG is OOB and painted using Tamiya Acrylics, Humbrol Enamels, Humbrol Weathering Powders, and Winsor and Newton's water mixable Titanium White Oil Paint. Gloss and matt varnishes were also from Winsor and Newton. Snow effect achieved with my Japanese 'Grit Paint' White. Exposed metal effect/burnishing achieved with a graphite stick. For WIP, here's the link: This StuG will feature in a diorama which will be based loosely on a Francois Verlinden diorama that I saw in a Tamiya catalogue some 35 or more years ago. Only mine will be set in winter, not summer, in the Ardennnes during the Battle of the Bulge. Meanwhile, I have just commenced building Tamiya's StuG IV Sd.Kfz.163, which already looks to be faultless. Anyhoo, here's the pics. Below: Top and bottom halves not fixed, hence gap in front armour plate. (I will need access to fix a figure inside, just visible through the open hatch) Yep, forgot to matt the spare wheels and I can see MG needs tidying up. Thanks Macro. Cat hair on spare wheel replicated using real cat hair. TFL All comments, positive or negative, welcomed. Rearguards, Badder
  17. I rarely make armour (this is my third in about 15 years of modelling) but this kit and PE combo was going cheap in China so i bought it on a whim. Eight years after starting, assembly is complete! It's the Dragon Porsche turret kit with Voyager PE set. The Zimmerit is a resin set from Cavalier Model Productions. I thought it was excellent. The barrel is from Lion Roar. That's it so far, ready for paint. I'm going for a three-colour scheme which is probably fictitious and may offend the purists! Al
  18. So the next project, this has been sitting around my workshop for about 5 years, I started it but never finished it, like so many things in my life Lets have another crack at it then, see if I can finish this time. So Eduard PE set, Modelkasten spare tracks , fruil tracks and a corrected Armour Scale barrel. More later. Dan
  19. This won't be a full WIP, more of a 'mostly built and painting in progress'. When I first started model-making in my early teens (late 70's) I was purely into Tamiya. There really was no better. Then life got in the way and model-making ceased for 35yrs. So imagine my surprise when I took to model-making again, joined this site, and found that Tamiya were no longer the be-all-and-end-all in model-making. I nevertheless stuck with what I knew and proceeded to get back into the swing of things with several Tamiya kits, all of which were around back in the day. So, it was with some trepidation that I made my first foray into kits other than Tamiya. I had in fact been tempted to part with my cash by Dragon's StuG III ausf G. I'd seen some Dragon kits on BM and they looked quite good to me. Still, it felt like a gamble. And so it proved to be. What I HADN'T realised until I got home and opened the box, was that this particular kit had been sitting on the shop shelf (requiring a step ladder to reach) for 21 yrs. (Dragon's 'Imperial Series'...1995) To say that some of the tooling was poor is an understatement. Locating pins on wheel inners and outers don't actually locate the parts correctly and so had to be removed. This stood for ALL wheels, idlers, drive and road wheels. Not a good start. Worse still, the inner and outer wheels (for the idlers and drives) do not actually mate up correctly at all. Line up one inner tooth with an outer on the drive wheel and the rest gradually go out of synch, and similar occurs with the spokes on the idler wheels. I managed a kind of compromise with the drive wheels, where there is only the slightest disparity where it matters.. but with the idler wheels this was not possible as the spokes are in plain sight. I basically had to glue them into 'the best of the worst' positions and then file down the spokes to hide the misalignments as best I could. They are therefore a bit messy and noticeably thinner than would otherwise be. More problems were encountered, again with locating pins/slots etc not lining up properly or being absent. The right pain in the whatsit though were the sprues. I'm used to individual sprues being marked 'a' 'b' 'c' etc. What I'm not used to though are single sprues marked with 'a' AND 'i', meaning that there were 'a' and 'i' parts on the same sprue! The same was true for 'h' and 'e' parts. I was also confused by the three 'b' sprues, one of which was completely different from the other two. And the instruction sheet... if a bunch of very ambiguous drawings can be called such, sometimes confused matters further. I find it really helpful to see the part to be fixed IN SITU. An arrow pointing vaguely to an area of the model is NOT very helpful. At least show the newly added part in the next panel? Nooooo, you'll maybe have to refer to the very final plan and side views on the last page. Oh, and some of the sprues were warped, probably with age and gravity. ANYHOOOOOOOOOOO... moan over. Here's a few pics....There are some earlier pics to add, but it's way past my bedtime so I will post them later. Above... pig's head roughened up with stippled poly cement and everything primed. Above... pre-primed...replace the kit's debris grill with fine mesh material... adding damage to the debris grill... ooh and let's get rid of those mould lines on the brackets while we are at it. Above.... replace lost tiny part with white plasticard. Notice that the rearmost arm for holding the side skirts has a distinct bend in it (moulded that way, not damage) and that this differs from its counterpart on the other side, AND from the instruction sheet/parts diagram/photos of finished model. Soak with poly and gradually bend into a straighter shape. Above.. skipped a few photos here, but I will find them. Base coat Dark Yellow. Camo added, Red-Brown and Dark Green. Overspray with chipping fluid, overspray with White. Rub back white with wet brush. Overspray with gloss acrylic varnish, add decals. Apply washes and pin-washes of dark brown, red brown. TFL Badder
  20. We have got some fantastic bargains on selected Dragon kits here at Wonderland Models. First of all there is the huge Dragon 1/6 M4A3(105 Howitzer) Tank kit which we have at nearly half price, down from £474.99 to £249.99. Stocks are limited so get your orders in quickly. We also have the Dragon 1/35 MIM-104F Patriot SAM M901 PAC-3 Launch System which we have reduced from £84.99 down to £39.99 Again we hope to have these on our stand at Scale Model World Telford.
  21. Hi, Today I've finished this scratch work, which I started exactly year ago (23 Nov 2014) . This was on WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234971246-de-havilland-dh-84-dragon-and-dh-90-dragonfly-scratch-conv-172/ , togetehr with scratch build of DH 90 Dragongfly. From begining I was intending to do it as RAAF ambulance A34-54, from time when she served in New Guinea operational theater. During build I was temptated by another RAAF mashine (not ambulance) as well as by Abissynian ambulance from war agianst Italians, finally I returned to A34-54... Some photos of original were presented and details of painting schemes were discussed on WWII forum here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991188-dh-84-raaf-ambulance-colours/. Many thanks to Forum Members who helped me - just to name Ed Russell and Magpie22 for their most valuable help. Many other collegues supported me during this build with their comments and likes. I appreciate this very much. Regarding painting scheme (colours are a bit false due to halogen light) - I decided to paint it white from beneeth since if it would be lt. blue gray it should have white circle around red cross at bottom, I think. Part of the right side numbering (especially one "4" and "A") broken during applying and I did not have a spare, so I did my best to bring it back to shape, but some problems remained... Photos are done with halogen lamp - it is not nice light. I hope I will add some daylight photos likely in week-end, if there will be enough light...I want to post it today due to this anniversary. So please excuse me not the best quality of photos. So this is the results: And a photo of my DRAGON family: DH 84 Dragon, DH 89M Dragon Rapide, DH 90 Dragonfly: And a bigger family of small de Havillands from my shelves: All were posted already here separately, but I would like to share with you with the whole set. All but DH89M were done this year. Thank you for watching Regards Jerzy-Wojtek
  22. Hello everyone. The Easter holiday has finally allowed me to get my teeth into some long overdue modelling. First up is the Type 42 Destroyer from Dragon models. As with most things, planning is everything. After a scan of the instructions and a dry fit of the major components, it became clear that the photoetch should be tackled first. The main reason for this is because at 1:700 scale you have so little room to work with that fitting railings underneath walkways would be near impossible. The railings under the flightdeck show just how difficult it would be to fit after the flightdeck is fitted. The join in the middle of the flightdeck has been filled and sanded down, the same needs to be done to the stern of the ship. John
  23. Hi boys. Looks like another project has come to an end. This time it's Willys Armoured Truck from Dragon. The model was fun to build, had few problematic issues with the manual and parts numbering, but nothing that could affect all the joy I had building it. Model is built straight form the box, no additions and aftermarket were used. Only sold portion of weathering Enjoy.
  24. Hi all, This is the latest diorama that I have just finished entitled "Blitzkreig in the West" and is based on a German unit in May 1940 advancing through the outskirts of a ruined village, rounding up POW's and preparing for their next encounter. It has been on the go for over a year although it has sat idle at times whilst I worked on other kits and projects. It's by far the biggest diorama that I've attempted and I'm pleased with the outcome as well as pleased that it's finally (99.9%) finished. Below is a list of the kits used: Building: Miniart 36028 Tank: Hobbyboss 83813 Motorbike and sidecar: Zvezda 3607 Figures: Dragon 6478, 6347, 6196; Tahk T-35023; Stalingrad S-3534; Soga Miniatures 3531 All figures were hand painted including the insignia on the collars and sleeves and on some I added the improvised camouflage grass on their helmets that I've seen on photos from the period (very fiddly!) as well as making all the slings from scratch using lead foil and finally they all received a light dusting with Mig pigments to blend in with their environment. The Hobbyboss tank is my first proper attempt at air brushing as this is a new skill to me as well as the weathering. In keeping with the storyline behind the diorama, I wanted the tank to have a used and dirty look but keep the damage minimal. The scene is based around the Miniart kit with the added collapsed wooden floor scratch built using balsa wood and coffee stirrers and the strewn debris is a mixture of different sands, rubble and scale bricks. The burnt area is made up of white metal corrugated sheets and Mig pigments - Black Smoke and Ashes White. The slate wall was built one piece at a time. Thanks for looking and all feedback is welcome. Regards, Lee
  25. We've got some great 1/35 scale tank kits in stock now from one of our favourite manufacturers: Dragon Models. This release includes: A Panther II, Panther Ausf.D V2, a M4A4 Sherman with 60lb Rocket and more! https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/blog/article/new-dragon-tank-kits-oct-2016/