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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

Tony Oliver

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Everything posted by Tony Oliver

  1. Thanks Parip!
  2. So I have become a tomcat fanatic recently (1/72) and have decided to embark on an epic saga starting with this load of hobbyboss kits before moving onto some Hasegawa ones. I got these from creative models and mjwmodels over various special offer weeks when they were knocking them out at around £12 a kit. I would like to try to do some lesser seen schemes but pretty limited with decals because most kits and AM sheets come with normally the colourful cag birds etc... The kit that started it all was an ebay bargain revell kit, see here - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005611-revell-172-f-14b-tomcat-vf-103/ This WIP will hopefully document all of them, most of them concurrently/in pairs, then as they are completed they will have individual RFI threads. I won't document every single thing, as most things will be duplicated (eg the polishing and dipping of several canopy mold seams - i'll just show one) but i will try to highlight any problem areas I encounter or things different to that particular machine. The plan is to try and do at least the following for each variant: - completely 'out of the box' - tweaked with a basic cockpit set and maybe weapon upgrades & AM decals - dressed up with an advanced etch set, resin bits & weapons, AM decals etc. I will also be trying out some different paints on each of the builds, with some of them having the corresponding metallics too. To play with I have collected: - Ak interactive air USN set and their xtreme metal. - Vallejo model air USN set and Vallejo metal color. - Mr color and mr super metallic. - Mr hobby aqueos and mr metal color. -Akan -Mr Paint -xtracrylix -Tamiya -Hataka red and now the new orange line too. Some of these will be used with alclad metallics too. Also is the revell nato pilot set, one of the builds will have a pair in the cockpit with the nose gear in the squat position, and then maybe one or two may have a figure on the wing walks. And then for fun there is a hasegawa F14 eggplane and a felix mascot. (From Hannants) It says 90mm I guess thats how tall it is when finished? Tamiya 10ml clear for size/scale. So the planned planes are: (unless I discover/purchase some other decal options between now and starting them!) F-14 B's - planes 1, 2 & 3 1: B - V102 - hasegawa decals. bombcat configuration. Pilots in, nose down and nozzles closed getting ready for launch. COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235022364-hobbyboss-172-f-14b-tomcat-vf-102-diamondbacks/ 2 - vf101 grim reapers. Tacts Training loadout - COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235010536-hobbyboss-172-f14b-tomcat-vf101/ 3 - vf 74 adversary scheme from a hasegawa kit. Mr Paint colours F-14 D's - planes 4, 5 & 6. 4 - OOB vf 31. Plane 101 tomcat sunset. Empty bombcat configuration. COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235009559-hobbyboss-172-f-14d-tomcat-vf31/ 5 - A VF2 decal option. This build will have a dream model color cockpit etch and some Hasegawa upgrades from my little casting project. 6 - vf 213 101 nose art decals with advanced etch set (interior/exterior) Also Aires resin nose wheel doors for front u/c bay. Bombcat - gbu 24's and lantirn from the Hasegawa sets. Mr color paints - COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012670-hobbyboss-172-f-14d-tomcat-vf213/ F-14 A's - planes 7 onwards. 7 - Vf32 desert storm decals. Standard 4/2/2 missile loadout. Mr hobby paints - COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235018482-172-hobbyboss-f-14a-tomcat-vf32-swordsmen/ 8 - most likey an early vf 114. Will use some hasegawa spares eg early tail fins without stiffner plates etc. Full brassin early white weapons (9D, 7F & 54A's ) in Hataka paints. 9 - vf 111 low vis gull grey - fcm sheet. 4/4 loadout of sparrows and winders. Akan paints. 10 - vf 21 Freelancers 1991 Late A in TPS by Xtracrylics. Doomsday 6 Phoenix load. 11 - vf 14 Tophatters 1993 iron bomb cat. Late A in TPS by Mig Ammo. Phew thats a lot of waffle! During this WIP I will refer to them as planes 1 to number whatever to reduce the amount of confusion/easy reference. If there are any super geeks out there who can spot any faults with the above then feel free to chime in, any help is greatly appreciated. I have done a bit of research but everyday is a school day! I started a couple weeks ago near the start of july so have lots to post already, so over coming weeks so the replies (hopefully) can spur me on as I anticipate I will start getting fed up towards the last couple builds. I have made a start on planes 2,4 & 6 Let the fun commence!
  3. Decal experience for the Tophatter was disappointing... Not only was it an old hasegawa sheet that was all cracked, they seemed wrong as well as misprinted. They were all covered in microscale decal film to stop them breaking up, which meant they all had to be cut out individualy as well. Once they were off the sheet is when the misprint became apparent. The grey not being aligned with the white base, giving a drop shadow on some of the larger ones eg numbers, but all the small stencils and the like were unuseable as about impossible to try and trim all the white away. Plus even if they weren't misprinted, the style of modex numbers doesn't match period pics. More on that in a bit. In the end the only ones I used were the stars and bars, tail logos, jfk's, hats for droptanks and the build number. Fortunately in my spares I had some spare vf14's and AC tail codes in black (which needed to be dark grey) And then generic stencils in various greys, which all needed to be medium grey though. In terms of accuracy, the decals provided on the hasegawa sheet seem to be a composite of the 1991-1993 period, with some parts matching different photos. I can't find one picture that matches all what they have provided (I suppose there may be one out there?) In the several real pics of 100 and 103 from that time frame there are variations in the placement of the carrier name, vf 14 position and the contrast of the stencils, as well as some other things I won't bore you with... In the end I picked one of the photos only and tried to match her as close to that as possible. Its the 9th one down, with the helicopter hovering in front of it. http://www.seaforces.org/usnair/VF/Fighter-Squadron-14.htm Pictures of the problems and solutions. White shadow to the numbers. And they're not slanted either. I added some dark grey tips to the wings and stabs, another common tophat feature. Note initial 103's on flaps with the white shadow. Subsequently Removed. 103's being made up from 101's Decals applied that mostly are too dark in shade. New slanted 103's. Insignia too dark though. Tanks and ordnance decalled too. Trying to get brown decal stripes to photo well is a challenge. They look purple black in this pic? Decals turned to grey from black using the relevant background base color it was applied on mixed with Transparator. Note stars and bars now the same tone as the rescue data as per the ref pic in link, and the now subduded intake warning, navy and AC (was black) Decals made for the glove vane panel lines. So much easier than trying to trim out the kit parts then fit the wedge in with an even gap all around it... Might put these on ebay as a shortcut for all tomcat kits? Thats all for now with the Tophatter bird...
  4. Tophatters loadout being done. General view of the light ghost grey being sprayed. Sparrows are brassin, sidewinders are tamiya (from their block 50 f-16cj) and the bombs are hasegawa. The hasegawa mk83 bombs were quite crude so they had some work over several days. First they were cleaned up and the raised ridges removed and pin marks filled. The real things seem to be a cast bomb at the front and a sheet/pressed metal rear fin section. So I masked them off and stippled mr surfacer 500 on them which was then sanded back a touch. Then they were sprayed in grey, then the grey masked off and the green parts done in a shade mixed up from the mig ammo greens I have. Fuses will be some spare brassin ones I have. Sidewinders may have some RBF caps and tags added yet, not sure. Grey on, to be masked for green still. Very pleased with how these mig ammo paints are working for me now 50/50 mix turned out about right as one is too dark and the other too light. Cheers, decal update next.
  5. Yeah I used that blog as reference for my build. I did a black 8 cause it looks better in b&w photos of the model. Plus in the photo of the real thing - the supposed 'red' 8 is darker than the brick red fuselage band? Have a look a the pic in my RFI, looks pretty close... Unless there is some photography trickery going on in the way colours react on b&w film? Sorry to @galgos if this is sidetracked his wip.
  6. Few other bits done. Not much as had alot on this past week so no real bench time. White bits done on the vf14 - u/c bays, gear, doors, sparrow noses, exhaust tubes etc. Mig ammo acrylic satin white to match the rest of the paints obviously... In other news - Got a small problem with the decals for this plane , more on that in a future post. Another little job done was grey tailfin leading edges for the low viz gull vf 111. The fcm sheet says corroguard for these, but looking at the pic of the real plane in the link a few posts above, that doesn't seem right. The new 1/48 furball sundowners anthology sheet has this plane on it, and suggests dark ghost grey for them. Looks about right as they are darker than the gull grey of the plane but not as dark as the medium grey of the markings. Another detail noticed from the real plane are the small colour/yellow sundowners badges on each side, central below the cockpit. These are missing from the FCM sheet so will taken from my hasegawa pacific fleet boxing. Lastly some new resin trickery - hasegawa etch circuit breaker panels to go either side of the rio's seat for future hobbyboss builds. Mastered on 0.25mm plastic card. Cheers, Tony
  7. Cloudiness can be caused by humidity too, especially in rattle cans. As in it can be warm with no rain for spraying but still alot of moisture in the air? I've been having troubles lately with humidity too, but casting resin...
  8. Smashing!
  9. They have got back to me asking for some pictures to show the problem. Will try and get some done over the weekend to send through to them. Sounded like they haven't heard of this or been reported by anyone else yet?
  10. Lovely. Nice to see a 'transitional' loadout too from the time when the missile variants and colours were being changed over 👍🏿 Have something similar planned in 1/72 but low viz
  11. Good job 👍🏿
  12. Lovely that mate. Is that the blackdog resin turret & barrel? - apologies if already been asked or mentioned... Tony.
  13. Very nice mate, had a similar idea planned for one of these some day but using the decals from the new tamiya kit. Will need to sand off the tailfin stiffeners though...
  14. Cheers lads 👍🏿
  15. Hi there, joining in with a pair of k4's. Both late with lots of 81 brown on uppers and that odd greenish 76 variant lowers. Will have some resin upgrades as per tags. Mr colour paints will be used I think for speed, simplicity and durability.
  16. Yeah thats cool Max cheers, Although nothing beats the look of 'sanded off' paint than actual sanded off paint, especially when it comes to the tail crosses etc. It looks a bit coarse in 1/48 but gets the idea across. It would look great if you tried something like that in 1/32 as would be more apparent/acceptable to see some sanding marks? Perhaps a ghosting of the camo remanants would perhaps just look like really faded as opposed to sanded paint? And yeah joined the gb with a couple of 1/48 k4's. Hoping to start next week on those...
  17. Hiya, good idea to practice on a hack. I did this plane last year (1/48) but went for a black instead of red 8 as it looked more like a match for the pics, especially when the model is photo'd in B&W. I did an alclad base, then a patchy finish of soft Vallejo model color for the remnants of camo which can be seen, most of which was sanded off with fine 2400 emery paper. Same for the tail cross, which was masked and sprayed, then sanded back. Note white(?) tail tip to drop tank. Here's a link if it helps to give you some ideas. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005104-eduard-148-bf109g6-jg300-kurt-gabler-not-very-nmf/ Tony
  18. Yeah it seems to be that way. They have an early g fuselage for their g2-6 kits then these sprues are marked as g10-k4.
  19. Ok, so a bit of a lengthy post on this new process I am using to paint this Tophatters cat. It seems like more work but I think it's actually quicker in the long run to get that 'corrosion touched up' type paint job. Also makes it easier to work with waterbased acrylics that aren't great for tight freehand work. Step 1 - After a solid priming, plane is painted in solid colours. Quicker than building up a colour using black basing or having to preshade all panel lines. Doing any of those now would be a waste of time because they will get lost under subsequent coats. Here we have dark ghost grey lowers and tailfins, with blue grey uppers and skunk stripe. Ps after watching that new mig ammo video on using their paints, I got lovely results. Not been a fan in the past as used to get fisheyes and the like. This time its a nice tight satin coat. In terms of colour the shades are quite light and have that purpleish tone like the mr color lacquers of these usn greys. Step 2 - masking fluid is applied with a fine brush/toothpick along panels and joins or areas where you want all the fresh paint/touch ups to be. Don't worry if you do too much of them cause you can always reduce them back later. Step 3 - Now for the 'post shade' Seeing as super thinned water based acrylics don't spray/cover that well, I thinned with transparator (satin varnish would do the same) so the paint still has some 'body' (as in not all thinner) but isn't going to cover too strongly because the colour is now made see through. This is gunship grey. In hindsight a touch of brown could be added to get a more grimy colour. I may use some brown washes after decals. Anyways - Here it is post shaded and grimed up - it don't have to be perfect. Mask sure you spray over the maskol areas too. Its ok if its grainy or splotchy because we will tidy it up later. All the parts had the same treatment. Once the fluid is removed - this is what you end up with - not bad! To get this same effect normally would have required the prime, a preshade, main colour, then all the 'touch ups' sprayed as in real life - which requires a steady hand to spray them and a paint that can produce fine 'in scale' spray patterns. Plus makes all the preshading below the touchups a waste of time cause they are covered over. (Unless you only preshaded where you weren't going to add touchups at the end, but then you are 'chasing the finish' so to speak') Note how the dark edges trick the eyes into thinking the paint inside is lighter, when it is actually the same colour as the rest of the plane! This lower wing looks like it has had fresh paint patched on... Step 4 - So the last stage is a bit of a 'blending' coat. This is where you can reduce the contrast to a level you are happy with to leave the finish and touch ups as prominent as you like. So I used thin/transparated original colours to tone down the post shading. (Dark ghost & blue grey) The the last thing I did was a bit of fading and variation. (The kind you would get from black basing, but as mentioned if done at the start would have been lost under all done up till now) So I went over the whole plane here and there with thinned light ghost grey to add some fading /bleaching. And then it looks like this - Upper and lower sides of flying surfaces to show difference between the blue grey and dark ghost grey colours. Quite prominent. Out of interest say to the ak air I used on the vf101 B where these two colours of theirs are very close. (Not shown here - check RFI - link on page 1) Close ups of the toned down and faded 'touch ups' Last job was wing bladders (I used rlm 66) and corroguard leading edges (steel) Its now having all the small lumps and bumps done with red/radome tan etc. U/C parts being cleaned up to get the white on them along with the wheel wells once they have been masked off. Hope this all made sense!
  20. Hi there, joined with a pair of 109 k4's if thats ok?
  21. True, but still an uncommon scale? Thought they would make it 1/16. As in twice the size of 1/32. Never seen something in 1/36? But I suppose they could go down the '4 times larger than 1/72' marketing route.
  22. 1/18? Is that a bit odd? (As in strange, 18 isn't an odd number) I thought is was 1/24 then 1/16 after 1/32?
  23. 👍🏿
  24. Ya, Du warst beschäftigt... Alles gut!
  25. Well, sadly I too can confirm the brassin cowls are oversize. Width left to right over the exhaust area is ok, but the length front to rear is too much. When flush up against the fuel tank, the cowl overhangs the nose at the front by as much as the whole rivet section with the fasteners on it. So about 1.5mm + As mentioned already, trimming/sanding it flush with the rest of the nose will result in the loss of all this detail. Not good, they seemed to have dropped the ball with this one. I will send an email to eduard and let you know what they say.