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About Markh-75

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  • Birthday 05/13/1963

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    Central Scotland

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  1. Markh-75

    Humbrol Mattcote

    I tend to use it to help protect the decals! Some decals especially if applied to a matt surface will 'silver' around the edges of the decal; its because the matt surface allows air in under the decal; pretty much the same reason that a sucker will not stick to anything other than a smooth shiny surface! To help a decal adhere on matt, i now give the decals area a coat of satin or even gloss cote, this lets the decal adhere securely to the surface, no silvering and you can always coat over with Matt-cote after! With all the Humbrol 'cotes' and especially the matt one, they just need a right good shake before use, you can also leave the bottle upside-down overnight and then shake. If you dont shake it up, you are merely painting on the oil from it, the gunky stuff IS the matt cote.
  2. I'm nearly finished the Academy P-51B/C and wondered if anyone had any issues with Humbrol matt cote on metallic finishes? What is your favourite? Is Valejo any good? What is the BEST make? i know some of you use the airbrush but i like to paint them by hand. I remember a few years back having an issue with Humbrol 11 (silver) that started to show signs of coming off when i painted on the mattcote (found traces of silver paint on the brush) I then started to use the Humbrol Metalcote range which seemed fine. Am i right in thinking then that its better to use an acrylic varnish (FOR kits) when lacquering over a silver finish?
  3. Wow! Cracking job, Sir! Your house complements the pictures; makes it look like an RAF station of the period because of the scale of the model and the closeness! Quite Excellent! Massive Hurricane deserves massive round of applause!
  4. Cracking work there sir! Thank you for sharing it with us, i've saved the US Navy and USAAF pages as that is the only models i'm making. I have a Helldiver coming next week and looking forward to adding it to my collection, this guide is fantastic for the colours i need for it and other US Navy aircraft i have kits for.
  5. Not at all; i have been in a few modelling forums and found many to be lacking in certain areas, i was merely suggesting ideas. I'm gonna let it go now.
  6. OK, what about a reply button for each post? The quotes are a bit boring to read over and over to get to the bottom of the page. A reply button would work well.
  7. Okay Guys, thanks for your replies, much appreciated and clarifying. Unless there is a specific detail, i tend to put one overhead picture, one of the underside, and one from each side; as you say Steve, a whole string of graduating shots of one side of the model is quite off-putting and as i dont work now i dont use my lunch break looking at posts on my phone; if i'm out i will look at each one in email notifications but make a mental note to visit the group later when i get home, so that's another angle i hadn't thought of! Thanks for clarifying that for me! Someone mentioned earlier that perhaps the 'quote' button needs to be removed and that's probably right, just replace it with a 'reply' button; because i only get the chance to reply to the last post in a thread as many others have already replied. A reply button would allow a reply to each post and people can still quote others by highlighting the text in the post they wish to reply to. The code could be altered too, to prevent pictures being posted over and over so that when someone does quote another, they are unable to repeat all the pictures. On the subject of code, it could be altered to include one aspect shots only, so that in the rules about pictures people can post a top shot, an underside shot, a left and a right (unless its a larger model in which case a front and rear of each side could be allowed). Just a thought. Cheers.
  8. Hey there! Pred text can be a pain, i know. The guy who invented it died recently; i saw it in the papers, his funfair will be next monkey!
  9. I gotta admit i do post pics in threads, tbh nobody said "No, dont do it". I send my images to Flikr and copy the url from there in 'medium' which is about 802px wide and 602px high. Its what i used in another forum and it works well in this one too. If anyone has a problem with my posts please tell me. I'd prefer to be in the mix and do something rather than be suddenly faced with a consensus of opinion against me. I have a few pictures in the 'workbench' page and i thought it would be interesting to others about how i did a model; in future i will just post that i am doing such and such a kit and then post a picture of it in 'ready for inspection'. Would that be better? I'm not sure i agree with the idea that its mainly new members who dont know the full netiquette of the group; everyone has to learn somewhere, right? Everyone was once a new member at one time. I have read some of the opening posts of this subject and i have outlined what I myself can do to help, if that isnt enough then maybe i havent quite found the right group yet, maybe i wont bother even looking any further for a group. I just ask if what i suggest is a good solution for me. I dont want to get involved in the politics of a group; i came on here because i am really getting back into modelling again after a lengthy absence (about 25 years) and am quite enjoying what i do, i thought it was enough? I dont crave acceptance, but when someone says they like what they see in a picture, i does help! lol
  10. That was a few years ago so still a good effort my friend! (I never laugh at someone else's efforts, just not done). When you consider that the internet is a fantastic resource now and back then, the decals were pretty basic too. i ALWAYS do research on my next kit online, download pictures etc and i can see them on my phone when i'm downstairs working on the model, so no running about up and downstairs required! There are all kinds of things available now for modellers; i would have known nothing about particular markings unless they were on the box and back in the 70's much of this info was not freely available! You can even buy alternative decals for a kit, you still use the stars and bars etc that came with the kit but you paint the model to the colours and markings and then use the alternative serial numbers and nose arts etc. My P-51B was a Revell kit and i painted it in 4th FG markings and put on decals for 'Nick "Cowboy" Megura. The C model i'm doing just now will be in the colours and markings of Ralph K. Hofer, also of the 4th FG. (look for my post named 'March-75s first 3 finished models). I add all sorts of things like the little navigation lights on the wings, if applicable i add the markings on the propeller blades; for me and MY big ol' clumsy fingers, trying to fit a decal onto a propeller blade no matter how well trimmed down, is just not a viable option so i carefully paint them on in matt so it dries dull, i use a very small brush, and cocktail sticks with very little paint on. If an aircraft has stripes, even as decals, i use masking tape and paint the stripes on instead of faff about with fidgety decals. Thanks for your interest, Trevor!
  11. Yes a tiny bit; i dont trim ANYthing around the cockpit area when i cut from the sprue until i have checked the clear parts first. I cut with side cutters and then carefully use a knife to cut anything that will take too long to sand away; i then rub away any flashings with 800 or 1000 grade, wet and dry paper. i use the matt cote to close up any small gaps between the model and the clear parts, its nice and gunky and can fill gaps nicely, i just paint over it if needed and then a second coat to make it look the same.
  12. Thanks folks! I am rather pleased with this kit, bought it to replace a Condor P-51 kit, when i started it the glue melted the plastic, i painted the landing gear and the paint deformed it; just bad plastic. That kit had the snout guns and cannons and i saw this Novo going for a song so i bought it to replace the Condor kit. I usually 'make' the canopy fit, i dry fit it to see how it looks and adjust by careful trimming on the fuselage and the clear part until it fits nicely, that means when its ready to go on there will be no fuss; and i dont use Liquid Poly for canopies now, i put a small spot of cement at four points and then place it on. Liquid poly can waste the clear parts because it can draw the surrounding paint into it when it cures, making a right mess. IF there is a gap i can do nothing with i will paint it with a paint that is a bit thicker at the gap and then when dry i paint the correct colour. I love doing the clear parts now, and they can really 'make' the look of a kit! I have posted somewhere in the forum about how i do the painting of clear parts. I think its in the 'workbench' area on this group. I am building an Academy P-51B/C just now, and as you say they are cracking kits to build! I wont be long now as its most of the way there so look out for it when i post it!
  13. Thank you; I like the little Novo kits, easy to build and you can put as much detail on them as you want, they're like a blank canvas! The snout guns and cannons are actually pins, i took the heads off them with the Dremel and used a VERY small drill bit to drill where the machine guns were in the wings, and to build the cannons out i just painted them three or four coats of gloopy paint i have, smoothed them down and painted them up!
  14. Markh-75

    Wrinkled decals.

    On a less expensive model the decals can leave alot to be desired, in quality and application. They can tear so easily, or even come apart in the water! (try to build up a back-up of decals to use in such emergencies). Sometimes when one comes off the backing and onto the model it can wrinkle up and appear wasted but if you are careful you can lift it off with a paintbrush or even tweezers and just put it back in the water dish; it WILL spread itself back out! I then use the tweezers to pick up a backing paper from under the water and get the decal onto it. make sure the decalcote has been applied on the area before you try to transfer it again! II also use Decalcote/Decalfix to clean the area before i put any on a model; i paint it on as normal and use a strip of kitchen roll to wipe it back off with; leave it for a minute and paint it back on, works great! Its a good idea to clean the area that decals go on; for example, i suffer with eczema and have to use a few different ointments on my skin, i always wash my hands after using them but there are bound to be very small areas that aren't even visible to the naked eye unless they are highly with a liquid solution! The Decalcote is great for cleaning the area off first! You just dont know what might be on your fingers.
  15. She's now complete and decorated! quite pleased with this one! . . . . The cannons and snout guns worked out well; the decals were rather iffy though! Some of these cheaper kits can have poor quality decals and this was no exception, the yellow bands were decals but i decided to paint them on instead of faffing about with decals there; the 'Betty Jean' decal on the other side was rather problematic, in fact once i had it in place i noticed a small tear but managed to get the problem sorted smartish! The aircraft serial numbers in yellow were an issue because one of them came off the paper and wrinkled up too much to be of any use so i cut the remaining one in half because on the plan page the number is obscured halfway through by the star and bars, cutting this decal in half and using each half accordingly, solved the problem. All in, i persevered with it and got it finished and ready to go into the cabinet! Note the Stars & Bars on the tail! made to look like its wrapped around the leading edge of the rudder! I'm nearly finished building an Academy P-51B/C in 1:72; its been a lovely kit to build, every part clearly marked and set in the sprue nicely; normally the little tang on the top of the P-51 landing gear as part of the u/c door is part of the sprue and ends up being lost because the sprue aren't too clever, but on this kit there was plenty of thought into how things were moulded in the sprues! Really getting the hang of this modelling lark now! When i do a wheel i just paint the whole thing black and then use a tiny amount of silver on a brush, the brush is almost dry, this tends to highlight the wheel rather than make a clogged mass of silver in the centre! Just one of my tricks, i assembled the bombs and rockets for this kit and then put them into my box of spares! As always i will put a picture on this group when she's done!
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