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Everything posted by Mike

  1. aboard Tom... just don't give anyone your address, or they'll rob your stash! A Takom KT is a good armour project to have a start on, as it's a nicely detailed, modern kit. Good luck with it
  2. Looks a bit creepy from the trailers, but worth a go. Doesn't it say there was a virus that made everyone infertile, so anyone that was immune is a designated baby-factory? Or did I dream that?
  3. Evening folks. We've got a member that's locked out of the site through no fault of his own. We've not punted him, he's not blocked by the forum software or by the server's defences, any yet whenever he tries to access BM, he gets the same response. "This website is not available". So the question is. Any of you logging in from Talk Talk? If they're your ISP (Internet Service Provider), please pipe up so we can go some way to eliminating them from the equation. TIA Mike.
  4. FFVS J-22A Swedish WWII Fighter 1:48 Planet Models During the early years of WWII, the Swedish Flygvapnet were stymied in their attempts to acquire replacements for their ageing Gladiators due to various practical impossibilities, so the company FFVS was set up specifically to design and build a new fighter, as the rest of Sweden's aviation industry was already working flat-out to produce their own aircraft. The design was completed around an un-licensed P&W R-1380 radial engine, and had a plywood exterior skin over metal framework, which saved weight as well as strategic materials. After a short period of trials it entered service in 1943, and became a mainstay of the Swedish Airforce, with excellent speed and handling characteristics, but suffering from the lack of supercharger, the performance fell away as the altitude increased. It was well matched to the possible opposition fighters, and the pilots were confident of their beloved fighter's abilities. Relatively unknown in the West, the J-22 stayed in service relatively unchanged until the early 50s when jet engines were becoming the norm. In all, almost 200 were delivered, and the Swedes are rightfully proud of their diminutive fighter's long and faithful service. The Kit My initial reaction to this release was "a what now?", but it immediately appealed due to its slightly left-field nature, and because it's Swedish, and I like Swedish things. Planet Models are Special Hobby's resin brand, producing kits that might not otherwise be made due to their subject matter. I know a lot of folks run screaming when they hear that dreaded "resin" preposition to the word kit, but these days you're not really going to need to freak out if you choose your manufacturer wisely. These kits can be as detailed and easy to build as a short to medium run styrene kit, and due to the relatively mainstream use of Photo-Etch (PE) and white metal, the delicate parts aren't all that weak. This kit is number 264 in their range, and is one of their smaller offerings, arriving in an almost figure-sized top-opening box with a simple but nicely executed profile adorning the top and ends. Inside are a set of heat-sealed compartmentalised bags that will be familiar to many of you, with resin, vacformed, PE parts and a large set of decals to round out the package. The instructions are colour printed onto loose leaf A4 paper, with the first page taken up with a history section, and a diagram of all the parts, numbering 50 in grey resin, three in white metal, one in clear resin, two in vacform plastic (duplicates), a sheet of PE parts, a clear pre-printed acetate film, and the aforementioned decals. The pouring blocks are shown on the diagram as dotted lines, so you are aware of what should and shouldn't be removed before construction begins. The general process is to remove all the casting stubs, clean up the parts and then wash them in warm soapy water, or an ultrasonic bath if you have one. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Construction begins with the cockpit around the L-shaped floor, adding cross-braces, control stick, rudder pedals and the lamination of PE, acetate and resin for the instrument panel. The seat is supplied with a set of seatbelts, and sidewall details are casting into the fuselage halves, which will need painting before closure around the tub and the metal tail wheel. The coaming fits over the instrument panel, and is joined by a gunsight and armoured windscreen panel later in the build. Attention then turns to filling the cowling, with the Twin Wasp depicted by a half-rendering of the rearmost bank of pistons on the bulkhead, and a full set at the front, to which you will need to add some wire for the pushrods. A choice of two exhaust types are glued to the rear of the bulkhead, and the completed assembly is mounted on the front of the fuselage, with a keyed join ensuring correct alignment. The cowling slips over the engine, and the prop is added, made up from a back-plate, three individual blades and a spinner. The canopy is vacformed, which also gives modellers the willies, but if you take your time, fill the interior with blutak and cut lightly multiple times, things should go according to plan, even if you want to open up the canopy by cutting it fore and aft. In case you slip, two copies are included so fret not! Machine guns, antennae and pitot probes are added along with the metal gear, nicely detailed wheels, and gear bay doors for the tail wheel. A scrap diagram shows the correct head-on profile to assist you in getting things aligned properly, and a dab of epoxy should provide a strong joint between the resin and metal parts. For camouflage option B, underwing blisters and small fairings around the rear support struts, and additional leading struts on the main gear are added for accuracy. Markings There are two decal options included on the sheet, both wearing the same basic olive green over blue-grey. From the box you can build either of the following: FFVS J-22 s/n 22129, Yellow S, 3rd Division, F3, Linköping, 1950 – White horseman on the cowling, white exercise stripes on wings and fuselage, yellow/black spinner. FFVS J-22 s/n 22140, Red M, 3rd Division, F9, 1945 – red spinner and devil motif on the cowling. The decals are printed anonymously, but appear to be in good registration, but a little translucent in places, especially the numeral 9, on which the white under-printing appears to have been omitted. The pattern on the base paper shows through the white, which could be a problem over the olive green and where the fuselage roundel passes through the demarcation line. It is a slight weakpoint of the kit, but Flying Colours Aerodecals produce tons of decals for Swedish aircraft if you feel the need to replace them. Conclusion With the exception of the slightly sub-par decals, this is a wonderful and intriguing kit that has plenty to recommend it. It's a difficult task to resist wanting to build it straight away! Highly recommended. In stock soon Review sample courtesy of
  5. That'll make the review easy then. It's good, sands well and is robust. End of story.
  6. Don't worry - we're watching you now
  7. Funnily enough, I've just been crusing Planet Models looking at all their weird and cool German projects. I could have spent a fortune! Shame this isn't 1:48, but my wallet thanks you for it being too small for me
  8. As emergency landings go, it was textbook. Just a shame it happened. If Red Bull are planning on getting their Cobra back in the air after disembowling itself with its own rotors, I'm hopeful the Sea Vixen is going to recover.
  9. I gave up cleaning my sprues before I started a model, mainly because I often forgot, but I've not noticed any difference, and I'll bet that a lot more finger oils are added during the build process than mould release. In fact, having seen a number of videos of injection moulding being done, I've never seen any release being added. If I felt the sprues and they were greasy, I probably would give 'em a bath though, and insist on doing that to any resin kit I build, as they really can be gopping with the stuff. A light sand with a very fine stick to key the surface microscopically, and a decent primer such as Alclad, Ultimate, Stylnrez (or however you spell it), or maybe even Ammo's new One-Shot primer (review pending by Dave), and you're usually good to go. Knock back the primer with a fine stick too, and you should have an almost perfect surface for your paint. Remember that acrylics are less robust than enamels, so handle them accordingly, with a coat of clear gloss advisable if you're going to do a fair amount of model groping during decaling or similar
  10. Here here That canopy jettison is quite energetic, isn't it? No chance of that getting caught on the tail (which I'd imagine is the whole idea).
  11. Sukhoi Su-17 M3/M4 Fitter-K 1:48 Kittyhawk The Su-17, with its NATO reporting name Fitter was derived from the earlier Su-7 as a project to improve its low speed handling, particularly during take-off and landing. It was Sukhoi's first attempt at variable geometry wings, and when it reached service was the Soviet Union's first swing-wing aircraft in service. To keep the project costs down, the centre section of the wing remained fixed, with the outer able to swing back for high-speed flight, and forward for slow. A pronounced spine was also added to the rear of the cockpit to carry additional fuel and avionics that were necessary with the advances in aviation. The first airframes reached service in the early 70s, and were soon replaced by more advanced models with the designation M3 and M4, designated Fitter-H and –K respectively by the Allies. The M3 was based on a larger fuselage and had additional weapons options, while the M4 was further developed and was considered to be the pinnacle of the Fitter line with a heavily upgraded avionics suite including improved targeting, navigation, and yet more weapons options, as well as improved engines. A downgraded version of the M4 was marketed as the Su-22M4, and was in production until 1990! Although the Su-17 was withdrawn from Soviet service in the late 1990s, it remained in service much longer in its export guise, where it was used by both Iran and Iraq, Libya and Angola to name but a few, where it had variable success, which likely had as much to do with pilot skill and training as the merits of the airframe. The Kit A new Su-17 model has been needed for a few years now in 1:48, and this is a new tooling from Kittyhawk that dropped onto our radar relatively recently. The previous best kit was getting a bit long in the tooth, and needed plenty of TLC to coax a good model out of it. The box is fairly standard Kittyhawk (KH) fare, with a pair of Su-17s in formation on the lid, and inside, plenty of plastic in their familiar pale grey styrene. The sprues are large, and it appears that their annoying habit of folding sprues over while still warm is dying out slowly, with detail and crispness on the increase. Gone also are the large ejector-pin turrets in every intake, although a few are still there in the engine parts, but won't be seen. The fuselage is split fore-aft, which hopefully means we'll be treated to a two-seat UM in due course, but as always don't hold your breath, just cross your fingers. The usual generosity in terms of weapons and stores is still present, with almost a third of the sprues devoted to things to hang off your finished model, which is always nice to see. Inside the box are nine sprues in light grey styrene, one in clear, a small sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, and two decal sheets, one of which is substantially larger than the other. The instruction booklet completes the package, and first impressions are good – it might even get a build review if I can find the time! Construction begins with the ejection seat, which is nicely detailed with PE belts included, which show a lot more detail than previous efforts from KH, which is good to see. The cockpit is built from a series of parts, including the control column, rudder pedals, side consoles and the instrument panel, the last two of which have decals provided for the instrument details. The coaming and HUD are added to the front of the cockpit, with a clear part forming the HUD glazing. Following this the engine is constructed from quite a number of parts, with only the aft end visible if you left off the aft fuselage section, which is possible although not considered in the instructions. The exhaust nozzle is built from sections and surrounded by a ring, showing the actuators around its circumference, which when painted should give a good impression of the original. The engine and exhaust are then sandwiched between the forward part of the aft fuselage, and the aft part of the aft fuselage (confused yet?) is built up with air-brake bays and added around the exhaust. Jumping around somewhat confusingly, the tail with separate rudder is then made up, followed by the nose gear bay, which is again made from individual panels for extra detail. The gear leg is fitted at this stage, but with some care could be left off until later if you feel it would be safer to do that. The cockpit, nose bay and the intake shock-cone (including clear panel) and then trapped between the forward fuselage halves, and this is mated to the aft section, at which point the avionics spine is added in sections, which overlap the fuselage joints for strength. Detailing the fuselage with a host of small, delicate parts seems a little optimistic to this ham-fisted modeller, but if you fancy your chances, go ahead. There are a number of scabbed-on chaff and flare dispensers down the fuselage sides, which are provided with PE attachment brackets that will require a little bending to put in position, so steel yourself if you're not a big fan of PE. The twin prongs on the nose are also added, the pitot probe having all the usual vanes added from styrene parts that are VERY small, so take care not to lose them. The windscreen fits to the sill around the coaming, and the canopy is designed to be posed open, with a styrene fitment to the rear that mates with the notch behind the cockpit. At this stage of the build your Fitter looks little more than a fancy tube with a wheel at one end and a fin at the other. The wings are built as assemblies next, although I'd be tempted to leave off the gear again for fear of breakage, but the instruction advise otherwise. The main gear legs are single parts with three small ancillary struts, one of which stabilises the large captive bay door that hangs down outboard of the leg. The gear bay roof detail is moulded into the underside of the upper wing, while the walls are added separately, as are the optionally open gun bays in the leading edge of the inner wing section. The outer wings are made up from a single centre section with separate flaps and slats, which then attach to a pin in the outer edge of the inner wing section, held in place after the addition of the lower half. A small bay door, actuator jack for the gear and the aforementioned gun bay doors are added underneath, and above the two large strakes fit into their respective slots. Repeat in a mirror for the other wing, and you're done. The wing roots fit into their slots in the fuselage, where you will also find an inner main bay wall, so remember to paint that when you're doing the rest of the bay, or you'll end up cursing. The elevators are both single parts that fit on a pivoting pin, and with the addition of the inner wing flap sections that's the main build done. As already mentioned, there are a substantial quantity of weapons for the many pylons on the inner wings and belly. The decision to place all the weapons on the static parts of the airframe saved money and weight developing rotating pylon mounts such as those seen on the Panavia Tornado. In the box you get the following: 2 x BETAB-500 iron bombs 2 x OFAB-250-SZN iron bombs 4 x FAB-250-M54 iron bombs 4 x FAB-250-M62 iron bombs 4 x SAB-100 flare 2 x RBK-500-250 cluster bomb 2 x FAB-500-M54 iron bombs 2 x Fuel Tanks 1 x SPS-141 ECM Pod 2 x B-13 122mm rocket pod 4 x F2B-250-TS iron bomb 2 x KH-23 Kerry missile with APU-68 adaptor rail 1 x SPPU-22 23mm gun pod 2 x UBK-23 gun pods 2 x B-8M rocket pods 2 x S-25L rocket 2 x UB-32 rocket pods BATAB-500-ZD bunker buster bomb 2 x S-24 rocket 2 x R-73 Archer A2A missile 2 x R-60 Aphid short-range A2A missile 1 x KKR-1T Recce pod Quite a list! The parts are all well-detailed, with separate fins and nosecones where applicable, exhausts and other parts including further adapter rails all supplied. The decal sheet contains stencils for them all, with a double page giving a complete stencilling and painting guide. Markings There are a generous seven decal options with the kit, all of which is detailed in the centre pages of the instruction booklet, folding out to double size, which although it disrupts the flow of the construction a tad is an improvement on their early kits, as you at least get a full set of profiles from the major angles, and it is all of a reasonable size. These pages are in colour, and you can pull them out of the booklet if you feel the need, which I did a moment ago. From the box you can build one of the following: Su-17M3R 313 ORAP based at Vizavi Bagram, May 1988 – green/earth camouflage over blue undersides wearing red 01. Su-17M4 43rd OMShAE, Black Sea Fleet, Gvardeiskoe Field, Crimea, Jan 1998 - green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing yellow 40. Su-17M4 274th APIB, Afghanistan 1988 - green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing blue 23. Su-17M3 Russian Air Force, red 95 – all over natural metal. Su-17M4R 886th ORAP, 15th VA Afghanistan war - green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing blue 07. Su-17M3 red 50 – green upper over blue undersides. Su-17M4 Ukrainian Air Force – green/earth camouflage over blue undersides, wearing Yellow 50. Previously, Kittyhawk's decals have been of variable quality, but there is an improvement in this sheet, although there is a small mis-registration of the white or red that affects a couple of the decals with borders, but it shouldn't notice too much. Otherwise the other colours are in good register, sharpness is better, as is colour density. The smaller sheet contains the instrument panels and some emblems that required a different printing process. Conclusion A modern tooling of this aircraft, with its aggressive look and wide use, was long overdue and this scale and now it's here. Detail is good from the box, the weapons provided are unbelievably generous in scope and quantity, and improvements to the engineering and finish of the kit appear to have been made. I haven't been over the kit with a fine toothed-comb checking each rivet yet, but I'm sure any inconsistencies will come out in the wash, as no kit made by imperfect beings such as us can be absolutely perfect. The discussion has started already in the Rumourmonger forum for those that are interested here. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops.
  12. Hadn't seen those pics, thanks. Caused by gear failure, I guess? The pilot did a good job keeping it all under control, and that pic of the canopy going for a fly on its own is quite spectacular, if a little (lot) sad. If anyone's looking from the owner's company, I bet there would be a more than a few folks willing to offer up a few shekels to help get her back into the air.
  13. I loved seeing her back in her proper colours. I hope she's going to be alright Also, hope the pilot's not too shaken up. It's a good thing he had so much aeroplane between him and the tarmac. Am I right in seeing no canopy during the crash-landing? Probably sensibly jettisoned it for ease of escape, so she'll need a new one unless it landed on something soft.
  14. That's an expensive gust of wind Good to hear that it's to be repaired. Looks like it was in great condition beforehand
  15. Superb little kits, and they look good together
  16. Horch 108 Type 40 with German Infantry 1:35 ICM The original 108 was a design that dated from 1937 for a light 4x4 vehicle for the Wehrmacht, which was updated in 1940 to include an internally mounted spare wheel. Due to reliability issues they were retired from production in 1942 to be replaced by the new Kubelwagen that was not only cheaper, but more robust and reliable too. The remaining vehicles were used until they could no-longer be repaired, but many made it to the end of WWII. The Kit This is a relatively new tooling from ICM, dating from 2015, but adding in a set of figures to improve the overall value. The box art has been redone to show a Panzer Grey example with a group of four figures, although the instruction booklet is from the earlier boxing and has a Sand Yellow vehicle stood alone. The instructions for the figures are given on the two additional sheets that have been slipped inside the main booklet, which makes a lot of sense from a layout and cost point of view. Inside the usual box-within-a-lid that ICM favour are nine sprues in sand yellow styrene, plus a clear sprue, a floppy sprue of black rubberised tyres, a small decal sheet and the aforementioned instruction booklet. The model is built up on its ladder chassis, including the engine, transmission, suspension with nicely moulded springs, plus body supports, brake hoses and exhaust system. Overall it's a very neatly detailed underside, with the engine being the focal-point. The hubs are split between inner and outer halves, which facilitates easy painting of the wheels and tyres separately, and installation of the tyres on the hubs without stuggle. The coachwork is assembled on the floor plate, which has the rear wheel arches moulded in and stops at the firewall, with spaces for the driver's pedals in the left footwell. The body sides are added, with moulded-in framework, and the dashboard is fitted between them to stabilise the assembly. The dash has a decal for the instruments, a handgrip for the co-driver, heater ducting and a lever beneath the steering column, which is added later. The front inner arches are glued to the underside of the body, and a rear load cover with moulded-in seatback is applied over the rear arches, after which the two rear doors and their handles are installed. A delicate (in this scale) framework is fitted between the rear seats and the driver's area, with the fifth wheel behind the driver, and two bench seats facing each other in the rear compartment, which also have delicate framework under their cushions. The front seats are individual, but of similar construction, and have space for the supplied KAR98 rifles between them, with two more pairs fitted in the rear compartment. The windscreen is of the flip-down type, and has two separate panes added to the frame, with no windows supplied for the sides, as it is modelled with the hood down. The doors can be fitted opened or closed, with their own separate handles inside and out. Once the chassis and body are mated, more of the underpinnings are added, and the radiator with cooling fan are attached along with the louvered bonnet and front bumper irons. At the rear the hood is constructed from four parts, sitting on top of the load cover in a folded state, as there isn't an option for a raised hood on this variant. Wing mirrors, pioneer tools, front headlights with clear lenses, and number plates are dotted around to finish off the build. Figures Two medium sized and one small sprue are devoted to the figure included in this boxing, depicting an officer discussing directions or tactics with one solider, while a machine-gunner carrying his MG34 and his ammo-man walk past, the latter laden down with two spare ammo cans, and the former draped with a length of ammo around his neck. The ammo is on the small sprue, and is so thin that it is flexible enough to form to shape, then tack with a trace of glue. All figures have gas mask containers, canteen, entrenching tool, daysack, pistol, MP40 pouches, binoculars (for the officer) and even bayonets included, which are all given detailed painting instructions on one sheet, while the main painting guide fills the other sheet with full colour printing. Markings Four decal options are supplied on the small sheet, with unit, number plate and tyre pressure stencils being about all that is to be seen. All options are from the Eastern front, with three shown in Panzer Grey, and one in the Sand Yellow scheme used later in the war. From the box you can build one of the following: 8.Pz.Div, Soviet Baltic, 1941 – grey Russia, Summer 2942 – grey Russian, Autumn, 1942 – grey KG 51, Russia, Summer 1943 – Dark Yellow '43 Conclusion A nice detailed model that benefits from the addition of the figures. A driver figure would have been nice to see, but as you're getting four well-sculpted chaps already, that feels a bit churlish. You can build it buttoned up, or with the bonnet, doors and tail-gate all hanging open, so it lends itself to inclusion in a diorama. Review sample courtesy of
  17. aboard, and a rather nice job on that Y-Wing, especially given the scale
  18. I've got two of those things, but I'm missing the important one, and it's not for sale anywhere. I've checked
  19. Congrats Radders - it's a life changing thing, but at least your stash is safe, with her being a girl We had the same kind of thing about 7 years ago now, and I wouldn't change a thing
  20. ICM

    Ju-88A-11 1:48 ICM (48235) The Ju-88 was designed as a schnellbomber in the mid 30s, and at the time it was faster than current fighter designs, so it was projected that it could infiltrate, bomb and exfiltrate without being intercepted. That was the theory anyway. By the time WWII began in the west, fighters had caught up with the previously untouchable speed of the 88, and it needed escorting to protect it from its Merlin equipped opponents. It turned out to be a jack of all trades however, and was as competent as a night fighter, dive bomber or doing reconnaissance as it was bombing Britain. They even popped a big gun on the nose and sent it against tanks and bombers, with variable success. The A series sported a pair of Jumo 211 engines in cylindrical cowlings producing over 1,000hp each, and was improved gradually up until the A-17, with the A-11 being the official designation for the factory produced tropicalized version. It was fitted with filters to protect the engine from dust and dirt, as well as a rescue kit for ditching and forced landings. The Kit This is a new variation on the original tooling of an A-5 that was release recently by ICM, with new parts added to make it version specific. There are new engine nacelles and props; new fin and rudder; changes to the cockpit mounted machine-guns, and different glazing options are chosen from the same clear sprue. The box is the usual top-opening with an inner lid style, and inside you will find eight sprues in grey styrene, one in clear, decal sheet and a glossy covered instruction booklet with spot colour inside, and the decal options in full colour on the back cover. If you have been lucky enough to see the A-5, you'll know that detail is right up there in terms of quality and crispness, with ICM really improving over the last few years, which has to be great news for modellers, as they aren't frightened of tackling what to us may seem niche subject matters. With the sprue-related excitement out of the way, work on the fuselage begins with the addition of sidewall details in the capacious cockpit area. Rear bulkhead, side consoles and seats are all added to the cockpit sides for a change, with an insert in the fuselage for the circular antenna and tail wheel added into the starboard side. The instrument panel is supplied with decals, and fits into the fuselage during joining. The missing floor is added to the lower fuselage panel that includes the lower parts of the inner wings and gives the structure some strength. It also receives the rudder pedals, control column, and the two remaining crew seats before being joined to the fuselage. The tail plane has articulated flying surfaces, and the wings are supplied as top and bottom, with the flaps and ailerons separate from the box, and neat curved fairings so they look good when fitted at an angle. The flaps include the rear section of the soon-to-be-fitted nacelles, which are added as separate parts to avoid sink-marks, and these and the ailerons run full-span, terminating just as the wingtip begins. This variant was fitted with the under-fuselage gondola, and each side has separate glazing panels inserted from inside, and a seam running vertically through its length. It is added to the hole in the underside of the fuselage, with the front and rear glazing plus zwilling mounted machine guns later in the build. At this time the landing gear is made up on a pair of upstands that are added to the underwing in preparation for the installation of the nacelle cowlings. The engines have to be built up first though, consisting of a high part count with plenty of detail, and a rear firewall that securely fits inside the cowling. Even though this is an in-line engine with a V-shaped piston layout, the addition of the annular radiators gives it the look of a radial, with their representation added to the front of the cowling, obscuring much of the engine detail. The side panels can be left off to show all that detail however, and I'm sure Eduard will be along with some in-scale opened panels in due course (there might be some in my inbox, thinking about it!). The cooling flaps around the cowling are separate, and the exhausts have separate stacks, which aren't hollow but are large enough to make boring them out with a drill a possibility. The completed nacelle fit to the underwing over the top of the main gear installation, securing in place with four pegs, two on each side of each nacelle. The props are made from spinner, backplate and a single piece containing all three blades, sliding onto a pin projecting from the engine front, which will require some glue if you want to keep them on. At this point the instructions recommend adding the canopy glazing, which consists of a choice of two faceted nose cones, and the main greenhouse for the cockpit aperture. The rear portion is made from two additional parts due to its double "blown" shape to accommodate the two rearward gun positions, so that the gunner's head isn't pressed against the canopy. The guns are fitted through the windscreen and the two circular ports on the rear, although no ammo feed is supplied. Under the wings the dive spoilers are added with four bomb crutches on aerodynamic mounts, with bombs supplied that have two of their fins moulded separately, along with the stabilising struts that fit into notches in the fins. While the airframe is flipped over, the two-part wheels and twin main gear bay doors are added, both having good detail and the former a radial tread. Addition of the canopy mounted antenna completes the build, but this is likely to be done long after main painting for safety's sake! Markings The kit includes two markings options from the relevant theatre, and the first page of the painting section details the application of the numerous stencils that are supplied in the kit. There are no Swastikas on the sheet, but the Balkenkreuz are included, with a portion separated into narrow sections to ease decaling the dive spoilers. From the box you can build one of the following: Junkers Ju.88A-11 3./LG 1, North Afrika, 1942 – Afrika Brown over Hellblau RLM 65 Junkers Ju.88A-11 I./LG 1, North Afrika, 1942 – Afrika Brown with Dunkelgrun RLM 71 patches over Hellblau RLM 65 The colours are picked out using letters that correspond to a table on the front page, which gives the names and paint codes in Revell and Tamiya ranges, so should be easy to convert to your paint system of choice. The decals are printed in-house and have good register, colour density and sharpness, with additional instrument dials included on a clear carrier film to help with cockpit painting. All of the stencils are legible, and overall they inspire confidence, with a thin carrier film cut close to the printing, with a few exceptions where lettering has film that could have been dispensed with to reduce the menace of silvering. Conclusion ICM's range of Ju.88s and Do.17s are a good example of how far they have come in recent years, adding value to their brand, and improving their reputation with each release. The kit is well-detailed and comprehensive in what it includes, and with a nice pair of decal options it says "build me". Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  21. You may remember that we once did a "Kits for Kandahar" campaign to keep the squaddies entertained during those long hot stints out in the sandier areas of Afghanistan. That was a very successful and fun way of giving a little back to our boys in MTP, but this time we're trying to raise some supplies for those that have done their stint, and come home with injuries of one sort or another due to their time there. Malcolm Childs has been in touch asking if we can be of assistance as follows: The Help for Heroes Tedworth House Recovery Centre near Salisbury provides occupational therapy to veterans and injured service men and women. The residents can be suffering from a range of injuries from PTSD to Brain and Spinal Injury. The goal at Tedworth House is to support their treatment and help them back into employment. Art Therapy is used to introduce the residents to new activities through a communicative outlet encouraging focus, patience and fine motor skills. Scale Modelling is one of the courses that is offered and Malcolm volunteers, running the sessions supported by the Occupational Therapist team. The sessions are 1 hour with approximately 10 people. It gives the residents an opportunity to start a kit and experience the hobby, many possibly for the very first time. Following that a voluntary evening session is offered for residents to finish their models and to discuss how they can continue the hobby at home through online forums, magazines, IPMS branches etc. The Recovery Centre is entirely charity driven and so to offer the best experience they need donations of model kits and making materials. For example:cutting mats, glues, clippers, paints, brushes, and model making magazines. We need donations of small simple model kits (preferably not current military vehicles). Following the sessions the kits and materials may be taken home by residents for completion. During the session Malcolm will endeavour to photograph some builds and post them up for our enjoyment. Any questions: You can also contact him here under the username Malcchilds. I've put the email address in as a graphic to stop him getting spammed, so if you're emailing him, transcribe the address carefully. You can also now contact them by the delights of Social Media and Twitter @modelsforheroes Donations should be sent to: (Models for Heroes) Malcolm Childs 1 Harrier Road Bishops Green NEWBURY RG20 4AB We've ordered a bunch of A4 cutting mats for the lads & lasses, and we're going to have a look in our collective stashes for some simple kits to bump start the campaign. If you've got anything that you can spare and think it might be suitable, Malcolm with be very happy to hear from you.
  22. You know what, I didn't actually know you could drag and drop a pic into the forum from the web. There you go... we've all learned summit today
  23. It would be awesome Petr.... it is big, but not too big, and if us modellers are ok with a 1:48 Lanc, I think a Sundy, and dare I say it a Stirling in 1:48 would be grail-type material for a lot of folks, not just me. Why mention a Stirling? Shared heritage, and some commonality of wing parts, IIRC? It's a long time since I've been delving into the types, but I think that's the case? Maybe someone with more info and a better memory might be able to help clarify. So ends my begging letter Sorry for the
  24. Speaking as someone with a 1:48 Herc and an Alpha Flight Sundy, I am not old son
  25. You need a RasPi, an LCD screen and some coding skills.... make it happen!