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keiron99

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About keiron99

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  1. I tried using a Sharpie. It didn't bleed through (not yet), but it looked crap!
  2. Just a thought...I wonder if the same effect could be achieved using a Sharpie type pen?
  3. I've only owned an airbrush a few months so I'm still mastering the basics. One of the more "advanced" things I have tried is the "pre-shading" technique, spraying black on the panel lines before applying the final colour. I have two problems though. First, I cannot keep the black spray to the panel lines. It's a consequence I think of my crapness at spraying; my airbrush tip perhaps being too big; and the closeness of the lines on 1/72. Second, regardless of the above, when I spray the final colour, well...it just obscures the pre-shading completely!
  4. I tried with a brush and it was a disaster! I was pushing my luck though - I did not thin it. But it did NOT self level.
  5. Does anyone know if the Winsor & Newton varnish is self levelling? In other words, would I be able to apply it OK with a brush?
  6. Thanks, Nigel. I simply cut a notch in a paint stirrer and it did the job! Had to use a magnifying glass as my ageing eyes couldn't see what was going on. Glad I did this too. There was a blob of crud stuck in there. Thanks again.
  7. I may have my terminology wrong here - I'm not sure whether it's a "tip" or a "nozzle". I'm referring to the very small part at the front with a hole that the needle pokes through. Either way, how do I remove it? I have a no-brand cheapish (battery powered) airbrush and it's stopped performing the way it did when I first got it. I've cleaned everything as best as I can but I'm still having problems and I suspect it may be at the "tip" end of the airbrush. Alas, without removing it, I can't get in to clean it. I see many airbrushes come with a wrench, but min
  8. By the way, that rather cool look you've created, as I see others do, where you have odd panels on the aircraft done in a slightly darker or lighter shade, do you think I'd be able to achieve a darker finish by mixing some regular Vallejo black in with the metal aluminium? Or are they such different formulas that it might screw things up?
  9. Hi. The primer I got is 73.660 "gloss black". After spraying the model with the metal aluminium, I masked off a panel and sprayed with regular model air aluminium, and the difference is very subtle. I did a test though and sprayed the metal aluminium straight onto bare plastic and the finish is better. It's shinier and smoother.
  10. My Vallejo paints finally turned up and to be honest I'm a bit disappointed. The black "gloss" primer has a sort of rubbery, grainy, satin texture. Nothing like a shiny gloss to be honest. And the 'metal' aluminium paint is almost indistinguishable from regular silver. In fact, I think the regular aluminium is probably more realistic. I recall many, many years ago I used a Humbrol aluminium, which I applied with a brush, which you then burnished with a cloth. It was really quite effective. All round, not overly convinced by this unfortunately.
  11. Thanks, Shin, I have ordered some gloss black primer and aluminium from the metal range. Impatiently waiting for it to arrive! I imagine I will end up not varnishing it. One thing that's concerning me, having watched youtube videos, is how easy the metal finish paints come away with the masking tape. I will need to do some masking so will have to keep my fingers crossed I don't get in a pickle.
  12. Could I also use just regular Vallejo Model Air Glossy Black on top of the Tamiya primer to get the same benefit as the glossy primer? (Only because it's cheaper than the primer and I can see I might get more use from it in the future.)
  13. Thanks. So could I apply the Aluminium on top of the Tamiya grey primer I usually use? (Or would that compromise the finish of the aluminium?)
  14. I'm going to paint my Airfix 1/72 P51-D Mustang using Vallejo Metal Colour Aluminium. I know there are (cheaper) alternatives but other Vallejo model air paints work well in my modest airbrush, so I am hopeful this should run through it OK too. But I'm wondering whether I also need to get gloss black primer (or at least apply a gloss black undercoat) and a special varnish. I don't want to end up spending three times as much on the paint - which I will likely never use again - than on the kit itself! What is the purpose of the gloss black undercoat? Can I not use matt bl
  15. I've tried brushing but still with the same outcome. Even after 3 layers of paint, it's patchy. It has the appearance of peeling, sunburned skin.
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