Tamiya Beaufighter 1F, R2101, 604 Squadron, 1940-41

[Stephen Allen]

Well here we go again! I enjoyed building the Tamiya 1/48 Beaufighter as one of the early production machines so much, that I thought it would be nice to build yet another, but as an early Nightfighter in the Special Night RDM2A scheme. I have selected R2101, coded NG-R. This was famously a machine most often flown by the intrepid team of John Cunningham and his Radio Observer, C.F, ‘Jimmy’ Rawnsley. 

 

 

 

Like my previous build, R2069, its a much modelled machine so my apologies to those thirsting after novelty.
 

R2101 was one of the first batch of production Beaufighters produced by Bristol at Filton, and was amongst the first fitted with AI radar. As a very early Beau, the machine is fitted with the early style of canopy, no wing guns, square style short air intakes, and drum fed 20mm cannons. There are a range of other differences, which I hope to highlight as the build progresses.

 

Revell offer this plane as one of its marking options in its very nice 1/48 kit, though the kit contents doesn’t allow you to build an accurate R2101. The canopy, air intakes and exhausts in the Revell kit are all more typical of slightly later machines, so modification is required anyway (unless you change the serial and model the second NG-R, which replaced R2101 when it was lost in May 1941) Given this, and that the key and hardest element needing changing is the canopy, I have settled on using the Tamiya kit as a base. This is because you can get an excellent Falcon vacform canopy that depicts the early style and is designed, with suitable modifications, to fit the Tamiya kit. the Tamiya kit is also a simple build with good fit which makes it easier to focus on the modifications to make an early Beau.  I have a list from the research I did for the previous build, and have added to it by further staring at photographs.

 

I managed to cut and trim the Falcon vacform canopy without ruining it, so the build can begin!

 

 

 

[Stephen Allen]

One thing I learnt from the previous build is that some of the necessary modifications would have been a lot easier to make before the airframe is put together rather than after. One example of this is the fitment of the vacform canopy, which needs a section carved out of the nose of the fuselage to fit properly. It’s easier to do this before joining the halves together, so I taped the canopy in place and roughly pencilled in the new outline

 

 

 

Then cutting and carving each side, leaving a ledge underneath to support the front of the canopy. This next photo shows one side completed

 

 

And both sides completed below. I carved the excess away with scalpel blades of various shapes, checking with the canopy until there was enough clearance for it to sit squarely against the recessed ledge created. Bit blurry, but it fits where it needs to, and the clean-up with putty and surfacer will be a lot less than the first time around, when I cut too much off.  The left and right sides of the fuselage will be packed out with thin plastic strip, and a corresponding strip glued around the rear of the canopy location to provide more gluing surface. The trick with vacform canopies is to try and avoid any unsupported butt joints, end up with a rigid gluing line that supports the canopy all the way round, and avoid any large changes in level between the canopy and the fuselage sides to give it that built-in look. That way the chances of it flexing and cracking the glue line while it is masked and unmasked are minimised.

 

[Stephen Allen]

Lessons learned from the last build are that the cockpit is surprisingly visible underneath that lovely clear canopy, and that you can see stuff-all in the observer’s position unless you open up the bubble. I plan to do a wee bit more in cockpit detailing this time around, and I will somehow shoehorn the very nice Eduard LOOK Beaufighter 1F instrument panel into the front. It’s made for the Revell kit and is going to be a challenge to fit in the Tamiya pit. I have acquired a very ancient but nice KMC resin detail set for the Beau which will at least contribute some parts to the cockpit. The KMC bit I used first was the rudder, to replace the Tamiya one, which lacks some of the rib and other detail. I modified the KMC part to show the twin tail lights carried by early Beaufighters

 

 

Despite the probable lack of visibility I have also acquired the very nice Model Monkey 3D printed AI MkIV boxes for the rear seat. At least the display box should be visible, as it sits just under and behind the bubble. After reading ‘Nightfighter’ by Rawnsley and Wright I just couldn’t build a nightfighter without including  the ‘The Thing’!

 

 

I am using the kit supplied AI aerials, but the ‘Arrowhead’ needed some careful work with a razor blade and sanding film to open up the rear double element. So it goes from this

 

 

To this

 

I still have some bits and pieces to arrive. I ordered the Aerocraft 3D printed Bristol Hercules and early cowlings, and they should hopefully arrive shortly. The kit engines are pretty ordinary, and the Aerocraft ones look spectacular, inclusive of exhaust manifolds.  I also have the Alley Cat early Beau conversion on the way, which contains prop spinners, early five spoke pattern wheels and the early no dihedral tail. It will be interesting to compare this with the KMC flat tail pieces, and those from Red Roo that I used on the last build. An issue shared by both the Red Roo and KMC tails is that the cross section on the tails doesn’t match well to the Tamiya tail root sections. Both are noticeably thinner, probably due to resin shrinkage. Both align well with the top of the root section, so any grinding away can be done underneath where it is less noticeable.  I will see how the Alley Cat versions match up, then use the set that requires the least grinding away of the fuselage sides. Apart from the Sutton harnesses in the LOOK set I will generally not be bothering with extensive photo etch.

More Anon!

[Stephen Allen]

After a short break and the excitement of the arrival of the Kotare Spit, it’s back to detailing the Beau. As an early build R2101 needs the kit-supplied ammunition belt feeds removed, and replaced by a rough semblance of the drums both on the guns, and on the storage racks. Step one is to strengthen the floor under the belt feeds, then remove them.

 

 

 

 

Step two is to add the drums, and the two storage racks carried on each side. I am not trying for absolute accuracy or detail here, just enough to provide the necessary indications when the fuselage is closed up

 

 

Because, even with a flash, you can hardly see them, and they will be even less visible when painted!

 

[Stephen Allen]

I have also started working on the cockpit. The KMC detail set is typical of its era, and the resin moulding is not perfect. Rather than fiddling about trying to make the whole set fit, I will use some elements to improve the kit supplied parts. I have started by trimming away the superfluous lower side walls that come with the Tamiya cockpit tub. I have also trimmed away elements of the KMC resin parts and have added them to the cockpit sills.

 

 

I am also not going to fit the Eduard LOOK instrument panel. Too much would have to be trimmed away to get it to fit in the available space. I have a Yahu IP on the way, which is designed to fit the Tamiya kit. It’s a Mark VI panel, but the difference hopefully won’t be too apparent. On close inspection the LOOK panel is a bit over-bright for my taste. I’ll keep it until I get a Revell Beau.

 

[Stephen Allen]

Been a bit distracted watching KiwiBob’s build of the Kotare Spitfire 1A. What a kit! That said, I’ve managed to make some more progress busying up the cockpit area. More small boxes for the cockpit sills, the fuel supply wheels and some basic supporting structure.  I’ve also constructed the shelves for the TR1133 R/T and its associated remote contactor and power source. Its all a bit representational, but as it sits back against the rear spar only the shapes will be discernible. For the same reason I am not plating over the wing cut-outs as you would need a very strong torch and a magnifying glass to see them.

 

 

[Stephen Allen]

The Alley Cat 1F conversion has also arrived. It contains some essentials, such as the early style spinners, short straight exhausts, early pattern wheels, a beam approach aerial and yet another set of flat tails! I am not sure whether R2101 actually had an external beam approach aerial as its not apparent in the photo of this machine. It’s possible the photo was taken before it was fitted. I also prefer the CMK wheels I used on the R2069 build, as they were considerably crisper than these. 

 

 

which leads to a conundrum - which set of tailplanes to use? The KMC set has separate elevators, and I do like posing them slightly drooped. On the other hand the Alley Cat set appears to be a much better and more accurate fit against the tailplane mounts on the fuselage, so less work in carving and scraping. You can also see from the photograph below that the sets are more than a little different in size, the Alley Cat set being considerably longer. Which one, I wonder, is more accurate? I will have to check what references I have.

 

[Stephen Allen]

Okay. The KMC flat tail measures out pretty well when compared against the plans I have - both the Beaufighter book by Franks and the old Aircraft Archive Volume 1. Whether the plans are totally accurate I don’t know. The KMC set also seems to have a better shape for the elevators. The Alley Cat parts just seem to match the Tamiya dihedral tail in proportions, but without the dihedral - no doubt this is old news to many Britmodellers. The KMC parts are still too thin to match up well with the Tamiya fuselage, so I have decided to use them as templates, and reshape the Alley Cat tail pieces to match. This was just a case of sanding to a pencil outline on the Proxxon sander, then rounding off the resultant flat edges.

 

 

Next step is to fill the outer section of the elevator line so that I can scribe a new outline. I also need to work a bit more on the profile where the elevator meets the vertical tail.

 

 

[Stephen Allen]

I used the KMC parts as a guide to scribe in the elevator outlines on the modified Alley Cat pieces

 

 

This then forms a good cutting guide to removing the elevators so I can replace them with the KMC parts. A razor saw, grinding bit on a motor tool and some final filing and sanding made for a good match.

 

 

 

 

A rat tail file creates a channel so that the elevators will be a close fit.

 

 

And finally the outer hinge point for the rudder is depicted with some shaped plastic strip. All ready for assembly when the time comes.

 

 

[Stephen Allen]

Back to detailing the interior. Here you can see the Model Monkey AI Mk IV black boxes in roughly the position they will sit in when assembled. The little white box at the end is IFF equipment not supplied in the 3D parts. I have added a support shelf on the airframe for the actual AI indicator unit, which sits just behind the Observer’s bubble, with the AI operator sitting facing the rear. The little white addition to the indicator unit front is a visor or hood for the operator, made of rubber or leather. All the equipment is within easy repair and adjustment distance for the operator. Repair and adjustment in the air usually consisted of a swift kick to the offending unit😀

 

[Stephen Allen]

Only one photo today. The interior bits and pieces are now more or less completed to the point where painting can begin. I was stuck for a little while because, while I could find the location of the pilot’s ‘sanitary’ bag, I couldn’t find the location for the observer’s.  Happily, I found it on another diagram. What a relief!  

 

Most of what you see will simply end up as vague dark blurs in spaces that can only be seen from particular angles, so I think I have done enough for now. Once the fuselage is buttoned up I will need to work out how to mount the reflector gunsight to the canopy - it hangs off a small bracket to one side of the central armour glass pane - and the two cockpit lights that similarly hang off the frames of the side windows. I am thinking that some internal framing might be the answer rather than sticking them directly to the canopy interior. Time to tidy the workspace up a bit so some painting can happen.

 

[moondrome]

Wow! That's an incredible amount of details an adds.some of them will probably not be visible but you will know they are there !

[Boman]

If you plan to build this as an aircraft on the ground, you could consider opening parts of the fuselage? That way you would see the detailed interior you're spending so much time and effort on mastering=? 

[Stephen Allen]

Thanks Boman

 

I am planning on a zipped up build this time around. My focus is on the external appearance of an early Beaufighter in black nightfighting garb and hence the emphasis on providing a representative rather than exhaustive interior.  I really have only modelled the bits you can reasonably see from the outside viewing angles. You can’t, in any case, see much more if you open up the crew access doors in the belly, and I personally think opening the upper access via the observer’s dome and the pilot’s top flap spoils the lines.

Maybe next time, if CMK ever get round to releasing their IIF conversion for the Revell kit in 1/48.

 

cheers

 

Steve

[Stephen Allen]

And just before I put paint to model, here’s another addition to my ‘early Beaufighter external differences’ list. That excellent publication Wingleader Photo Archive No.10, has a couple of rare shots of early Beaufighters which show the cannon cartridge ejection ports. I didn’t know that the drum fed cannon birds had a different ejection port pattern to later belt-feed aircraft. If you have this book look on page 33 for the pic of T4638, and page 22 for T3316. If you haven’t, then the photo below shows the amended pattern - the forward ports are both offset to port, the rear ports both to starboard. I have taped over the original ports which need to be filled. Cutting the new ports will be difficult as the plastic in each location is both curved and thick. The rear ports are, in any case, a little too far back, but its a minor issue if you are building a machine with the belt feed guns.

 

[Max Headroom]

It is a lovely kit to put together and I’ve recently resurrected my stalled build now that I have a set of the Aerocraft engine nacelles and engines. Never worked with 3D printed parts so I’ll be interested in how you tackle them.

 

Trevor

[Stephen Allen]

My experience of this type of 3D parts is that they present no more difficulties than an equivalent resin piece. Cutting them away from the supporting lattice work usually requires some careful work with a pair of fine sidecutters, then its just the same as any other part.

 

By coincidence the Aerocraft parts arrived today, and they are superbly printed. The Hercules engines and exhaust manifolds are crazy good! Unfortunately I have received a mixed pair, one early smooth cowling and one later dimpled one, so there will be a little delay while I sort out a replacement with Alistair.

[Max Headroom]

The thing I’m afraid of is not knowing the difference between the lattice work and the plumbing 

 

Trevor

[Stephen Allen]

I think you’ll be fine. i will post some photos as I cut the supports away from the engines.

 

cheers

 

Steve

[Stephen Allen]

So a short diversion into the trimming of 3D resin components. I have been using 3D printed stuff for some years now, especially on the larger scale warships I build. They can look sensational, but require some care in preparation, especially with the latest generation which are printed with a spider’s web of support lattices to keep the parts in shape before they are cured with UV light. Good designers make sure that the attachment points are placed to avoid damage to the finished surfaces and also try to avoid attaching them where there will be danger of fracturing the component when you cut or saw the supports away. The Aerocraft Hercules engines and cowlings for the Beaufighter are very well designed, and pretty straightforward to detach and clean up, once you have worked out what is a support, and what is a part of the finished piece. Here are the parts as supplied. You get a complete engine with exhaust and intake pipes and manifolds, the cowling, and the engine cooling gills modelled open. 

 

 

The engine is the most complex part, and is the piece requiring the most care to detach from the supports. The exhaust and intake pipes for the forward row of cylinders actually forms the supporting lattice for these parts of the engine - a very clever piece of design. Because of this all the needed support removal occurs behind the second row of cylinders. Care is needed as the intake manifolds extend behind this second row and should not be snipped off. If you look carefully you can see the elbow shaped pipes behind the first row of supports

 

The one big drawback with most kinds of 3D resin is its brittleness. You have to use a technique that removes the supports without placing undue pressure on the part, especially small diameter bits like the exhaust and intake pipes. In general, you cut from the perimeter of the part inwards, avoiding any move that will deflect the section being worked on. For this I am using a pair of very sharp and fine Tamiya side cutters.

 

 

I work my way around the perimeter of the part, first cutting and removing the supports attached to the front row of cylinders. Snip at the top at the narrow point where the support attaches to the cylinder, then cut it away at the base as well, to provide clearance for the next cut. Only use the tip of the cutters - if you push them in too far you run the risk of cutting something you don’t want to.  Next do the lower cylinders, again just using the tip of the cutters, which exposes the elbow shaped pipes you DON’T want to cut off!

 

As you move around and need to cut further into the centre of the part, you may need to use a longer pair of side cutters and eventually a razor saw, when you get to the supports attached to the engine block.

 

 

You can clean up the engine block piece but don’t worry too much about any small nibs, as they are all on the reverse side of the part and hidden from view when the cowling is on.

[Stephen Allen]

As I mentioned you don’t need to worry too much about cleaning up the base of the engine, it actually attaches to the cowl via the front circular exhaust manifold, so you just need to ensure that it is clear of the base of the cooling gill ring. I used sidecutters and a razor blade to remove the biggest bits. On to the cowling, which was printed entirely using close spaced supports around its base. These are too closely packed to allow use of a side cutter - the danger is that you might inadvertently cause a fracture where you don’t want it and damage the part itself. For this case, a very fine toothed razor saw is used to gently cut the part away from the base.

 

 

Cut close to, but not quite on the part itself. Don’t try and cut all the way through first time. Rotate the part and keep gently cutting away until it separates

 

 

Voila!

 

 

Clean the part up with a razor blade or similar.

 

 

 

Followed by a rub on a flat piece of fine sandpaper to finish off.

 

[Stephen Allen]

The cowl cooling gills were the only parts where the supports extended in a few places onto the finished surfaces of the part. Start by snipping these off, then gradually cut away the rest. The small nibs on the gills are easily cleaned up with a blade and a bit of sanding.

 

 

 

The cooling gills needed a little sanding and filing at the mating face with the cowl. A test fit showed that the fit was so tight that forcing it might conceivably have caused one or the other part to fracture. A few minutes work with some 400 grade wet and dry and a fine file gave a comfortable slip fit. You will want to keep paint away from this joint. 
 

the engine and collector ring were an easy but solid fit to the cowl, and didn’t require any sanding. There is a small tab on the ring that fits into a recess in the cowl, ensuring that the engine is correctly seated in the right position in the cowling. The exhaust detail and depth of the complete engine make this a vast improvement on the kit supplied part. I will be doing some further work to the cowl to make it more accurate for a very early Beau, but that’s unique to this build so it can wait for later. Hope this helps for anybody using the Aerocraft parts for their build.😀

 

[Max Headroom]

🔼 That needs to be pinned somewhere under “useful things to know”.

 

Thanks👍

 

Trevor

[franky boy]

Just catching up with the build Stephen.

 

Fantastic work all round! And a great advert for the Aerocraft 3D products. 
 

James

[Retired Bob]

1 hour ago, franky boy said:

Just catching up with the build Stephen.

As am I.  Superb modelling going on here, for removing the 3D printed parts I found that P/E scissors were great for the task, the blades are longer and thinner than side cutters.