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fewr9fkr9595

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Everything posted by fewr9fkr9595

  1. Someone wants you to fail then. Punch them. In some rare cases or small parts perhaps not. Any paint or kit will generally perform & or look better with the assistance of a primer. PS, Assuming we are talking regular tamiya acrylics here. The lacquers or enamels will give more options but still work best over a smooth, prepared and seam/blemish free primed surface.
  2. Waste of time as you’d need to prime again to check seams anyways. Plus you’re making more work for yourself having to clean all mating surfaces.
  3. Very nice mate, looks a clean build however you flipped the right tailcode. It reads HN not NH. Hard to tell exactly on my screen if they are or not but the tail caps and associated markings like the NH/lions and 100’s should all be insignia blue for this jet. Couple other minor things but without reference material to hand or pics of this exact jet then some things are open to debate or artistic license... Also, do the reskit exhausts not come with a mask or decal for the overlap areas? How did you find the canopy fit lengthwise? All of mine have been short so far and required shimming.
  4. Vertical stabs are normally dark ghost grey. Same visual plane as the nose sides so the ‘middle’ grey of the three. Darkest being on top and lightest on undersides. Thats when they are factory fresh. Spot painting/corrosion control and even unit repaints makes them look very different. Seen tails in every shade. I normally use a certain pic as inspiration closest to the jet I am building. Either the actual one or a sister plane from same sqn at a similar time to get a feel for it. Also, the maskol post shade I did at the end after decals etc and helps to blend and weather them too. Not done it as part of the overall preshade process as used black basing mainly past few years. Will be interesting to see how this turns out. Just keep the greys thin so you don’t lose all that hard work. One thing is though is that you have done pretty much every single panel line and rivet on fuselage. Try and keep it more random next time/use reference photos of actual panels that were regularly opened/replaced and then touched up during maintenance. You’re going down the old school route of pre shading every single line which gives a tartan paint job effect like it’s in the Scottish Air Force... Tony
  5. That’s looking great mate! Not too familiar with this jet but do the ecm/rwr bumps (glove vanes, tailplanes, beavertail and one on chinpod need a dab of radome tan/dirty light brown on them? To represent the coating they had on them. Or did they get a fresh coat of gull for this special scheme? Can link/post some pics if you’re not sure which bits I’m on about.
  6. Also if you want to do a jet like the picture you linked - Wolfpak decals do AB105 from that cruise in 1999. I have it in the stash and its a nice sheet. RIP Mark Bilas. 1/72 though.
  7. True to all the above as it’s generic to most sqn and a standard air to air loadout. I have also seen vf102 in the late 90’s with a unique AG combination on the belly pallets - Phoenix on the left and 500lb dumb bomb on the right. Lantirn/Aim9 on right glove pylon. Usual drop tanks. Rest not visible but assume aim7 & 9 on right glove pylon. Not seen any other sqn carry like this and had it in mind for a build one day. Have a pic but can’t post it due to copyright.
  8. The story of my life for the past couple of years... What you can sometimes do is look at navy cruise books. There is a website dedicated to them with scanned and uploaded photos. Along with all the ships crew they also list the airwing with pilots and their mugshots. Note not all books are listed and it’s a case of matching the squadrons to the ships. Also some of the aircrew have may rotated through mid cruise. Normally you can tie down a squadrons paintjob/scheme to a certain narrow timeframe and workout which cruise books to check. I have been able to discern some canopy names by a process of elimination - a made up example - in a photo of a jet you can see/make out ‘LT Jim K-something’ That ‘something’ being a 7 character surname that’s blurry but see it’s starting with a K or whatever in this example. You get lucky in the book of that ships particular cruise when that squadron was onboard - there being a LT James 7 character surname beginning with a K in the aircrew so 99% probability its him. I have yet to get a plane captain (gear door names) from this method as they are generally completely illegible in most pictures and have nothing to work with. Also for pilot/rio names just trawling google image search and various aircraft photo sites and cross referencing BuNo’s can bring up the same jet from different angles to get the part of a name you can’t see in another. Hope some of this helps. Tony
  9. Yeah normally a hole in the rear, but if detail will be lost then I will drill a hole in the area of the body that mounts against the pylons etc. Obviously this won’t be as deep as one up it’s back end so you can’t rely on friction to hold it on. So normally tack them to the toothpicks with a tiny tiny dot of CA and just extra care when handling them. This pic shows both styles of mounting missiles depending on detail in respective areas.
  10. That’s an amazing idea! How does it look over decals? Hopefully not too ‘frosty’ if you know what I mean?
  11. It’s probably the fire panel or ‘beware of blast’? I wouldn’t sweat that mate.
  12. Looking great so far mate. Definitely worth all the effort.
  13. I have dora volume 2, was going to put on ebay this weekend along with some other military books... would you be interested?
  14. Nice work. Are the canopies meant to be at the same angle?
  15. no it’s not there. they give 4 sidewinders. Two early and two later ones. Also in box there are 4 rails in two types for the winders. But two early/std (lau-7) and two later with chaff (lau-138/BOL) If you got another set of matching rails and missiles from a second kit (to do the 4 winder set up) you would still need the small wedge adapter to attach to underside of glove pylon. I will be releasing one of those as a resin AM part one day.
  16. Nice build, it’s a very novel idea and not a bad execution but too gimmicky for me. All I can see is a pair of wonky frozen carrots propping up a model. I reckon if they were a smoother taper and perfectly parallel it would be better? From some angles they look spot on but then others not so much. Perhaps make a nice smooth tapered master shape turned on a lathe, make a mould of it then cast an identical pair in resin? They can then be drilled for lights and painted etc. Tony
  17. @armored76 A picture paints a thousand words they say. Sold one recently so took some pics. I don’t use a bag as that could put unnecessary pressure on delicate parts, or leave unsupported voids as bags aren’t plane shaped. May be different for box shaped afv’? Anyways - here they are in a self explanatory sequence of packing. Cheers, Tony Link to sold plane - https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005104-sold-eduard-148-bf109g6-jg300-kurt-gabler-not-very-nmf/
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