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Started repainting the underside with Lt gull grey, and used PVA to close up any crevices and gaps around to canopies; it makes such a difference doing this, while it dries clear it is paintable and the excess is removed with a damp cloth or tissue, its stretchy too so it can close up slightly larger gaps, around canopies it makes things look nice and solid. Once the grey undersides are a nice solid grey I'll fit the beaching gear and do any touching in. Its not that far away from being completed now.🙂

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IMG-1096.jpg Its because its a clear part that the light still shines through it; looks fine from a short distance.
 

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5 minutes ago, Courageous said:

That top colour is looking nice and smooth. Don't know how you're able to paint that canopy freehand.

 

Stuart

Thanks Stuart,

I have developed a way to do it and I stick to it! Best way is to thin the paint a bit as thinned paint always flows far better! I use a very thin brush and just go over the lines; yes I get it on the clear glass areas but another benefit of thinning the paint is that it can be removed far easier when doing the cleaning back of the lines! I just let excess paint dry; it will be far easier removed with the cuticle stick when its dry (if you try to clean paint off clear parts when wet you risk smearing it over the whole part and marking the part).

For this I wear my Opti-Visor and use a wooden cuticle pusher, (ladies use them for their nails) and each time I go to use one I rub the pointed end on a sharpening stone to clean it. I carefully go along all the lines on the glass (window pane) side, pane by pane, going around from one side to the next and then starting the ones on top. It doesnt matter if I accidentally remove the paint from the line a little because I will paint the line back in at the next coat.

 

I apply a coat of paint, let it dry and then carefully clean the lines on each clear part before it gets its next coat of paint, I just repeat that each time until the colour is full and solid. The wood of the cuticle pusher is ideal because it doesnt scratch the windows but does very nicely remove the paint you want taken off it.

 

Yeah, it takes a fair bit of time; you have to have good lighting and learn how to support the part in your fingers so it doesnt get cracked or break, but I've been doing this for a while now and the clear parts are part of the overall look of a model. I like them to look nice and sharp! Once I'm finished a clear part I carefully rub away my fingerprints (I dont want to be found out!:evil_laugh:).

 

It works for me and I dont mind spending time doing it because I like nice sharp looking windows and I have the time to do it; I never hurry my models.

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Gave the underside another coat this morning and decided that it looks better with the border between upper and underside colours lifted a bit higher on the engine cowling.

 

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I reckon one more coat will fill this.

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I've started fitting the beaching gear today; gotta allow the frames to stick before I can pop the wheels on though. 

All the painting is now finished; touched in the engine exhausts, added the navigation lights using paint, touched in all around the clear parts with paint, and tipped the pitot and aerial. Once the wheels are on it will be coated with Klear and then I can get onto the decals. I have also added a few features with a micro-nibbed pen to highlight things like the rear end of the air intakes and a few other bits, I did many others in pencil.:idea:

 

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I think I may have spoiled this one a bit:think:; because the undersides were painted in white first and then grey, its had 7 coats of paint underneath so a few of the features have been painted out a bit, I'm not delighted with that. However, this model very nearly didnt get built at all so its still a bit of an achievement and I'll decide how I feel once the decals are on. It WILL be going into the cabinet, no matter what, I'm pleased I was able to get this built at all! Its not being binned after all that time and effort spent on it. I'm not too despondent really.🙂 I'm happy I managed to get it done and not left in the box.

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3 hours ago, Dave Slowbuild said:

The underside is underneath - out of sight, out of mind!
I think it’s looking splendid, looking forward to those decals too.  Fascinating aircraft and your build is going really well!
 

Dave

Thank you, and you’re right, unless I’m lying down under it, I won’t see it!😉
 

Thanks guys for your encouragement! 
The decals are on now and I’m about to gloss over them with a little Klear! Couple of hours before it’s dry and I’ll mattcote it.👍😉

Ill start a post for it once it’s all dry and ready for its photoshoot!

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On 30/07/2022 at 09:12, bigbadbadge said:

Sorry ti miss the start Mark, this is one of the kits I would like to get for the FAA option.

Great work so far and the interior looks good.  Can't believe you've closed the fuselage already too.

Looking forward to the wings going on.

Chris

There is a land based Seamew kit, its Sword kit SW 72049, doesnt have the floaty bits, it has a fixed undercarriage and comes with FAA decals. 

 

I'm unsure if its in production now though, I've seen it in Scalemates from 2016 so it might be a bit of a search and a fair bit of waiting time;

There is one on eBay right now with 5 hours left!

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1 hour ago, Markh-75 said:

There is a land based Seamew kit, its Sword kit SW 72049, doesnt have the floaty bits, it has a fixed undercarriage and comes with FAA decals. 

 

I'm unsure if its in production now though, I've seen it in Scalemates from 2016 so it might be a bit of a search and a fair bit of waiting time;

There is one on eBay right now with 5 hours left!

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Hi Mark thanks fella for thinking of me, although will go for the floaty one as there's an FAA option in there too.

Need to clear some of the stash first, incase SWMBO conducts a stash audit😉

Paintwork looks awesome by the way great work. 

Thanks

Chris

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