Rob-Taurus aftermarket 1/72 F/A-18D canopy

[Charles H]

I have just received Rob-Taurus part 72063 (F/A-18D Hornet canopy, for 1/72 Academy kit). I purchased it online from HobbyLink Japan (hlj.com), because the original canopy in my Academy kit was cracked.

It's a very nice one-piece canopy; no visible flaws whatsoever - but I have a question, please. It seems to be totally bonded to the protective rigid plastic backing sheet. Do I have to carefully cut the entire perimeter with a hobby blade to separate it, or is it actually to be simply "unpeeled" in some way? Please can you help - I do NOT want to risk damaging it! There does not SEEM to be a "perforation" edge for assistance, so I want to be careful and patient, and ask for advice, please. I have also emailed the manufacturer at [email protected] - but am asking here as well!

 

 

Thank you!

Edited March 19 by Charles H

[stevehnz]

Hi Charles, yes, that is what you have to do unfortunately, though it is not as bad as it sounds. I start by using a sewing needle , the same as what I use for rescribing fine lines & marking centre marks to drill small holes, which I have mounted in a X-acto type handle but one with two slots in it at right angles. I use this to carefully go around the lower demarcation between the smooth canopy & the rough mounting . There is usually a groove of some sort or a ledge perhaps. make several scribes getting deeper each time rather than trying to do it all at once. then, when you've got a groove, go for a sharp pointed craft blade & continue the process, sometimes dragging the blade backwards is preferable to trying to cut it through, you want to be looking to eventually break though in one place & then it will go quicker. It really takes longer to describe it than do it just about but taking it quietly will give the best result. Once it is free of the backing, clean up the edges with a fine sanding stick & adjust the fit the same way. I like to mount them using a PVA style canopy glue.

 All the best with it.

Steve.

[Charles H]

stevehnz - (I forgot you folks who are *ahead* on the clock, even from our Aust Central) - THANK YOU for this reply. I think your skill level is superior to mine, but I do understand... mostly(!) what you say. I will be VERY patient, and very sober (no alcohol, unlike today). I just dread a shock-crack into the canopy, if I am ham-fisted.

 

This new "aftermarket" canopy looks *perfect*! It does not even have the [manufacturing] awful dorsal artefact "seam" the /cracked/ original had. It is one-piece (and I am doing a closed canopy) so it's just fine, as long as it fits. I simply... don't want to stuff this up! I am perfectly happy to spend TIME on something. I am fortunate to be happily retired, and to (within reason) HAVE free time. My previous lab work required a lot of desktop micro dissection of live material, so I'm not scared of "fiddly" jobs. I just DON'T want to spoil what is an aftermarket purchase, to replace a problem in an original boxed kit.

 

I used the old "rubbish" cracked canopy, to simply practice masking it, inside and out, prior to receiving this replacement. This was useful - but I just don't understand why the original canopy was so brittle. I didn't notice it was cracked, until I unpacked it, which should may be a lesson. I deliberately left the clear parts until last; a year after purchasing the kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Charles H]

3 hours ago, stevehnz said:

I start by using a sewing needle , the same as what I use for rescribing fine lines & marking centre marks to drill small holes, which I have mounted in a X-acto type handle but one with two slots in it at right angles. I use this to carefully go around the lower demarcation between the smooth canopy & the rough mounting .

 

I don't understand, sorry. A sewing needle (please, what size?/ I don't know what you mean?) with all these abilities, and "which I have mounted in a X-acto type handle but one with two slots in it at right angles" - sorry, I have to ask you to explain, please? You lost me at "X-acto" and "two slots at right angles" - this is all worryingly precise for me; please; I need education!

 

 

[Zephyr91]

I liked @stevehnz's description.  Patience is key.  If I could add a couple of thoughts

 

1.  You could mask the bits you wish to keep pristine and avoid any scratches due to needle or knife slipping.  They shouldn't slip if you are careful and don't force things, but always good to have some insurance.  And

2. Is there enough spare plastic on the surround of the canopy on which you could practice a little?  You might be able to just get a feel for the material and how it yields?

 

Good luck with it.

 

Rob

 

PS.  Missed bit about needls etc.  here's apic of what I use

 

Edited December 13, 2023 by Zephyr91
extra info

[stevehnz]

26 minutes ago, Charles H said:

I don't understand, sorry. A sewing needle (please, what size?/ I don't know what you mean?) with all these abilities, and "which I have mounted in a X-acto type handle but one with two slots in it at right angles" - sorry, I have to ask you to explain, please? You lost me at "X-acto" and "two slots at right angles" - this is all worryingly precise for me; please; I need education!

No problem I was maybe taking too much for granted. Sewing needle, as in what someone would use with thread to mend a tear in clothes, sew on a button, old fashioned kind of stuff. Even a dress makers pin with the head cut off, probably 1/2mm thick or a bit less. have a look on this page to give you an idea of what I'm on about. maybe a wife, female friend or mother might be able to help out. The one I use has the eye cut off so it doesn't wobble in the craft knife handle, which brings me to those. X-acto, a brand known for its range of craft knives & suchlike. Google craft knives to get an idea. This particular one shows what I mean by having two slots in the piece that tightens to hold the blade. Bunnings or similar should have something like these but if the needle thing is too difficult, just use the back of a blade like the one in the last link, in which case @Zephyr91 Robs idea of protecting the bit you want to keep is a very good idea.  Another option is to cut the outer piece away with a small pair of sharp scissors, & then use a fine sanding stick to gradually sand up to the good stuff. It helps doing this to run a fine marker pen around the line you would cut or sand to. Filling the canopy with blutac to give it some guts & make it easier to handle can help too. A couple of Youtube clips with different approaches the might be useful too. here & here. Good luck.

Steve.

[Rob G]

1. You won't crack the vacform canopy, as it's made from PVC, a material not noted for being fragile. You CAN bend and crease it, but if you work with a modicum of care you'll be fine.

 

2. Clear polystyrene IS fragile, it's a property of the material. Old model kits had thick canopies, due to moulding limitations, and that thickness made them more shatterproof than they would otherwise have been, but modern kits have thin canopies, which makes things a bit more delicate. The 'awful dorsal seam line' is an artefact of the manufacturing process, as the moulds have to split there to allow the canopy to be extracted - blame McDonnell-Douglas for that, as they fitted the blown canopy to the 1:1 scale version! The vacform version uses a different moulding technique which eliminates the seam, but adds the complication of cutting the thing out...

[G.E.SAUNDERS]

                          hi   Charles ,

 

                                                 you shoulda bought (2) Canopies that is the thing to do

                                                

                                                                                         cheery mumbas !

 

                                                                                                        Geoff

[Pritch]

You might get some tips here: https://falconmodels.co.nz/howto.html

[MariosKak]

Hello! I was just browsing the site for the exact same reason... I also have the exact same problem with the same kit and Academy hasn't even bothered to reply to me for almost a month now.. My crack is running along more than half the length of the canopy and the plastic is so bad that trying to remove the seem leaves unrepairable scratches. So I have to ask for your help as to are you satisfied with the after market canopy and secondly could you be so kind as to provide me with link so I can purchase it myself too?

[TheKinksFan]

9 hours ago, Rob G said:

You won't crack the vacform canopy, as it's made from PVC, a material not noted for being fragile. You CAN bend and crease it, but if you work with a modicum of care you'll be fine.

I have very limited experience with vacuform canopies, I hve used a couple from Rob Taurus. First I was really concerned that I would crack the parts when cutting them, but like you say the plastic is not fragile, I was relieved that the material is bendy. But I have to say that cutting the sections of a 1/72 SBD Dauntless canopy is a slow process. 

 

Rob Taurus canopies are really high quality, very clear, and also reasonably priced. I just wished they made a canopy for Airfix's Gloster Gladiator. 

[TheKinksFan]

9 minutes ago, MariosKak said:

provide me with link so I can purchase it myself too

MojeHobby.pl (also know as super-hobby.com) has it in stock

https://www.mojehobby.pl/products/F-A-18-D-Hornet.html

I have always ordered big packages from them, but maybe they have a shipping option for a small package or letter. 

[MariosKak]

1 hour ago, TheKinksFan said:

MojeHobby.pl (also know as super-hobby.com) has it in stock

https://www.mojehobby.pl/products/F-A-18-D-Hornet.html

I have always ordered big packages from them, but maybe they have a shipping option for a small package or letter. 

 

Do you think it would match for an F variant?

[stevehnz]

2 hours ago, MariosKak said:

 

Do you think it would match for an F variant?

Try asking the question in this forum, head it clearly so people will know what you mean, something like "will a F/A-18D canopy fit a F/A-18F?" & then explain why you want to do this, someone might have a different idea that could work.

Steve.

[Rob G]

2 hours ago, MariosKak said:

 

Do you think it would match for an F variant?

 

As far as I know, the real canopies are the same, BUT (and most importantly)... the kits may not be. Your best bet is to get the replacement canopy that is matched to the kit you will be building.

[Charles H]

Thank you everyone for your extremely kind and helpful replies. I'll reply properly soon!

 

Cheers!

Charles

[Charles H]

11 hours ago, MariosKak said:

Hello! I was just browsing the site for the exact same reason... I also have the exact same problem with the same kit and Academy hasn't even bothered to reply to me for almost a month now.. My crack is running along more than half the length of the canopy and the plastic is so bad that trying to remove the seem leaves unrepairable scratches. So I have to ask for your help as to are you satisfied with the after market canopy and secondly could you be so kind as to provide me with link so I can purchase it myself too?

Hi MariosKak - the after market canopy looks excellent; my only problem was how to remove it from the "background" plastic that I now understand it literally "grows" from. I'm sorry you had no reply from Academy. The link I purchased my canopy from is:

 

https://www.hlj.com/1-72-scale-f-a-18d-hornet-canopy-for-academy-rob72063

 

It was about equivalent to US$5, but postage to Australia was an additional approx US$8. I hope this helps.

 

[Charles H]

12 hours ago, Pritch said:

You might get some tips here: https://falconmodels.co.nz/howto.html

Thank you! I've devoted tonight to thoroughly reading all the replies I've received, and watching links I've been pointed to. Your help is very much appreciated.

[Charles H]

20 hours ago, G.E.SAUNDERS said:

                          hi   Charles ,

 

                                                 you shoulda bought (2) Canopies that is the thing to do

                                                

                                                                                         cheery mumbas !

 

                                                                                                        Geoff

Yes, since postage was twice the price of the canopy, from Japan to Oz, you are dead right! I *will* remember your sage advice next time (small item, x2 by same postage)!

 

Thank you!

[Charles H]

On 12/13/2023 at 5:29 PM, stevehnz said:

Hi Charles, yes, that is what you have to do unfortunately, though it is not as bad as it sounds. I start by using a sewing needle , the same as what I use for rescribing fine lines & marking centre marks to drill small holes, which I have mounted in a X-acto type handle but one with two slots in it at right angles. I use this to carefully go around the lower demarcation between the smooth canopy & the rough mounting . There is usually a groove of some sort or a ledge perhaps. make several scribes getting deeper each time rather than trying to do it all at once. then, when you've got a groove, go for a sharp pointed craft blade & continue the process, sometimes dragging the blade backwards is preferable to trying to cut it through, you want to be looking to eventually break though in one place & then it will go quicker. It really takes longer to describe it than do it just about but taking it quietly will give the best result. Once it is free of the backing, clean up the edges with a fine sanding stick & adjust the fit the same way. I like to mount them using a PVA style canopy glue.

 All the best with it.

Steve.

Hi Steve

 

Thank you for your reply. After viewing your video, I had completely over-thought everything, sorry. I have an Excel hobby knife, exactly the same virtually, with the two slots at right angles, and I can well see the value of your suggestion of a needle-point installed, instead of a blade. My wife has lots of needles - heck, I used to do some surgical sewing myself, when I worked in a medical research lab, so I'm no stranger to it, at least to some extent! I shall practice in the next couple of days

 

But, PLEASE, what do you mean in "sometimes dragging the blade backwards is preferable to trying to cut it through" - I'm not sure what "backwards" means, sorry! Away or towards you?

[sandros]

My recent experience in dealing with vacumformed canopies, it to separate them from their grid like base using a nice pair of scissors like the Tamiya scissors for decals. It is very precise and provides total control in every step. For gluing them except for pva glue you can also use the vms glue for canopies.

[Charles H]

I would have used my Tamiya Multipurpose Clear Glue tube, to glue this vacuum-formed canopy to the model... but is this wrong? With this different type of "vacuum" - plastic, can I really just use PVA glue? The water-based woodwork glue, which is white and dries clear?

[tempestfan]

You can use PVA glue, it's the film that will hold the part, it's not bonding like styrene to styrene with styrene glue, which bonds the parts by dissolving a small amount of plastic on either part.

 

For the one vac canopy I used so far (Aeroclub Tempest or Sea Fury IIRC, for my Airfix 1/48 Seafire 47 - a loooong time ago), I used small and very sharp nail scissors. Excellent control. As an alternative to the sewing needle @stevehnz recommended, you may try an old fashioned compass (dividers) point, which is sharp and will not flex. You will find the "cross-slotted holder" in many small motor tools to accommodate drills of various sizes.

[stevehnz]

58 minutes ago, Charles H said:

But, PLEASE, what do you mean in "sometimes dragging the blade backwards is preferable to trying to cut it through" - I'm not sure what "backwards" means, sorry! Away or towards you?

With the cutting edge away from you. Basically you are just using the point. Using the cutting edge is asking for trouble in my experience, it tends to please itself where to go,  the angle at the back of the cutting edge makes an effective scriber which is what you're doing, deepening the groove started with the needle till the canopy comes away from the base. If you go the scissors route, they need to be good quality pointed nail scissors or seamstress scissors & comfortable to use & control. Using the fine marker I mentioned before makes it easier to see where you're going. Re glues, yes basically just PVA but the ones sold as canopy glues  have a bit more grab & dry quicker too. Easy clean up with a damp cotton bud plus another application helps to fill any little gaps. I use Zap canopy glue, there are others & I think the Krystal Klear type products work too, they are generally PVA glues as well.

Steve.

[Charles H]

Sorry, stevehnz - I am embarrassed to say I still don't understand. Do you mean with the cutting edge turned |upward|, away from the model? I've just got... no idea, sorry

Edited December 14, 2023 by Charles H
errors