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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

Mike

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Everything posted by Mike

  1. Takom

    FV432 Mk.3 Bulldog 1:35 Takom Dating back to the 1960, the design for this British front-line "battle taxi" has undergone many changes over the years, and many British Army soldiers will be hugely familiar with this robust, quirky little vehicle. Originally to have been declared obsolete and sent to the scrapyard or into private hands, the eruption of hostilities in the Middle East saw renewed use for the 432, and in light of experience gained in that theatre, a thousand chassis were upgraded and zero-houred to the new Mark 3 standard, including new steering, braking and propulsion systems, as well as reactive armour and even air-conditioning units for those bound for the sandbox were fitted. In addition, new systems were employed to protect the crew and passengers from the perils of asymmetric combat, in the shape of IEDs and RPGs. Along with a number of other vehicles in theatre, perhaps in a psy-ops style attempt to give the 432 some "fear factor", the upgraded vehicles were christened "Bulldog" to represent their pugnacious character and their by-now broad beam. A heavily modified 432 (probably one of those sold off before the need arose) was seen performing duties as a Hover Tank in the new Star Wars film, Rogue One. The Kit Lots of British AFV fans were very pleased about Takom's announcement of a new series of models of this iconic and popular vehicle, which allowed them to push their ancient and iffy Academy kits to the back of the shelf, or offload them to a well-known auction site. This is the second issue from Takom, the first being the 2/1 that came with a full interior, which we sadly missed due to unforeseen circumstances. The Bulldog boxing is a substantially new issue due to the massive differences between the kits, and as we've not yet reviewed its stablemate, we'll start at the very beginning. The box is the now traditional Takom style with separate lid, and individually bagged sprues (with the exception of the multiple sprues) inside, which are resealable if you're one of those folks that like to rebag your sprues after fondling them (you wierdos!). In addition to the ten grey sprues and two hull halves, there is a sprue of clear parts, a small Photo-Etch (PE) fret, a decal sheet, a track jig, and the instructions with integrated painting and markings guide. Not unusually, construction begins with the lower hull and the many suspension parts being added, lined up using the holes in the track jig mentioned above. This is repeated both sides, and the twelve road wheels and two drive sprockets are made up in readiness. The sprocket and one road wheel are placed in the jig and are dressed with the link and length tracks, with two being needed, so a bit of a delay will be necessary to allow the first run to set up before you can start the second. Scrap diagrams show how the finished article should look from both sides, and above the sponson floor the sidewalls are fitted, with a number of mounts moulded-in to accept the stand-off reactive armour. The exhaust is directed along the left side and exits at deck height toward the rear of the vehicle, which is also added at this time. Large stowage boxes fit either side of the wide rear door, and a number of small holes are drilled out in preparation for the fitting of detailing parts. The separate sponson rear ends have long mudflaps added from PE, and the door is made up with ammo boxes fitted to the inside, plus handle and number plate on the outside. The glacis plate has a change of angle around half way up, and is built from two sections to accommodate this (the upper section moulded into the deck), with ERA blocks fitted to the fixed section and slat armour added over the hatch on the lower section. More slat armour panels are fitted below the nose, with light clusters and sensor boxes for good measure. The deck is full of holes at this point, but has pioneer tools and copious smoke grenade launchers installed before attachment to the model, which first needs the outer shell constructing before fitting. Engine ventilation covers are added to the right side of the hull, and are immediately covered by the outer hull panel and its appliqué armour, which has a separate top panel for preservation of detail. This is repeated on the other side, allowing the fitment of the glacis and deck panels, which are detailed with the hatches and grilles to fill all those holes bar the main "turret ring" at the rear, and the commander's cupola, which is added later with clear vision blocks. Additional slat-armour corner parts are inserted in the gaps to protect those areas, and this is repeated at the rear, with the air conditioning box perched on the very back of the deck, overhanging the rear door and decked with aerials and jammer antennae. The rear of the vehicle has a complicated set of slat armour panels that allow the rear door to operate, with bracing struts preventing strumming over rough ground. More sensors, antennae, the rear clamshell top hatch, and the large crew station are built and added, the latter made from a substantial number of parts, which provides more than adequate protection for the top cover man, with shields and armoured glazing all around his GPMG station, which can also be operated remotely from inside thanks to the TV box on the opposite side of the mount to the ammo can. Markings Takom and Ammo hooked up to do the colour and markings options fairly early on, and this carries on in the back pages of the instruction booklet. There are three decal options, all of which are applied over a sand yellow base, with little to differentiate other than the weapons fit and unit markings. From the box you can build one of the following: 1st Battalion Scots Guards Reconnaissance Platoon, Operation Telic, Southern Iraq, January 2008 – Yellow 12 marking on rear and unshrouded GPMG on the upper deck. 1st Battalion Scots Guards Reconnaissance Platoon, Operation Telic, Southern Iraq, January 2008 – Rob Roy on sides, shrouded GPMG on the cupola. 1st Battalion Scots Guards Reconnaissance Platoon, Operation Telic, Southern Iraq, January 2008 – Robert Bruce on sides, and unshrouded GPMG on the upper deck. The decals are printed anonymously, and due to their simplicity there is little need for register (which seems good anyway), with the lighter colours appearing suitably dense. There is a tiny amount of over-printing of the yellow around the white backing, but that should disappear on a sand coloured backdrop. A little variation in units would have been nice to see, but as there's not much in the way of decals anyway, it wouldn't be too hard to build your own choice of subject, taking note of the personalisations to the vehicles. Conclusion The FV432 is long overdue in 1:35, and this seems to hit the spot. If you've spent a lot of time around these vehicles as some of my friends have, you'll be bound to pick up some things that might need attention, but for the majority of us (self included), this is a welcome addition to Takom's increasing armour range. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  2. BAC Lightning F2A/F6 Electronics Bays (for Airfix/Eduard) 1:48 CMK from Special Hobby The Cold War Warrior English Electric Lightning was rammed full of engines stacked one on top of the other to achieve those legendary point-to-point speeds and time to altitude figures, so avionics had to be squeezed in where it would fit. The Lightning's spine was therefore full of greeblies, as were the sides of the fuselage wherever a little space could be found and utilised, with maintenance notoriously tricky. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. There are twenty seven resin parts inside, with the first step being the removal of the panels that are supplied, namely the aft section of the spine, plus two small panels on the port side, one under the rear of the cockpit aperture, the other below the airbrake. The smaller panels are box boxed in behind with a shell, into which some small detail parts are added, and around the edge, fine resin edges are supplied, with a few spares in case you break or lose some. The spine insert fits into the open top of the fuselage, and is supplied with a nicely moulded spine cowling to pose open. The smaller boxes also have their panels included for placement nearby, to complete the scene. Ground crew were often seen fishing around inside a Lightning, and still are if you visit the Thunder and Lightnings days are Bruntingthorpe. Review sample courtesy of
  3. It's ages since I used them - it might be an idea to have a word with Martin @HGW Models - he's a decent chap, and won't mind helping you out one bit
  4. It gets a bit confusing due to the terminology used. IIRC (I haven't got my sets easily to hand, sorry!), there's a sheet of tracing paper stylee stuff there that is easily removable, but there's also a clear film that covers the whole sheet. That's the stuff you leave attached til later. I think... I'm trying to think where I could find a set, as the ones I have are buried under dozens of kits. You've seen my workshop
  5. P-38F Turbochargers & Air Intakes (648285 for Academy) 1:48 Eduard Brassin The Academy P-38 is about the best of the kits available of this attractive and capable aircraft in 1:48, but even they need a little help to reach modern standards, so here is some of that help. This set was released late last year, but fell victim to the back of one of my cupboards, and has only just come back to light. On the basis that it's better late than never, and due to the fact that they're still in stock at Eduard, here they are. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. Inside are twelve resin parts and a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) to add the fine details. Due to the way the turbochargers are semi-recessed in the top of the engine nacelles, they have a front and rear portion, plus two intakes each, one above and one below the wings. The kit intakes and a strake must be removed first, and the strake is replaced by a fine PE part, with a PE heat shield around the "banjo" end of the turbo. Pretty simple, all told! When handling resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Review sample courtesy of
  6. aboard Dave. If you're going to use acrylics, just remember that they're not as tough as enamels, so you'll be better off priming before painting, and treating painted surfaces carefully until you've got clear coats over them. There are loads of helpful folks on this here forum, and they'll be more than happy to give you any assistance you need to grow as a modeller. That's one of the things that makes Britmodeller my favourite forum, all personal bias aside
  7. Here's a couple of reviews I've done on the sets: You cut 'em out with the foil attached to the front, apply them with the foil attached, and remove the foil some hours later, leaving the printing sat on your model and no annoying carrier film to hide with layers of Klear. One day I'll actually finish a model and get round to using a full sheet of 'em, but the few I have done have been good Wiggly isn't included with them either. Is there aftermarket wiggly available at this time?
  8. They're great, but if you're just using this as training for the "big event", I'd just use the kit decals and leave these for that project. They are good, and you get no carrier film left over once the top foil has been removed, so the stencils will look painted on
  9. Some nice putty-work on display there Dan San, as well as your handsome checked pyjamas!
  10. Your task for the day is to build it Frank If it didn't look a bit wibbly-wobbly around the seams I'd possibly be interested in one myself, but the price-tag is high. Sure, it's a niche market, but that's quite an ask per part Oh, and it's cast by CMK, or was last time I heard
  11. I always liked him. RIP
  12. Your pics are still showing! Anyway - get on with it!
  13. Takom

    A top gunner figure would have been a huge bonus for the kit, thinking about it
  14. I noticed that too That's the downside... that and the slightly agricultural interface. I know I don't need to use it, but I found it a bit simplistic when I was trying it out before, so I could help with queries
  15. More likely a cause of it!
  16. ...so we're talking about the plane now, are we?
  17. When you get it fully correct, you can claim the prize of my undying admiration (a worthy prize) I get the potato reference, but you're going to have to explain the connection to the aircraft for those of us that now need to know (which I think was your intent, you attention seeking horror, you!)
  18. Here's a few images from the account I just set up. Can anyone tell me what they are for bonus points? Seems to work ok
  19. Probably just some transitory issues with image serving... they'll be serving images from a bunch of servers, so it might just have been pot luck that you were affected.
  20. Yes... a small picture and a weirdo pointing at a pyane as if it crept up on him
  21. You couldn't until fairly recently. The new "desktop" version is our somewhat delayed new 10 year anniversary makeover
  22. Best wait a while to see if it's a problem their end then. Could be that they're feeling the pressure of everyone jumping from the wreck of the SS Photobucket following her impact with the greed iceberg
  23. Try posting one here John, or linking to one that's not working. That might give us some clues. Also, reboot your router & device, just in case it's your end where the problem is. The rest of the world might still be able to see them, so might not see the problem
  24. version 4

    Posting pictures on the new forum version couldn't be easier, and you don't even need the old Image button that looked like a Polaroid of a tree any more. It is so simple that you'll wonder why you even needed to ask Firstly though, if you're a long-time user of the forum you'll know that we don't allow images to be uploaded to the forum as attachments. It's just not secure, and it would overload our server's storage capability and burn through our data quicker than you can imagine. Once you need more storage and more data allowance, that increases costs. A good enough reason not to do that on its own! Ok - assuming you already have your photos hosted online somewhere, you just copy the DIRECT link from wherever it is (Photobucket, Flickr, you name it), and you paste it into your posting window. Press either enter, or space, and SPANG! The forum software will automatically convert it to a photo. If for some reason you didn't want it as a photo, a little notification bar appears at the bottom of your posting window to give you the opportunity to undo the action. Look smug. You've learned how to post a photo. Told you it was simple, didn't I? If you've got a lot of photos to post that are numbered sequentially or with slight changes to the filename, you can post those easily too. Paste your image as above, but before you press space or return, just edit the filename to the next in the sequence. Rinse & repeat as necessary until you run out of pictures. Pretty simple, eh? If for some reason you have SPACES in your URL (why would you do that????), or it doesn't seem to be working with the automatic system, don't panic. Down at the bottom right of your posting window, there is a button called Insert Other Media. Click that and choose Insert Image from URL and enter your URL in the box that pops up. Save that and you should have a pic when the screen finishes loading it. "What's a URL" you might be wondering? It stands for Universal Resource Locator, and is a short form of "web address". You know - the thingy that begins with http:// and has lots of fun characters after it. You'll find the URL for this page at the top of your browser in a long box that is called your Address Bar