Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

thorfinn

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    933
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

thorfinn last won the day on November 11

thorfinn had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,384 Excellent

About thorfinn

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 05/18/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Towson, MD

Recent Profile Visitors

2,400 profile views
  1. Thanks to all. That was my understanding. A discussion on another forum thought it had been ID panels in the form of yellow rectangles or a checkerboard pattern. [IIRC I actually saw the effect on another model online...and quite shamelessly copied it! ]
  2. Thanks, Gents. This one was in plain silver plastic...but now that you mention it, I remember getting some of Lindberg's jet models in the '60s in that radioactive sunshine yellow plastic.
  3. Can't remember where I first saw this c. 1990 commemorative Swedish F10 Wing scheme -- online profile, magazine or Hasegawa kit box art -- but once I saw it, I knew it was the only choice for the old Airfix 1/72 kit lurking in the stash. Decals are home-made except for numbers and roundels from old Flying Colors sheets. Paints are Tamiya acrylic mixes. The red tail color and the 'Ghost' badge are insignia of the wing's No. 1 Squadron.
  4. I really enjoy this...with a healthy dose of empathy for the difficulties you've pressed on through. I've found that '-ish' is the key in nostalgia builds like this. If one really wanted to 'accu-detail,' it would almost always be easier to scratchbuild or find a high-end kit. But there is a certain satisfaction to be had in bashing one of these old sow's ears into something beyond conventional expectation. Adding what I like to call 'representational detail' gives these old pieces a new gloss they deserve.
  5. Thanks, Dennis! Even though I didn't...it would be an easy one to add some scratcbuilt cockpit detail to. Those between-the-wars cockpits were pretty Spartan.
  6. This was a relaxing OOB build between more complicated projects. Lindberg's ancient F11C-2 Goshawk is basic as nails, but a nice straightforward molding. It's fairly clean compared to many of their other contemporary offerings (in terms of mold-release pits and such), with no detail to speak of, but captures the sort of stumpy blowfly look of many of the between-the-wars fighter designs rather nicely. Color scheme is via the single kit decal option, but those decals went down beautifully. Rigged with EZ-Line.
  7. The Ninfinger website -- an amazing resource for all things 'real space' -- has a copy of the Almark Modelworld magazine article from 1972 on updetailing the kit. (I'm sure there are newer commentaries available, but it's still a great place to start.) Here. Be sure to keep hitting 'next page'; it goes beyond the original artcle. Also, take some time to poke around on the site. I'm sure there will be other stuff useful to your project. Cheers
  8. I fancied building the 2005 Sebring 12-Hr. GT-1 category winner -- the early-configuration DBR9 with the cooling louvers over the front tires. The 1/25 scale resin kits were out of my reach price-wise, so I used Airfix's tidy little 1/32 kit for the mod, with a combination of kit and home-made decals. [I actually started this as a WIP some years ago, but the included louver-mod photos got lost in the Photobucket fracas, and the finished result never got posted.]
  9. Apologies---posted in wrong section.
  10. Just a reminder -- if it hasn't already been logged -- that many of the Twin Otter models had props that feathered automatically on shutdown. Check photos of your particular a/c to be sure. Great work so far, love the build! Cheers.
  11. My personal take is that you may be overthinking it. I use regular 'grocery store' super glue with monofilament all the time, no 'kicker' to bother with. Pre-drilling the holes is a good idea, of course, but I just position the line end and apply a mini-droplet of CA with a piece of stiff wire. As long as you don't go heavy on the CA, it seems to set nearly instantly. I still give it a minute or so before doing the other end...if that's too annoying, then the 'kicker' might be a help. Cheers
  12. Actually, I erred there slightly. I found out (after the fact, naturally) that she didn't wear the '743' number until 1993...should have been the post-Soviet style flag. Ah, well.... But I do appreciate the kind words. Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...