Jump to content

bmwh548

Members
  • Posts

    712
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Romania

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

bmwh548's Achievements

Obsessed Member

Obsessed Member (4/9)

343

Reputation

  1. I get along ok with Green Stuff World (only tested the inkjet paper).
  2. Try an automotive parts shop. The seals should be more resistant to wear (and possibly solvents, but that's not really relevant for the application).
  3. I use it exclusively through the airbrush for my homemade decals. Heavily diluted with IPA, 0.4mm nozzle. Works fine.
  4. Everytime I used CA as filler it becomes visible in time. You'll sand it nice and smooth, apply primer, sand that, all is well, birds are chirping. Come back to it a week later and you can clearly see the contour of whatever flaw you filled with CA. I've had better luck with "sprue goo". It's still not perfect and it takes a fair bit of time to dry, but it doesn't show as much as CA.
  5. You have the original stuff, just the older versions. They changed the markings on the needles and nozzles a few years ago. Make sure you get some photos when you order replacements so you don't mix them all up. Not an issue for the needles, but I think the old 0.4 nozzle had one marking and the new 0.2 has one marking (don't take my word on it, it's been a while).
  6. The rubber seal on the nozzle cap IS solvent resistant. It swells up a bit after taking a hit of lacquer thinner and it goes back to the normal size in a matter of minutes after it dries up. I'm not 100% sure, but I think mine still has the original seal (after....6 years maybe?). Make sure you didn't cross the set (the 0.2 nozzle cover with the 0.4 nozzle, or maybe the needle...). There's markings to help you sort them out. The nozzle covers you can tell apart just by looking at the diameter of the holes. Get a dental brush and clean the nozzle covers, there might be some dried up paint in there blocking your airflow. Every time I had bubbling I just gave the nozzle cover a twist and the problem went away.
  7. Maybe changing the technique a bit? I would try a lower viscosity putty, slow drying time. Fill in the gap (as best as you can) and then smooth it using your finger (maybe a bit wet). After the putty hardens do some sanding, look at it in the light, apply a second coat of putty where needed. I typically apply the putty, do the initial sanding and the follow up with a brushed coat of Surfacer 500, sand again and move on to primer.
  8. I think they removed the stainless steel ball because some users complained the bottle shattered. You realize it would be a legal nightmare if said people would get cellulose paint in their eyes and end up with partial/total blindness. Some colours mix fairly quickly, but others will definitely need more than 30 seconds for mixing all the pigment. I have a bottle of Dark green blue (Sukhoi paint) that needs A LOT of shaking. Some of them will cover in one go, others will need a lot of very thin layers and yes, it does dry to a satin finish. Also: be very careful with trigger mishaps. I've seen plastic crazed by MRP because someone got a bit too trigger happy.
  9. From personal experience: Tamiya's flat paints tend to have a slight sheen when brush painted. The same paints dry incredibly flat when airbrushed. Revell's Aqua range (of flat paints) dries dead flat when brushed. Again: strictly my own experience.
  10. Did you try a single bottle of paint during all the experiments? At some point I've had some gritty Tamiya (old stock probably) that would clog up completely random. After putting it through a filter it left grit inside the filter (the pigment must have solidified at some point). After filtering it the problem went away. The issue is more predominant as you go down on the nozzle diameter.
  11. Do you mean that paint just splutters out when you turn on the "compressor"? Without pulling back on the trigger? That would suggest the needle isn't seating properly/nozzle is cracked/there's a bad seal somewhere.
  12. You could cheat and do partly opened front windows. That would make the slot (on the windows) invisible and you could just sand off the excess plastic from the doors.
  13. I think they call it an alcohol based enamel. I used lacquers as a base for it, I'm guessing you want to avoid compatibility issues hence the question. You don't thin it. It's almost like pure thinner, it really doesn't need any more. I clean it with bog standard lacquer thinner. I used GX112, just make sure it's 1...maybe 2 light coats. If you go heavy it will rehydrate the AK stuff (also it will give it a weird super glossy look). Also remember testing Alclad's Aqua thingy and it didn't change the sheen of the paint. You should do some tests on scrap with various varnishes until you find the right one for you.
  14. Never have I ever. My eye is the first measuring tool. The way the mix moves in the cup, how "liquid" it is. Second measuring tool is my ear. If you hear the airbrush crackling something's up. Typically during summer thinner will evaporate faster (I use 99% lacquers) so the mix will actually become thicker...when it happens I hear the airbrush starting to sound differently and I feel the need to up air pressure. I just add a drop or two of thinner in the cup and remix and it's all good again.
  15. Their thinner might be towards the cellulose range. And those will do a number on plastic parts. I use IPA to clean up paint from styrene, hasn't failed yet. Sometimes it can take a while to soften the paint, others will start swelling/dissolving within minutes.
×
×
  • Create New...