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Tony Oliver

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Everything posted by Tony Oliver

  1. Awesome!
  2. So for this build the quartet will be a f-16cj by tamiya in the 'have glass scheme', (caracal next gen vipers), and an F-16N by hasegawa, and a Revell C in the new mission models paints. New addition is the Academy KF-16C that will be wearing Xtracrylix. The tamiya will have an eduard etch zoom upgrade, masks and possibly a resin exhaust. Paint by hataka. The Hasgawa will be pretty much out of the box, with an Eduard canopy mask. It will have the exhaust, wheels and seat dressed up. Latest addition is a Revell C, with caracal lonestar decals. Mission models paints. (Will have to mix three shades of grey from black and white). Upgradings - wheels and seat. itching to start... Tamiya cj Hasegawa N Revell C
  3. Yeah its a good book for a tiger nut, bought it several years ago myself. Good find pal 👍🏿
  4. A few overall shots. All separate numbers are provided for serials to make any plane - real or fictional. I chose 83 cause its my favourite number. The stencils are also all on but are super low contrast and look great. Lastly the zorst section was painted in ak xtreme titanium. Then their metallic purple misted where it comes out of the grey area. Then the last ring masked off and sprayed lightly with the xtreme metallic blue. The main nozzle (not shown) was done in ak xtreme jet exhaust (basically a metal black) and then had some purple and blue misted over it too. Catch you tomorrow.
  5. Massive catch up for the KF-16C. Bought last Saturday a week and a half agonand now almost ready for a panel wash... Intake - outer shell - two halves and an upper, separate lip. Trunk in two halves. No pin marks in bay - bonus! Spot priming with stynylrez. Intake clicks on and held in place with pva. White trunking and bay can be added later. Less masking! Attack sqn resin zorst fits great (revell/kenetic) Note plane wearing full primer now. Light ghost grey going on Freehand camo done. Contrast increased. Tail respray for later style numbers added. (Copied box top photo) White trunking can now be added (popped intake piece off) @Giorgio N Perfect! Nose gear leg was tacked in place when the white trunking was sprayed Now glued in place. Only had to mask off main bay for white. Thanks for looking!
  6. It most certainly does! Plus you don't get any dry gritty/rough overspray areas like you can with lacquer types that dry too soon in the air. Stynylrez almost always lands 'wet' and then self levels. I don't use anything else to prime with now 👍🏿
  7. Thats just how that stuff is. Not really a 'workable' primer the way that people think primers should be. The vallejo stuff in my opinion is best for armour or figures, stuff that won't need masking, or to provide a uniform base colour over different components (resin/metal/plastic) before the main paintjob starts. If you want a workable and tough acrylic primer - get some stynylrez instead 👍🏿
  8. I found the intake (shape aside) to be well engineered design wise and fit well. Too late now obviously but to help others - The inner white trunking needs to be recessed in a touch (yours looks flush with the outer shell) to allow the rigde on back of the intake lip to fit in it. Perhaps thats what led to problems? I found the kit overall (shapes aside) to be well detailed and some clever solutions to joins. Worst bit as you say is the gun muzzle part. Hole is too deep and part too thin. So i shimmed it so it sits more level with surrounding surface and thus less to fill 👍🏿
  9. This is true of the decals. Just put them on my KF-16. Not added any pics on my build thread of it as too busy with the lonestar. They are very good quality and settled down well into the rivets. I agree about the contrast being very slight. I went free hand and couldn't see the difference so made the contrast stronger by lightning and darkening the colours respectively. 👍🏿
  10. Hmmm perhaps ammend the title as its not the grey 36170 itself but a metalic varnish to 'have-glasserize' your colours that are already applied. Good idea though. Will be easy now, Like paint the normal 3 or 2 tone greys then add the metal effect or the later all over dark grey then add varnish. 👍🏿
  11. Thought it looked warm/creamy like gull grey, but your text said light & dark ghost IIRC... Hopefully that's now all cleared up for @xristosxt 👍🏿
  12. Cheers for the love Dave 👍🏿
  13. See this build by @DaveJL here, its a UAE plane. 36375 & 36320 is what he used according to his WIP
  14. As promised some stuff being sent today. Had a good dig out and its all stuff that I'm not likely to use or going to be replaced. 3 kits, they are 1/72 tomcats, different boxes but all italeri plastic. Some spare/AM decals as most were all gash. Some tools, glue, brushes, cutting mat and thinner/paints too 👍🏿
  15. Looking good! Keep it up mate 🤘🏿
  16. I found that the Xtracrylics varnishes spray best for me when thnned with water. Thin them enough to get a 'wet' coat and reduce air pressure to avoid tip dry and a rough finish 👍🏿
  17. Hi guys, Here's something I've had a problem with the past couple of builds... Don't know if anyone has had similar problems. Main thing is to make people aware of this potential problem - your results may vary but it's happened enough to me now with various decals on different builds that I thought I share this. Almost junked (under a swift heel) my vf32 swordsmen F14 because of it. So this is what AK interactive gauzy intermediate is doing for me lately - crazing on decals when its dry. This makes for a nightmare when applying a panel wash, especially on a light gull grey tomcat. I thought at first with the above mentioned builds is was because I was flashing it off with a hairdrier. As in it was cracking and shrinking back because it was drying too fast? This appears not to be the case because the picture below of my 1/72 f-16 spine was left to dry overnight naturally. (Really zoomed in) Still cracked. Its almost like it cant grip to the smooth decals and 'slips' off of them? Because the surrounding paint is covered fine... I didn't flood them either, misted the first coats on to give it something to grip. This might not be an issue with matt or satin decals but can't be bothered to test. Gonna bin the bottle I think... Never had this problem with aquagloss. Which I think I will revert back to.
  18. Here's something I've had a problem with past couple of builds... Almost junked (under a swift heel) my vf32 swordsmen F14 because of it. So this is what AK interactive gauzy intermediate is doing - crazing on decals when its dry. This makes for a nightmare when applying a panel wash, especially on a light gull grey tomcat. I thought at first with the above mentioned builds is was because I was flashing it off with a hairdrier. As in it was cracking and shrinking back because it was drying too fast. This appears not to be the case because the picture below of my f-16 spine was left to dry overnight naturally. Still cracked. Its almost like it cant grip to the smooth decals and 'slips' off of them? Because the surrounding paint is covered fine... I didn't flood them either, misted the first coats on to give it something to grip. This might not be an issue with matt or satin decals but can't be bothered to test. Gonna bin the bottle I think. Main thing is to make people aware of this potential problem... Never had this problem with aquagloss. Which I think I will revert back to.
  19. My favourite spitfire so far is my 1/48 Eduard mk 8 profi with AM decals. Gold medal at a show last year. (Before I joined britmodeller so no RFI on here) Seconded by my 1/72 Eduard mk 9c NMF
  20. Cutting stars and using spare decals for numbers to tart up fod cover 👍🏿
  21. Decals going on. Despite matching to the blue when on the sheet, they have gone lighter on the grey. Nevermind. Couple other niggles with this build was never going to be perfect anyways. Decals settled down very well though. Need to cut out a star for belly tank as need another large one. Sheet 4 large ones for wing tanks then has smaller ones for baggage pods. Could do with 5 of the large tank stars. And then one for the fod cover I made. Will need to brush paint a 255 on cover too. What the kit lacks and I didn't realise till it was too late as mentioned earlier is the little square canopy rescue panel. This is the point where all the colours convene on the side of the nose. If they are off then the rescue data is off. Which then pushes the stars out of kilter. Everything needs to fall into place. Cause the point of the star fits between the rescue arrow and the grey bump. This side (starboard - no pun intended) is best, other not so good. Guess which side will feature the most in photos! Alot to learn If i build this again or do it in 48th. As I said Turned out ok but could be alot better.
  22. Good recovery! However is the angle of the seat wrong? Doesnt like ok like much room to climb in between it and the front windshield... The pic on the mat with the scalpel in front of it - perhaps cause its a front 3/4-ish rather than full side-on? tony
  23. Thats sweet 👍🏿
  24. Looking good Dave 👍🏿 Very fast work!
  25. Well I guess that's answered the question for me... Theses a few of these 25's being done now so I'll do something different and not on here yet(?) When/if I finally get around to my 25, what I may do is try to add the bump to the kit's nose. If it doesn't work I can fall back on the resin one. Ps sorry to hijack your thread Craig... Tony