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Tony Oliver

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Everything posted by Tony Oliver

  1. Some more progress made. Body has had all the shut lines done with a deep grey panel wash. Not cleaned off yet in pic. More that enough contrast against the white. (Black was too strong for this, tried it first) Also, the first coat on door sills done with x18 enamel. Wheels about done. Used the tire decals. Still on the fence about them. Anyways, some grime and brake dust added - brownish grey wash. Wheel nuts done in titianium silver and then red/blue for sides. Had a wash on the nuts too to bring out details. Brakes had same treatment after ap logo decals were sealed. Wheel had blue trim and then some primary colour buttons. Clear red in LCD strips too. Other bits like pedals and wiper in a mix of flat and satin blacks. Sliver brushed carefully on fuel fillers. Seat was done in a gloss dark grey, decalled then flat coated. Sides brushed in x18 satin black enamel. Pipes in titanium silver with black inside and a grime wash. Thats all for now!
  2. Hi Guys, Bought this on a whim the other week, hopefully a nice simple quick build as a solo colour. This is my 4th car model but first car WIP, here goes! First thing I want to do is get the body assembled and ready for paint so it can then cure while I do all the chassis stuff.
  3. VF 102 update. Washes on - 4 were used. 1- Went for blue grey overall, a slightly lighter and browner wash than the overall deep grey of previous builds. 2 - The wheel wells/ doors & u/c (all white bits basically) had the grey filter used as a wash. 3- The exhuast interiors had the deep brown. 4- Lastly all the vents/grills and hinges on flaps rudders engine cowls etc had the blue back for more depth. Once it was all cleaned off, a few panels on the top and most of the undersides where grime collects were outlined in deep grey to give a bit of contrast and make them stand out a bit more. Then is was matt coated with tamiya flat clear xf86. In detail: Wash on! Wash off! Darker bits done - note some of the more prominent oval panels on wings. Flat clear going on in these pics. Quite pleased with how the hasegawa decals turned out. They are thick but settled in well. Streaking grime to be added tonight 👍🏿
  4. So I have become a tomcat fanatic recently (1/72) and have decided to embark on an epic saga starting with this load of hobbyboss kits before moving onto some Hasegawa ones. I got these from creative models and mjwmodels over various special offer weeks when they were knocking them out at around £12 a kit. I would like to try to do some lesser seen schemes but pretty limited with decals because most kits and AM sheets come with normally the colourful cag birds etc... The kit that started it all was an ebay bargain revell kit, see here - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005611-revell-172-f-14b-tomcat-vf-103/ This WIP will hopefully document all of them, most of them concurrently/in pairs, then as they are completed they will have individual RFI threads. I won't document every single thing, as most things will be duplicated (eg the polishing and dipping of several canopy mold seams - i'll just show one) but i will try to highlight any problem areas I encounter or things different to that particular machine. The plan is to try and do the following for each variant: 1 - completely 'out of the box' 1 - tweaked with a basic cockpit set and maybe weapon upgrades & AM decals 1 - dressed up with an advanced etch set, resin bits & weapons, AM decals etc. I will also be trying out some different paints on each of the six builds, with some of them having the corresponding metallics too. To play with I have collected: - Ak interactive air USN set and their xtreme metal. - Vallejo model air USN set and Vallejo metal color. - Mr color and mr super metallic. - Mr hobby aqueos and mr metal color. -Akan -Mr Paint -xtracrylix -Tamiya -hataka Some of these will be used with alclad metallics too. Also is the revell pilot set, one of the builds will have a pair in the cockpit with the nose gear in the squat position, and then maybe one or two may have a figure on the wing walks. And then for fun there is a hasegawa F14 eggplane and a felix mascot. (From Hannants) It says 90mm I guess thats how tall it is when finished? Tamiya 10ml clear for size/scale. So the planned planes are: (unless I discover/purchase some other decal options between now and starting them!) F-14 B's - planes 1, 2 & 3 1: B - V102 - hasegawa decals. bombcat configuration. Pilots in, nose down and nozzles closed getting ready for launch. 2 - vf101 grim reapers. Training loadout - COMPLETED - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235010536-hobbyboss-172-f14b-tomcat-vf101/ 3 - Boxtop option vf143, retro gull gray scheme for their last cruise(?) Resin exhausts & This will have the advanced dream model etch set (interior and exterior) I may attempt the etch boarding ladder. F-14 D's - planes 4, 5 & 6. 4 - OOB vf 31. Plane 101. COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235009559-hobbyboss-172-f-14d-tomcat-vf31/ 5 - VF2 Hasegawa decal option. This build will have a dream model color cockpit etch and some Hasegawa upgrades from my little casting project. 6 - vf 213 101 nose art decals with advanced etch set (interior/exterior) Also Aires resin nose wheel doors for front u/c bay. Loadout will be smart bombs gbu 24's and lantirn from the Hasegawa sets. Mr color paints - COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012670-hobbyboss-172-f-14d-tomcat-vf213/ F-14 A's - planes 7, 8 & 9. 7 - Vf32 desert storm decals. Mr hobby paints - COMPLETED - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235018482-172-hobbyboss-f-14a-tomcat-vf32-swordsmen/ 8 - most likey an early vf 111. Will use some hasegawa spares eg early tail fins without stiffner plates etc. Full brassin weapons & Akan paints. 9 - vf 14 tophatters 80th anni scheme. Full etch set, resin bits and lantirn/smart bombs.. Phew thats a lot of waffle! During this WIP I will refer to them as planes 1 to 9 to reduce the amount of confusion/easy reference. If there are any super geeks out there who can spot any faults with the above then feel free to chime in, any help is greatly appreciated. I have done a bit of research but everyday is a school day! I started a couple weeks ago near the start of july so have lots to post already, so over coming weeks so the replies (hopefully) can spur me on as I anticipate I will start getting fed up towards the last couple builds. I have made a start on planes 2,4 & 6 Let the fun commence!
  5. Yeah seen pics of that whilst doing research for the build due to the strange '1000' modex. Something to do with 1000th carrier landing from what I have ascertained. May have to do a crew in the pit or one lad on the wingwalk 👍🏿
  6. Hi pal I'd say it's probably around that. I am a lazy sprayer when it comes to stuff like that. I just go by eye and feel - always spray on scrap first and adjust mix from there. I start thin and add more paint if needed. I'm the type that mixes in the airbrush cup too (can hear people gasping in horror) I always start with the thinner in the cup first (the type suited to paint I'm gonna use obviously) Then I drop the paint in off of a toothpick or similar and stir with a brush to mix. Use the brush again to help clean it out afterwards too. I have a separate brush for mixing metals though. (Different airbrush too) Always seem to get little flecks in otherwise. Hope this helps a bit!
  7. Its rebottled Stynylrez. Tried some start of February! As for sprues I dont bother washing them, its a waste of time because of all the handling/filling/sanding etc during the build. So a wipe down before primer is what I do.
  8. Meanwhile the next two are being planned. Small details eg AM & resin to be finalised. An A and a B. The A will be vf 114 from the allstars sheet, wearing Akan paints. The B will be as vf 74 adversary courtesy of hasegawa, wearing Mr Paint. Will update the first page with these new ones later and assign them build numbers 👍🏿
  9. Hi pal, thanks for the comment A couple pages back when the vf32 was finished is the most recent groupshot of the 4 completed so far. Hopefully this one will be done by next week too then the thread will be updated... Spent some time with this bird & its panel line washes yesterday. Pics to be added later if they turned out ok then it will be flat coat time followed lastly by greaking grime type marks and wing sweep area grubbiness etc 👍🏿
  10. Had an idea to make some decals to add details to interior of the GE nozzles. The Eduard brassin ones have this, slight depressions in the plates which take a wash to male them stand out. So I thought I could suggest this with a decal. Made some shapes in paint. Stated with regularly spaced rectangles which I then turned into ovals. Printed of onto regular paper to check size. Then printed off on to laser decal paper. A dirty brown color. One being tested - fujimi plastic nozzle shown. This was a few weeks back. Now being used in anger on the vf102 birds nozzles! Should look better once they have had a grimy wash and some pigment soot. Thanks for looking 👍🏿
  11. Hi all, this will be the Mighty Mig-31 by Hobbyboss. Not seen one of these done yet so will be a trial and error as we go... No AM available for this at the minute so will be OOB as of yet. Had a book turn up so have a bit of reference material to hopefully work out some of the variant details. I believe this kit represents an early plane. HB has a bm type for later release? Hoping @ya-gabor will be along for some pointers too... First question - Hobbyboss shows drop tanks only as an option for the inner pylons, but there is only one picture in the book of drop tanks with them fitted on the outer ones mig-21 style. So did they change this on the later builds? Or were all pylons 'wet'?
  12. Some chassis bits. Using tamiya enamels for the specified colours as the acrylic versions are very 'grainy' They were sprayed straight onto the plastic with lacquer thinners, which is another good thing about enamels. First, Matt alumnium gives a nice finish for the wheels, which I imagine would be machined from forged billet in real life? Chrome silver for discs. Almost looks white when it reflects the light. Lovely. The discs then had gold and titanium gold brush painted on for the calipers and bells respectively. All ready for some little logo decals now. More soon. The interior is being decalled too 👍🏿
  13. Just caught up, good work Johnny almost there now! Tony
  14. It's certainly a quicker process David. As in the black primer and 'total preshade' are done in one, then just add the grey where and to the intensity you want. Compared to the traditional grey primer, then spraying tediously along all panel lines, then adding the grey carefully to get the goldilocks amount (just right) of it showing through ha ha. Tony
  15. So, seeing that quirky/inspirational thread titles are all the rage recently I thought I'd join in... However having been told a few times about my sense of humour, I myself will keep this thread serious with no banter. What you guys do is out of my control. Nor will I distract or diverge with history as I am no expert in that area. So will just keep it modelling 👍🏿 JKIM. Anyways back to why we are here... (JKIM) I had planned these spring build spitfires for a while, with some overtrees to use up the foreign options from my Royal Class boxing. (Anyone who has seen my stuff lately will know I like doing things in bulk - the tomcats got ignored/postponed for the Christmas wip, then F-16's and now these) The quattro I had planned from the Royal Class decals was going to be the US/French/Soviet and Israeli ones. However the french and soviet ones were done very recently by @Procopius and the US and Israeli ones are quite common too... So I trawlled the net for lesser spotted spits and found some interesting decals. The project then grew from a quattro to a sextet. (Also because I had more paint shades to try) So the builds planned are 3 C wing and 3 E wing planes. C's Serb - Mr Paint Greek - Ak air US and A - Mr Color E's Norse - Hataka Lacquer Line Turk - Colourcoats Russian - xtracrylix The builds will be pretty basic as they are overtrees with no etch and no stencils etc. I have a couple ideas to compensate for etch and the like. Also not worried about lack of stencils as they are all foreign or postwar so most stencils will be worn or possibly not replaced after a repaint... I did get some techmod ones to do the odd one here and there. I will be using some masks too for the paint jobs to speed up the project, apart from the serb and yank which will be freehand as they have non standard patterns or areas of repainting. The paint manufacturers chosen have been allocated to help this work best. Lets get to it. Note, American and Russian decals still inbound. Mr Color and xtracrylix not shown. I only have the day fighter colours from @SovereignHobbies, no interior shade so will use some alcald paint to keep that build enamel themed. Also can't wait to try the orange line by @HATAKA OFFICIAL, and the blue line (brush) bottles will used to detail paint all builds. Thanks for looking!
  16. Nothing futher to report sadly. Continuing with the sad theme, this is going to have to go back in the box for now. Not to the shelf of doom though. Too much going on at the minute, plus when/if it gets built I have nowhere to put it as its going to be too big for the cabinet. However I will 'rejoin' this GB with something simple & quick next month. Perhaps along the lines of eduards 1/72 mig-15 uti...
  17. Yikes that's intense! well done mate 👍🏿
  18. Sitrep on the vf102. Didn't go too great after the last update, kinda one step forward and two steps back. Added a blue filter with the airbrush as I said I would in last update, compare left and right below. Ended up being too much though. Think the boxtop reference photo grey plane looks very 'blue' due to the sky affecting my brain. Plus then after this blue filter when I took it to the cabinet to compare, this supposed overall light ghost grey plane was darker and bluer than the builds that had 35237 uppers! So this had to change. To try and counter the 'over-blueness' I applied a white enamel filter. It was stippled on and this gave quite a cool salt water stained effect, but didn't change the look the way I wanted it to. However I will save this technique for a future build. Filter applied, And what it looked like dry. However it still wasn't pale enough so it was back all over with the light grey again. Then I did the commonly seen 'touch ups' as well. So in the end it's turned out ok, but all that first paint job black basing was lost. Oh well. What it looked like after the respray - Next the wheel wells were done (masked and sprayed) and details were all touched in by brush, bits in red, radome tan and various metal areas. Then it was gloss and decals! Thanks for looking!
  19. Its not politically driven ts religious based extremism. One group of people that think their way of life as dictated by their imaginary man in the sky is better than the other groups way of life as dictated by their different imaginary man in the sky. So they punish them. We weren't as extreme in the past but did try and 'give' christianity to the rest of the world what with crusades and missionaries. It's not been confirmed yet but as we all suspect its an attack on our 'western ways' - British people listening to American music. In the eyes of the attackers they were people who have 'lost their way' and not following their imaginary man in the sky as diligently as they should be.
  20. Can I get some more hobbyboss 1/72 tomcats mike? Had them in the basket online yesterday but may as well get them from you at the show. 2 each of the A & D versions (showing in stock at the minute) Cheers, Tony
  21. Will be there with the darlington club 👍🏿
  22. Another one from the Christmas WIP over the festive season... Nice simple kit that needs alot of nose weight. Alot. Hataka 'international orange' from the early USN set. Played around mixing some white in to fade the top, along with the final varnish sheens. Desert sun faded Matt ontop going to satin lowers. Mr color 351 zinc chromate for the interiors, touched up and chipped with the mig colours. Super metals - probes in chrome and hubs in super fine silver. More Details in the WIP here - Anyway here it is - This one below shows the fading better. Orange looks very monotone against the white background in other pics. Again bleached uppers more apparent in this one below. Thanks for looking Tony O
  23. Also - take a look at the current May issue of model airplane international. Back to back builds of both the HB and AMK mig-31's 👍🏿 picture of front cover in link. 'Compare and contrast' feature. https://pocketmags.com/model-airplane-international-magazine
  24. Thanks for taking the time to post this 👍🏿
  25. Just thought I'd share my findings of this paint with you guys. I bought these direct a couple months back when they had a free shipping offer on. Part of a bigger project trying out/comparing day fighter schemes paint here: Background: I have been a big fan of Mr Color since returning to the hobby a few years back when it comes to fine freehand camo work. Thick paint (so lasts ages) that requires alot of thinning in sturdy glass jars etc. Was quite expensive & hard to get hold of until recently. Downside is that it stinks when used with leveling thinner to do fine detail work. Also for me I have found the paint has a very narrow window of workable consistency. As in you can have it nice and thin to do camo outlines but when you come to 'colouring in' you can't go much thicker otherwise is spits and splutters and makes 'spider webs'. So it can takes ages to do a camo scheme filling in the areas with thin paint. A very tough satin finish though that can be decalled onto aswell. Along came Mr Paint more recently. A very easy to use pre thinned paint. Very dense though with great covering power. But I dont like the tall bottles, I always make a mess pouring and worried I'm going to knock them over. Also stinks alot. A few concerns on the web regards colour accuracy too. Plus still relatively expensive and not widely available yet. Another problem for me is that if you thin it a bit with say leveling thinner (when going back over tightening up edges) it can dry blotchy and shiny compared to rest of the area. This can make is hard to see what's been painted, and have doubts about the consistency of shade over an area especially if you want solid colour. Enter the new Hataka Orange line - Lacquer / Solvent based acrylics. To go up against the likes of Mr C and P perhaps. Hataka had a bit of a rough start with their very first paint, it could be gritty at times (I have had first hand experience of that) and had some bad press. However they persevered and released a new red line formula which is now awesome. So kudos to them I Say for not going under/giving up. I have had three successful builds using the new formula red line - An X-1, F5N Hellcat & F16CJ. Now this year they have increased their range - we have the blue (brush) and orange (lacquer) to add tonthe improved red line. This orange line has really impressed me. The paint went down very smooth for the MSG undersides and ocean grey topsides. It was when it came to doing the green camo it blew me away. All freehand with a 0.2mm needle and their own thinner. I did this green upper pattern in an hour or so which is really quick for me. These are some of the pros of this new paint (keeping in mind what I said about cons of Mr C and P above) 1. The paint has a much larger window of consistency - from being workable whilst super thin at low pressures and close in for outlines to being able to use it thicker for 'filling in' without massive overspray or splatters. Its really easy to keep the spray pattern tight. So painting is alot quicker. 2. The colour is super smooth and consistent once built up not matter how thin it is was to start with - no blotchy or glossy bits. So all your touching in matches the rest of it. 3. Hardly any smell, nowhere near as bad as the above two. About the same as any other waterbased acrylic. 4. Easy to dispense eye dropper bottles with a shaker in. No mess and no waste. 5. Their lacquer thinner works with Mr Color too. So there is a reduced smell option too now with those. 6. Paint is tough, quick drying and takes masking well. 7. Actual shades of colour look good. 8. Come in nice themed packs of associated colours 9. A few places stock them now and can work out to about £2 a bottle if you shop around. 10. Not a single bit of tip dry or crud build up on the needle during the camo spraying session. I think the only con would be there isn't enough of it available yet! New sets are scheduled soon. Looking forward to the US/USN jet grey set Well done to @HATAKA OFFICIAL for a great product. How tight it that? More than good enough for 1/72. Painting 1/48 kits will be a breeze! Thanks for taking the time to read all this! Try some of this paint, you won't be disappointed 👍🏿 Tony