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Merlin

what is best way to attach fishing line from deck up to mast ? ?

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Hi,

using monofilament thread 0.1mm going from a pole on the deck up to mast,

What is the best method ?

drill a hole in pole to accept end of thread seems a good start, then what?

 

zip kick in hole and s/glue on line or ca in hole and zipkick on line, will it even stay there long enough for line into hole ?

 

which s/glue gap filler or runny like water or gel ?

 

Then at mast is it s/glue on mast and touch line to that then with the unfamiliar hand touch zipkick preloaded brush to mast ?

 

and what about using rigging thread, what method then ?..thinks...it absorbs the zipkick or s/glue so a different technique ?

 

maybe presoak tip and zipkick it, then it cant soak up sglue or zipkick.

(zipkick is my s'glue accelerator by the way)

 

Merlin

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Can't help with the use of fishing line on ships as I use Eschi elastic 'fine' and 'standard' lines on my boats. If it was me:

  • Spot of CA on point A and attach Uschi.
  • Spot of CA on point B, stretch Uschi a little and attach.
  • Using a sharp scalpel, cut ends off.

I don't use 'kicker' when using Uschi, the Uschi seems to 'kick' the CA itself. The beauty of Uschi is that it has stretch and is resilient to knocks.

I have used monofillament on a biplane and had to use holes and 'kicker'

 

HTH

 

Stuart

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My personal take is that you may be overthinking it.

I use regular 'grocery store' super glue with monofilament all the time, no 'kicker' to bother with. Pre-drilling the holes is a good idea, of course, but I just position the line end and apply a mini-droplet of CA with a piece of stiff wire. As long as you don't go heavy on the CA, it seems to set nearly instantly. I still give it a minute or so before doing the other end...if that's too annoying, then the 'kicker' might be a help.

Cheers

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Hi,

the kicker and CA was a method told to me by a modeller who appears to have a tame spider.

Thing is as soon as the ca meets kicker bang ca sets so if trying to get end of line into hole unless one is VERY QUICK in the 'docking procedure' it could set on the outer portion of the hole, as opposed to being fully 'in there', CA even seems to set if it smells kicker let alone if it touches wet kicker,  if it sets up without it and doesnt mind slight hand tremble (racing against clock) on line all is well and good.

 

I will drill fine hole in rod/mast/pole in deck but not sure if trying to be clever and also drill hole in mast top for other end is good as that means cutting line to exact length, dont think thats possible. it will have to pass to one side of the mast head under the end cap.

the twangy stuff is ok but can have a twisted ribbon effect as its not circular in section from looking at EZ line. Is Uschi circular ?

 

I fancy grey for steel as opposed to black, so a marker pen run along the line is an idea. I might also roughen up the line end a tad for ca grip.

 

Merlin

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the fishing line should go from the deck to the water. you won't catch anything on a mast.                I'll get my coat.

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If you're drilling holes dont use kicker, it just complicates things. To speed up CA setting more gently, just breathe on it - warmth plus moisture is necessary for the reaction. Your problem is how to get rid of the loose end (which is why I use stretch sprue as its easier to get rid of - just dissolve with liquid glue). But line is tougher. You can try cutting with a fresh blade, but I always get some left over. So you have to measure to length, leave a bit of slack and if your aim is precise enough glue to the bottom of the yard, if not to the front or back. Touch a bit of superglue to the tip and then a dab of kicker to the yard and touch - they should grab at once. Never use old CA for rigging, it doesnt set right and madness ensues.

 

Now you have a loose line, which is worse than none. Use a heat source to tighten up the slack - which will pull your mast out of line. Use a line on the other side to pull it back until its right - which is how the real thing works. The secret is to plan ahead - don't do all the lines on one side, you have to work with matched pairs and the mast must be able to take quite a bit of stress if you have to keep adjusting (another reason why master models use brass or steel masts). Sometimes its better to cut the line off and start over. Practise first and good luck!

 

Edited by TallBlondJohn

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Hi,

Thanks Jamie,

I will look to see what Uschi do, trouble is I have some objects that need trapping between a number of strands and any stretch wont keep them aligned as intended, and using nylon for those and stretchy for others wont see a match in the sizes and appearance. It will have to be nylon for all on one model and uschi for all on another. Glad there is an alternative to twisty look for EZline.

 

TallBlondJohn, trouble with pairs is going from a flimsy stern mast to centre mast, there is no way of pulling sternmast aft, ditto bow mast.

 

Merlin

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25 minutes ago, Merlin said:

Hi,

Thanks Jamie,

I will look to see what Uschi do, trouble is I have some objects that need trapping between a number of strands and any stretch wont keep them aligned as intended, and using nylon for those and stretchy for others wont see a match in the sizes and appearance. It will have to be nylon for all on one model and uschi for all on another. Glad there is an alternative to twisty look for EZline.

 

TallBlondJohn, trouble with pairs is going from a flimsy stern mast to centre mast, there is no way of pulling sternmast aft, ditto bow mast.

 

Merlin


For those lines - techincally wires I guess -  I use fishing line and get the built in curve to provide the sag. Having those lines tight never looks quite right to me

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