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Mike

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Everything posted by Mike

  1. I've got hold of an old Revell Super Guppy kit, and accidentally started it. You know how it goes. I'm sanding all the seams down in advance of assembly of the main areas, and have come across the blobs of styrene that are the exhausts. I've managed to find a slightly hazy pic of them online, which shows that they're basically cylindrical, with a small fairing under the lower edge, and a separate "nib" under the wing. I've also noticed that on the example I was looking at, there were also some additional "streamlining" fairings either side of the nacelles, closely fitting to the wing surface, as shown in the pic below: This photo of Aeroscopia is courtesy of TripAdvisor I've got got plenty of tube around for the exhausts, but could do with some larger pics of the areas, and confirmation whether those side fairings were a standard fitting across the range. I'm looking at modelling the last flying Guppy in NASA service, after watching a documentary about it the other day on t'telly. Any additional detail pics would also be welcome, as I don't have much in the way of info, other than a few pics that I took years ago of a rather delopilated one at Brunty.
  2. Super Guppy 1:144

    I've been working on the intakes above and below the props, as these are a bit.... iffy. The top intake is defined, but not very well, while the lower intake is just a nubbin with no inlet. The top intakes were built up around the edges with CA and sanding dust, then refined with diamond files, but still need a little work. The lower intakes were sawn off with a razor saw, and I made up a sandwich of four pieces of 1mm x 2.25mm strip, into which I sanded a curved groove across one edge of all four, being careful to keep them the same throughout. After I'd split the CA holding the pieces together, I clued a length of 1mm x 0.5mm strip across the bottom of the curve to give the inner lip shape. A groove was cut into the base of the original intake, and the parts were glued in place, keeping an eye on proper alignment. Then the excess plastic was carefully clipped and sanded away to reveal the proper shape. There's still a bit of clean-up needing doing, but I've got the basics done, which is a plus. I've used black primer throughout, and once finished I'm going to check the panel lines in relation to the NASA aircraft and make any changes before I glue the parts to the wings. I also need to box in those gear bays, as they look a bit pants as they are. If anyone's got any pics of the internals there, I'd be more than grateful! The fuselage was rather hastily glued together without thinking of nose weight (oopsie!), and I've been working on the main seams since to try and make sure they don't make a bit for prominence after I paint. The nose gear bay is just a flat indent in the nose, so I've an idea that involves cutting that out, enlarging it a little and inserting a new box in there along with some substantial nose-weight to make it sit on its wheels. Some pics of the nose bay would also be appreciated if anyone's got any? I'm still working on the twin Fw.190s, so I'll be flitting between the two on & off, so bear with me
  3. I think I'd need a bigger 'ouse too
  4. You're right - it was initially armed with the short-barreled 75mm gun. I'll amend the review - that'll teach me to check my references first
  5. Panzer IV On the Battlefield 2 World War Two Photobook Series Peko Publishing The Panzer IV was developed due to a perceived lack of heavy armour by the Third Reich in the mid 30s, and they began WWII with predominantly light tanks that were often outgunned and relatively lightly armoured compared to their opponents. Only the Blitzkreig tactics gave them the advantage, and following on from this Hitler became obsessed with the mantra "bigger is better". The Pz.IV was a pre-war development that succeeded the Panzer III, initially with a short-barrelled 75mm gun with lower muzzle velocity, and later with high velocity long-barrelled armament as the war progressed, plus added frontal armour and spaced "schurtzen" plates to the hull and turret in an effort to pre-detonate shaped warheads large or small. This new volume from Peko's World War Two Photobook Series, and as the name suggests it is primarily a book of photos, which isn't too difficult to divine. As Volume 2 of the set it covers the more mature variants of the Pz.IV, beginning with the Ausf.G and carrying on through H to Ausf.J with all the variations in fit and finish between the main three factories that were engaged in construction of this, the unsung backbone of German WWII armour. It is hardback bound with 112 pages, finished in an overall white cover, which was quite difficult to scan well. The photos are almost without exception full page, with space left only for the captions, which are in Hungarian and English, each one adding valuable insight to the photo, which may not be immediately apparent without it. For the modeller there are plenty of diorama possibilities, as well as opportunities to see how the crews actually stowed their gear on their vehicles (or otherwise) in real-world circumstances. Seeing how they come apart when blown up is also useful for diorama purposes, but thankfully there are no grisly scenes accompanying the destroyed vehicles. Quite a few of the photos are from private collections with attributions in the top corner as appropriate, with substantial quantity of soldiers standing in front of damaged or abandoned vehicles after the fighting is over, plus a number of groups investigating the wreckage after a cataclysmic explosion of the tank's magazine, or demolition by the escaping crew. While the contemporary photos are in black and white, even some that were originally taken for American magazine Life in colour, and the detail in which they are depicted would be an absolute boon to any modeller, especially those wishing to go down the route of realism and authentic settings. Conclusion Whether you have the models that you intend to use this book for reference, or have an interest in the subject, this book will give you all the reference pictures and some besides, as well as some inspiration for dioramas. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Vickers Valiant B.1

    Yes you should - it's too nice to leave legless
  7. As the other topic has tripped the 40 page rule for chat-based stuff (a bit late I know), here's the new topic for posting up details about the latest releases. You can find the old topic here.
  8. Greetings from Texas.

    aboard Russell
  9. Greetings from Lincolnshire, UK

    to the fold Andrew
  10. Greetings from Lincoln

    aboard from nowhere near Lincoln
  11. Phantom Intakes

    I've popped these back in the WIP section for Ali, and just to let you know he simply can't keep away from making stuff, so he's going to be starting up a new company as a part-time business, so expect to see him back in the Vendors' section in due course.
  12. Airfix 1/48th Sea Fury

    Nice clean job I've also removed the space at the bottom (better late than never)
  13. Super Guppy 1:144

    I've been pondering the panel lines, and some of them are clearly not where they're supposed to be, which is a bit of a bummer, and yes... VERY shiny is the order of the day on the topsides. I'm wondering whether I should go with removing the panel lines and then adding pencil lines later, or maybe just ignore them altogether. A coat of Alclad Chrome would give the most realistic look to the surface, but I'd have to get it just right if I'm going to get away with it I should really move this to WIP, as I've already started mucking about with the plastic. EDIT: Done
  14. Can I just add my "Woo hoo!" to this thread too please? It's been a bit quiet Bandai-wise of late, but now we're getting some characters with faces and a B-Wing, I'm happier
  15. Jonathan Ross the Modeller

    Wotsisname... Pete Waterman is a big railway dude, so much so that I think he has his own line of high quality kits, sort of like Peter Jackson with WNW on a smaller scale
  16. Super Guppy 1:144

    NASA! I saw a documentary the other day, which convinced me I needed those decals Not sure how I'm going to get a shiny finish on the upper fuselage, but I can try, can't I? Nope It's in use today, and the latest upgrades to the airframe included a glass cockpit. Pretty modern to me
  17. New member

    aboard Phil - nice and close to Newark Air Museum, eh?
  18. Super Guppy 1:144

    Got one of them lurking somewhere too. The Boy has a lovely resin desktop model of the Beluga, and a beeee-utiful one of the A380 that was given to him by a dear friend, so the Super Guppy would complete his set. Linky? https://www.facebook.com/Super-Guppy-Restoration-Project-238969378440
  19. Super Guppy 1:144

    I've already picked the size of tube I'll be using, but as it's a bit more complicated than that, the actual exhaust is the easy part
  20. Super Guppy 1:144

    Does, doesn't it? Trying to decide whether to mate the engines to the wings before I start sculpting the correct(er) shape or not. I also need to decide how best to open up the tiny little intake under the props. I've managed to harmonise and correct the size of the intakes on the top of the nacelles with CA and some judicious use of needle files, but this underslung one is too small to open up. I might end up having to saw off the lip, create a new one and glue it in place.
  21. Super Guppy 1:144

    Oh dear... looks like the pooch has been screwed with the Revell nacelles. From what I can see, they're too shallow at the rear, don't have the fairings, and the exhausts don't finish in the correct relationship to the trailing edge. Yikers! There are also a lot of panel lines on the fuselage that need removing, altering or adding. So much for a quick build
  22. Super Guppy 1:144

    Just as an aside, I've actually got around 8 photos of the Super Guppy at Brunty, so if anyone else has some pics they'd like to add, please send them to @Julien and he'll put them into the Walkaround section
  23. Super Guppy 1:144

    Those are brilliant @Stephan, thanks. I think I found out my problem. I was using Google. I've been looking for images using Google for years, but have noticed lately that more and more results are either selling something, behind paywalls or somehow protected and requiring you to pay money or request permission to see at full size. Bing on the other hand when you search on Super Guppy gives a whole host of pics free and for gratis, so I think I have a new image search engine now. Never thought I'd prefer Bing to Google, but if Google just want to make money off me rather than be a search engine, I'll vote with my feet
  24. Super Guppy 1:144

    Found another pic. This is from Brunty
  25. Two-Seat T-Harrier (T.2/T.2A/T.4/T.4N/T.8) 1:48 Kinetic Model The Harrier is an iconic (in the truest sense) example of what was possible when British Aviation was at its prime. It was a revolutionary design back in the 60s, and has seen many improvements and even a complete re-vamp in the shape of the Harrier II, which saw McDonnell Douglas get more heavily involved, giving the US Marines their much beloved AV-8B, and the British the Gr.5/7/9, all of which had new wings, massively upgraded avionics and improved versions of the doughty Pegasus engine, which was always at the heart of this legendary design. The Harrier is a difficult aircraft to fly due to the high pilot workload, and requires the best pilots to do it justice, which means that trainer variants are essential, as simulators can only offer so much realism, even now. The first trainers rolled out in the 1970s, and have been upgraded along similar lines to their operational brethren to provide as close to real-world training conditions as practical. The fuselage was extended at the nose, with a huge blister canopy encompassing both seats, with the instructor sitting substantially higher than their pupil to afford them a good view ahead, and a long, weighted "stinger" tail extention to equalise the centre of gravity with the single seater. Although it disrupts the sleek lines of the single-seat variant, the Trainers have a strange charm of their own, and there have been some interesting schemes, including the Raspberry Ripple and Qinetiq liveries over the years. The Harrier II trainers have the new composite wing, and are designated T.10/12. The Kit For many years modellers of the Harrier have been crying out for a good quality kit in this scale, and also the two-seat variants, with only a partial answer being forthcoming until now. Kinetic have put a lot of effort and research into creating models of the two Sea Harriers already the FRS.1 and FA.2, both of which we have reviewed in the past, and have been well-received for their overall level of accuracy. Now we have this new tooling, which has a substantial cross-over with the original, and sold out so quickly that we have only now received our sample for review from the second batch that have been commissioned. Something tells me this won't be the last re-pop of the moulds. This kit deals with the earlier "tin wing" Harriers before the introduction of composites, so the most recent variant is the T.8, and anything earlier, all from the same box. There are nine sprues in grey styrene, three of which are new, plus one that has been slightly tweaked for this edition. There are two sprues of clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE), a large decal sheet and the instruction manual. The big changes are forward of the engine intake "ears", but the rear boom is also extended for balance purposes, which helps achieve the ungainly look of the finished model, and that of course is exactly how it should look! The cockpit has two ejection seats with separate cushions and headbox details, plus slightly simplified PE crew belts and the pull handle between the pilot's knees. These are fitted into the stepped cockpit tub with rudder pedals, dual control columns, instrument panels that have separate painting guides, coamings, HUD and the big windscreen-within-a-windscreen that shields the pilots from ejection backwash in the event a quick exit is required. Detail in the cockpit is good, and will come up well once painted with a fine brush and some patience. In order to close up the fuselage the main gear bay boxes are built and painted, as is the bell-shaped intake trunking, having the front section on the nose gear bay attached to the underside of the cockpit tub, and the aft section to the fuselage sides. The rear bay is attached to the mechanism that allows the exhaust nozzles to rotate, which must be positioned opposite their exits before you can close up the fuselage. A choice of open or closed auxiliary vents are provided, which slot inside the intake lips, and the closed ones depict the characteristic gravity droop of the upper doors, which is as it should be. The wing is top mounted, with the anhedral moulded into the full width top panel, and the lower panels separate parts that bracket the fuselage sides. Separate flaps and their actuator fairings are provided, and although undocumented in the instruction booklet, these can be replaced by parts E1 to pose them dropped. Clear wingtip lights are supplied, which makes adding them a breeze, as their location would be a pain to fabricate your own. More good things! There is a choice of three tail fins, each with a separate rudder, and the elevators have a separate swash-plate and pivot lug for attachment to the fuselage, and the wing panel can be fitted nose-first, using a small lug at the front to find the correct location and alignment. There are no LERX to worry about on the older tin wings, and just a tiny PE mesh insert covers a vent at the rear of the cockpit spine behind the air conditioning. At this point the airframe is ostensibly complete, so spare a little time here to whoosh it around the room making suitable jet noises and ensuring you don't get caught doing it. The smaller assemblies are then built up, including the bicycle wheels, the canopy parts with some additional PE and plastic parts, plus a set of plastic rear-view mirrors to finish them off. You have a choice of laser or a pointy nose cone, which varied between airframes, as detailed in the accompanying chart, with another chart showing which tail stinger was fitted to which airframe to ensure you get both ends just right. Another choice of undernose inserts is made between T.8s and the rest, and the main gear can be fitted along with their respective gear bay doors, and a choice of small or large air-brake, which has its own chart of which one was fitted to which airframe. It makes a lot of sense to choose your decal option at the outset. Lumps, bumps, aerials and antennae are fitted on almost every spare inch of the airframe, plus an optional shoulder-mounted refuelling probe, PE stays for the side-opening canopies, after which you just need to decide what to hang under the wings and fuselage of this ungainly but beautiful aircraft. You have a choice of gun pods or strakes under the fuselage, which was always fitted with one or the other to keep the airflow from the engines diving under the fuselage too soon, and when the outer pylon is not used, a small cover is fitted instead. Kinetic are usually generous with their weapons, and here you a decent array too, most of which are on two identical sprues, with a few others knocking about on the others. The parts most fitted are as follows: 2 x 190 gallon fuel tank 2 x 100 gallon fuel tank 2 x Aden gun pod There are various other weapons on the sprues that would usually end up in the spares bin, as most training sorties would be flown with either a clean airframe, or with extra tankage as required. The trainer is technically combat capable however, so can carry other munitions should the need arise. Typically, this seems to consist mainly of Sidewinders of rocket pods depending on training requirements. Markings The decal sheet is A4 sized, and printed by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt/gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Design was carried out by CrossDelta, and includes a host of stencils that are covered on a separate page, plus ten options for different airframes and operators. From the box you can build one of the following: Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD990/721, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 2004-2005, RN Fixed Wing Standards Flight to April 2006 – gloss black overall, with black or grey tanks and winged fist on the tail. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm, T.8 ZD605/720, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 – gloss black overall with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD604/722, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 – Gloss black overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD605/718, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton,1985 – Dark sea grey overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW265/W 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1992 – Grey green camo overall. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW266/51 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1975 – Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW272/Z IV(AC) Squadron, RAF Güttersloh, 1980 – Grey green camo over light grey undersides. US Marine Corps TAV-8A VMAT-203, MCAS Cherry Point, Late 1970s - Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Armada Española (Spanish Navy) TAV-8S 8a Esquadrilla (8th Squadron), 1988 – gull grey over white. Royal Thai Navy TAV-8S, 301 Squadron late 1990s – Gull grey over white. The intake roundels are sensibly broken into sections with separate parts for each of the blow-in doors to ensure good settlement into the shapes found there. I would have liked to have seen some decals for the instruments, but with a detailed painting guide for that area it's not a major problem, and even if it is, Eduard are bound to be along any moment now with a PE set that will give you all the detail you need. Conclusion We now have a rather nice Trainer Harrier in 1:48, and I for one couldn't be happier. Two of them is better of course, but a modern, detailed model was much needed. How long will tranche two of the mouldings last? Not long, at a guess, so if you're planning on getting one, I wouldn't hang around. I'm also getting the prayer mat out to wish for the composite wing 2-seaters. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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